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Member Since: Jan 27, 2007
Last Visit: Feb 17, 2015
Contact Jeff Scheuerell


Point Rank: # 563
Total Points: 1,129
Last Year: 226
Last 30 Days: 62
5 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jeff Scheuerell been climbing?










Contributions


All 1939 | Routes 62 | Areas 1 | Photos 58 | Page Improvements | Comments 204 | Posts 39 | Stars 1317 | Ratings 258
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Whitney/Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Alabama Dome : Blockade Runner (5.10c)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Feb 14, 2015

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Comments: I felt this one was harder than Dihedral Dance


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : The Astro Domes : South Astro Dome : ... : Solid Gold (5.10a)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Feb 14, 2015

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Comments: Wow the comments on this route make for a great read. Hard not hard(5.8-5.11), you can do it in tennies. First pitch is harder, no second pitch is harder, no first pitch. Covered in poop, no poop, poop(well at least this one makes sense). Holds have broken no holds have broken, only broken on second pitch. And the best is, it's runout no it's a sport climb, no it's runout.

From Randy

"And as for being run out, get a life! The first pitch is practically a sport route."

Then 2 years later

"R... more >>


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Surprise Rock : Trembling Toes (5.9)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Feb 10, 2015

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Comments: 10a in Vogel Classic. In the purple guide 5.9 and noted as being over bolted and aid was probably used, funny. Wings of Steel.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Hot Pink Socks (5.9)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Feb 8, 2015

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Comments: It was fun but I thought it was soft for 5.9. Good warm up.


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Chimney Rocks : Chimney Spire : Wall of Early Morning Frigh... (5.9)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Feb 8, 2015

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Comments: I did this route a few times. I remember a fixed bong at the start of the wide. I also did a cool variation to the first pitch that had a nice surprise.


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Little Baldy : Middle Size White Boys (5.10c)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Feb 8, 2015

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Comments: I remember this as one of the best pitches on Little Baldy. I also remember bad bolts, one being bent. I used my cleaning tool to bend it back just enough to get a thin helium binner on it. I also remember a shitty anchor. I last climbed this route in 98 so unless these bolts have been replaced I would consider it dangerous, especially the anchor. This climb is VERY WORTHY of bolt replacement.

As far as the climbing I remember the crux being two mantels in a row on 1" edges.


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Little Baldy : Tapestry (5.8)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Feb 8, 2015

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Comments: My notes show 2 of 5 stars. I also wrote stoppers, tricams, tcus, small friends

Bit by Bit links with this route as Tapestry was done first. Also climbing this route year round would not be typical. I lived in Lodgepole for 5 winters and never climbed on Little Baldy in the winter and never saw or heard of anyone doing this. I am not saying It wasn't just saying it isn't typical.


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Little Baldy : Hair Raising (5.9)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Feb 8, 2015

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Comments: I wrote 2 of 5 stars in my notes. Also wrote "first pitch is ugly and dirty with many loose blocks. After stepping on a stack of blocks they started to slide but was able to push them off. Now the pitch is harder." That was a long time ago and I vaguely remember this.


Location: CA : Sequoia & Kings Canyon NP : Little Baldy : Bit By Bit (5.7+)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Feb 5, 2015

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Comments: This route is named because of me! My first handrilling experience. I drilled the 2nd bolt on this route and as you can guess I broke a bit. It's been so long I can't remember the details. I think I finished the hole and placed the bolt. Don't remember if it was 1/4" or 3/8". We started this route after work and didn't get to far. I think Tim and Dale finished it on a day I had to work. Tim and Dale were both great guys and climbing partners. I have great memories, although foggy, climbing with ... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : Rattlesnake Errands (5.10b)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Feb 1, 2015

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Comments: I was pleasantly surprised with the 2nd pitch, enjoyed it very much. But I disagree... ok, good, great and classic should mean the same anywhere you go. I keep seeing all these routes on this site that are being posted as classic, more than half the time they are some 30' choss pile that probably should not have been bolted. As far as Same as it Never was, I tried to onsight it last year and couldn't do it. I can't rate something I haven't done but my impression was it is harder than 11c. I did ... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : Rattlesnake Errands (5.10b)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Feb 1, 2015

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Comments: Good is 2 stars, 3 is great. Hard to believe I can lead 10b in my Five-tennies.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Clip Jr. (5.6)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Jan 31, 2015

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Comments: I personally would not put a first time leader on this route.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Wall Flower (5.9 PG13)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Jan 31, 2015

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Comments: Not third class. I'm sure the gal that fell in that section due to a hold breaking is very glad she had a rope.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : Nutcracker (5.8) : Photo
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Jan 30, 2015

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Comments: Not the Nutcracker, looks like Dynamic Doubles. Great route!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : Nutcracker (5.8)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Jan 30, 2015

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Comments: You must have forgotten the first pitch and the third pitch, classics. Also the rock on the last pitch is amazing.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Suzie's Wild Ride (5.8+)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Jan 29, 2015

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Comments: Is her name Suzi? I hope she is ok. That route looks really cool. Did someone chop a bolt.


Location: CA : San Diego County : Mission Gorge : Main Wall : Suzie's Wild Ride (5.8+) : Photo
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Jan 29, 2015

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Comments: Ya, I had the same question. If not...Darwin comes to mind.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : Rattlesnake Errands (5.10b)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Jan 23, 2015

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Comments: P1 direct 5.9 2 stars
P2, 3 stars but overlooking all the loose flakes, the climbing is very cool and continuous. The crux is making one of the clips on the upper slab. Needs traffic.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Phoenix (5.7)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Jan 20, 2015

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Comments: Thanks Eric


Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Dante's Wall : Divine Comedy (5.10a) : Photo
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Jan 16, 2015

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Comments: What can go wrong? Who taught this guy to belay? Classic!


Location: Christina Freschl : Offwidths so far... : Photo
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Dec 11, 2014

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Comments: In my top ten all time favorite pitches


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Sub Gorge : ... : Three Stooges (5.10b)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Nov 15, 2014

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Comments: Gotta wonder about those pins???


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Inner Gorge : ... : Hey Bubba, Watch This! (5.10c)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Nov 11, 2014

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Comments: The obvious block that you grab and wonder if it is good that might kill your belayer can be eaisily avoided by using a good hold out right and going up direct at 10c. By the amount of chalk on this large questionable rock most are not to concerned about their belayers.

Greg, I am surprised you did not yard that thing off?


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Inner Gorge : ... : unknown face (5.9)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Nov 11, 2014

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Comments: A little more cleaning of potential death blocks at the start of this climb would make it better.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Inner Gorge : ... : unknown corner (5.9)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Nov 11, 2014

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Comments: Probably only 5.8 but due to the potential of pulling something off I recommend climbing this cautiously.


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