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Member Since: Jul 27, 2001
Last Visit: May 31, 2006
Contact Jeff Lockyer


Point Rank: # 612
Total Points: 951
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
9 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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All (241) | Routes (79) | Areas (5) | Photos (2) | Comments (76) | Posts | Stars (79) | Ratings
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : The Nordwand (5.11b/c)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Oct 3, 2001

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Comments: The first pitch is amazing, hard to believe that routes like this exist naturally. All I can say is Jugs !! The second pitch is not really that enjoyable, although the 'bulge' as mentioned is certainly the crux and continues almost to the anchors. Stay to the left of the bolts towards the top to get to the anchors, or you will get into very dirty rock. The second pitch is a little dirty to start with as well, and watch fromabove if there are people on 'Too'. DEFINENTLY do the first pitch.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Eiger Direct (5.11d)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Oct 2, 2001

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Comments: A truly excellent line, 3 stars. The crux for me was to become almost a deadpoint to bring the right hadnf rom a small sidepull to a chest high crimp. This is not easy, considering how far you are stretched before doing the deadpoint. An awesome move to highlight the route. The roof is quite easy on jugs, not a problem, just get the feet up. As for the ending, I, as I have seen others do, skipped the last bolt, the way the climbing trends brings you above the bolt before you know it, just head o... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Eiffel Tower (5.10d)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Oct 2, 2001

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Comments: Agreed with the 2 star rating this climb gets. I think it is a little more thought provoking than other 10d's many people have done. The steeper slabby climbing involved on the route is very enjoyable. High step not needed if you can figure other beta, but a little more commiting.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Bonehead (5.10c/d)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Oct 2, 2001

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Comments: Definitely not a straightforward, jug haul. Your body will indeed be in many different positions, making clipping sometimes a little tricky. I don't give this route any more than 1 star, didn't enjoy it as much as many, if not all of the other routes on this wall (except the routes around the corner to the left of this route, desperate!).


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Rainy Day Rock : Your Brain on Rain (5.11d)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Oct 2, 2001

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Comments: Agreed, a short route with a good pump, as with the other lines on this little crag. The climbing should be done straight up to the first bolt, perhaps clipping the bolt and then lowering, not doing this I think would avoid the crux. If you do toprope this route, perhaps lower and place a draw on the second bolt, because once past here you should be home free. Dont step on the block to start this route, that would take the fun out of this.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Rainy Day Rock : Swingin' In The Rain (5.11b)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Oct 2, 2001

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Comments: Definitely a nice little boulder problem type route. After the mantle, there are jugs to the top. The mantle can be ommitted as mentioned with heel hook but what fun is that ? (kidding) do it how you can, but at least try the mantle for a second time. A neat line.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Rainy Day Rock : Rainy Day 12A (5.12a)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Oct 2, 2001

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Comments: A great little pump. This route is short and a little harder than it may first appear. The moves are very continuous and the clips are commiting. A ncie sequence of moves leading up the thin corner. The start is varied and can be made easier by traversing in from the left. But start straight up and keep cranking for a good pump.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Blonde Formation : The Blonde Leading Blonde (5.11b/c)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Oct 2, 2001

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Comments: FA Party should read : Fred Knapp and Brett Ruckman - 1991.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Bad Girls Get Spanked (5.11)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Oct 1, 2001

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Comments: Myke, et al., about the 5.11 rating you give this climb: I don't agree with it at all. There is very little chance someone not strong on 11s would get this route on the onsight, which I assume is NOT what you grade routes at. Once you have done the route 30 times, surely it gets easier, but by no means is this 11, a solid 11b, with several 5.11 moves in the mix. As for traversing to the underclings, it surely does ease the climbing, but overal maybe by a letter or 2 at most.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Reefer Madness (5.11a)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 29, 2001

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Comments: A great route, I give it three stars. I think it may be a little bit harder from someone that is shorter than say 5', the crux sidepulls may be very hard to get to and be very balancy, will no doubt be harder than 11a. Next time out, ten digit dialing, looks superb... Cheers


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Centerfold (5.9+)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 29, 2001

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Comments: Peter, I will take the credit about the offwidthing the end. Full body (munes one leg) in that sucker. That is a tight squeeze in there wouldn't suggest it to anyone over 145 lbs. You may get stuck, expecially towards the top. Once you figure out how to get your feet up on the block inside the crack you are set. But good luck, feels a little harder than 5.9 done this way. But a bit of fun, being protected by bolts and all.. Cheers.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Qs (5.9+)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 25, 2001

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Comments: A really grat route, although I am not sure why the nostalgic anchors are still in place, those are scary. This route has a SUPERB photo-op on a beautiful sunny day, blue sky behind the arete looking down the canyon around the 4th bolt. A beauty..... Enjoy.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Coney Island : Fly Swatter (5.10c)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 25, 2001

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Comments: Peter, I just came back to this crag to see if there were any additions to the site. Noticed your comment and thought you may share with us some other worse routes than this. I have yet to come across one sport climbing in the canyon, at least compared to the other 50-60 routes I have done here. Seriously.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Antagonism (5.12a/b)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 25, 2001

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Comments: This is a great route. The crux is very well defined and you know to save the juice for this part. It is indeed height dependant, as some people may be able to reach and pull down on the upper crimp a lot easier, but there is always the tricky feet. Just paste them high and pull down as suggested.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : ArÍte (5.10d)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 25, 2001

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Comments: A good route, did it awhile back. I can't justify the 10d rating but would give it 10b/c, if you are using the holds all over the left face perhaps the route is 10a, but being an arete and doing the route keeping this in mind I think the rating stands. The proper name of the route, just for bookkeeping sakes is "Sunshine Arete".


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Wessel in the Chicken Coop (5.9)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 25, 2001

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Comments: Perhaps the key to making this climb a little easier, is the zig zagging as stated above. I think if you keep to the bolt line the route is enjoyable and the holds will be a little more slopey than the others to the left and right. I guess it could be considered an elimination kind of route, but either way have fun with this one. A good warm up with the route directly left, then continue around the corner.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : The Big Dipper (5.11a)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 25, 2001

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Comments: An enjoyable route, although it doesn't look very promising from the ground. The holds are large and the angle is steeper than it looks, if there was no bat shit all over the route, it would be much nicer, but a great line dispite all of this.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : Green Slab Direct (5.9)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 25, 2001

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Comments: Thanks for the now fixed piece. We enjoyed clipping it today. At the point where the fixed pin is supposed to be, didnt find that ? I guess we got to the dissipating crack and then went left and up, just right of the arete to belay at the dead tree, a long pitch at approx. 180' feet from where we started, the description is not one of Rossiter's best. If doing it again, just trust the gear, now well below your feet and continue up to easier ground from the fixed piece. A decent route altogether ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Clock Tower : ... : Chicken Hawk (5.9)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 23, 2001

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Comments: I agree about the rating. But you must always think of the grading issues at 'The Sport Park' when you go up there. Many of the routes are a little overgraded. Perhaps this route could be 8+.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Second Buttress : Tough Situation (5.9+)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 20, 2001

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Comments: An excellent line. The feet really are not as good as they may appear from below. I think this route is about mid 5.10 perhaps a/b. Also a better approach than coming up the gully is just as the second buttress starts you will see crack going over a little bulge, layback this crack (a little dirty on feet) and approach the base of the route via a flake that runs just left of an arete and then up a slab. I give this line 2 stars and the Tough Situation 3 stars.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Recovery Room : Blackout (5.12b)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 18, 2001

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Comments: A great bouldery route with 4 bolts along the way. The route is very straight forward, if the holds are not chalked just think of how a crimpy route would be set in the gym, and you will find the holds, with some reachy moves for shorter (under 5'7") folks. A decent route, I would give it 2 stars. Worth doing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Recovery Room : Coffee Pot Crack (5.11b)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 18, 2001

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Comments: A decent route although the manufactured jug above the 3rd bolt is a bit of overkill. Seriously, did they need something for 2 hands ? A bit of a let down, but if you are here and want a quick clip-up, go nuts, watch the bat shit at the bottom, it may be slick.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Visor : Flying Machines (5.11c)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 18, 2001

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Comments: I agree with the last comment, it would be nice to see what this route was like a couple years ago. An enjoyable "comfortized" route, with nice jugs the whole way. The bottom may be more of a dyno-like sequence for shorter people, but from here haul away. Perhaps the grade is a little much, as stated before. But a good bit of fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : The Visor : Absolute Boulder Canyon (5.11b)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 18, 2001

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Comments: Not a bad route although overbolted a little much. The first move is a little height dependant, but being 5'8" just meant you made one other move, nothing harder than 11b. The top of the route can be eased with a right hand reaching far inside the crack, feet high and a great layback undercling, you can almost reach anchors from here, just move up the crack. A decent little route with no obvious manufactured holds ? 1 star.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Easter Rock : Coloradoddity (5.10c)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Sep 17, 2001

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Comments: Alan, do you know why these routes were not included in the sporting climbers guide book for boulder canyon, as they do not seem to be THAT new. The grading thing is debatable I guess. I dont think the route could go much harder than say 10d, especially if the rock was clean. It would make a big difference.


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