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 ADVANCED


Member Since: Jan 10, 2012
Last Visit: Sep 19, 2014
Contact Jeff VS


Point Rank: # 8,991
Total Points: 29
Last Year: 27
Last 30 Days: 0
0 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jeff VS been climbing?










Contributions


All 14 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 9 | Posts 1 | Stars 2 | Ratings

Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

6.63 Smoots

5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 (1)

Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 37'

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Balanced Rock Wall

May 28, 2014

Beer and Booty

5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13 (2)

Trad, TR, 1 pitch

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Balanced Rock Wall

May 28, 2014

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Far West End : Balanced Rock Wall : Beer and Booty (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Jeff VS When: May 30, 2014

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Comments: Thanks Terry! Couldn't imagine it was a FA. It is such a pretty climb, I'd just like more people to enjoy it.

We also have a couple of "nobody knows about" spots that I'll never list on Mountain Project.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Far West End : Balanced Rock Wall : Beer and Booty (5.10a/b PG13)
By: Jeff VS When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: This is such an obvious route I can't imagine it hasn't been done many times before. I don't find it listed in any of the guide books though.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Far West End : Balanced Rock Wall : 6.63 Smoots (5.8- PG13)
By: Jeff VS When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: Sorry about the (now removed) Grade V. I had a senior moment.

BTW, there is a move on the climb that is a bit of a reach. If you are only one Smoot or less in height, it might be a bit of a challenge.

I'm leaving work early today (shhh! don't tell!) to put two young climbers on this very climb.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Far West End : Balanced Rock Wall : Der Glotz (5.9)
By: Jeff VS When: May 28, 2014

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Comments: Have just a little time at the end of the day? "Der Glotz" is your go-to. John Markestad and I often take a 12 pack up to the Balanced Rock Wall after work. "Der Glotz" and "Beer & Booty" are the most interesting routes to play on with lots of variations to keep them interesting. Both climbs become VERY interesting after 4 beers.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Railroad Track... : Railroad Amphitheater : Pine Tree Dihedral (5.5)
By: Jeff VS When: May 28, 2014

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Comments: There is a very nice "hero" variation at the crux (we call it the "cheese danse"). When you are tucked under the big crux roof, instead of manteling to the ledge on the right, reach up on the face above the roof until you find the nice finger ledge with your left hand. The real "hero" looking move is to then match both hands on the little ledge and let go with the feet and just hang in mid air. Do a pull-up on the little ledge and use the little bulge on the edge of the over-hang for your rig... more >>


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Hawk's Nest : Charybdis (5.7)
By: Jeff VS When: May 28, 2014

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Comments: Charybdis was my first DL lead back in 1970 and is still one of my favorite climbs to do. It is a real "classic" and, top roped or lead, shouldn't be missed.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - Far West End : Balanced Rock Wall : Mr. Neutron (5.6)
By: Jeff VS When: May 27, 2014

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Comments: The wall between New Box and Mr. Neutron is , indeed, an excellent 5.7-5.8. It is very continuous and an excellent lead (use New Box for pro). Basically don't use the inside or outside corners and stay on the face. Not finding this climb in the guide, we named it "9.73 Smoots" because it is just a bit under 55 feet.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Sylvan Lake : Middle Earth : Fanghorn Hills : Hrum Hroom (5.7)
By: Jeff VS When: Nov 20, 2012

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Comments: This is an absolutely lovely climb but the idea of the crux being a grounder makes this a tough climb for a 5.7 climber. Once climbed, set up as a top rope and climb the excellent 5.9-ish face 10 feet to the left. If someone has the time to bolt this, it would make a great lead.


Location: WI
By: Jeff VS When: Jan 10, 2012

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Comments: Devil's Lake: The top of Sunken Pillar/der Glotz on Balanced Rock Wall is missing! Large rock fall in the last few days. Doesn't change the rating of anything but there is a different look. Perfect climbing day today. 50+ degrees in the middle of January!


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
AMGA Top Rope Cert only game in town?General ClimbingJeff VSSep 4, 2014

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Beer and Booty 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Balanced Rock Wall

6.63 Smoots 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13

WI : Devil's Lake : ... : Balanced Rock Wall