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Rock Climbing Photo: Caution: dirtbags.


Member Since: Aug 4, 2012
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Jeff Edge

Point Rank: # 1,240
Total Points: 583
Last Year: 235
Last 30 Days: 0
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jeff Edge been climbing?










Contributions


All 607 | Routes 37 | Areas 7 | Photos 4 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 85 | Posts 14 | Stars 420 | Ratings 39
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : South Clear Creek : The Balcony : Undertow (5.12a)
By: Jeff Edge When: Dec 22, 2015

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Comments: Bolt missing alert:
The second to last bolt and hanger are missing on this route, you can see where it used to be, but it's broken off at the rock.

It is pretty easy and safe to just reach right and clip a bolt on the next route, then reach back left to the final Undertow bolt, but you have to skip part of this route to do it.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Fairway : Face To Face (5.11d)
By: Jeff Edge When: Nov 26, 2015

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Comments: Another +1 for Susan's crux-hang beta, was super helpful for my onsight flash.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Matzoland (5.12a)
By: Jeff Edge When: Nov 25, 2015

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Comments: Death block alert!!! The huge block after the 4th(?) bolt is going to fall on whoever touches it next! It rocks from the top about 4 inches. I drew 3 big X's on it. It's easily 100+ lbs and would definitely kill you and/or your belayer.

Also on my way up I pulled off a big block right around the 3rd bolt that was a pretty important hold. It came off when I barely touched it. Upon inspection, it appears to have been held on by some lichen or something. You can see it sitting at the base.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Handcracker Direct (5.10a)
By: Jeff Edge When: Nov 11, 2015

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Comments: There's 1 fixed cam on pitch one, so I think that pretty much makes this a sport route by Eldo standards, right?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : The Nose (5.9 C2) : Photo
By: Jeff Edge When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: Hey! That's me! Thanks Tom!
I was having trouble making it over because Garrett left my end of the rope in the crack on the wrong side of the boot.


Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Emperor Wall
By: Jeff Edge When: Oct 31, 2015

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Comments: This is called the "Dynasty Wall" in the new guidebook


Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Royal Arch Wall : Umbrella Girls (5.12a)
By: Jeff Edge When: Oct 27, 2015

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Comments: This route is listed as part of the "Snakes Roof" area in the new guidebook.


Location: IL : Jackson Falls : La Haceinda
By: Jeff Edge When: Oct 27, 2015

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Comments: routes here are mega-dirty right now, starting the routes requires some unconventional techniques. As such, this makes for an exciting day of adventure-sport climbing. Might become good routes with some traffic, but as for now the fact that you have to scrape the moss off the holds makes it a bit of a frustrating experience. Also spiderwebs, and pockets full of acorns. Interesting.


Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Belleville Wall : Lying Back with Ellie Mae (5.9)
By: Jeff Edge When: Oct 22, 2015

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Comments: Awesome, thanks. Fixed it.


Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Town Square : Dances With Sharks (5.11a/b)
By: Jeff Edge When: Oct 21, 2015

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Comments: +1 for unique movement at Jackson. And a pretty unique feature too. Found the holds to be strangely wet and a little muddy, despite there having been no rain in quite some time, but still a good time.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Easy Street : Hippie Chick (5.10c)
By: Jeff Edge When: Apr 10, 2015

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Comments: assuming i was on the route described, i think the rock is much better now. been a few years since the last comments


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Easy Street : Rockhopper (5.7)
By: Jeff Edge When: Apr 10, 2015

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Comments: rocks not so bad anymore..still looser holds than the neighboring routes though


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : North Shore Boulders : ... : Route 5 (V2)
By: Jeff Edge When: Dec 11, 2014

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Comments: this was a fun one, not over immediately either.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : North Shore Boulders : The Gardens
By: Jeff Edge When: Dec 11, 2014

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Comments: Had a great time exploring here today, thanks for posting the area. You can find boulders in sun or shade, if one was so concerned. Watch out for broken glass on the ground.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear South : Fisherman's Buttress Area : ... : Stanley-Slip Bobber (5.11a)
By: Jeff Edge When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: That crimp might've gotten softer because I thought the crux was not too hard and kinda fun, and the crimp none too sharp. +1 for sweet moves leading up to it.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Loose Women, Loose Rock (5.9+)
By: Jeff Edge When: Nov 29, 2014

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Comments: Definitely tough, think I only counted 2 or 3 bolts though + anchors. Funky moves in the pockets, but kinda cool. Would be a little scared of leading on gear due to the rock quality though.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Far Beyond Driven (5.10b)
By: Jeff Edge When: Nov 29, 2014

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Comments: No I've done those ones too! There's another route that shares the start with this one. Then to the right is a crack which leads to some funky pockets then to bolts (Loose women, Loose rock, I presume). Then up some boulders to the right is that first 5.8 of Tombstone pit. Might be pretty new?


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Unforgiven (5.11b)
By: Jeff Edge When: Nov 29, 2014

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Comments: +1 for staying left of the bush, fun route. Crux feels pretty fair at 11b since its *so* short, even if it is a tricky 1.5 moves! Compared to Mad Season for example which is a lot more sustained at the grade.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Quick on the Draw (5.11a)
By: Jeff Edge When: Nov 29, 2014

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Comments: Thought the slab down low was pretty fun! Big ledge is kinda weird, but top is fun again. I could see 10d for the bottom or sure, but not a ton of routes quite like this in the area so I guess its hard to say.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Good Day for a Hangin' (5.10d)
By: Jeff Edge When: Nov 29, 2014

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Comments: Really just a one-move crux but is totally worth doing!! The "jug" you throw from doesn't feel as good as you'd like, but just go for it you'll be fine.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Stake Your Claim (5.10d)
By: Jeff Edge When: Nov 29, 2014

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Comments: So much fun! One of the most engaging routes at Holcomb I think. Thought the end was pretty hard though since you're climbing on a bunch of steep crimps and all


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Highgrader (5.11a)
By: Jeff Edge When: Nov 29, 2014

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Comments: Many options at the crux, start as low and right as you possibly can for more 5.11 value. Fun route! would recommend to anyone, if you can do the 10d to the right this shouldn't be too much trouble.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Dust in the Wind (5.4)
By: Jeff Edge When: Nov 29, 2014

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Comments: If Psychedelic Sluice is 5.6, the start of this is probably 5.6 too. But you could also probably call them both 5.5, either way they seem about the same difficulty to me at the "crux."


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Out of Our Mines (5.10d)
By: Jeff Edge When: Nov 29, 2014

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Comments: Started with my left hand on the good sidepull to the left of the first bolt, and right food on the 2nd foot-edge over from the left, so my head was pretty much at or a little to the left of the first bolt when I stepped on. Then you traverse right, tricky! Just commit to the holds and you'll be fine. Kinda fun once you're doing it.

Probably not too much harder than 11b, probably no easier than 11a. Thought it was on par with Highgrader (maybe a little harder?), and harder than Long Arm albeit ... more >>


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Long Arm of The Law (5.11a)
By: Jeff Edge When: Nov 29, 2014

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Comments: Going straight up the bolt line is a lot of fun and definitely no harder than 11a, if the undercling/balance hold (at the bottom of the first jug rail off the ledge) feels too far away try re-positioning your feet, you'd be amazed how much farther you can stand up down there. Super fun crux.


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