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Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff McLeod on The Scientist 5.11a


Member Since: Nov 3, 2011
Last Visit: 15 hours ago
Contact Jeff McLeod

Jeff McLeod
is a member of
Point Rank: # 6,124
Total Points: 81
Last Year: 21
Last 30 Days: 1
7 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 799 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 7 | Page Improvements | Comments 36 | Posts 53 | Stars 378 | Ratings 324
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Beauty Mountain : Middle Beauty : Chasin' the Wind (5.11b)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Jul 3, 2016

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Comments: I can't think of many pitches anywhere that exceed this one in terms of all-around quality -- spectacular position (view of the entire gorge), amazing movement, flawless stone.

The 5.9 approach pitch is PG13 and 5.9++++++

Rack: a good selection of small to medium cams, and micronuts are a must. I would also recommend bringing a #1 (and maybe 0.75?) and #3 camalot; the #3 is very nice to put in after the first crux to build peace of mind.

There... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Morro Bay Harbor : Morro Rock : The Michael Banks Proposal ... (5.3 X)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Jun 8, 2016

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Comments: This route being in the top 10 is only a hair sillier than the fact that 6 of the current top 10 are in Eldo and Moab


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Chapel Pond Pass : Hurricane Crag : Forever Wild (5.10b/c)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Apr 20, 2016

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Comments: An excellent and sustained crack that goes from big fingers, to off fingers, to splitter hands, to fists! It starts above a horrendous and unavoidable 20ft stack of dirt and a vertical approach that makes for a pretty uncomfortable belay, but when you see it rapping from one of the other climbs you start salivating. I believe it's rated 5.10b in the guidebook. It didn't feel much harder than any of the classic 5.10s at the Spider's Web, but my big hands and fat fingers were well suited to this o... more >>


Location: South America : Chile : Valle Cochamó : Cerro La Junta : Camp Farm (5.11b)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Feb 21, 2016

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Comments: an awesome climb just outside of camp.

the first version of pitch one as described by Paul can now be easily broken into two pitches. I can´t comment on the .11c variation but as we did it, pitch one followed the right side of the arch, the left facing shallow corner, at 5.10something, going around a small overhang with good gear to a bolted anchor. the second pitch followed a bolted slab out of the arch up and right then back slightly left to a big ledge with pools of water, this pitch had ... more >>


Location: South America : Chile : Valle Cochamó : Cerro Trinidad : E.Z. Does It (5.10+)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Feb 21, 2016

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Comments: you found pitch 6 by accident????

one of the most classic pitches i´ve ever been on and a wonderful route overall...thanks for your work!

We climbed EZ does it the first dry day after several days of moderate to heavy rainfall. There were very wet sections on the first two pitches, particularly surpassing the roof on pitch 2 (a slimy crux!) but afterwards, the route was nice and dry with some help from the afternoon sun. One of the first routes to dry off on Trinidad, I should think.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Double Indemnity (5.11a)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Nov 1, 2015

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Comments: Classic stemming, reminiscent of El Mat, but somewhat easier because there are a few intermediate rests and it's a bit more narrow. I think the crux is fair at .11a, by the time I got there I was so worked that I couldn't figure out the sequence. 2nd try, upon further examination though, it went. For the last 30-40 feet of the stem box I was looking around the face for where to traverse over, you'll know when to do it - the crack disappears and you gotta get out of there.

For what it's worth, t... more >>


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Hollywood & Vine (5.10c)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Nov 1, 2015

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Comments: This pitch is full-value and badass as hell, a quintessential Tower experience. In-your-face climbing on finger locks and thin face holds with just enough rests to give you time to take it all in. There is even a mono-lock in there! Wow!

It protects well with finger and fat-finger sized pieces. Like 0.2-0.75 camalots. I placed an RP or two in there as well, so take those and the usual rack of stoppers.

The approach pitch is certainly harder than 5.5, stemming and wide jams. I can't recommend... more >>


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Soler Eclipse (5.11b)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Nov 1, 2015

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Comments: This is a great climb with difficult face moves. All of the bolts as of this past weekend are nice and bomber. The first pitch crux may be height-dependent, I'm 5'9'' and it felt very desperate to me. I felt the second pitch to be somewhere in the 5.10 range, not a gimme pitch by any means, and the bolts are well spaced - would not be fun to fall. Some holds flexed, too, and you have to stand on them. Great climbing on this pitch too though, it helps if you feel comfortable on run-out slab.

Yo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Practice Wall (5.11a)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Oct 27, 2015

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Comments: This route was really fun - two full-value pitches that require good technique, the first relying on stemming moves followed by a somewhat desperate bouldery crux, the second again requiring some stemming and powerful laybacking.

I'm just about 5'9", and for me, the first pitch felt at least a letter grade harder than the second, due to its virtual lack of decent holds through the dihedral. If you are pretty short like me, also make sure your belayer is paying attention. You have to do a very b... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Lighthouse Tower : Lonely Vigil (5.10)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Oct 10, 2015

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Comments: Classic route - Fully stemmed out and cranking on jugs!

Don't kid yerself - if you for some reason decide to blow the 5.8 moves on the summit pitch you will take a ledge fall. Pro placed in the crumbly junk below the lip is useless. It will explode in your face and you will still take a 10 ft ledge fall. BUT do this pitch, it is worth it. just don't fall! Easy mantle move on huge holds!

Also, after reading one previous commenter who had the same experience, will go ahead and mention that our ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Finnegan's Whiskers (5.10)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Oct 10, 2015

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Comments: This route was fun with some strenuous cruxes near the top and some tough liebacking right off the ground. I elected to take the thin 0.3-0.5 camalot crack to the left of the flake to start, because the most accessible part of the flake looked a bit crusty and loose to place pro in. That said, after a few moves off the ground you can stem or hand-jam out right into the flake and feel very secure.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : North Peak, East Face : Streptococcus (5.9)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Sep 21, 2015

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Comments: A great route eerily reminiscent of Morning Thunder in Eldorado Canyon. The jams are good.

If you want to put up said top rope, you'll need a decently long cordelette or similar to sling the tree at the top.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - East Face : Upper Broadway : High Test (5.9+)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Sep 20, 2015

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Comments: One of if not the best climb I've done at Seneca. This is in-your-face climbing that challenges a variety of skills. Is any move harder than 5.9? Probably not. But it's consistently hard 5.9 for 100 feet with few good rests. Certified classic. A single 60m rope doesn't quite reach the ground.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : North Peak, East Face : Psychoprophylaxis (5.10b)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Sep 20, 2015

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Comments: A cool route, flagrantly sandbagged, with a serious upper section. The crux for me did not take place at the end of the crack, but pulling over the bulge up and left of the first overhang.

The last 20-30 feet of this route isn't just thin on gear - I found not a single serviceable piece, and the climbing is nontrivial. It's vertical and involved, and if you feel a bit pumped from the more difficult climbing below, it becomes a very serious lead very quickly.

Also, this route (along with Grea... more >>


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Bring on the Nubiles (5.9+ PG13)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Aug 30, 2015

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Comments: Detailed gear beta ahead.

Second pitch of this route is about as good as any exposed face climb I've done anywhere. It is also most definitely PG13. A fall during the crux hand traverse would be dangerous, especially if the microcam you hopefully placed in the tips crack blows, because there is a small outcropping/ledge not too far below that you could hit.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : Fire and Ice Buttress : Raiders of the Lost Crag (5.10b)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: From its condition it seems this route doesn't get too much traffic, which is a shame because it was awesome. Cool roof crux with straight-in fist jams. Be careful at the top. It's nontrivial to get to the anchor (hand traverse), the top-out is on moss and crumbling sticks/bushes. There is a cordelette tied around a couple trees with biners but bring your own, it's moldy, old and stiff.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Second Buttress : Tough Situation (5.10a)
By: Jeff McLeod When: May 22, 2014

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Comments: For a three star variation at possibly 5.10a/b, step out onto the face to your right after finishing the finger crack section in the dihedral above the initial roof, and follow the challenging and awesome zig zag finger/tips crack to the shared finish with Classic Finger Crack.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Chockstone (5.10a)
By: Jeff McLeod When: May 16, 2014

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Comments: I wasted a good amount of time reading the flame war in the comments above after doing this route yesterday and came away with the thought of "why would anyone only want to do the first pitch of this route anyway...?" I linked the first and second pitches, and I would have given it 3 and a half stars if I could, I think it was a delightful, challenging, sustained pitch with one of the coolest and most awkward topouts I've ever done. A great spot to belay off a tree at the top while you laugh at ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Metamorphosis (5.10-)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Apr 21, 2014

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Comments: I don't know, I've done a lot of climbs in Eldo now, and there haven't been many that are this good. Just amazing. This climb engaged me physically, mentally, and spiritually. It really requires you to face your fears. As a link up with Diffraction, many long runners (15 or so) and a 70m rope does the trick. I did it with a 60 and was feeling fat at the top. Being dragged down at the final run-out move was pretty terrifying. Regardless, I feel like I have to say that this climb is a quintessenti... more >>


Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Escalante Canyon : Interiors Wall Area : Photo
By: Jeff McLeod When: Feb 17, 2014

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Comments: I climbed the route labeled "NEW" in this photo this past weekend. It is excellent and can be rapped with a single 60m rope from bolted anchors at the top, which are in OK condition as far as I could tell. Going to submit to the area in a sec because this climb is totally worth doing. I will put 5.11- as the grade as I couldn't tell exactly, and welcome others' opinions. I pulled on a #4 through the hardest section, so like I said, I'm not sure what the free grade would be.


Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Waiting For Columbus (5.10b/c)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Nov 16, 2013

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Comments: Climbed Waiting for Columbus yesterday. A spectacular route with varied, thoughtful, challenging moves at the 5.10 level. There are relatively long sections of easier 5.8ish jug-hauling with less-than-ideal options for protection, but the climbing is so fun you'll barely notice how run-out you are. Be sure to inspect holds that look weak or crumbly; some jugs on this route seemed a bit creaky to me. Head up and left after you top out to find the eye bolt. It's a bit tricky to spot, but... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Direct Cop Out (5.10b)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Oct 27, 2013

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Comments: This is a fun route with the most interesting moves comparable in quality with the route "Left Side" on this same formation. When I climbed it, P1 was protected entirely by good bolts and P2 was protected by newish bolts at the upper crux. I found it exciting that the lower crux traverse section (just one or two steps) has to be protected by small cams and a horrible old bolt.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Syke's Sickle (5.9+)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: An adventure in route finding, I guess I should have brought along better beta as I had several unforeseen adventures. First, on pitch 3 climbing up from Middle Earth ledge, I found myself leading a 30 foot 5.8 runout slab. Oh well. Then climbing up into the sickle, my beta from the guidebook I used indicated that it was a chimney/crack system then a traverse to the right, so I ended up stuck under the giant roof and had to get lowered down cleaning on the way - luckily it looked like a bunch of... more >>


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Fritz's Fantasy (5.10b/c)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Jul 22, 2013

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Comments: What an absolute pleasure to climb, although I cheated and stemmed out a couple times. 5.10b my ass! This is a stout 5.10 face climb with strenuous, delicate moves. It seems to go on forever. If you're not comfortable soloing 5.6 or so to get to the first bolt, bring some wide gear for the offwidth. It took longer than I expected.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Idiot Wind (5.10b/c)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: I found RPs to be prudent on this route. It gets a PG-13 rating from me, because I did the original start and there is a short run-out section traversing over to the Nose dihedral/crack system that would be quite unpleasant to botch. The moves on the crux traverse are delicate, and I laughed like a maniac when I saw that absolutely manky first bolt. My mother would be ashamed to hear the stream of profanities issuing from me during this section. Have fun :)


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