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Rock Climbing Photo: Keeping the ground-up ethic alive in the Hills. Al...


Member Since: Feb 19, 2007
Last Visit: 13 hours ago
Contact Jeff Mahoney

Point Rank: # 517
Total Points: 1,419
Last Year: 89
Last 30 Days: 0
28 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jeff Mahoney been climbing?










Contributions


All 411 | Routes 39 | Areas 6 | Photos 168 | Page Improvements | Comments 87 | Posts 10 | Stars 81 | Ratings 20
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Paul's Paradise : ... : Top Gun (5.10a)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: May 30, 2016

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Comments: Yo, Mr. D! Sorry, just saw your comment. Yes, Gun Rail is fun, too! My point is that the movement on Top Gun has more variation with the bit o' crack and a bit o' bulge and a bit o' run. More of a thinker is all. (No hurt feelings, dammit!)


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i... : Ugly Duckling (5.9)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Apr 17, 2016

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Comments: Nice! Glad it's official and we can climb it without fear of snaking the FA ;-)


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Monument Slot (aka Gunga Di... : ... : Chocolate Pocket (5.9+)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Mar 9, 2016

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Comments: Well, you asked for it. Good luck finding the bolts now. I'm raising the grade too, dammit...

(Contrast adjusted for visibility's sake. If I hadn't tweaked the pic, you'd just be looking at some monzogranite.)

Rock Climbing Photo: "Chocolate Pocket" bolts as of 3/9/16.
"Chocolate Pocket" bolts as of 3/9/16.



Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Monument Slot (aka Gunga Di... : ... : Peanut Butter & Chocolate (5.8)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Mar 9, 2016

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Comments: Russ had a valid point/concern (meaning the issue has been remedied).


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Monument Slot (aka Gunga Di... : ... : Chocolate Pocket (5.9+)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Feb 18, 2016

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Comments: Thanks, Joe. Great to hear that from an unsolicited source. (We haven't met, right? I want to be clear this isn't a shill job ;-)

Not sure when you'll be up there again, Russ & Susan, but I'm sure the glare will be reduced enough so that you'll be able to enjoy the route without long-term corneal damage. (I'll even let the air out of the tires of that kid---I know where he lives now, or at least I will if he doesn't mess up the escrow closing...)


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Monument Slot (aka Gunga Di... : ... : Peanut Butter & Chocolate (5.8)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Feb 15, 2016

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Comments: See? That's why you're the man. Good idea about the mid-station, being on the old duffer threshold myself (but yeah, boredom kills). I'll post an update after remediation.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Monument Slot (aka Gunga Di... : ... : Peanut Butter & Chocolate (5.8)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Feb 15, 2016

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Comments: Okay, okay, UNCLE! I will go back and put bolts in everywhere I can stop. (I will take a look at bolt #5 and see if any of the rock sprouted and will remedy. Woulda done it yesterday, but didn't see these interwebs the last few days.)


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Monument Slot (aka Gunga Di... : ... : Chocolate Pocket (5.9+)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Feb 15, 2016

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Comments: Due to some typical miscommunication, the bolts weren't camo'd beforehand, but should be sufficiently hidden in a few weeks. And no, the route left of Tall Wall wasn't me; it was that kid who stole your shovel...

But seriously, did you not enjoy the route?


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Shark's Fin : Shark's Fin Arete (5.7)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Jan 14, 2016

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Comments: The BLM and the Alabama Hills Stewardship Group have been working on restoration projects in the Hills. Currently, the short stretch of road (200 meters) out to the Fin is closed to cars and is now a trail from a dedicated parking area. Other than the obvious conservation aspect, one added benefit is that you won't have to crop out the cars from your hero shots, making them all that more impressive to grandma...

Rock Climbing Photo: The current Alabama Hills restoration project at t...
The current Alabama Hills restoration project at the Shark Fin means that there's now a two-minute approach. Oh, the horror...



Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : The Shark's Fin
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Jan 14, 2016

view comment >>
Comments: The BLM and the Alabama Hills Stewardship Group have been working on restoration projects in the Hills. Currently, the short stretch of road (200 meters) out to the Fin is closed to cars and is now a trail from a dedicated parking area. Other than the obvious conservation aspect, one added benefit is that you won't have to crop out the cars from your hero shots, making them all that more impressive to grandma...

Rock Climbing Photo: The current Alabama Hills restoration project at t...
The current Alabama Hills restoration project at the Shark Fin means that there's now a two-minute approach. Oh, the horror...



Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i...
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Dec 2, 2015

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Comments: Ah, so bolts have appeared now, eh? How far up does the route go? We were there a few weeks ago and the work rope was hanging down from the ledge, but they hadn't equipped yet. I'm sure "someone" will fill in the blanks for us soon...


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Monument Slot (aka Gunga Di... : ... : Peanut Butter & Chocolate (5.8)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: I appreciate your input, Mtnfly, however, I did not set out to make a runout route. I had no ego invested in putting it up: the line itself dictated what it became. It was done ground-up in good style and is well-protected at the crux points. ("Sporty runouts" in the description, along with "9 bolts for 165 feet" should give you enough guidance for what to expect.) Separately, I and the rest of FA party are nowhere near 5.12 climbers (and I am a good deal older than you). We too have logged many... more >>


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Monument Slot (aka Gunga Di... : ... : Chocolate Pocket (5.9+)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Oct 16, 2015

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Comments: Thanks! Stoked it's getting traffic and people are enjoying it as much as we do.


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Monument Slot (aka Gunga Di... : ... : Photo
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Oct 16, 2015

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Comments: Why a rope? That's totally 3rd class! ;-)


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Monument Slot (aka Gunga Di... : ... : Chocolate Pocket (5.9+)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Sep 29, 2015

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Comments: After the chimney, stay on the bolt line. Heading into the loose corner left not only lowers the grade, but has the tendency to dislodge large plates that will rain down on your belayer. With traffic, the bulge is starting to clean up pretty well. (Still fairly crappy rock in that short section, but it will keep you focused...)


Location: CA : Sierra Eastside : Lone Pine Area : Alabama Hills : Paul's Paradise : ... : Top Gun (5.10a)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Sep 28, 2015

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Comments: Arguably the better of the routes on this side, good movement and a bit more thoughtful than the other straight-up lines, but definitely not 10b. (And using a cam seems like overkill for clipping the first bolt with your feet at about the 7' mark, especially in the Hills. If your belayer is spotting you---like they should be anyway---you'll be fine.)


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i... : Written Exam (5.9 PG13)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Aug 25, 2015

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Comments: Thanks for the work retro'ing this, Matthew. (Is the rap line gone now? That thing was getting a bit "crunchy," eh?)

As I mentioned elsewhere, this route is worth doing if you're up there, but it really pales in comparison to "Tender Flakes" and "Fun..." (1-star means "OK" so that's my vote, maybe "OK-and-a-half" if it cleans up, but I'm just a whiner so take that with a grain of sand---which you'll have plenty of down low on the route... ;-)


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i...
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Aug 10, 2015

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Comments: Haha, the best laid plans... I didn't know it was your stuff. I was more emphasizing that if people are up there, best not to try using the soft goods. (We honored the "refrain" notice of the red quickdraw, fyi.) But great work!


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Renaissance Crag : Sword In The Stone (5.9+)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: Great rock, but I was expecting a bit more given the raves. (80 feet?) It's got some fun, sustained 5.9 moves with good feet. Knock out all the Alchemy routes and end the afternoon on this (and the TR) and you will have had an excellent day out.


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i...
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: So what's the line left of "Tender Flakes"? (Rebolt?) Lots of crumbly rock down low, and unfortunately the movement wasn't up to the bar set by the other routes. Worth doing if you're there, though. (Also, your project ropes are starting to get pretty crispy, guys...)


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i... : Tender Flakes of Mercy (5.8 PG13)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: A great companion to "Fun in the Sun" (and bolted just right). We didn't use any additional pieces and felt it was plenty safe. (Again, take that with a grain of salt if 5.8 is your limit.) This route would be good for one long pitch if you really want to swing that way, unlike "Fun," but everybody's got opinions, right? (Good work, guys!)


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Rattlesnake Canyon Crags (i... : Fun in the Sun (5.8 R)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Aug 9, 2015

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Comments: Finally (hooray!) got on this and the other routes yesterday. Great position, movement and fun. The bolt placements are where you want them and a couple of finger pieces will probably ease the mind, but if you're used to runouts, it's not bad. (If your limit is 5.8, you will probably not enjoy this route.) And like Andy said, make it a two-pitch deal---even then the diagonal across the headwall at the top is tugging you in the wrong direction. I can imagine doing it in one long pitch, but I'd ra... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Panic Town
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Apr 8, 2015

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Comments: Thanks, Cole. Fortunately (and unfortunately) for you, we had our first "spring cleaning" on Walls 1-3 on Saturday, pulling out a lot of weeds, poison oak and bramble from the routes which meant there was a lot more dirt in the cracks than usual---but you didn't have to contend with much vegetation on route (depending on what you climbed). The recent wind storms also contributed to a 300 lb. block shifting on the top of Wall 2 which got trundled and unleashed a huge amount of sand down most of t... more >>


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Potter's Point : Ms. T (5.8)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: Just came across this vid that Kevin at Fixe did for glue-ins. Textbook:



Other bolting vids are here:
fixehardware.com/shop/fixe-vid...


Location: CA : Central Coast : Santa Barbara : Potter's Point : Ms. T (5.8)
By: Jeff Mahoney When: Feb 12, 2015

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Comments: What's the difference between listening to epoxy nerds rant or having chronic tinnitus? (I'll let you come up with your own punchline...)

Obviously, the quality of the epoxy, cleanliness and depth of the hole and size of the bolt are key, the problem I see a lot is just poor execution, primarily people not recessing or countersinking the edges of the eye so the bolt doesn't turn. (There are some laughably placed glue-ins around the area with the eyelets sitting so high out of the rock they look... more >>


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