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Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff McLeod on The Scientist 5.11a

Member Since: Nov 3, 2011
Last Visit: Jan 5, 2016
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Jeff McLeod
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Point Rank: # 5,938
Total Points: 76
Last Year: 16
Last 30 Days: 0
6 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1

Where has Jeff McLeod been climbing?


All 610 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 7 | Page Improvements | Comments 31 | Posts 46 | Stars 289 | Ratings 236
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Contributed Comments


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Double Indemnity (5.11a)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Nov 1, 2015

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Comments: Classic stemming, reminiscent of El Mat, but somewhat easier because there are a few intermediate rests and it's a bit more narrow. I think the crux is fair at .11a, by the time I got there I was so worked that I couldn't figure out the sequence. 2nd try, upon further examination though, it went. For the last 30-40 feet of the stem box I was looking around the face for where to traverse over, you'll know when to do it - the crack disappears and you gotta get out of there.

For what it's worth, t... more >>

Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Hollywood & Vine (5.10c)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Nov 1, 2015

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Comments: This pitch is full-value and badass as hell, a quintessential Tower experience. In-your-face climbing on finger locks and thin face holds with just enough rests to give you time to take it all in. There is even a mono-lock in there! Wow!

It protects well with finger and fat-finger sized pieces. Like 0.2-0.75 camalots. I placed an RP or two in there as well, so take those and the usual rack of stoppers.

The approach pitch is certainly harder than 5.5, stemming and wide jams. I can't recommend... more >>

Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Soler Eclipse (5.11b)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Nov 1, 2015

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Comments: This is a great climb with difficult face moves. All of the bolts as of this past weekend are nice and bomber. The first pitch crux may be height-dependent, I'm 5'9'' and it felt very desperate to me. I felt the second pitch to be somewhere in the 5.10 range, not a gimme pitch by any means, and the bolts are well spaced - would not be fun to fall. Some holds flexed, too, and you have to stand on them. Great climbing on this pitch too though, it helps if you feel comfortable on run-out slab.

Yo... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Practice Wall (5.11a)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Oct 27, 2015

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Comments: This route was really fun - two full-value pitches that require good technique, the first relying on stemming moves followed by a somewhat desperate bouldery crux, the second again requiring some stemming and powerful laybacking.

I'm just about 5'9", and for me, the first pitch felt at least a letter grade harder than the second, due to its virtual lack of decent holds through the dihedral. If you are pretty short like me, also make sure your belayer is paying attention. You have to do a very b... more >>

Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Lighthouse Tower : Lonely Vigil (5.10)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Oct 10, 2015

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Comments: Classic route - Fully stemmed out and cranking on jugs!

Don't kid yerself - if you for some reason decide to blow the 5.8 moves on the summit pitch you will take a ledge fall. Pro placed in the crumbly junk below the lip is useless. It will explode in your face and you will still take a 10 ft ledge fall. BUT do this pitch, it is worth it. just don't fall! Easy mantle move on huge holds!

Also, after reading one previous commenter who had the same experience, will go ahead and mention that our ... more >>

Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Finnegan's Whiskers (5.10)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Oct 10, 2015

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Comments: This route was fun with some strenuous cruxes near the top and some tough liebacking right off the ground. I elected to take the thin 0.3-0.5 camalot crack to the left of the flake to start, because the most accessible part of the flake looked a bit crusty and loose to place pro in. That said, after a few moves off the ground you can stem or hand-jam out right into the flake and feel very secure.

Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : North Peak, East Face : Streptococcus (5.9)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Sep 21, 2015

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Comments: A great route eerily reminiscent of Morning Thunder in Eldorado Canyon. The jams are good.

If you want to put up said top rope, you'll need a decently long cordelette or similar to sling the tree at the top.

Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - East Face : Upper Broadway : High Test (5.9+)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Sep 20, 2015

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Comments: One of if not the best climb I've done at Seneca. This is in-your-face climbing that challenges a variety of skills. Is any move harder than 5.9? Probably not. But it's consistently hard 5.9 for 100 feet with few good rests. Certified classic. A single 60m rope doesn't quite reach the ground.

Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : North Peak, East Face : Psychoprophylaxis (5.10b)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Sep 20, 2015

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Comments: A cool route, flagrantly sandbagged, with a serious upper section. The crux for me did not take place at the end of the crack, but pulling over the bulge up and left of the first overhang.

The last 20-30 feet of this route isn't just thin on gear - I found not a single serviceable piece, and the climbing is nontrivial. It's vertical and involved, and if you feel a bit pumped from the more difficult climbing below, it becomes a very serious lead very quickly.

Also, this route (along with Grea... more >>

Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Bring on the Nubiles (5.9+ PG13)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Aug 30, 2015

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Comments: Detailed gear beta ahead.

Second pitch of this route is about as good as any exposed face climb I've done anywhere. It is also most definitely PG13. A fall during the crux hand traverse would be dangerous, especially if the microcam you hopefully placed in the tips crack blows, because there is a small outcropping/ledge not too far below that you could hit.

Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : Fire and Ice Buttress : Raiders of the Lost Crag (5.10b)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Aug 24, 2015

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Comments: From its condition it seems this route doesn't get too much traffic, which is a shame because it was awesome. Cool roof crux with straight-in fist jams. Be careful at the top. It's nontrivial to get to the anchor (hand traverse), the top-out is on moss and crumbling sticks/bushes. There is a cordelette tied around a couple trees with biners but bring your own, it's moldy, old and stiff.

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Second Buttress : Tough Situation (5.9+)
By: Jeff McLeod When: May 22, 2014

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Comments: For a three star variation at possibly 5.10a/b, step out onto the face to your right after finishing the finger crack section in the dihedral above the initial roof, and follow the challenging and awesome zig zag finger/tips crack to the shared finish with Classic Finger Crack.

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Chockstone (5.10a)
By: Jeff McLeod When: May 16, 2014

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Comments: I wasted a good amount of time reading the flame war in the comments above after doing this route yesterday and came away with the thought of "why would anyone only want to do the first pitch of this route anyway...?" I linked the first and second pitches, and I would have given it 3 and a half stars if I could, I think it was a delightful, challenging, sustained pitch with one of the coolest and most awkward topouts I've ever done. A great spot to belay off a tree at the top while you laugh at ... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - S Face : The Metamorphosis (5.10a)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Apr 21, 2014

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Comments: I don't know, I've done a lot of climbs in Eldo now, and there haven't been many that are this good. Just amazing. This climb engaged me physically, mentally, and spiritually. It really requires you to face your fears. As a link up with Diffraction, many long runners (15 or so) and a 70m rope does the trick. I did it with a 60 and was feeling fat at the top. Being dragged down at the final run-out move was pretty terrifying. Regardless, I feel like I have to say that this climb is a quintessenti... more >>

Location: CO : Grand Junction Area : Escalante Canyon : Interiors Wall Area : Photo
By: Jeff McLeod When: Feb 17, 2014

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Comments: I climbed the route labeled "NEW" in this photo this past weekend. It is excellent and can be rapped with a single 60m rope from bolted anchors at the top, which are in OK condition as far as I could tell. Going to submit to the area in a sec because this climb is totally worth doing. I will put 5.11- as the grade as I couldn't tell exactly, and welcome others' opinions. I pulled on a #4 through the hardest section, so like I said, I'm not sure what the free grade would be.

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : Waiting For Columbus (5.10c)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Nov 16, 2013

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Comments: Climbed Waiting for Columbus yesterday. A spectacular route with varied, thoughtful, challenging moves at the 5.10 level. There are relatively long sections of easier 5.8ish jug-hauling with less-than-ideal options for protection, but the climbing is so fun you'll barely notice how run-out you are. Be sure to inspect holds that look weak or crumbly; some jugs on this route seemed a bit creaky to me. Head up and left after you top out to find the eye bolt. It's a bit tricky to spot, but... more >>

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Direct Cop Out (5.10b)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Oct 27, 2013

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Comments: This is a fun route with the most interesting moves comparable in quality with the route "Left Side" on this same formation. When I climbed it, P1 was protected entirely by good bolts and P2 was protected by newish bolts at the upper crux. I found it exciting that the lower crux traverse section (just one or two steps) has to be protected by small cams and a horrible old bolt.

Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Spearhead : Syke's Sickle (5.9+)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Aug 11, 2013

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Comments: An adventure in route finding, I guess I should have brought along better beta as I had several unforeseen adventures. First, on pitch 3 climbing up from Middle Earth ledge, I found myself leading a 30 foot 5.8 runout slab. Oh well. Then climbing up into the sickle, my beta from the guidebook I used indicated that it was a chimney/crack system then a traverse to the right, so I ended up stuck under the giant roof and had to get lowered down cleaning on the way - luckily it looked like a bunch of... more >>

Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Fritz's Fantasy (5.10b)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Jul 22, 2013

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Comments: What an absolute pleasure to climb, although I cheated and stemmed out a couple times. 5.10b my ass! This is a stout 5.10 face climb with strenuous, delicate moves. It seems to go on forever. If you're not comfortable soloing 5.6 or so to get to the first bolt, bring some wide gear for the offwidth. It took longer than I expected.

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : Sundance Buttress : Idiot Wind (5.10c)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Jun 24, 2013

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Comments: I found RPs to be prudent on this route. It gets a PG-13 rating from me, because I did the original start and there is a short run-out section traversing over to the Nose dihedral/crack system that would be quite unpleasant to botch. The moves on the crux traverse are delicate, and I laughed like a maniac when I saw that absolutely manky first bolt. My mother would be ashamed to hear the stream of profanities issuing from me during this section. Have fun :)

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : South Crack (5.11c)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: A fantastic route. Had the pleasure of whipping on my OS attempt right at the crux, on a brand new Camalot X4! I had trouble finding a belay without running it out up the left side East Ridge for a while, which produced an undesirable amount of rope drag. If you can muster up the strength to add a sling on your last piece before monkeying over the crux lip, do it.

Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : The Maiden : East Ridge (5.10)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Jun 3, 2013

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Comments: What an adventure! Although for me (5'8"), the third pitch crux getting past the fixed pin felt much harder than anything on the first pitch crack, which went quite smoothly and felt 5.10a/b. The third pitch is spicy in general with (beta ahead) the weird underclinging/hand traversing between 2nd & 3rd bolts. A fall would not be fun at that part at all. In general, an excellent climb with strange green pools at the summit and a crazy/wild rappel off the top!

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : i. High E : Directississima (5.10b)
By: Jeff McLeod When: May 22, 2013

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Comments: Quite a difficult, pumpy climb - the sequence off the 1p ledge is tough, with gear that isn't fantastic and a finger lock depending on a loose stone lodged in a notch. I took a whipper on my onsight attempt at this part, as my hand popped right out of the hold. I give this climb a solid 4 stars; the climbing up the high E buttress is simply spectacular although I have no shame in calling "Doubleissima" a hard 5.10.

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lower Dream Canyon : Wall of Winter Warmth : Left Side (5.9+)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Jan 19, 2013

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Comments: The only part where this is above 5.9, in my opinion, is the very beginning of the crux pitch cranking into the black streak crack/slot system. The rest, is absolutely incredible climbing with tricky moves, amazing exposure, and good pro. I'm not sure why there are bolts behind the tree with the cord, it doesn't allow you to reach the ground after two raps. I rapped off the bolts under the roof at the top of the last pitch and got back to the ground with three raps.

Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Rincon : Rincon - L of Center Route : Over the Hill (5.10b)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Oct 31, 2012

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Comments: Raise your hand if you cranked off the single digit pocket after the tree on the first pitch! What an awesome route; the 5.9 pitch can be lead using only stoppers.

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