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Member Since: Jul 27, 2001
Last Visit: May 31, 2006
Contact Jeff Lockyer


Point Rank: # 671
Total Points: 951
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
9 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jeff Lockyer been climbing?










Contributions


All 241 | Routes 79 | Areas 5 | Photos 2 | Page Improvements | Comments 76 | Posts | Stars 79 | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : CG's Naked Fun Time (5.10b)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Jun 10, 2002

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Comments: I have found out that the name of the route should be "CG's Naked Fun Time" and the rating is somewhere around 10b-ish, all depending on line, etc....

J.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Wrinkles in Time (5.8+)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Jun 7, 2002

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Comments: I am not sure where you would need to place a #1 Camalot on this route, or for that matter, any cams at all? This route requires one small nut from the stance atop the flake, that is it. The bolts are in decent clipping positions and the crux between the 3rd and 4th bolt is protected fine. Don't bring all that stuff along for this route, you will end up asking yourself, what was that shit for ? Besides this, not a bad route a little dirty around the 1/2 bolt area, nonetheless fun..

Jeff.... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Energy Before Ecstasy (5.10a/b)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Apr 13, 2002

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Comments: Regarding the bad bolting job ? I am not sure what you would expect ? The bolts do not define 'bad-runouts' by far. The route is also defined in the guide book (Knapp guide) by the name 'Warren's in the House' and rated 10b, as the route which climbs the roof to the left is Energy rated 10c. ?????


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Energy Before Ecstasy (5.10a/b)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Apr 12, 2002

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Comments: The route shown in the pictures is actually "Warren's in the House - 10b' not 'Energy... - 10c' but the last comment remains the same for both of these routes.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Energy Before Ecstasy (5.10a/b)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Apr 12, 2002

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Comments: 2 stars - I don't think so.. This route is pretty much a pile, especially once you have cleared the roof, rock wuality goes downhill very fast. Sure the roof is fun, but really this route is not worth doing IMHO. Don't bother to hike to try to find this one. 1 star would be pushing it.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Whiteman's Burden (5.11c)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Apr 12, 2002

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Comments: This route is sustained climbing and hard to onsight as there are many holds which are just out of the line of sight, but nonetheless worth doing. The start may seem a little hard to the second bolt but 'kneebar' and you have the jug in no time. I personally would skip it but my friend decided to give it a go, pumpy from the ground up.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Are You Experiential? (5.10d)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Apr 12, 2002

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Comments: FA Party : Rick Thompson & Bob D'Antonio, 1999

This route is a pretty fun route, well protected at the crux and a little height dependant but just use the high step and it will be a breeze. The mono to the left may be used for people with little fingers to reach the jug above. Worth doing if you are in that area of the cliff.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : LaCholla Jackson (5.9)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Apr 12, 2002

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Comments: As the book says, this route is '5.8' and very enjoyable for the grade, a great warmup on long good quality rock (except for some things just right of the bolt line towards the top 15 feet) This is for sure a 3 star route and everyone should enjoy climbing 'la-choya'. Climb hard.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Chunky Monkey (5.10c/d)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Apr 12, 2002

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Comments: I guess everyone has decided to up all the grades for the new guide. This route is NOT 10d, it might be as the book says 10b but perhaps not even 10b. This route also does NOT deserve 2 stars ? stupid start (some very loose blocks), no flow to the route once it gets going. This is one of the worst 10s I have climbed at Shelf.


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Bucksnort Slab : Classic Dihedral (5.7)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Apr 5, 2002

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Comments: As Ben mentioned. You will see shredded rope on the way up the crack and you coudl have yourself a mini epic with rope problems on this route. The anchors are placed in a perfect spot to ensure your rope enters the crack at least once after being pulled. Be careful !! This is although a great route for leader breaking into 5.8 leading. The wide stuff at the top could warrant some larger cams (#3 Camalot) for security of the mind. Also, for the top part you DON'T need a big cam, as there is... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Bucksnort Slab : Overlooked (5.9+)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Apr 5, 2002

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Comments: The first little pitch of this route is very enjoyable. As for the second little part, the gear that is mentioned is suspect, unless you go quite a bit left of the bolt and place a large cam under a big flake, which puts you way left of the suggested route. From here I pulled through the 'step' on a loose block (only feature on the step, easily spotted to the left). The bolts mentioned on the slab above, seem to be down to 1 and are plenty far above the step. If you fell from the step it would b... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Rainy Day Rock
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Mar 21, 2002

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Comments: This little crag packs some punch, although as noted these routes are more or less glorified boulder problems, with bad downhill landings. The 3 routes through the middle 13/12/11c are worth the go if you are at Little Eiger and want something to finsih off the day with a kick.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Chockstone (5.10a)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Dec 2, 2001

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Comments: This is a SUPERB route, one of the finest I have done in Eldorado thus far. The crux is very well-protected on very small nuts, RPs. The cross through at the crux is very exciting and esthetic. The climbing is also very fun once this business is over, you may have a little pump but the jams on the upper half of the route are GREAT....

Have fun with this one, it is an excellent route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Purple Haze (5.9)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Dec 2, 2001

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Comments: I think the first pitch of this route could go at 5.7+ perhaps 5.8 if you are no confident on laybacking on the lead, a great bit of fun, except for the rotten band at the top, but altogether a nice route.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 21, 2001

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Comments: I know there are a lot of routes in this area that I have named 'Unknown' but this is because nothing is known about the area from my standpoint and I thought it was a nice little area and felt the need to add it to the site and get more people to this area for it's sheer scenic location if nothing else, this is a great spot for sunny winter afternoons as the gully will gather heat, quite enjoyable. Please feel free to add proper names to any of the routes I have marked as Unknown. Cheers !


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Abandonment (5.8)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 15, 2001

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Comments: This route is called 'Abandonment' and is rated 5.8. You can continue up from the 4th bolt to a higher anchor (bring gear if a new leader) or follow the quartz dike up and left to the anchors shared with previous route. Either way a decent route on easy rock.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : The Minstrel (5.11a)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 15, 2001

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Comments: Walt - The route is called "The Minstrel". As for the previous comment. I am not sure thay anything has broken off, there is a small crimp and the feet can be worked up a little higher perhaps for you to reach the holds just a little bit out of reach before you join back in with Seabreeze. Head back and try it again, just use the higher feet on the slab.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Topless Etiquette (5.8)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 15, 2001

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Comments: This route is quite nice and continuous, not a very defined crux as there are harder sections for shorter/taller folks. A good route to practice footwork, especially for newbies to moderate slab routes. I had fun on this one and only wish it could be longer. Just as easy to use the anchors to the left instead of going through the blocky quartzite ridge.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Splash (5.7)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 15, 2001

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Comments: I only counted 4 bolts, but there are many places for gear in between the bolts. A decent line for a new leader as the bolts are easily supplemented with gear (#0.75 Camalot and smaller). Anchor at top does not have any rap rings placed on it so watch your rope on this one, or just walk off to the right and walk the 50' to the ground.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Lease Agreement (5.10a)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 15, 2001

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Comments: For the length is a very nice line. If only that crack were a bit longer. (like 50 feet or so) Nice hands, just above hand jamming. You must be strict about the top and try to stay in line with the bolts, as the routes on this side of the crag are squeeze jobs. Have fun on this one.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : New Lease on Life (5.9+)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 15, 2001

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Comments: A little bit squeezed, although if you do remain stern and follow the bolt line directly the route has quite nice moves and I would give it a 10+ rating.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Bosch Blanket Bingo (5.9)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 15, 2001

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Comments: Did this route today, it is a little bit of a squeeze job if you don't follow the bolt line. The move at the 4th bolt seems harder than 5.10 straight up, very reachy, without getting into the crack at left. From here, fire straight over the little overhanging section, again very reachy. (Almost dyno for under 5'7".) A decent line, you could lead the whole crack with trad gear for a decent route as well.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Twofers (5.8)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 14, 2001

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Comments: When reaching the roof, place that piece at the lip and then reach up and right over the roof to find the nice jug waiting for you a little hard to spot from the ground and on the lead, but once you find it, the climbing eases for sure. A nice line. (What's with the piton about 2 feet from the top? Weird spot as there are plenty of spots there for good gear? Huh.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Cheers aka Thrill of the Ch... (5.10a)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 14, 2001

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Comments: There most certainly is the 2 bolt anchor just up and above the top-out of the climb, below the actual top of the cliff. This route is quite nice, as most of the others at Happy Hour. Reaching the bolt is a bit of a stretch as indicated but the climbing can be eased by backing down and then getting just below and left of the bolt and following this line, I would say perhaps 10a this way 10b straight up and right of the bolt, as there is a funky foot match and small crimps to pull on. 2 stars.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Grins (5.8)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 14, 2001

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Comments: I agree that this route is a good route to hand jam in but perhaps not to be leading at first, it is easy but not that easy, take one of the routes to the left like Twofers and lead this for practice, but indeed this route has nice hand jams. I would give it 3 stars where you only gave it 2, it is worth 3.


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