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Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff McLeod on The Scientist 5.11a


Member Since: Nov 3, 2011
Last Visit: 3 days ago
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Jeff McLeod
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Point Rank: # 6,201
Total Points: 81
Last Year: 21
Last 30 Days: 0
7 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 798 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 7 | Page Improvements | Comments 35 | Posts 53 | Stars 378 | Ratings 324
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

Everything in Between Variation

5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c (2)

Trad, 1 pitch, 100'

CO : Grand Junction Area : ... : Interiors Wall Area

Feb 17, 2014

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian Davidson cruising Dollywood.

Brian Davidson cruising Dollywood.

WY : Vedauwoo : ... : Dollywood (5.10c)

Nov 1, 2015

Rock Climbing Photo: Stolen picture from the Interiors Wall area. Every...

Stolen picture from the Interiors Wall area. Everything in Between is the route labeled "New." There are no bolts in the middle of the route, but there are some at the top.

CO : Grand Junction Area : ... : Everything in Between Varia... (5.11)

Feb 17, 2014

Rock Climbing Photo: The legend, Lynn Hill herself, flashing the Leanin...

The legend, Lynn Hill herself, flashing the Leaning Boulder!

CO : Boulder : ... : Turd Boulder aka Leaning Bo...

Nov 3, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff McLeod on the Scientist, 5.11a.

Jeff McLeod on the Scientist, 5.11a.

CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : The Scientist (5.11a/b)

Apr 14, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff McLeod on The Scientist 5.11a

Jeff McLeod on The Scientist 5.11a

The People of Mountain Proj... : Jeff McLeod : Plotinus Wall 3/15/13

Apr 14, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff McLeod on The Scientist 5.11a

Jeff McLeod on The Scientist 5.11a

The People of Mountain Proj... : Jeff McLeod : Plotinus Wall 3/15/13

Apr 14, 2013

Rock Climbing Photo: Jeff McLeod on The Scientist 5.11a

Jeff McLeod on The Scientist 5.11a

The People of Mountain Proj... : Jeff McLeod : Plotinus Wall 3/15/13

Apr 14, 2013

Contributed Comments

 

Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Beauty Mountain : Middle Beauty : Chasin' the Wind (5.11b)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Jul 3, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: I can't think of many pitches anywhere that exceed this one in terms of all-around quality -- spectacular position (view of the entire gorge), amazing movement, flawless stone.

The 5.9 approach pitch is PG13 and 5.9++++++

Rack: a good selection of small to medium cams, and micronuts are a must. I would also recommend bringing a #1 (and maybe 0.75?) and #3 camalot; the #3 is very nice to put in after the first crux to build peace of mind.

There... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Keene Region : Hurricane Crag : Forever Wild (5.10b/c)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Apr 20, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: An excellent and sustained crack that goes from big fingers, to off fingers, to splitter hands, to fists! It starts above a horrendous and unavoidable 20ft stack of dirt and a vertical approach that makes for a pretty uncomfortable belay, but when you see it rapping from one of the other climbs you start salivating. I believe it's rated 5.10b in the guidebook. It didn't feel much harder than any of the classic 5.10s at the Spider's Web, but my big hands and fat fingers were well suited to this o... more >>


Location: South America : Chile : Valle Cochamó : Cerro La Junta : Camp Farm (5.11b)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Feb 21, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: an awesome climb just outside of camp.

the first version of pitch one as described by Paul can now be easily broken into two pitches. I can´t comment on the .11c variation but as we did it, pitch one followed the right side of the arch, the left facing shallow corner, at 5.10something, going around a small overhang with good gear to a bolted anchor. the second pitch followed a bolted slab out of the arch up and right then back slightly left to a big ledge with pools of water, this pitch had ... more >>


Location: South America : Chile : Valle Cochamó : Cerro Trinidad : E.Z. Does It (5.10+)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Feb 21, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: you found pitch 6 by accident????

one of the most classic pitches i´ve ever been on and a wonderful route overall...thanks for your work!

We climbed EZ does it the first dry day after several days of moderate to heavy rainfall. There were very wet sections on the first two pitches, particularly surpassing the roof on pitch 2 (a slimy crux!) but afterwards, the route was nice and dry with some help from the afternoon sun. One of the first routes to dry off on Trinidad, I should think.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Double Indemnity (5.11a)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Nov 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Classic stemming, reminiscent of El Mat, but somewhat easier because there are a few intermediate rests and it's a bit more narrow. I think the crux is fair at .11a, by the time I got there I was so worked that I couldn't figure out the sequence. 2nd try, upon further examination though, it went. For the last 30-40 feet of the stem box I was looking around the face for where to traverse over, you'll know when to do it - the crack disappears and you gotta get out of there.

For what it's worth, t... more >>


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Hollywood & Vine (5.10c)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Nov 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This pitch is full-value and badass as hell, a quintessential Tower experience. In-your-face climbing on finger locks and thin face holds with just enough rests to give you time to take it all in. There is even a mono-lock in there! Wow!

It protects well with finger and fat-finger sized pieces. Like 0.2-0.75 camalots. I placed an RP or two in there as well, so take those and the usual rack of stoppers.

The approach pitch is certainly harder than 5.5, stemming and wide jams. I can't recommend... more >>


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : Soler Eclipse (5.11b)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Nov 1, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This is a great climb with difficult face moves. All of the bolts as of this past weekend are nice and bomber. The first pitch crux may be height-dependent, I'm 5'9'' and it felt very desperate to me. I felt the second pitch to be somewhere in the 5.10 range, not a gimme pitch by any means, and the bolts are well spaced - would not be fun to fall. Some holds flexed, too, and you have to stand on them. Great climbing on this pitch too though, it helps if you feel comfortable on run-out slab.

Yo... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Practice Wall (5.11a)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Oct 27, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This route was really fun - two full-value pitches that require good technique, the first relying on stemming moves followed by a somewhat desperate bouldery crux, the second again requiring some stemming and powerful laybacking.

I'm just about 5'9", and for me, the first pitch felt at least a letter grade harder than the second, due to its virtual lack of decent holds through the dihedral. If you are pretty short like me, also make sure your belayer is paying attention. You have to do a very b... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : River Road : Lighthouse Tower : Lonely Vigil (5.10)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Oct 10, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Classic route - Fully stemmed out and cranking on jugs!

Don't kid yerself - if you for some reason decide to blow the 5.8 moves on the summit pitch you will take a ledge fall. Pro placed in the crumbly junk below the lip is useless. It will explode in your face and you will still take a 10 ft ledge fall. BUT do this pitch, it is worth it. just don't fall! Easy mantle move on huge holds!

Also, after reading one previous commenter who had the same experience, will go ahead and mention that our ... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Fin Wall : Finnegan's Whiskers (5.10)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Oct 10, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: This route was fun with some strenuous cruxes near the top and some tough liebacking right off the ground. I elected to take the thin 0.3-0.5 camalot crack to the left of the flake to start, because the most accessible part of the flake looked a bit crusty and loose to place pro in. That said, after a few moves off the ground you can stem or hand-jam out right into the flake and feel very secure.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : North Peak, East Face : Streptococcus (5.9)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Sep 21, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: A great route eerily reminiscent of Morning Thunder in Eldorado Canyon. The jams are good.

If you want to put up said top rope, you'll need a decently long cordelette or similar to sling the tree at the top.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - East Face : Upper Broadway : High Test (5.9+)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Sep 20, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: One of if not the best climb I've done at Seneca. This is in-your-face climbing that challenges a variety of skills. Is any move harder than 5.9? Probably not. But it's consistently hard 5.9 for 100 feet with few good rests. Certified classic. A single 60m rope doesn't quite reach the ground.


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : North Peak, East Face : Psychoprophylaxis (5.10b)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Sep 20, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: A cool route, flagrantly sandbagged, with a serious upper section. The crux for me did not take place at the end of the crack, but pulling over the bulge up and left of the first overhang.

The last 20-30 feet of this route isn't just thin on gear - I found not a single serviceable piece, and the climbing is nontrivial. It's vertical and involved, and if you feel a bit pumped from the more difficult climbing below, it becomes a very serious lead very quickly.

Also, this route (along with Grea... more >>


Location: WV : Seneca Rocks : South Peak - West Face : Bring on the Nubiles (5.9+ PG13)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Aug 30, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: Detailed gear beta ahead.

Second pitch of this route is about as good as any exposed face climb I've done anywhere. It is also most definitely PG13. A fall during the crux hand traverse would be dangerous, especially if the microcam you hopefully placed in the tips crack blows, because there is a small outcropping/ledge not too far below that you could hit.


Location: WV : The New River Gorge : New River Gorge Proper : Kaymoor : Fire and Ice Buttress : Raiders of the Lost Crag (5.10b)
By: Jeff McLeod When: Aug 24, 2015

view comment >>
Comments: From its condition it seems this route doesn't get too much traffic, which is a shame because it was awesome. Cool roof crux with straight-in fist jams. Be careful at the top. It's nontrivial to get to the anchor (hand traverse), the top-out is on moss and crumbling sticks/bushes. There is a cordelette tied around a couple trees with biners but bring your own, it's moldy, old and stiff.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Second Buttress : Tough Situation (5.10a)
By: Jeff McLeod When: May 22, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: For a three star variation at possibly 5.10a/b, step out onto the face to your right after finishing the finger crack section in the dihedral above the initial roof, and follow the challenging and awesome zig zag finger/tips crack to the shared finish with Classic Finger Crack.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Chockstone (5.10a)
By: Jeff McLeod When: May 16, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I wasted a good amount of time reading the flame war in the comments above after doing this route yesterday and came away with the thought of "why would anyone only want to do the first pitch of this route anyway...?" I linked the first and second pitches, and I would have given it 3 and a half stars if I could, I think it was a delightful, challenging, sustained pitch with one of the coolest and most awkward topouts I've ever done. A great spot to belay off a tree at the top while you laugh at ... more >>


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