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Rock Climbing Photo: Belaying at The Stretcher.  Devil's Lake WI


Member Since: Jan 10, 2012
Last Visit: Nov 23, 2015
Contact Jeff VS

Point Rank: # 8,381
Total Points: 47
Last Year: 13
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jeff VS been climbing?










Contributions


All 25 | Routes 3 | Areas | Photos 1 | Page Improvements | Comments 12 | Posts 5 | Stars 4 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 06 - Balanced Ro... : Balanced Rock Wall : Law and Gospel (5.10d)
By: Jeff VS When: Nov 1, 2015

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Comments: Erol and John can do this climb clean. I can't (yet). The many tiny micro crimps are real finger biters. After the first 10-12', the climb becomes a very nice series of 5.9 dance moves.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 06 - Balanced Ro... : Balanced Rock Wall : AAHRG (5.10a)
By: Jeff VS When: Sep 27, 2015

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Comments: Finally! After more than 40 years of thrashing on this, it all came together today. What a lovely climb (once you can figure out that tricky start)! Thanks to John Markestad for the beta!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 06 - Balanced Ro... : Balanced Rock Wall : AAHRG (5.10a)
By: Jeff VS When: Sep 14, 2015

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Comments: After having this start spank me every time for years, last evening John and I finally worked out the start all the way up the first 15' before we ran out of light. I can hardly wait for next weekend to put it all together! I suspect we do it more like Angie and less like Doug but I've never seen either of them do it.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 06 - Balanced Ro... : Balanced Rock Wall : Beer and Booty (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Jeff VS When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: Thanks Terry! Couldn't imagine it was a FA. It is such a pretty climb, I'd just like more people to enjoy it.

We also have a couple of "nobody knows about" spots that I'll never list on Mountain Project.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 06 - Balanced Ro... : Balanced Rock Wall : Beer and Booty (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Jeff VS When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: This is such an obvious route I can't imagine it hasn't been done many times before. I don't find it listed in any of the guide books though.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 06 - Balanced Ro... : Balanced Rock Wall : 6.63 Smoots (5.8- PG13)
By: Jeff VS When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: Sorry about the (now removed) Grade V. I had a senior moment.

BTW, there is a move on the climb that is a bit of a reach. If you are only one Smoot or less in height, it might be a bit of a challenge.

I'm leaving work early today (shhh! don't tell!) to put two young climbers on this very climb.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 06 - Balanced Ro... : Balanced Rock Wall : Der Glotz (5.9)
By: Jeff VS When: May 28, 2014

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Comments: Have just a little time at the end of the day? "Der Glotz" is your go-to. John Markestad and I often take a 12 pack up to the Balanced Rock Wall after work. "Der Glotz" and "Beer & Booty" are the most interesting routes to play on with lots of variations to keep them interesting. Both climbs become VERY interesting after 4 beers.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 07 - Railroad Tr... : Railroad Amphitheater : Pine Tree Dihedral (5.5)
By: Jeff VS When: May 28, 2014

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Comments: There is a very nice "hero" variation at the crux (we call it the "cheese danse"). When you are tucked under the big crux roof, instead of manteling to the ledge on the right, reach up on the face above the roof until you find the nice finger ledge with your left hand. The real "hero" looking move is to then match both hands on the little ledge and let go with the feet and just hang in mid air. Do a pull-up on the little ledge and use the little bulge on the edge of the over-hang for your rig... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 04 - East Rampar... : Hawk's Nest : Charybdis (5.7)
By: Jeff VS When: May 28, 2014

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Comments: Charybdis was my first DL lead back in 1970 and is still one of my favorite climbs to do. It is a real "classic" and, top roped or lead, shouldn't be missed.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff 06 - Balanced Ro... : Balanced Rock Wall : Mr. Neutron (5.6)
By: Jeff VS When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: The wall between New Box and Mr. Neutron is , indeed, an excellent 5.7-5.8. It is very continuous and an excellent lead (use New Box for pro). Basically don't use the inside or outside corners and stay on the face. Not finding this climb in the guide, we named it "9.73 Smoots" because it is just a bit under 55 feet.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Middle Earth : Fanghorn Hills : Hrum Hroom (5.7)
By: Jeff VS When: Nov 20, 2012

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Comments: This is an absolutely lovely climb but the idea of the crux being a grounder makes this a tough climb for a 5.7 climber. Once climbed, set up as a top rope and climb the excellent 5.9-ish face 10 feet to the left. If someone has the time to bolt this, it would make a great lead.


Location: WI
By: Jeff VS When: Jan 10, 2012

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Comments: Devil's Lake: The top of Sunken Pillar/der Glotz on Balanced Rock Wall is missing! Large rock fall in the last few days. Doesn't change the rating of anything but there is a different look. Perfect climbing day today. 50+ degrees in the middle of January!



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