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Location: CA : Tahquitz & Suicide Rocks : Suicide Rock : Buttress of Cracks : Buttress of Cracks - Left S... : Insomnia (5.11b)
By: Jeff Gicklhorn When: Aug 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't get sandbagged, this is the real deal! Best crack in Idyllwild!
If confident at the grade, all you need it double from .5-2 BD with maybe 8 runners. As of today, two fixed pieces at the crux.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Williams/ Sycamore Canyon A... : Paradise Forks : Pillow Wall : Davidson Dihedral (5.11+)
By: Jeff Gicklhorn When: Jun 18, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great pitch, too bad the crux is so short! Chuck's OS rack was spot on, well protected the whole way, might bring one extra 0.3BD. Definitely easier (for me) than Mutiny, no question there (1 move crux vs. ~15ft on Mutiny), but both are four star routes for sure!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Alcohol Wall : Mai Tai (5.10+ R)
By: Jeff Gicklhorn When: Jun 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree with everyone, definitely not R rated. Good climbing and great rock, I just wish that the crux was more than one move!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : Alcohol Wall : Straight Shot (5.11d)
By: Jeff Gicklhorn When: Jun 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best route on the wall IMO if you climb the grade. Go for the onsight, it's strenuous and pretty wild, but the gear is great.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Winslow/ Clint's Well Areas : Winslow Wall : West Side : The Hanging Judge (5.12a)
By: Jeff Gicklhorn When: May 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Absolutely stellar pitch! Can easily lower back to the ledge with a 60m rope, or to the ground with a 70m.
For the rack, I would recommend small to medium nuts, a few micro-cams to purple Metolius, triples of fingers, four .5s, and a few .75-1s.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Tuolumne Meadows : Mariuolumne Dome : Main Wall : Hobbit Book (5.7)
By: Jeff Gicklhorn When: Jul 29, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Should be rated PG13, not R. On the third pitch, you can sling plates every 20ft after the bolt until you move back into the corner. All the climbing is secure and the patina is simply amazing!
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Location: CA : San Diego County : Mount Woodson : Robbins Boulder : Robbins Crack (5.10a) : Photo
By: Jeff Gicklhorn When: Jan 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sick Mark
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Apron Jam (5.9)
By: Jeff Gicklhorn When: Nov 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agree with the above comment. Good climb on clean rock. Make sure to bring a BD #4 and #5 if you don't want to run it out.
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Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Glacier Point Apron : Mr. Natural (5.10+)
By: Jeff Gicklhorn When: Nov 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Literally the best finger crack I've ever done! Awesome.
As of Sept. 2010, the anchors are shiny and brand new. Thanks to whatever good soul replaced those.
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