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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Toxic Waste Wall
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Sep 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hazardous Waste and Chemical Warfare, thankfully, have been spared from the fire and remain almost entirely intact. Toxic Socks has changed a bit, but has cleaned up pretty well (lower down it may feel like a new climb). Two Stone Wipe and Crockostimpy, unfortunately, are fractured beyond belief. I started up TSW the other day and every hold up to the second bolt pulled out or just shattered; Crocko' is even worse. The upper sections still look okay, but a lot of cleaning will be in or... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Many Happy Returns (5.9+)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: ...and a Yosemite 5.7
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Face Lift (5.7 R)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Aug 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I guess it's just my alpine background (and the fact that I've never placed gear on this route and do consider it a sport climb---run out a bit, but still a sport climb). Yes, Matthew I hear what you're saying, but when the ratio of bolts is so high---and the climb is usually done without placing any pro---then I don't count it as trad. In context, it would be like saying that half the climbs on Toxic were trad because people do place some gear on occasion. (But then again, I consider Snake Dike... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Face Lift (5.7 R)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This isn't a trad route, just to clarify.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Jun 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lost Mythos --- I had taken a group out to climb at the Gorge on June 11th & 12th and it looks like one of my pairs of shoes was left behind. They are newish, purple, size 42.5. I would appreciate getting them back if anyone has come across them. Thanks.
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Lost Horse Area : Lost Horse Wall : Roan Way (5.8+ R)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Apr 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Quite fun, and no, not "R." You can use the right 2 bolts for your belay and throw a draw on the left bolt for your safety piece as you head up. Used almost all nuts on the whole route. Again, fun and long.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Photo
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Apr 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's really cool, Matthew.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Haunted by Waters (5.7)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Mar 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a good route for the beginning lead sport climber (or aspiring soloist).
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Return On Investment (5.9-)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Mar 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A pink tricam and a number 7 stopper (and sling the pipe) pretty much sew this up. Traverse the lichen field and finish at the Waters anchor to milk a few extra feet. Can't really see this being more than one 5.8- move (regardless of height), though.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Upper Gibraltar : Dazed and Confused (5.10b)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Sep 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Staying directly on the bolt line and slightly right here and there (not using the left edge holds) definitely raises the grade several ticks.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Toxic Waste Wall
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Sep 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Having run all these routes again yesterday I agree with Jon that, no, nothing should be retro'd. All the bolts are still in good shape (no spinners, no movement). The runouts are part of the "spice" of the wall, which I quite enjoy; if you're concerned, place a piece in between (a #1 or #.75 is all you'll need for any of the routes). However, I disagree about the top anchors which are just a plain pain in the ass; those should be replaced simply to get rid of all... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : San Ysidro : Photo
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Jul 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm guessing that was one of Sage's less stinky days...
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Upper Gibraltar : The Gibbon (5.10b)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Mar 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, spooky, especially when you can't find that high right and with an extended sling on the bolt below your feet...
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Gibraltar Area : Upper Gibraltar : A Route Runs Through It (5.10c)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Mar 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just move 10 feet over to the Gibbon/Soul bolts and rap from the links with a 60m. Angle slightly right at the bottom and you're good.
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Cathedral Peak : Cave Route (5.5)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Feb 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do you prefer bushwhacking over climbing? Crumbly sandstone flakes and slick water stains? Yucca puncture wounds interrupted by short class 4 moves and one moderately run out and unprotected traverse? This route is for you!
There's one fun (extremely short) section of actual climbing under a big overhanging block and up a crack off the second belay. At this point you get your hopes up for some more moves, but then it's back into some more brush and then a sidewalk.... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Cathedral Peak : South Face (5.7)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Feb 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can fairly easily run the South Face in two pitches with a 60m (see photo)
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Cathedral Peak
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Feb 11, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh Matt, it's not that bad. (I DID say bring a weedwhacker, though).
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Right Side Gully : Free to Choose (5.8+)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Dec 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, cleaning up nicely. Fun and balancey. I'd say 5.8+ because the holds are there, it's just a weight shift issue through that second pitch crux. (Are you sure you can't do this route with a 50m rope? Seems a lot shorter.)
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : Sespe Gorge (Black Wall) : Chips Block (5.6 PG13)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Dec 3, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you're really wanting to test your gear placement and "expeditionary" trad skills this is a good route for it: manky, chossy, lichen-y, awkward, flaring seam-y, and runout-y (up to 20'+)---but still moderately fun. You might get 3 bomber placements on the route (and get to place nuts in diagonal opposition---not once, but twice!)
On a more helpful note, you can run this in a full, single pitch on a 60m, then rap off the smaller (stout) pine at the belay ledge without crossing over to Half As... more >>
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Cathedral Peak
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Aug 25, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Let's hear it for KEVIN STEELE! He, Laura Bylund and I were up there yesterday. Fun route (but bring a weedwhacker....)
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Location: CA : Central Coast : Hwy 33/Ojai : The Fortress : Right Side Gully : Capitalism & Freedom (5.10a)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Feb 23, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm leaning toward a 10b rating.
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