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Member Since: Jan 27, 2007
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Jeff Scheuerell

Point Rank: # 461
Total Points: 1,576
Last Year: 360
Last 30 Days: 18
2 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jeff Scheuerell been climbing?










Contributions


All 2419 | Routes 77 | Areas 3 | Photos 89 | Page Improvements | Comments 316 | Posts 52 | Stars 1582 | Ratings 300
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : 4:20 Wall
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Sep 10, 2016

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Comments: You probably already saw this butters

mountainproject.com/v/elixir-w...


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Elixir Wall : Alchemy (5.10b)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Sep 10, 2016

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Comments: Fun route! Thanks for putting it up! The nature of this route made me want to sew it up, and I did. That being said, I carried way too much tiny gear. The smallest cam I placed was a .3 BD and the smallest stopper was a BD 7. I don't consider those tiny. Doubles of .3 up to .5 and a set of stoppers with extra med size is about what I used. I also placed a pink and red Tricam and would have placed a brown Tricam and one hand size piece had I carried them.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Elixir Wall : Mama's Magic Milk (5.11a)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Sep 10, 2016

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Comments: Ya, short people need to be able to clip the bolts too. but I really wished that first one was a bit higher. Most of my short climbing partners have a clip stick and carry a stiff draw any how.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Elixir Wall : Witch's Brew (5.11b)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Sep 9, 2016

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Comments: Best route on the wall. Belay from the ledge and bring a shoulder length or 2 or you will feel the drag.

I placed a #8 stopper off the ledge at the bottom, then you get bolts. Higher I placed a couple of med size stoppers and a #.75 and #1 Camalot.

A couple of the clips are tenuous so be mindful of rope drag.

As far as the route being a squeeze job, I don't think it is. You veer left to a crack so how is that a squeeze? I was never tempted to move back r... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Rock Creek : Elixir Wall : Mother's Milk (5.11a)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Sep 9, 2016

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Comments: WE did the right variation, redoing the start to do the left didn't seem worth it. The start is kinda soso.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lee Vining Canyon / Tioga R... : Tioga Cliff Area (aka Priva... : The Gold Wall : Dancing With the Wind (5.10a)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Sep 9, 2016

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Comments: No idea what route or where this is. A better description and location would help.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Dakota Street Bypass (5.12a)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Sep 8, 2016

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Comments: Nice job Rick! Still have not been on this.


Location: butters : Climbing : Photo
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Sep 3, 2016

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Comments: Nice looking crack. Where? Info?


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : June Lake Area : Rush : 4-Capucin : Photo
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Aug 22, 2016

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Comments: D here looked like the most interesting line in the whole area. 7 bolts I think was what I counted. Maybe 10+/11-???


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : June Lake Area : Rush : 3-Trident : Photo
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Aug 22, 2016

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Comments: I think k had 11 bolts. Start looked hard, lots of tic marks 5.11???


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : June Lake Area : Rush : 7-Midi : Methuselah (5.11c)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Aug 22, 2016

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Comments: I guess it's one of those areas where you have to actually climb the routes cause just walking up to them to check them out does not inspire one to come back and I am desperate for more climbing near my house. I did see 2 out of ten or so bolted routes that may deserve a star or two, otherwise a bunch of dirty, loose and short blocky looking cracks. Wasn't sure where the 4 star crack was but it did not jump out at me like you would think a 4 star climb wou... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lee Vining Canyon / Tioga R... : Tioga Cliff Area (aka Priva... : The Gold Wall : Less Filling (5.12a)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Aug 20, 2016

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Comments: There are no fixed nuts on the first pitch and one of the fixed nuts on the 2nd is impossible to clip. I was happy to have a red C3 for up high. Awesome route Dan!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : June Lake Area : Rush : 5-Rebuffat : Photo
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Aug 9, 2016

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Comments: Wow, from the picture it's hard to believe these climbs would even get a star let alone 3. You never can tell I guess until you get on it.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Mammoth Lakes Area : Dike Wall : North Face : Black Leather (5.11a)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Aug 7, 2016

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Comments: I had more trouble on this route than I did on Going Both Ways and Lesbi Friends.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Power Of Union (5.11c)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Aug 7, 2016

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Comments: Ya, that thing sucks! Also belayers beware!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Stigmata (5.10d)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Aug 6, 2016

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Comments: Both the description here and the topo in the Bishop guide seem off to me. As Kelly states above, the route was always started direct. If you traverse in are you doing the route? The placement of the first bolt would lead me to believe not. I did find getting past the first bolt quite hard. Randy says 11c but I felt it was even harder, especially compared to all the 11s on the Mustache Wall and even the route Burning Inside to the left. It took me three falls on lead to get it. Then the rest of... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Old and the Bold (5.10c)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Jul 2, 2016

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Comments: Kinda scary when you tap on a hand hold and feel the virations on your foot. If this is cleaning up, can't imagine the fa..


Location: CA : Southern Sierra : Shuteye Ridge : Dreamscape : Vision Quest : No Rest For the Wicked (5.11d)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Jun 26, 2016

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Comments: 11 bolts in 30'? Did you mean meters?


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : East and Northeast Buttress... : Surfer Girl (5.12c) : Photo
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Jun 21, 2016

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Comments: Not much going on?


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : ... : Diamond in the Tuff (5.11a)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: May 21, 2016

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Comments: Nice to have more over there to do.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Canyon / Pratt's ... : ... : Free Beaks (5.12b)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: May 20, 2016

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Comments: Not trying to offend anyone. The few people that I know of that have sent this route are umpteen times stronger than me. Maybe that is the problem, you don't need to figure it out, you just crank harder. I worked on this route for an hour or so on tr and could not figure it out...ok 5.12? Then I watched Austin walk it like it was 5.10. I thought maybe a height thing? Then I got back on it and followed Austins beta and bam I could do it. I do not feel that I am climbing 5.12 right now on a good ... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : ... : Mad Cat (5.10c)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: May 8, 2016

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Comments: Did this again, love it. Other then the start has great holds throughout. Many might not like the lower angle finish but the holds are great and adds to the route in my opinion.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : ... : Bob and Eric Crack (5.10a PG13)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: May 8, 2016

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Comments: This has seen a bit of traffic, found a fair amount of chalk, and is cleaning up a bit. Lead it again and it is so good.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Thanks for the Mammaries (5.11a/b)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Apr 26, 2016

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Comments: Yes what were they thinking??? Maybe that when they first put a tr on it they really enjoyed the climbing. Maybe if it were bolted they would climb it again and again. That other than the thin start, there are great holds the rest of the way to the top. That if one saw choss out left they would not go out left. Sure it could be cleaned up for those that want to color outside the lines but if you stay between the lines it climbs quite well. That being said I will make an effort to clean more of t... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Static Cling (5.11a)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Apr 26, 2016

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Comments: Great route. Have led this several times and always find the crux to be making a clip after climbing above the roof.


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