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Eastside


Member Since: Sep 10, 2008
Last Visit: Feb 9, 2014
Contact Jeff Stephens


Point Rank: # 4,398
Total Points: 93
Last Year: 5
Last 30 Days: 0
13 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jeff Stephens been climbing?










Contributions


All 184 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 12 | Page Improvements | Comments 13 | Posts 79 | Stars 64 | Ratings 14

Contributed Comments

 

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Unamed 5.10+ (far left hand... (5.10+)
By: Jeff Stephens When: Apr 25, 2012

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Comments: This striking pitch is not only great fun, but features a cooling ventilation system that begins about 30 or 40 feet up. The sketchy block/flake is definitely not sound, but can be thoughtfully avoided. The climb is a longer-than-you-think walk left from where the approach trail reaches the cliff.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Pretty Boy Floyd (5.7) : Photo
By: Jeff Stephens When: Feb 29, 2012

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Comments: Bolted 5.7 crack. 'Nuff said.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Armatron (5.9)
By: Jeff Stephens When: Oct 13, 2011

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Comments: Climbed this Oct 7 and found it to be a fun way to the top of Juniper Peak. Great views all day of Rainbow Wall. Casual, well-protected face-climbing all the way up. I found the crux to be the last move of the third-class exit above the climb. An exposed step while humping a thorny oak shrub with my rope and slings snagged behind me on tenacious branches had me laughing.

Do not make the mistake of thinking you can just walk off to the north. From the descriptions I had read I was expecting a m... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Necromancer Wall : Hop Route (5.7)
By: Jeff Stephens When: Oct 5, 2011

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Comments: Yeah, kinda burly start, much harder than anything on Fold Out. Good protection though. After that, first pitch is sustained solid 5.7. Ignore the wad of slings and belay on top of the block they hang from. Then do pitch 2, which has a fun 5.6 finger crack and then I ran it out (5.5?) up a yellow knobby face to the top, left of the Fold Out finish. Just under 60 meters to belay from the little tree on the top of the Necromancer. Fun climbing.

Descent: Single 60m rope. From top of the formation... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Necromancer Wall : Hop Route (5.7) : Photo
By: Jeff Stephens When: Oct 5, 2011

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Comments: Good grief people! Quit rapping off that mess. Just go to the top.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Icebox Canyon : Necromancer Wall : Fold Out (5.8)
By: Jeff Stephens When: Oct 5, 2011

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Comments: 2nd pitch is well worth doing. Be sure to protect the initial traverse for the follower, but plenty of jugs everywhere. Nothing on this route felt harder than 5.7. A lot easier than Hop Route on the left side of the wall. 2nd pitch is a full 60 meters to good belay location just below the summit boulder.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : E Crags (DBC Canyon) : ... : Photo
By: Jeff Stephens When: Sep 9, 2011

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Comments: Sweet, I remember that register - in a sandy crevice on top of the formation! Matt Hepp and I were stoked to see that Sir Chris Bonington had graced this remote promontory.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones : Crestone Peak / North Pilla... (5.8 R) : Photo
By: Jeff Stephens When: Jul 18, 2011

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Comments: That's a polemonium, also known as Jacob's Ladder, or sky pilot. Sometimes sticky and skunky, sometimes sweet.


Location: UT : San Rafael Swell : San Rafael Swell - South : Eastern Reef Area.. AKA The... : E Crags (DBC Canyon) : Death by Chocolate (5.8)
By: Jeff Stephens When: Nov 19, 2008

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Comments: Climbed on November 10. Fantastic, weird climb. Feels kind of hairball for the leader at times, but is just a hike, sometimes literally, for the follower. We simulclimbed the route in 4 blocks, in about two hours. Seems like the sensible way. Rappelling takes as long as climbing this one, as the ropes don't toss very far on the slab. We didn't find any anchors on top of the formation (but did find Paul's little summit register), so we downclimbed top pitch. How did we miss them??? Beautiful area... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Comic Relief (5.10)
By: Jeff Stephens When: Sep 27, 2008

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Comments: Great rock, great protection, great views, great comraderie.... Pulling into the 5.9+ dark dihedral on Pitch 6 (middle of pitch 5 for us) was the crux for me. It is steep, awkward, and generally swarthy. The leader faces a bad ledge fall here, but on toprope I harmlessly and repeatedly bounced off the ledge as I morphed into a dog while trying to climb this corner. I kept falling even though I was yarding on a jammed hex. The climbing is sustained, with 5 distinct sections of great jamming.

Als... more >>


Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Comic Relief (5.10) : Photo
By: Jeff Stephens When: Sep 27, 2008

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Comments: Making the move to this stance was the crux of the climb for me. I found pulling into the dihedral from the large sloping ledge at its base to be seriously awkward. You have to face the right wall to use the crack in the corner, which is slightly past vertical with nothing for feet. The black left wall is pretty smooth. I kept falling back onto the ledge as I struggled with this move. On toprope. Like the caption says, this dihedral is good and hard.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Weller Slab : Zanzibar Dihedral (5.8)
By: Jeff Stephens When: Sep 10, 2008

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Comments: Rapping the route, and then down Two Ears, will minimize erosion on that crappy descent path. I think it's preferable, unless of course there are parties on the routes. I saw a small but hardy squirrel run down the crux headfirst.

This dihedral is the best continuous feature, and features more hand jams, than any other on Independence Pass.


Location: CO : Independence Pass : Weller Slab : Two Ears (5.7)
By: Jeff Stephens When: Sep 10, 2008

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Comments: Anyone know what happens if you head directly up from Two Ears? That would be the face to the left and around the arete from Zanzibar Dihedral. The arete itself looks climbable as well.