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Member Since: Jul 27, 2001
Last Visit: May 31, 2006
Contact Jeff Lockyer


Point Rank: # 655
Total Points: 951
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
9 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jeff Lockyer been climbing?










Contributions


All 241 | Routes 79 | Areas 5 | Photos 2 | Page Improvements | Comments 76 | Posts | Stars 79 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Nightcap (5.9)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 14, 2001

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Comments: I agree with the 3 stars for sure. The 5.9 section is very short indeed, also you dont need to build an anchor if you just run your rope back a little to a tree up and left and belay from here. You can scramble down and right to get to the anchors for 'grins' and rappell or downclimb. A very enjoyable route with a mix of everything. Enjoy..


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Dementia (5.10a)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 14, 2001

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Comments: A very impressive route and a solid 10a for sure. Nuts protect the crux as well as TCU's so pop em' in there and crank. A really good character building lead for the ambitious 5.10 leaders in the group, I would say the best route at Happy Hour and a very stiff lead, enjoyed it a lot ! 5 stars on a 3 star rating.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 13, 2001

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Comments: Awesome - Anyone know how long you can climb at Long's in the winter ? Are there any ice routes on this peak? Or just to it's left?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 5, 2001

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Comments: A lot of bickering over such a short route. My take on the situation is this, the first pitch of the route is very very nice and gives a surprising pump at the crux. Hopefully you can reach high enough to place that piece before committing to the crux. (especially if this is your first 10 lead). Pull down on the hueco and left hand jam, throw the right foot up high and DON'T look straight up for something positive, the good holds are to the left of the little roof two parallel crimps which can g... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : The Flakes (5.9)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 5, 2001

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Comments: A really nice route but be careful of rope drag once you turn the little roof to the right, I made a little mistake a therefore couldnt clip the pitons, not a big deal because of bolt 6 feet higher. May want to protect the second after the bolt if he/she is not quite at 5.9 as there would be a good swing. Gear is tricky on the upper half once you turn the roof but the climbing eases off. I would give it ** and not ***. C'st la Morte is a better route, albeit a bit harder. Ciao....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Werk Supp (5.9)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 5, 2001

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Comments: An Awesome line.. A little bit of everything, jamfest on P2, good fingers on P1, great length on P1. A really superb route. Good grading as well, P2 deserves more credit than it gets, it is a character builder once you get on it. Jump in !!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Mr. Natural (5.8+)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 4, 2001

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Comments: A great route. This route certainly can give you a pump if you fiddle with gear, all of the gear placements are great so keep climbing. Have fun with this one, a great warmup if you are doing Yellow Spur or anything higher up, Gma's, Darkness, etc..


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Positively Fourth Street (5.10a)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 3, 2001

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Comments: Not sure what they were thinking when they rated this 10a ? I [don't] think anyway you do this, unless you [do it one-armed], it can even touch a 10 rating. The rating seems very out of place for [Eldorado], as most of the 10s I have been on have been pretty hard, but not in this case, if you are a 5.8 leader looking to get into 5.9's with good gear, hop on this one. Have fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Morning Thunder (5.9+)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 3, 2001

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Comments: O.K. I have some issues about the rating thing here on west ridge. First we say that Pos. 4th is 10a ? Hmm, well I guess not. Then we say that 'Morning Thunder', which is more sustained than 'Pos. 4th' albeit short. I give Pos. maybe 5.9 and Morning Thunder 5.10a and as far as the #1 cam goes, leave it on the ground where it can be used for the belayer out to the right for a ground anchor point. Cheers..


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Rose Cliff : Sticks and Stone May Break ... (5.9+)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Oct 16, 2001

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Comments: I would agree with the description of the route and the quality, this is a great crack climb and very defined, there is also another gear route a little further down the crag to the right form here which looks like a beauty.. Good crack climbs on limestone, what ? Not a mistake this is a great line.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Suspender Man (5.11)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Oct 12, 2001

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Comments: Don't let the rating Matt has palced on here fool you. It is harder than 5.11, I think it is solid 11c/d as the guide book states, an excellent route which is steeper than is looks from the ground. One of my favorites in the Dark Side. 3 Stars.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Free Willie (5.11a)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Oct 4, 2001

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Comments: An excellent route for those of us 5'8" and taller. The reach past the 4th clip may almost be a dyno for some, but once past here the last moves will flow together. You can cut right at the matle or reach high for the chalked hold straight above to the left, have fun. I give this route 3 stars.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Animation aka Jaycene's Dan... (5.8)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Oct 4, 2001

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Comments: A great route. This route has plenty of holds as suggested. The length also adds to the enjoyment of the route. This is certainly a great warm up for the others on this crag. I would suggest 'Free Willie' and the 12a that you first see when you arrive from the left of the crag, a beauty. This is a super route for a new leader, not sure how to interpret 'Turbo Bitchin', but definitely great.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Conehead (5.11b)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Oct 3, 2001

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Comments: Alan, Indeed a little easier going right at the 3rd bolt but not the grade and not as fun. No sense getting on the route if you don't do it how it was intended, and at 11b I would assume it was intended left.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : The Nordwand (5.11b/c)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Oct 3, 2001

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Comments: The first pitch is amazing, hard to believe that routes like this exist naturally. All I can say is Jugs !! The second pitch is not really that enjoyable, although the 'bulge' as mentioned is certainly the crux and continues almost to the anchors. Stay to the left of the bolts towards the top to get to the anchors, or you will get into very dirty rock. The second pitch is a little dirty to start with as well, and watch fromabove if there are people on 'Too'. DEFINENTLY do the first pitch.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Eiger Direct (5.11d)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Oct 2, 2001

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Comments: A truly excellent line, 3 stars. The crux for me was to become almost a deadpoint to bring the right hadnf rom a small sidepull to a chest high crimp. This is not easy, considering how far you are stretched before doing the deadpoint. An awesome move to highlight the route. The roof is quite easy on jugs, not a problem, just get the feet up. As for the ending, I, as I have seen others do, skipped the last bolt, the way the climbing trends brings you above the bolt before you know it, just head o... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Eiffel Tower (5.10d)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Oct 2, 2001

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Comments: Agreed with the 2 star rating this climb gets. I think it is a little more thought provoking than other 10d's many people have done. The steeper slabby climbing involved on the route is very enjoyable. High step not needed if you can figure other beta, but a little more commiting.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Bonehead (5.10c/d)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Oct 2, 2001

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Comments: Definitely not a straightforward, jug haul. Your body will indeed be in many different positions, making clipping sometimes a little tricky. I don't give this route any more than 1 star, didn't enjoy it as much as many, if not all of the other routes on this wall (except the routes around the corner to the left of this route, desperate!).


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Rainy Day Rock : Your Brain on Rain (5.11d)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Oct 2, 2001

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Comments: Agreed, a short route with a good pump, as with the other lines on this little crag. The climbing should be done straight up to the first bolt, perhaps clipping the bolt and then lowering, not doing this I think would avoid the crux. If you do toprope this route, perhaps lower and place a draw on the second bolt, because once past here you should be home free. Dont step on the block to start this route, that would take the fun out of this.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Rainy Day Rock : Swingin' In The Rain (5.11b)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Oct 2, 2001

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Comments: Definitely a nice little boulder problem type route. After the mantle, there are jugs to the top. The mantle can be ommitted as mentioned with heel hook but what fun is that ? (kidding) do it how you can, but at least try the mantle for a second time. A neat line.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Rainy Day Rock : Rainy Day 12A (5.12a)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Oct 2, 2001

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Comments: A great little pump. This route is short and a little harder than it may first appear. The moves are very continuous and the clips are commiting. A ncie sequence of moves leading up the thin corner. The start is varied and can be made easier by traversing in from the left. But start straight up and keep cranking for a good pump.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Blonde Formation : The Blonde Leading Blonde (5.11b/c)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Oct 2, 2001

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Comments: FA Party should read : Fred Knapp and Brett Ruckman - 1991.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Bad Girls Get Spanked (5.11)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Oct 1, 2001

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Comments: Myke, et al., about the 5.11 rating you give this climb: I don't agree with it at all. There is very little chance someone not strong on 11s would get this route on the onsight, which I assume is NOT what you grade routes at. Once you have done the route 30 times, surely it gets easier, but by no means is this 11, a solid 11b, with several 5.11 moves in the mix. As for traversing to the underclings, it surely does ease the climbing, but overal maybe by a letter or 2 at most.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Reefer Madness (5.11a)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 29, 2001

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Comments: A great route, I give it three stars. I think it may be a little bit harder from someone that is shorter than say 5', the crux sidepulls may be very hard to get to and be very balancy, will no doubt be harder than 11a. Next time out, ten digit dialing, looks superb... Cheers


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Centerfold (5.9+)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 29, 2001

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Comments: Peter, I will take the credit about the offwidthing the end. Full body (munes one leg) in that sucker. That is a tight squeeze in there wouldn't suggest it to anyone over 145 lbs. You may get stuck, expecially towards the top. Once you figure out how to get your feet up on the block inside the crack you are set. But good luck, feels a little harder than 5.9 done this way. But a bit of fun, being protected by bolts and all.. Cheers.


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