Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Echo Rock Area : Snickers : Snickers - North Face : Knightshift (5.10+ PG13)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Apr 12, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not sure about that Russ, Crime of the Century felt easier and had better protection.
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Soft in the Middle (5.8)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Apr 11, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is no longer R rated. Josh and I added 2 more bolts to my route. We were going to add a third but the rain came in again. So there is still a bit of a run out but the climbing is easy there. Just make sure to place good gear under the mini roof before the last moves to the anchor. I placed 2 cams a blue tcu and the red C3. The yellow C3 would be nice there but it was also very nice to have lower down.
A double set of cams should be enough for the first 2 pitches. You may also want a ... more >>
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Wonderland of Rocks : Disneyland Dome : Enchanted Stairway (5.9 R)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Apr 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Vogel guide says one bolt but does not show the route going into the crack. It shows the route going left before it reaches the crack heading to where the runout lower bolt is. It calls the crack Tragic Kingdom 5.8A1 a totally seperate line. I agree with Les, going to the lower bolt is contrived and takes away from the quality of the line. I highly recommend this route but I would start up the natural line of the crack. 4 out of 5 stars for the natural line.
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Hayley Anna (5.8)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Mar 19, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed Hayley Anna a few days ago with Mucci. He loved it. He argued it was way better than Bishops Terrace.
I had not been on this route in several years. A new bolted anchor has been added. Not sure who added it. The new anchor is off to climbers right before you get to the top of the ledge. If you rap off climbers right you can keep your ropes out of the poison oak. You can not make it from here with a 70 M rope to the first pitch anchors on Soft in the Middle. To continue up Soft in the Middle move ... more >>
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Hayley Anna (5.8)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Mar 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Although a bit of a walk to the far left side of Parkline, Hayley Anna is worth it. Also adding the additional 2 pitches above, Soft in the Middle 5.8, makes it even better. The first pitch of Soft in the middle is often wet but the giant holds and abundant pro make it very doable in any conditions. The third pitch as of yet is still runout but I will be adding a couple of bolts soon. Rap soft in the Middle with 2 ropes. The second rap has great exposure dropping over the giant roof. The third statio... more >>
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Reed's Pinnacle Area : Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Rout... (5.10a)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Jan 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hexes are nice on p2
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Reed's Pinnacle Area : Reed's Pinnacle-Direct Rout... (5.10a)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Jan 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: An older 3.5 C4 or new #4 C4 is the biggest peice you need on the third pitch. Just above the 3.4 or 4 there is a chockstone you can sling with a doubble length runner if you need to.
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Free For All (5.9)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Jan 22, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Alexey,
I think you are refering to Fly By 11a in Reid guide but I think it's harder and the route to the right of it is the Hawaiian 10a in the guide but also harder. The Hawaiian has two starts. The right is harder. You can belay at a ledge or link the second pitch. The routes are not new but we did replace the 1/4 bolts with donations from ASCA.
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Knob Job (5.10b)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Jan 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Link w/2nd pitch of Nurdle for an excellent long pitch
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Pat and Jack Pinnacle : Knob Job (5.10b)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Jan 20, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: You may want to bring a third #2 Camalot or #3 friend
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Jan 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Please be very carefull on the approach to not knock rocks into the road. It is very loose so be extra careful and watch your feet. Also start up on the left side now.
Jeff
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Center Route (5.9)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Jan 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes Alexey, it is a variation to the center route. First pitch follows 7 bolts to a corner. Place a stopper, clip a pin then head to a new (repaced the old anchor on the Center Route) 2 bolt anchor with chains. Also an optional micro cam before the anchor. There is also a variation on the second pitch that follows the arching micro corner passing 2 bolts plus a few micro nuts and small cams, then links back into the Center route.
Jeff
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Stonequest (5.8+ R)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Dec 16, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Josh and I replaced the anchor to the first pitch of the Center Route which was done in 1970 by Price, Yates and Anderson. The anchor had been removed a few years ago by a member of the FA of Stonequest which was put up many years later.
The first 100' of Stonquest is actually the start to the Center Route. At the end of the crack move right about 10' to the anchor. This first pitch is only about 5.6/7, protects well and a nice alternative for those not up to the upper pithes of the Center Rout... more >>
|
Location: CA : Tahoe Vicinity : South Lake Tahoe : Phantom Spires : Lizard Head : Phantom 5 Star (5.11b)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Jul 8, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Info?
|
Location: UT : Cedar City : Cedar Canyon : Rappel wall area : Bone Garden (5.11c)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: May 17, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: How about a photo
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : The Unchaste (5.10b)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Apr 21, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The last pitch is easy, 5.6 up obvious cracks. Most folks skip the last, so little traffic means the plants grow back in the crack. When the cracks end a little face climbing leads to a big ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. Not sure how it was missed. Using the anchors on this route is the most comfortable way of getting off Stone Quest as well.
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Farm Alarm (5.8+ R)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Apr 2, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of 4/01/2010, this climb has new 3/8 stainless Fixe double ring anchor
|
Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : ... : Photo
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Mar 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I want to climb that!
|
Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Queen Creek Canyon : Lower Devil's Canyon : Lower Devil's East (LDE) : ... : Photo
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Mar 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great shot, what good timing. Route looks stellar!
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Fly By (5.11)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Mar 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: All bolts have now been replaced. All stainless steel 3/8ths"
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Tweet This (5.11-)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Mar 27, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is awesome. If you think Parkline is just slab climbing get on this.
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : The Hawaiian (5.9)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Mar 27, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: New 3/8ths" bolt and anchor with rap rings.
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Color Me Gone (P1) (5.8)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Mar 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: New 3/8ths" Anchor with chains as of 3/16/2010
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Stonequest (5.8+ R)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Feb 26, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is what it is.
And what it is, is a sweet climb.
|
Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : Cyclops Rock : New Year's Day (5.10c)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Dec 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did it in one pitch. The first half kinda sucked. A bit spooky getting to and then past the first pin considering the rock quality and questionable pro. The first bolt does protect a hard move but after that it's pointless. The second half was very good and well protected. It would feel better if that second bolt were 3/8ths.
Next time I would link Gray Cell to New Years.
|
RSS Feed
