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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Photo
By: Jeff Bevan When: Aug 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stunning!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Glacier Gorge : Chiefshead Northwest Face : Birds of Fire (5.11a R)
By: Jeff Bevan When: Jul 27, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, I've had this rte on my list for quite a while now and finally made the trek in to do it. Is it a good rte? Without question. Is it a serious undertaking? Absolutely, and be ready for some bold climbing at what many would call a moderate grade. Nonetheless impeccable rock on a magnificent face. Slabbies rejoice because the cup runneth over here! As of 7/24/10, the rte is dry the snow is intimidating but doable, and sun still hits the face for a large portion of the day. Don't expect steps a... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : Photo
By: Jeff Bevan When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice photo of Chip at home. Olaf we've never met but I spent a little time climbing with Chip in the Park and on the Diamond back in the early '70's. He was one of those unique infectious personalities that one never forgets.
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Location: CO : Buena Vista : Turtle Rocks : You Call Yourself a Thief? (5.10a)
By: Jeff Bevan When: Jun 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice route. Crux first move, then cruiser after that.
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Location: CO : Buena Vista : Pump Station : Despondent (5.11+)
By: Jeff Bevan When: Jun 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely not .11+ maybe .10+ or at the most .11-. The old mimeograpghed valley guide had this route at .10b/c. While that may be a bit soft, .11+ is wrong.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Rosy Arete/Tourist Route (5.9 R)
By: Jeff Bevan When: Jun 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route for the second time. I came away with a less favorable reaction this time than I did last time. Possibly because I'm sure we weren't on the same line as tyhe first time I did it. My notes from the first excursion suggest staying generally right when choices need to be made. This time I let myself be pulled left on the 3rd pitch further than I think is needed and I found more dubious ground. The final section of this rte is great if you stay way right and actually turn the corner r... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Telluride : Ames Wall : Ames Ice Hose (WI5 M6 R)
By: Jeff Bevan When: Feb 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Although this was my first ascent of this classic I'd say it was very fat. There has been a bit of traffic on it so it shows the wear and tear making it easier than what I am sure it is most winters. Top of the upper slab is where the freshest ice is and consequently the most attention to your feet. The first pitch is fat and cruiser. Must do climb!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust Area : Mary's Bust - main buttress
By: Jeff Bevan When: Jan 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did a route in about 1970 on the road side of this (east? face) up to an arching overlap then right to a groove and up up to the top. Don't remember much other than there was some fairly runout climbing for the pro at the time. Maybe 5.8(?) again its been a few years so things are a bit fuzzy. Repeated once afterwards with other friends.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Russian Arete (5.9+) : Photo
By: Jeff Bevan When: Dec 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Certainly one of the best photos from inside the canyon that I've seen. Truly a magical place.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Journey Home (5.10-)
By: Jeff Bevan When: Mar 17, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: My fav Black rte ! I agree with many re. the first pitch... just getting your nuts slung in the right spot before you step onto the wall is the hardest part. After that thoughtful climbing takes you to the belay. The move out of the chimney is one of my alltime favorite sequences, airy, hard but not too desperate, lots of incentive to get it done, hangin with your right fist jammed over your head and pretty much cutting loose to swing into position to stem your left leg way left is full value! I... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Moses : Dunn Route (5.11-)
By: Jeff Bevan When: Mar 5, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route around 1988 or 89 and didn't have much to go on. When I got into the cave to belay and looked out at the "horrific" overhanging offwidth looming over me I nearly shat myself. Imagine my surprise when I found the cave exit in the back of the cave. Fun route!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : The Crestones
By: Jeff Bevan When: Aug 14, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: My partner and I did the Ellingwood Ledges & Peak Traverse part of the link up on Monday. I have done the Prow as well on a separate excursion. While I am no marathon maniac, the feat is doable. First off a good working knowledge of the traverse is mandatory as it isn't all that intuitive and is usually done in the reverse direction. After dropping all the way down the North/west couloir on Crestone Peak, it is most likely a long mile over to the start of the Prow on pretty reasonable terrain. E... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Island In The Sky : Monster Tower : North Ridge (5.11) : Photo
By: Jeff Bevan When: May 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I love this view. In the far distance just left of Monster Tower is one of the Six Shooter Peaks. How about that rappell!
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Beige Tube Area / The Narro... : Bridge Wall North (Practice... : Safety in Numbers (5.11 A3)
By: Jeff Bevan When: May 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: First climbed that line in '69 or so as an aid line, right out of High School, then free'd it a year or so later. Disney did a fair bit in that area earlier on and then my compatriots and I did our best to climb whatever we could around that bend. Also put up several routes on the pillar above the river downstream a bit. Also did some work on Mary's Bust (always liked that neame), but most of the lines seem to be lost in obscurity.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : The Scenic Cruise (5.10d) : Photo
By: Jeff Bevan When: Apr 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Top of the second pitch? Now a shot from the same angle on the traverse pitch or the 6th pitch would produce a real sense of air under your arse. Nice pic.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Hesse-Ferguson (5.9 R)
By: Jeff Bevan When: Jun 26, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did yet another variation on the same theme. From the top of pitch one stepped right to a large right facing dihedral. Climbed it to where it is capped by whitish manky rock and seta belay at a large detached block with rap slings around it. From this belay, climbed right out across a broken face (.9-) to where the large right facing dihedral of of Gillett's variation "b" bombbays out. Climb overlaps up into dihedral (.11+) and set belay. Climbed directly up dihedral referenced in Gillett's vari... more >>
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Location: CO : Buena Vista
By: Jeff Bevan When: Feb 3, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: So many options exist that the above comments don't reflect on what really goes on here. Everything from semi-alpine Yo like granite buttresses to riverside crags that get "GRID" bolted, OMFG. You be the judge and come and have a good time. Even a little ice in the "off season" :).
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