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Member Since: May 15, 2003
Last Visit: 10 hours ago
Contact Jeff Buhl


Point Rank: # 1,771
Total Points: 98
Last Year: 29
Last 30 Days: 1
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Jeff Buhl been climbing?










Jeff Buhl

 
Contributions

Contributions


All (24) | Routes (4) | Areas (2) | Photos (4) | Comments (8) | Posts | Stars (6) | Ratings

Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location  Useful To  Date

Kayla's Way

5.10c/d

Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet

CO : South Platte : ... : Da Butts

Sep 17, 2008

Igor Unleashed

5.11c

Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet

CO : South Platte : ... : Da Butts

Sep 17, 2008

Fat Monkey's Birthday

5.10c

Trad, 2 pitches, 80 feet

CO : South Platte : ... : Gnome Dome

May 25, 2004

Two Jews Blues

5.10a

Sport, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II

CO : South Platte : ... : Little Scraggy Dome

May 16, 2003

Contributed Areas

Name Location  Useful To  Date

Gnome Dome

CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek

May 23, 2004

Little Scraggy Dome

CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek

May 15, 2003

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location  Great Image  Date
Bill Flaherty stems into the pending crux moves.

Bill Flaherty stems into the pending crux moves.

UT : Moab Area : ... : Shoot Up or Shut Up (5.11a)

Mar 4, 2009

A nice moderate route on the same crag...beautiful with beer very close by.

A nice moderate route on the same crag...beautiful with beer very close by.

Jeff Buhl : Climbing Around

Dec 18, 2007

A sand bag 11b in the interlocken area of Switzerland...ended up being around 12b (one problem with interpreting grades)

A sand bag 11b in the interlocken area of Switzerland...ended up being around 12b (one problem with interpreting grades)

Jeff Buhl : Climbing Around

Dec 18, 2007

Bill - completing the crux of the first pitch.

Bill - completing the crux of the first pitch.

CO : South Platte : ... : Fat Monkey's Birthday (5.10c)

May 27, 2004

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob
By: Jeff Buhl When: Apr 12, 2009

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Comments: If you are climbing up Beginners One or Beginners Two expect the down climb to be of about the same difficulty but much more exposed (and w/o a rope). For a rock with so many beginner climbs it could use a rap anchor. Looks like a few have been chopped.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Potash Road : Wall Street : Shoot Up or Shut Up (5.11a)
By: Jeff Buhl When: Mar 4, 2009

view comment >>
Comments: This is a good route with aesthetic moves but as with many routes on this rock it seems some of the edges are wearing away and perhaps the grade is ticking up a bit as a result. The bolts are updated. To supplement the bolts a red alien works between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. A small nut between the 3rd and 4th bolts and a #4 camalot above the last bolt protecting the last crux move would give you some additional piece of mind and gear at your waste as you pull the move.

Have fun!


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Frigid Air Buttress : Frigid Air Buttress (5.9)
By: Jeff Buhl When: Apr 28, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: Interesting Route.

On the "man eater pitch" my partner I became confused (with beta from the next pitch) and climbed out right (from where the bolt is) along a seam to a short hand crack that leads up to the belay ledge. This alternative is very easy way around the thrashing you will receive going directly up the crack - though it will likely diminish the overall "experience". If electing to take this alternative note that cams from .5 to 3" will protect this variation (5.6-5.7 ish) and becar... more >>


Location: CA : The Needles / Kern River : The Needles : Voodoo Dome : White Punks on Dope (5.8+ PG13)
By: Jeff Buhl When: Apr 28, 2008

view comment >>
Comments: I have done this route several times and agree that it is absolutely stellar. From a historical perspective the slab pitch originally did have three 1/4" bolts for protection (it was quite a ways from the third bolt to the top of pitch) but I recall that the last time I climbed it the pitch had been re-bolted with modern bolts and a 4th bolt was added to the climb. I think the fourth bolt makes it a safer and more enjoyable climb.

You can also access some of the other Needles climbs from this... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Sheeprock : Land that Time Forgot : Nazca Line (5.10a/b)
By: Jeff Buhl When: Feb 27, 2008

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Comments: I thought this was a rather fine route. I really enjoyed the headiness of the third pitch in contrast with many of the other pitches on this wall that are very comfortable. The bottom line is that you will not get hurt on this climb in a fall and climbing is both really good and not that runnout (compared to other South Platte slabs). Deserves more than a single star.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: Jeff Buhl When: May 14, 2007

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Comments: It was too difficult to sort through the comments above, so I thought I would quickly recommend the 10c variation over the 10a variation.

The climbing on the 10a side is a bit of a grovel (though well protected).

The climbing on the 10c side has much more aesthetic movement and gear that is just as good. Yellow and green Alien and or nuts can sew this up. Give it a shot!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Peanuts Walls : Upper Peanuts : Gravity's Angel (5.11b)
By: Jeff Buhl When: Jul 26, 2003

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Comments: This is truly a great route - although there are many to choose from it stands out as solid for the grade and aesthics of the movement. There are several distint cruxes that require solid foot, hand, body, and head work...and not too much chalk to show the possiblitiles. Awesome!

I see that these bolts are ~16-17 years old and are looking fairly rusted. Realizing that the are 3/8" and that this may sound silly - Does anyone have any idea if they are still relatively safe? or the expected li... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock
By: Jeff Buhl When: May 21, 2003

view comment >>
Comments: So are Turkey Rocks open now (as of 5-21-03)? I checked the gov't site above but it was " under construction". Any information is appreciated.




Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Two Jews Blues 5.10a

CO : South Platte : ... : Little Scraggy Dome

White Punks on Dope 5.8+ PG13

CA : The Needles / Kern River : ... : Voodoo Dome

Nazca Line 5.10a/b

CO : South Platte : ... : Land that Time Forgot

Fat Monkey's Birthday 5.10c

CO : South Platte : ... : Gnome Dome

Igor Unleashed 5.11c

CO : South Platte : ... : Da Butts

Kayla's Way 5.10c/d

CO : South Platte : ... : Da Butts