Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Low Profile Dome : Orange Man (5.10c)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: 4 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I found Orange Man easier or at least no harder than Darth Vader's or Shit Hooks. Out of the three Darth Vader's was the hardest.
|
Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Bishop Area : Pine Creek Canyon : Scheelite Crags : ... : The Big Deal (5.9)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: May 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rick, glad to see you and Austin are still getting after it over there. The route looks good. I need a tour when the pass opens.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Technicolor Wall : Technicolor (5.11+)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Apr 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: What's the anchor sitch, been replaced yet or should I bring my drill.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Technicolor Wall : Unnamed 5.10- (5.10-)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Apr 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this the Crowning???
Also the unnamed 5.9?
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Bombay Bitch (5.10b)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Apr 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I forgot to mention that you could easily link Slinging the Blues with the Bitch. Would be very cool. The problem is all the gear. It is nice to have at least 2 3s and a 3.5 for Slinging the Blues. You could skip the 3.5 but then you would want another 3. You also need a couple of 3s for the Bitch and a 3.5 fits perfect at the start. Not a big deal until you add that to the 2 5s and 6s. Nothing smaller than the 3 2s in the Bitch.
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Bombay Bitch (5.10b)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Apr 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Alexey, it is easy to find and you would love all three pitches. Also you would love Eye of the Liger. Do Tweet This on the Cockshead on the way over. To get there hike like your going to Hayley Anna. A bit before you get to Hayley Anna you walk through a cool shady treed area, about midway through look for a few flat rocks stacked below the climb in the trees. I think this route is your cup of tea but it is unpleaseant and hard when even a little wet.
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Yosemite Falls Area : Sunnyside Bench : Raisin (5.9 R)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Apr 14, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: IMO the best face pitch for the grade in the Valley.
In 12+ years living in yosemite I have never seen anyone on it. What does that say for the popularity of R rated climbs. Kinda too bad. Great fun climbing with cool features. Also FYI, the pitch isn't over til it's over.
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : The Cookie Cliff : The Elevator Shaft (5.8 R)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Apr 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did this route again yesterday, it is great. 5 star route although rock quality causes it to loose a couple of stars and does make it R for the climber, belayer and anyone else below.
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Flying In The Mountains (5.11a)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Apr 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oops, left facing for sure. Imagine making an error in your writing? Just fixed it.
I enjoyed the "nasaty groove" and I really like the second pitch.
The "bolted" arete(Rough around the Edges)with one bolt and the direct are IMO better starts than the left facing corner which is often wet.
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : After Six (5.6)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Mar 31, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just looked in my old green Roper guide(1971) and it shows After Six as 5.7 so 5.7 isn't a retro grade after all.
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : Jump for Joy (5.9 R)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Mar 31, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very cool route on bomber though very slick rock. A bit sporty to the first protection. I find the bolt on the route poorly located and also unnecessary as there is a solid piece about 6' to the left. A bit dicey(ankle breaker) above the bolt moving left to a good jug and good protection.
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Crossover (5.9)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Mar 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is/was a pin for protection before the mentioned hard to reach stopper. Also if you start the pitch a bit further right and approach it more directly there are more protection opportunities.
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Eye of the Beholder (5.9) : Photo
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Mar 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I like this shot, you get a good sense of how big that wall is.
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Reed's Pinnacle Area : Dr. Fun Time (5.10d)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Mar 26, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Alexey, nice job on that pitch! Did you onsight? I don't think that pitch will ever be a white streak.... I don't think it will be around long enough. But yes, there is good hard climbing in all that choss.
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Castle Valley : The Rectory : Fine Jade (5.11a)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Mar 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route!
This is what I wish I had brought
(1)0C3,(2)1C3,(2)2C3,(3).4,(2).5,(3).75,(2)1,(2)2,
(1)70m rope
I did not place a single 3 or 4. Most descriptions lead one to believe that you will be fist jamming and doing OW moves. I did neither. I remember tight hands to perfect hands, reach past the wide, back to tight hands.
Great .4 finger locks through the crux but the feet suck.
I did the bolted finish. I found it thought provoking but very doable, but not easy.
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : Free For All (5.9)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Jan 10, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: A bolt is now in place instead of the pin...happy climbing.
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Arch Rock : Leanie Meanie (5.11b)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Dec 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wouldn't bring a 3.5 and a 4, just the 4 is fine. I have also done it with a 5 which is better but a 4 works. And no you can not walk a #3 in the OW. But you can after the OW in the big hands to fist section.
|
Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Parkline Slab : P-Line Express (5.10+)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Nov 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kevin, I got the rope stuck in the corner on the FA. So bad that I was unable to move up and Josh, belaying, could not pull it down. Had to build an anchor mid pitch and rap to fix it. Now I put extra gear in the crack to fill the slot at the lip of the roof(extra in the small finger sizes), seems to work. Have contemplated a bolt.
|
Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point West : ... : Victimless Climb (5.10)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Nov 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can you sgueeze the lemon any harder???
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 4X4 : 4 x 4 (5.11-)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Nov 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sweet pitch!
I never got a single fist jam. Hands to cups to big cups, but no fist. Also I wouldn't bring a 3.5 Camalot unless you don't have enough 3s. Be carefull not to get the 3.5 stuck.
I thought it was harder than 10+ but could see 10+ if one had much bigger hands
|
Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : Unamed 5.10+ (5.10+)
By: Jeff Scheuerell When: Nov 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: What a great pitch! Do be carefull with the avoidable looseness below the roof. Also at the top where the rock turns from splitter big hands to a questionable flake. I did not put any pro in this last 10' before the anchor. There is also a bit of looseness right before the anchor.
The crowds were gathered around MC's when we got to the base. Asked a guy if he knew how far left it was to this route. He said "We don't go to the left". What a mistake, this guys ego is causing him to miss one stell... more >>
|
RSS Feed
