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Member Since: Jan 27, 2007
Last Visit: 7 hours ago
Contact Jeff Scheuerell


Point Rank: # 634
Total Points: 920
Last Year: 190
Last 30 Days: 4
4 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Jeff Scheuerell been climbing?










Contributions


All (1576) | Routes (50) | Areas | Photos (58) | Comments (130) | Posts (21) | Stars (1084) | Ratings (233)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : John Fischer Memorial Route (5.10c)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Sep 25, 2013

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Comments: Fun route, nice to gain the elevation and get the view, 3 out of 5 stars. For me the crux was the roof move. We used gear from a black Alien to a #3 C4. I used 2 back Aliens on the third pitch and my partner used 2 .75C4s on one pitch, only doubles we needed.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Sheelite Canyon / Pratt's C... : ... : Power Of Union (5.11c)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Aug 25, 2013

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Comments: A bit chossier than most routes on the wall, may clean with time. I hope nothing large breaks off and takes out a belayer. Although the climbing is good on a few of the newer routes the rock quality is questionable on some of these. Also felt harder than any of the other 11bs on the wall.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Low Profile Dome : Golfer's Route (5.7)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: Not a bad route??? Is there a better 5.7 in TM?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Low Profile Dome : Memo From Lloyd (5.10+) : Photo
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: Great shot!


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Low Profile Dome : Shit Hooks (5.10b)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: There are places for protection high on the 2nd pitch to take the bite out of some of the runouts


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : The Gash : Trouser Snake (5.11-)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Jul 26, 2013

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Comments: It will be a sad day when someone dumb enough to climb that thing dies but even sadder to see such a cool formation destroyed.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Low Profile Dome : Orange Man (5.10c)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Jun 15, 2013

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Comments: I found Orange Man easier or at least no harder than Darth Vader's or Shit Hooks. Out of the three Darth Vader's was the hardest.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : The Big Deal (5.9)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: May 2, 2013

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Comments: Rick, glad to see you and Austin are still getting after it over there. The route looks good. I need a tour when the pass opens.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Technicolor Wall : Technicolor (5.11+)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Apr 24, 2013

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Comments: What's the anchor sitch, been replaced yet or should I bring my drill.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Technicolor Wall : Unnamed 5.10- (5.10-)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Apr 24, 2013

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Comments: Is this the Crowning???

Also the unnamed 5.9?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Bombay Bitch (5.10b)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Apr 16, 2013

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Comments: I forgot to mention that you could easily link Slinging the Blues with the Bitch. Would be very cool. The problem is all the gear. It is nice to have at least 2 3s and a 3.5 for Slinging the Blues. You could skip the 3.5 but then you would want another 3. You also need a couple of 3s for the Bitch and a 3.5 fits perfect at the start. Not a big deal until you add that to the 2 5s and 6s. Nothing smaller than the 3 2s in the Bitch.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Bombay Bitch (5.10b)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Apr 16, 2013

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Comments: Alexey, it is easy to find and you would love all three pitches. Also you would love Eye of the Liger. Do Tweet This on the Cockshead on the way over. To get there hike like your going to Hayley Anna. A bit before you get to Hayley Anna you walk through a cool shady treed area, about midway through look for a few flat rocks stacked below the climb in the trees. I think this route is your cup of tea but it is unpleaseant and hard when even a little wet.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Sunnyside Bench : Raisin (5.9 R)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Apr 14, 2013

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Comments: IMO the best face pitch for the grade in the Valley.

In 12+ years living in yosemite I have never seen anyone on it. What does that say for the popularity of R rated climbs. Kinda too bad. Great fun climbing with cool features. Also FYI, the pitch isn't over til it's over.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : The Elevator Shaft (5.8 R)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Apr 7, 2013

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Comments: Just did this route again yesterday, it is great. 5 star route although rock quality causes it to loose a couple of stars and does make it R for the climber, belayer and anyone else below.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Flying In The Mountains (5.11a)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Apr 7, 2013

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Comments: Oops, left facing for sure. Imagine making an error in your writing? Just fixed it.

I enjoyed the "nasaty groove" and I really like the second pitch.

The "bolted" arete(Rough around the Edges)with one bolt and the direct are IMO better starts than the left facing corner which is often wet.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : After Six (5.6)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Mar 31, 2013

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Comments: I just looked in my old green Roper guide(1971) and it shows After Six as 5.7 so 5.7 isn't a retro grade after all.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : Jump for Joy (5.9 R)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Mar 31, 2013

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Comments: Very cool route on bomber though very slick rock. A bit sporty to the first protection. I find the bolt on the route poorly located and also unnecessary as there is a solid piece about 6' to the left. A bit dicey(ankle breaker) above the bolt moving left to a good jug and good protection.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Crossover (5.9)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Mar 28, 2013

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Comments: There is/was a pin for protection before the mentioned hard to reach stopper. Also if you start the pitch a bit further right and approach it more directly there are more protection opportunities.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Eye of the Beholder (5.9) : Photo
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Mar 28, 2013

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Comments: I like this shot, you get a good sense of how big that wall is.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Reed's Pinnacle Area : Dr. Fun Time (5.10d)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Mar 26, 2013

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Comments: Hey Alexey, nice job on that pitch! Did you onsight? I don't think that pitch will ever be a white streak.... I don't think it will be around long enough. But yes, there is good hard climbing in all that choss.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Fine Jade (5.11a)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Mar 20, 2013

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Comments: Great route!

This is what I wish I had brought
(1)0C3,(2)1C3,(2)2C3,(3).4,(2).5,(3).75,(2)1,(2)2,
(1)70m rope

I did not place a single 3 or 4. Most descriptions lead one to believe that you will be fist jamming and doing OW moves. I did neither. I remember tight hands to perfect hands, reach past the wide, back to tight hands.

Great .4 finger locks through the crux but the feet suck.

I did the bolted finish. I found it thought provoking but very doable, but not easy.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Free For All (5.9)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Jan 10, 2013

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Comments: A bolt is now in place instead of the pin...happy climbing.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Arch Rock : Leanie Meanie (5.11b)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Dec 12, 2012

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Comments: I wouldn't bring a 3.5 and a 4, just the 4 is fine. I have also done it with a 5 which is better but a 4 works. And no you can not walk a #3 in the OW. But you can after the OW in the big hands to fist section.


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : P-Line Express (5.10+)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Nov 21, 2012

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Comments: Kevin, I got the rope stuck in the corner on the FA. So bad that I was unable to move up and Josh, belaying, could not pull it down. Had to build an anchor mid pitch and rap to fix it. Now I put extra gear in the crack to fill the slot at the lip of the roof(extra in the small finger sizes), seems to work. Have contemplated a bolt.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 4 - Windy Point West : ... : Victimless Climb (5.10)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Nov 19, 2012

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Comments: Can you sgueeze the lemon any harder???


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