Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: Jul 27, 2001
Last Visit: May 31, 2006
Contact Jeff Lockyer


Point Rank: # 676
Total Points: 951
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
9 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jeff Lockyer been climbing?










Contributions


All 241 | Routes 79 | Areas 5 | Photos 2 | Page Improvements | Comments 76 | Posts | Stars 79 | Ratings
Page 5 of 10.  <<First   <Prev   3  4  5  6  7   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 21, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: I know there are a lot of routes in this area that I have named 'Unknown' but this is because nothing is known about the area from my standpoint and I thought it was a nice little area and felt the need to add it to the site and get more people to this area for it's sheer scenic location if nothing else, this is a great spot for sunny winter afternoons as the gully will gather heat, quite enjoyable. Please feel free to add proper names to any of the routes I have marked as Unknown. Cheers !


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Abandonment (5.8)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 15, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: This route is called 'Abandonment' and is rated 5.8. You can continue up from the 4th bolt to a higher anchor (bring gear if a new leader) or follow the quartz dike up and left to the anchors shared with previous route. Either way a decent route on easy rock.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : The Minstrel (5.11a)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 15, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Walt - The route is called "The Minstrel". As for the previous comment. I am not sure thay anything has broken off, there is a small crimp and the feet can be worked up a little higher perhaps for you to reach the holds just a little bit out of reach before you join back in with Seabreeze. Head back and try it again, just use the higher feet on the slab.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Topless Etiquette (5.8)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 15, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: This route is quite nice and continuous, not a very defined crux as there are harder sections for shorter/taller folks. A good route to practice footwork, especially for newbies to moderate slab routes. I had fun on this one and only wish it could be longer. Just as easy to use the anchors to the left instead of going through the blocky quartzite ridge.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Splash (5.7)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 15, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: I only counted 4 bolts, but there are many places for gear in between the bolts. A decent line for a new leader as the bolts are easily supplemented with gear (#0.75 Camalot and smaller). Anchor at top does not have any rap rings placed on it so watch your rope on this one, or just walk off to the right and walk the 50' to the ground.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Lease Agreement (5.10a)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 15, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: For the length is a very nice line. If only that crack were a bit longer. (like 50 feet or so) Nice hands, just above hand jamming. You must be strict about the top and try to stay in line with the bolts, as the routes on this side of the crag are squeeze jobs. Have fun on this one.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : New Lease on Life (5.9+)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 15, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: A little bit squeezed, although if you do remain stern and follow the bolt line directly the route has quite nice moves and I would give it a 10+ rating.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Bosch Blanket Bingo (5.9)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 15, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Did this route today, it is a little bit of a squeeze job if you don't follow the bolt line. The move at the 4th bolt seems harder than 5.10 straight up, very reachy, without getting into the crack at left. From here, fire straight over the little overhanging section, again very reachy. (Almost dyno for under 5'7".) A decent line, you could lead the whole crack with trad gear for a decent route as well.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Twofers (5.8)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 14, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: When reaching the roof, place that piece at the lip and then reach up and right over the roof to find the nice jug waiting for you a little hard to spot from the ground and on the lead, but once you find it, the climbing eases for sure. A nice line. (What's with the piton about 2 feet from the top? Weird spot as there are plenty of spots there for good gear? Huh.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Cheers aka Thrill of the Ch... (5.10a)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 14, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: There most certainly is the 2 bolt anchor just up and above the top-out of the climb, below the actual top of the cliff. This route is quite nice, as most of the others at Happy Hour. Reaching the bolt is a bit of a stretch as indicated but the climbing can be eased by backing down and then getting just below and left of the bolt and following this line, I would say perhaps 10a this way 10b straight up and right of the bolt, as there is a funky foot match and small crimps to pull on. 2 stars.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Grins (5.8)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 14, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: I agree that this route is a good route to hand jam in but perhaps not to be leading at first, it is easy but not that easy, take one of the routes to the left like Twofers and lead this for practice, but indeed this route has nice hand jams. I would give it 3 stars where you only gave it 2, it is worth 3.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Nightcap (5.9)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 14, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: I agree with the 3 stars for sure. The 5.9 section is very short indeed, also you dont need to build an anchor if you just run your rope back a little to a tree up and left and belay from here. You can scramble down and right to get to the anchors for 'grins' and rappell or downclimb. A very enjoyable route with a mix of everything. Enjoy..


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Dementia (5.10a)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 14, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: A very impressive route and a solid 10a for sure. Nuts protect the crux as well as TCU's so pop em' in there and crank. A really good character building lead for the ambitious 5.10 leaders in the group, I would say the best route at Happy Hour and a very stiff lead, enjoyed it a lot ! 5 stars on a 3 star rating.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 13, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Awesome - Anyone know how long you can climb at Long's in the winter ? Are there any ice routes on this peak? Or just to it's left?


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - W Face : Blind Faith (5.10a)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 5, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: A lot of bickering over such a short route. My take on the situation is this, the first pitch of the route is very very nice and gives a surprising pump at the crux. Hopefully you can reach high enough to place that piece before committing to the crux. (especially if this is your first 10 lead). Pull down on the hueco and left hand jam, throw the right foot up high and DON'T look straight up for something positive, the good holds are to the left of the little roof two parallel crimps which can g... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - S Buttress : The Flakes (5.9)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 5, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: A really nice route but be careful of rope drag once you turn the little roof to the right, I made a little mistake a therefore couldnt clip the pitons, not a big deal because of bolt 6 feet higher. May want to protect the second after the bolt if he/she is not quite at 5.9 as there would be a good swing. Gear is tricky on the upper half once you turn the roof but the climbing eases off. I would give it ** and not ***. C'st la Morte is a better route, albeit a bit harder. Ciao....


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Werk Supp (5.9)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 5, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: An Awesome line.. A little bit of everything, jamfest on P2, good fingers on P1, great length on P1. A really superb route. Good grading as well, P2 deserves more credit than it gets, it is a character builder once you get on it. Jump in !!


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Below Lower Ram... : Mr. Natural (5.8+)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 4, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: A great route. This route certainly can give you a pump if you fiddle with gear, all of the gear placements are great so keep climbing. Have fun with this one, a great warmup if you are doing Yellow Spur or anything higher up, Gma's, Darkness, etc..


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part D - Xanad... : Positively Fourth Street (5.10a)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 3, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Not sure what they were thinking when they rated this 10a ? I [don't] think anyway you do this, unless you [do it one-armed], it can even touch a 10 rating. The rating seems very out of place for [Eldorado], as most of the 10s I have been on have been pretty hard, but not in this case, if you are a 5.8 leader looking to get into 5.9's with good gear, hop on this one. Have fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Morning Thunder (5.9+)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Nov 3, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: O.K. I have some issues about the rating thing here on west ridge. First we say that Pos. 4th is 10a ? Hmm, well I guess not. Then we say that 'Morning Thunder', which is more sustained than 'Pos. 4th' albeit short. I give Pos. maybe 5.9 and Morning Thunder 5.10a and as far as the #1 cam goes, leave it on the ground where it can be used for the belayer out to the right for a ground anchor point. Cheers..


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Rose Cliff : Sticks and Stone May Break ... (5.9+)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Oct 16, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: I would agree with the description of the route and the quality, this is a great crack climb and very defined, there is also another gear route a little further down the crag to the right form here which looks like a beauty.. Good crack climbs on limestone, what ? Not a mistake this is a great line.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Suspender Man (5.11)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Oct 12, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Don't let the rating Matt has palced on here fool you. It is harder than 5.11, I think it is solid 11c/d as the guide book states, an excellent route which is steeper than is looks from the ground. One of my favorites in the Dark Side. 3 Stars.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Free Willie (5.11a)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Oct 4, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: An excellent route for those of us 5'8" and taller. The reach past the 4th clip may almost be a dyno for some, but once past here the last moves will flow together. You can cut right at the matle or reach high for the chalked hold straight above to the left, have fun. I give this route 3 stars.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Animation aka Jaycene's Dan... (5.8)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Oct 4, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: A great route. This route has plenty of holds as suggested. The length also adds to the enjoyment of the route. This is certainly a great warm up for the others on this crag. I would suggest 'Free Willie' and the 12a that you first see when you arrive from the left of the crag, a beauty. This is a super route for a new leader, not sure how to interpret 'Turbo Bitchin', but definitely great.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Conehead (5.11b)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Oct 3, 2001

view comment >>
Comments: Alan, Indeed a little easier going right at the 3rd bolt but not the grade and not as fun. No sense getting on the route if you don't do it how it was intended, and at 11b I would assume it was intended left.


Page 5 of 10.  <<First   <Prev   3  4  5  6  7   Next>   Last>>