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Member Since: Jul 27, 2001
Last Visit: May 31, 2006
Contact Jeff Lockyer


Point Rank: # 640
Total Points: 951
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
9 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jeff Lockyer been climbing?










Contributions


All 241 | Routes 79 | Areas 5 | Photos 2 | Page Improvments | Comments 76 | Posts | Stars 79 | Ratings
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Contributed Routes

Name Rating Type Location Date

That Flakes It

V? (13)

Boulder

CO : Boulder : ... : Nook's Rock

Jul 27, 2001

South Face

V0 4 (10)

Boulder

CO : Boulder : ... : Nook's Rock

Jul 27, 2001

Wimpie's Revenge

V0 4 (4)

Boulder

CO : Boulder : ... : Nook's Rock

Jul 27, 2001

Westside Traverse

V5 6C (2)

Boulder

CO : Boulder : ... : Nook's Rock

Jul 27, 2001

Contributed Areas

Name Location Date

Spiney Ridge

CO : Shelf Road

Apr 12, 2002

Jurassic Park - Lily Lake

CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries

Dec 28, 2001

Cactus Rose Cliff

CO : Shelf Road

Oct 12, 2001

Truth or Consequences Crag aka Inca Stone

CO : Boulder Canyon

Sep 17, 2001

The Blonde Formation

CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon

Dec 31, 1969

Contributed Photos

Photo Caption Location Date
Jeff about to pull the crux move - sorry for the resolution :(

Jeff about to pull the crux move - sorry for the resolution :(

CO : Boulder : ... : Hagan's Wall (V4-5)

Nov 9, 2001

Chris Lockyer leading the route - at the dihedral section

Chris Lockyer leading the route - at the dihedral section

CO : Golden : ... : First Impressions (5.9)

Nov 9, 2001

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : CG's Naked Fun Time (5.10b)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Jun 10, 2002

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Comments: I have found out that the name of the route should be "CG's Naked Fun Time" and the rating is somewhere around 10b-ish, all depending on line, etc....

J.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Dream Dome : Wrinkles in Time (5.8+)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Jun 7, 2002

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Comments: I am not sure where you would need to place a #1 Camalot on this route, or for that matter, any cams at all? This route requires one small nut from the stance atop the flake, that is it. The bolts are in decent clipping positions and the crux between the 3rd and 4th bolt is protected fine. Don't bring all that stuff along for this route, you will end up asking yourself, what was that shit for ? Besides this, not a bad route a little dirty around the 1/2 bolt area, nonetheless fun..

Jeff.... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Energy Before Ecstasy (5.10a/b)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Apr 13, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: Regarding the bad bolting job ? I am not sure what you would expect ? The bolts do not define 'bad-runouts' by far. The route is also defined in the guide book (Knapp guide) by the name 'Warren's in the House' and rated 10b, as the route which climbs the roof to the left is Energy rated 10c. ?????


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Energy Before Ecstasy (5.10a/b)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Apr 12, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: The route shown in the pictures is actually "Warren's in the House - 10b' not 'Energy... - 10c' but the last comment remains the same for both of these routes.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Energy Before Ecstasy (5.10a/b)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Apr 12, 2002

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Comments: 2 stars - I don't think so.. This route is pretty much a pile, especially once you have cleared the roof, rock wuality goes downhill very fast. Sure the roof is fun, but really this route is not worth doing IMHO. Don't bother to hike to try to find this one. 1 star would be pushing it.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Whiteman's Burden (5.11c)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Apr 12, 2002

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Comments: This route is sustained climbing and hard to onsight as there are many holds which are just out of the line of sight, but nonetheless worth doing. The start may seem a little hard to the second bolt but 'kneebar' and you have the jug in no time. I personally would skip it but my friend decided to give it a go, pumpy from the ground up.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Are You Experiential? (5.10d)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Apr 12, 2002

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Comments: FA Party : Rick Thompson & Bob D'Antonio, 1999

This route is a pretty fun route, well protected at the crux and a little height dependant but just use the high step and it will be a breeze. The mono to the left may be used for people with little fingers to reach the jug above. Worth doing if you are in that area of the cliff.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : LaCholla Jackson (5.9)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Apr 12, 2002

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Comments: As the book says, this route is '5.8' and very enjoyable for the grade, a great warmup on long good quality rock (except for some things just right of the bolt line towards the top 15 feet) This is for sure a 3 star route and everyone should enjoy climbing 'la-choya'. Climb hard.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Chunky Monkey (5.10c/d)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Apr 12, 2002

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Comments: I guess everyone has decided to up all the grades for the new guide. This route is NOT 10d, it might be as the book says 10b but perhaps not even 10b. This route also does NOT deserve 2 stars ? stupid start (some very loose blocks), no flow to the route once it gets going. This is one of the worst 10s I have climbed at Shelf.


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Bucksnort Slab : Classic Dihedral (5.7)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Apr 5, 2002

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Comments: As Ben mentioned. You will see shredded rope on the way up the crack and you coudl have yourself a mini epic with rope problems on this route. The anchors are placed in a perfect spot to ensure your rope enters the crack at least once after being pulled. Be careful !! This is although a great route for leader breaking into 5.8 leading. The wide stuff at the top could warrant some larger cams (#3 Camalot) for security of the mind. Also, for the top part you DON'T need a big cam, as there is... more >>


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Bucksnort Slab : Overlooked (5.9+)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Apr 5, 2002

view comment >>
Comments: The first little pitch of this route is very enjoyable. As for the second little part, the gear that is mentioned is suspect, unless you go quite a bit left of the bolt and place a large cam under a big flake, which puts you way left of the suggested route. From here I pulled through the 'step' on a loose block (only feature on the step, easily spotted to the left). The bolts mentioned on the slab above, seem to be down to 1 and are plenty far above the step. If you fell from the step it would b... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Rainy Day Rock
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Mar 21, 2002

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Comments: This little crag packs some punch, although as noted these routes are more or less glorified boulder problems, with bad downhill landings. The 3 routes through the middle 13/12/11c are worth the go if you are at Little Eiger and want something to finsih off the day with a kick.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Chockstone (5.10a)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Dec 2, 2001

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Comments: This is a SUPERB route, one of the finest I have done in Eldorado thus far. The crux is very well-protected on very small nuts, RPs. The cross through at the crux is very exciting and esthetic. The climbing is also very fun once this business is over, you may have a little pump but the jams on the upper half of the route are GREAT....

Have fun with this one, it is an excellent route.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Purple Haze (5.9)
By: Jeff Lockyer When: Dec 2, 2001

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Comments: I think the first pitch of this route could go at 5.7+ perhaps 5.8 if you are no confident on laybacking on the lead, a great bit of fun, except for the rotten band at the top, but altogether a nice route.


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