Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Jan 27, 2007
Last Visit: 1 day ago
Contact Jeff Scheuerell


Point Rank: # 635
Total Points: 920
Last Year: 190
Last 30 Days: 4
4 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



Where has Jeff Scheuerell been climbing?










Contributions


All (1576) | Routes (50) | Areas | Photos (58) | Comments (130) | Posts (21) | Stars (1084) | Ratings (233)
Page 6 of 64.  <<First   <Prev   4  5  6  7  8   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Inner Gorge : ... : Thieves in the Temple (5.12a)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Feb 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: kinda sporty to the first bolt, I see a lot of folks using a stick clip here.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Inner Gorge : ... : Ya Shoulda' Killed Me Last ... (5.11c)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Feb 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Fun route, 3 out of 5 stars.

Marty's guide shows he crux 11c getting past the roof. For me the hardest move was getting to and clipping the second bolt. Missing the clip here will likely land you on the ledge below. After the second bolt those with good crack climbing skills will find the middle section of this route easier and less strenuous.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Inner Gorge : ... : Living Dead (5.11c)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Feb 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Agree, awesome climb...fun, challenging and well bolted. 4 out of 5 stars. As for hands down the best???


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : Alien Wall
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Jan 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Book calls it the L.Alien Wall. Not sure what the L. is for. This wall has some fun routes but unfortunately most seem a bit sporty.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Inner Gorge : ... : Escapade (5.11a)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Jan 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Except for the to me stupid runout to the first bolt(why on a top down route???) this route is great. Some of the best rock in the Gorge. Continuous climbing that keeps your attention all the way to the end. And yes, you do feel all alone up there.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Inner Gorge : ... : Cobbler's Delight (5.10a)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Jan 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: So are you saying it's just a one star route, maybe not worth hauling a bunch of gear for?


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Pocket Dance (5.10c)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Jan 11, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Maybe only 5.8. The climb is only 10c but I've seen Croft clip every bolt.

Regardless, my vote for best 5.10 in the Gorge unless you count Blood, Sugar, Sex, Magic but that one always feels 11- to me.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Love Stinks (5.11a)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Jan 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: My favorite Gorge pitch! The runouts in the middle keep my attention every time.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Lower Gorge : ... : D.W.P. (5.11c)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Jan 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: And harder than others. Venom, Wrath of Khan, Living Dead, Tsunami, From Chocolate to Morphine, Flex Your Head all come to mind.

Very sustained until the 4th bolt. A bit heady to the 4th considering your not that far off the ground. But much easier after that. And what a finish!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Inner Gorge : ... : Members Only (5.10d)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Jan 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Fun route but a bit sporty clipping the 2nd bolt.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Numb & Number (5.10a PG13)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Dec 28, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Interesting climb. Mostly very positive holds and all seemed fairly solid or at least easy enough to avoid looser looking stuff. The crux for me was very close to the top making one of the last clips, only non incut hold on the route. Kinda creepy with the wall behind you. Also a bit heady for the second getting to the anchor after unclipping the last draw. And it's a very nice anchor at that. Thanks Kelly and Derek!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Go For The Gold (5.10c)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Dec 17, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: A very cool pitch!


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : The Mustang : Photo
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Dec 9, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: thanks!


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Dec 7, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: What is up with the trail wars at the start of the Central Gorge approach? Why do we need 2 starts. For as long as I have been climbing in the Gorge there has been one trail with an occasional person going off and starting another. Several methods have been used to try to keep people on the normal start and for the most part have been successful. But now someone is intent on going there own way regardless. I watched a couple of awesome folks spending a fair amount of time blocking out the un... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Wedge-O (5.10b)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Dec 7, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Not PG 13 if you don't fall. Might be worse if you do in the wrong place. I would not want to fall on 2 of the bolts in the pillar especially making the move right of it into the chossy section. Also the crux is making a move back left, you blow that clip and you just might land right on top of the pillar.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Drainpipe (5.10)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Dec 3, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for the work and thanks to ASCA.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Over the Top (5.11b)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Nov 30, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I think he meant left of Fender Strat but the right hand variation at the top. The lower portion of the route felt about as hard as Fender Strat, maybe due to suspect rock. The upper section is great and bolted perfectly, nice job.

3 stars for the upper half.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Pumpkin (5.11c)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Nov 28, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: With the new start I would give it 11b for the climbing but a difficult clip up high makes it harder so maybe 11c.

The climbing is 3 stars but the crux for me was clipping a bolt up high. So overall I would give the route 2 stars as is. There was a chalk dot placed already where the bolt should be so maybe fixing it is in the works? Or somebody else had the same frustration clipping as me?


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Central Gorge : ... : Pocket Dance (5.10c)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Nov 17, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I skip the bolt off to the left unless my second plans on leading the route as well and I leave the draws hung. But clipping it isn't pointless if you fall before getting to the next bolt..


Great route, one of my Gorge favorites


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Owens River Gorge : Upper Gorge : ... : Gorgeous (5.10b)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Nov 14, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The 5th or 6th bolt is crazy bent. Can't imagine how it could get so fed up.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Unknown name( 20 in 2nd ed... (5.10) : Photo
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Nov 7, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Yes Sir


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Big Guy (5.11-)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Nov 6, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: What a fun climb. First time ever for me on a route like this. I did find it very sustained and it was so nice when you can finally get a knee in but I was still able to get no hands rests most of the way by sticking my leg in waist high and caming my foot then rotating my hips to cam my leg. Stack pull up repeat.



Gotta say I felt way more worked after TRing Generator Crack in Yosemite and it is a 1/4 of the length but for the Creek I guess 11- is fair


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Scarface : Twitch (5.11)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Nov 6, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Great pitch! Getting over the roof is a puzzle, once you figure it out it's not so bad but still stouter than many pitches of the same grade. Having a #3 ready to go at the lip was nice for my head. Also why not double up on the pro under the roof(play to win)?

Hard to believe some folks only give this 2 stars, one of the better pitches at the Creek.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Wiggins I (5.11-)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Nov 5, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The highlight of my latest Creek trip and the climb that stands out above the rest for pure quality desert climbing. Grade wise not the biggest tick you will get but aesthetically it doesn't get any better, just look at the setting. Big hands would make this climb almost easy but just think how hard all those tight hand cracks would be.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Sacred Cow Wall : Steve Carruthers Memorial (5.11)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Nov 5, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: What a line! Got to do this on my last day this trip. Hiked up there for this one a few years back with a pack full of #3BDs and 4 friends but the route was being top roped the whole day by a giant party. Had to go back this trip and it was so worth it.

A few good hand jams lead to endless cups. The pods give you great rests but were also, for me, the cruxes climbing past them. I was able to keep the pump factor at bay with rests in the pods and even a no hands knee up high. ... more >>


Page 6 of 64.  <<First   <Prev   4  5  6  7  8   Next>   Last>>