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Member Since: Jul 27, 2001
Last Visit: May 31, 2006
Contact Jeff Lockyer


Point Rank: # 646
Total Points: 951
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
9 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jeff Lockyer been climbing?










Contributions


All 241 | Routes 79 | Areas 5 | Photos 2 | Page Improvments | Comments 76 | Posts | Stars 79 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Qs (5.9+)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 25, 2001

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Comments: A really grat route, although I am not sure why the nostalgic anchors are still in place, those are scary. This route has a SUPERB photo-op on a beautiful sunny day, blue sky behind the arete looking down the canyon around the 4th bolt. A beauty..... Enjoy.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Fly Swatter (5.10c)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 25, 2001

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Comments: Peter, I just came back to this crag to see if there were any additions to the site. Noticed your comment and thought you may share with us some other worse routes than this. I have yet to come across one sport climbing in the canyon, at least compared to the other 50-60 routes I have done here. Seriously.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Antagonism (5.12a/b)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 25, 2001

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Comments: This is a great route. The crux is very well defined and you know to save the juice for this part. It is indeed height dependant, as some people may be able to reach and pull down on the upper crimp a lot easier, but there is always the tricky feet. Just paste them high and pull down as suggested.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : ArÍte (5.10d)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 25, 2001

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Comments: A good route, did it awhile back. I can't justify the 10d rating but would give it 10b/c, if you are using the holds all over the left face perhaps the route is 10a, but being an arete and doing the route keeping this in mind I think the rating stands. The proper name of the route, just for bookkeeping sakes is "Sunshine Arete".


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Wessel in the Chicken Coop (5.9)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 25, 2001

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Comments: Perhaps the key to making this climb a little easier, is the zig zagging as stated above. I think if you keep to the bolt line the route is enjoyable and the holds will be a little more slopey than the others to the left and right. I guess it could be considered an elimination kind of route, but either way have fun with this one. A good warm up with the route directly left, then continue around the corner.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : The Big Dipper (5.11a)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 25, 2001

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Comments: An enjoyable route, although it doesn't look very promising from the ground. The holds are large and the angle is steeper than it looks, if there was no bat shit all over the route, it would be much nicer, but a great line dispite all of this.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Green Slab Direct (5.9)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 25, 2001

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Comments: Thanks for the now fixed piece. We enjoyed clipping it today. At the point where the fixed pin is supposed to be, didnt find that ? I guess we got to the dissipating crack and then went left and up, just right of the arete to belay at the dead tree, a long pitch at approx. 180' feet from where we started, the description is not one of Rossiter's best. If doing it again, just trust the gear, now well below your feet and continue up to easier ground from the fixed piece. A decent route altogether ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Chicken Hawk (5.9)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 23, 2001

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Comments: I agree about the rating. But you must always think of the grading issues at 'The Sport Park' when you go up there. Many of the routes are a little overgraded. Perhaps this route could be 8+.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Second Buttress : Tough Situation (5.9+)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 20, 2001

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Comments: An excellent line. The feet really are not as good as they may appear from below. I think this route is about mid 5.10 perhaps a/b. Also a better approach than coming up the gully is just as the second buttress starts you will see crack going over a little bulge, layback this crack (a little dirty on feet) and approach the base of the route via a flake that runs just left of an arete and then up a slab. I give this line 2 stars and the Tough Situation 3 stars.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Recovery Room : Blackout (5.12b)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 18, 2001

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Comments: A great bouldery route with 4 bolts along the way. The route is very straight forward, if the holds are not chalked just think of how a crimpy route would be set in the gym, and you will find the holds, with some reachy moves for shorter (under 5'7") folks. A decent route, I would give it 2 stars. Worth doing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Recovery Room : Coffee Pot Crack (5.11b)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 18, 2001

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Comments: A decent route although the manufactured jug above the 3rd bolt is a bit of overkill. Seriously, did they need something for 2 hands ? A bit of a let down, but if you are here and want a quick clip-up, go nuts, watch the bat shit at the bottom, it may be slick.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Visor : Flying Machines (5.11c)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 18, 2001

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Comments: I agree with the last comment, it would be nice to see what this route was like a couple years ago. An enjoyable "comfortized" route, with nice jugs the whole way. The bottom may be more of a dyno-like sequence for shorter people, but from here haul away. Perhaps the grade is a little much, as stated before. But a good bit of fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Visor : Absolute Boulder Canyon (5.11b)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 18, 2001

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Comments: Not a bad route although overbolted a little much. The first move is a little height dependant, but being 5'8" just meant you made one other move, nothing harder than 11b. The top of the route can be eased with a right hand reaching far inside the crack, feet high and a great layback undercling, you can almost reach anchors from here, just move up the crack. A decent little route with no obvious manufactured holds ? 1 star.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Coloradoddity (5.10c)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 17, 2001

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Comments: Alan, do you know why these routes were not included in the sporting climbers guide book for boulder canyon, as they do not seem to be THAT new. The grading thing is debatable I guess. I dont think the route could go much harder than say 10d, especially if the rock was clean. It would make a big difference.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall : Up A Creek (5.11c)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 16, 2001

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Comments: This COULD be one of the better routes on the River Wall if the route was better cleaned on first ascent. There is really no need to keep that moss there, or the moss all around it by your feet. (Chances of slipping all over that stuff exist, and with the high clip already, makes a fall here a bad one). I would suggest it be cleaned a little more and it will see more traffic, also there is no mention of the bolts to the left of this, joining in with the route, once over the little roof, onto the... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Red Slab : Vapor Trail (5.9)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 16, 2001

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Comments: Agree with concensus about the rock quality. There ARE many loose block on the route and should not be used for feet but there are many feet and other holds to use, so just relax and look around, before you know it another bolt will be upon you. I would give this route 1 star, not as good as others on the wall. Not a good beginner's lead as stated before, just too many chances to takea big fall, be careful.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Red Slab : Diamondback (5.10b)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 16, 2001

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Comments: A nice route though I don't agree with Alan that it is a 3-star. The move pulling the roof at the start can go either on the right or left of the arete, left being easier on the crack up the corner. Right side I would suggest being quite stiff for 10b. The rest of the route is quite nice but I wouldn't say one of the best of its kind, seeing there really aren't any other walls like the Red Slab in the canyon. But all in all a good route. 2 stars.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Red Slab : Slip It In (5.11b)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 16, 2001

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Comments: Nice route. Make sure not to fall slipping 3rd bolt, otherwise you have a groundfall ! The crux is very well defined, but can be eased by headingleft if you don't like the 11a move. (which is an excellent move) Spot the left hand sidepull and right hand crimp to get your feet up and finish this route off. I would give the route 2 stars as well. The route perhaps could go straight up and be 2 different routes in this case, something to try on toprope.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Cornerstone : Victory in de Feet (5.11b)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 13, 2001

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Comments: A decent route, although easily mixed with the route to the right (the good book) try to limit yourself just before getting to the obvious jug. (5th bolt) There is a 1/2 finger pocket for the left hand and a right hand crimp to get you up and left, below the jug, from here it eases, a good route, but perhaps a little squeezed in. I give it 2 stars.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Cornerstone : The Mustard Seed (5.8+)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 13, 2001

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Comments: A very nice beginner lead, easier if you start the route on the arete (right) it may make it easier to get to the dihdral. Other than this a very straightforward route, with enjoyable climbing throughout. Have fun... I give this 3 stars.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Cornerstone : The Good Book (5.10c)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 13, 2001

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Comments: A great route for the 5.10 leader. The route is great as it is sustained from the ground up, the mantle is a great finish to the route, getting to the anchors. Perhaps a little overbolted (as most of the routes here) but clip what you want I guess.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Cornerstone : Assault of the Earth (5.11a)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 13, 2001

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Comments: Not a bad route, although quite easy to join into the good book, if you stick to the arete you will be o.k. with some feet on the face to the left of the arete, the move after the little roof seems to be the crux. A short route but great for a short days climbing, this whole crag actually. I give it 2 stars. May want to rap from this route, rope drag may be a factor.




Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Knappweed Herbacide (5.10d)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 12, 2001

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Comments: A decent 'warm up' route as mentioned in the name. The bottom is a bit of an eliminate but once situated on the arete, the climbing is nice to the top. Wondering what the second half of this route goes at, from the anchors to next 5 bolts? I would only give this a 1 star for rock quality and the amount of lichen still on the rock. Well protected moves getting over the first lip and to the anchors.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Wind Machine (5.11c/d)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 3, 2001

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Comments: A really cool route. Thought that it could use a little cleaning, but a little less travelled than others. The moves at the top are quite easy if you get the beta on the go. A good onsight, all the holds are there for the taking, just milk them like they should be. For the last move a heel hook eliminates any problems of clipping the anchors. Have fun with this one, like I did.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Empor (5.7+)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Aug 30, 2001

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Comments: Very nice route.. 3 stars indeed. We chose the direct approach up the dihedral and it didnt seem much harder than 5.7+/8 so a good choice, once you get that first piece. Also on P3 we took the choice of the line of 4 bolts to the left of the crack, anyone have any idea of what this goes at ? I was thinking somewhere in the range of 11b'ish ? A confirmation on that would be nice, as it is not to be found anywhere. Enjoyable climbing, great for intro leaders with tons of gear placements and great ... more >>


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