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Rock Climbing Photo: Caution: dirtbags.


Member Since: Aug 4, 2012
Last Visit: 2 days ago
Contact Jeff Edge

Point Rank: # 695
Total Points: 1,087
Last Year: 737
Last 30 Days: 41
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jeff Edge been climbing?










Contributions


All 727 | Routes 74 | Areas 7 | Photos 30 | Page Improvements 1 | Comments 89 | Posts 20 | Stars 467 | Ratings 39
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: OR : Central Oregon : Power Lines
By: Jeff Edge When: 3 days ago

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Comments: Note on the approach info: once you turn onto Jack Pine Spring road you have to drive a considerable distance (several miles, if I remember correctly) before you reach the parking for power lines. Use the GPS coordinates provided to help you find it. I think you can see the power lines from the road, but I'm not sure.

Also if anyone is interested, it is also possible to approach from the opposite side of the creek. There is a nice spot to wade across 100 yard upstream from the crag. This cuts o... more >>


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Power Lines
By: Jeff Edge When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: I also would love to see a topo for power lines, interested to know how hard other people think the routes are


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Meadow Camp : Awesome Arete (5.11a)
By: Jeff Edge When: Feb 26, 2016

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Comments: Yeah that actually sounds about right to me, 10c was probably a bit of a sandbag for even the easier way so I changed it.


Location: OR : Central Oregon : Meadow Camp
By: Jeff Edge When: Feb 26, 2016

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Comments: Really pleasant setting for climbing here.

I added all the routes that were already listed on RC.com here, using the names the people there gave them. The routes that weren't listed there, I added generally just using basic descriptive names. Hopefully somebody will have actual names to contribute.


Location: TN : Obed & Clear Creek : South Clear Creek : The Balcony : Undertow (5.12a)
By: Jeff Edge When: Dec 22, 2015

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Comments: Bolt missing alert:
The second to last bolt and hanger are missing on this route, you can see where it used to be, but it's broken off at the rock.

It is pretty easy and safe to just reach right and clip a bolt on the next route, then reach back left to the final Undertow bolt, but you have to skip part of this route to do it.


Location: CA : High Desert : New Jack City : Box Canyon East : Fairway : Face To Face (5.11d)
By: Jeff Edge When: Nov 26, 2015

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Comments: Another +1 for Susan's crux-hang beta, was super helpful for my onsight flash.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Whiskey Peak : Matzoland (5.12a)
By: Jeff Edge When: Nov 25, 2015

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Comments: Death block alert!!! The huge block after the 4th(?) bolt is going to fall on whoever touches it next! It rocks from the top about 4 inches. I drew 3 big X's on it. It's easily 100+ lbs and would definitely kill you and/or your belayer.

Also on my way up I pulled off a big block right around the 3rd bolt that was a pretty important hold. It came off when I barely touched it. Upon inspection, it appears to have been held on by some lichen or something. You can see it sitting at the base.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part C - Pony ... : Handcracker Direct (5.10a)
By: Jeff Edge When: Nov 11, 2015

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Comments: There's 1 fixed cam on pitch one, so I think that pretty much makes this a sport route by Eldo standards, right?


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : El Capitan : The Nose (5.9 C2) : Photo
By: Jeff Edge When: Nov 2, 2015

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Comments: Hey! That's me! Thanks Tom!
I was having trouble making it over because Garrett left my end of the rope in the crack on the wrong side of the boot.


Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Emperor Wall
By: Jeff Edge When: Oct 31, 2015

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Comments: This is called the "Dynasty Wall" in the new guidebook


Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Royal Arch Wall : Umbrella Girls (5.12a)
By: Jeff Edge When: Oct 27, 2015

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Comments: This route is listed as part of the "Snakes Roof" area in the new guidebook.


Location: IL : Jackson Falls : La Haceinda
By: Jeff Edge When: Oct 27, 2015

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Comments: routes here are mega-dirty right now, starting the routes requires some unconventional techniques. As such, this makes for an exciting day of adventure-sport climbing. Might become good routes with some traffic, but as for now the fact that you have to scrape the moss off the holds makes it a bit of a frustrating experience. Also spiderwebs, and pockets full of acorns. Interesting.


Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Belleville Wall : Lying Back with Ellie Mae (5.9)
By: Jeff Edge When: Oct 22, 2015

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Comments: Awesome, thanks. Fixed it.


Location: IL : Jackson Falls : Town Square : Dances With Sharks (5.11a/b)
By: Jeff Edge When: Oct 21, 2015

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Comments: +1 for unique movement at Jackson. And a pretty unique feature too. Found the holds to be strangely wet and a little muddy, despite there having been no rain in quite some time, but still a good time.


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Easy Street : Hippie Chick (5.10c)
By: Jeff Edge When: Apr 10, 2015

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Comments: assuming i was on the route described, i think the rock is much better now. been a few years since the last comments


Location: CA : Los Angeles Basin : Santa Monica Mountains : Echo Cliffs : Easy Street : Rockhopper (5.7)
By: Jeff Edge When: Apr 10, 2015

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Comments: rocks not so bad anymore..still looser holds than the neighboring routes though


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : North Shore Boulders : ... : Route 5 (V2)
By: Jeff Edge When: Dec 11, 2014

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Comments: this was a fun one, not over immediately either.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : North Shore Boulders : The Gardens
By: Jeff Edge When: Dec 11, 2014

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Comments: Had a great time exploring here today, thanks for posting the area. You can find boulders in sun or shade, if one was so concerned. Watch out for broken glass on the ground.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear South : Fisherman's Buttress Area : ... : Stanley-Slip Bobber (5.11a)
By: Jeff Edge When: Dec 8, 2014

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Comments: That crimp might've gotten softer because I thought the crux was not too hard and kinda fun, and the crimp none too sharp. +1 for sweet moves leading up to it.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Loose Women, Loose Rock (5.9+)
By: Jeff Edge When: Nov 29, 2014

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Comments: Definitely tough, think I only counted 2 or 3 bolts though + anchors. Funky moves in the pockets, but kinda cool. Would be a little scared of leading on gear due to the rock quality though.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Far Beyond Driven (5.10b)
By: Jeff Edge When: Nov 29, 2014

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Comments: No I've done those ones too! There's another route that shares the start with this one. Then to the right is a crack which leads to some funky pockets then to bolts (Loose women, Loose rock, I presume). Then up some boulders to the right is that first 5.8 of Tombstone pit. Might be pretty new?


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Unforgiven (5.11b)
By: Jeff Edge When: Nov 29, 2014

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Comments: +1 for staying left of the bush, fun route. Crux feels pretty fair at 11b since its *so* short, even if it is a tricky 1.5 moves! Compared to Mad Season for example which is a lot more sustained at the grade.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Quick on the Draw (5.11a)
By: Jeff Edge When: Nov 29, 2014

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Comments: Thought the slab down low was pretty fun! Big ledge is kinda weird, but top is fun again. I could see 10d for the bottom or sure, but not a ton of routes quite like this in the area so I guess its hard to say.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Good Day for a Hangin' (5.10d)
By: Jeff Edge When: Nov 29, 2014

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Comments: Really just a one-move crux but is totally worth doing!! The "jug" you throw from doesn't feel as good as you'd like, but just go for it you'll be fine.


Location: CA : San Bernardino Mountains : Big Bear Lake Area : Big Bear North : Holcomb Valley Pinnacles : ... : Stake Your Claim (5.10d)
By: Jeff Edge When: Nov 29, 2014

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Comments: So much fun! One of the most engaging routes at Holcomb I think. Thought the end was pretty hard though since you're climbing on a bunch of steep crimps and all


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