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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Y2K (5.10a)
By: jblackattack When: Nov 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fun route enjoyed it thoroughly. My only questions are: why so many bolts on the first pitch compared to the second pitch? When you leave the first belay going straight up, it seemed a bit run out. I found some marginal small wire placements and did not really feel like I got a decent nut in for at least 15ft maybe 20ft up past the belay. The climbing was not all that hard granted, but why bolt the heck out of the first pitch making it literally a sport climb and not have a bolt on the second pi... more >>
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Five Pack (5.10)
By: jblackattack When: Oct 23, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route yesterday and found it to be a very fun route. Definitely advisable to stay with in the cracks when possible. Found lots of loose friable rock just outside the cracks on the first 3 pitches which keeps you honest for sure. 4th pitch was great with the roof and final lay back capping it all off
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Winter Heat Wall : Could'nt be Schmooter (5.9-)
By: jblackattack When: Oct 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really fun route. We found both routes we did on this wall to be very fun and of very high quality. Can't wait to go back and do more on this wall!
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Black Velvet Canyon : Black Velvet Wall : Overhanging Hangover (5.10a)
By: jblackattack When: Sep 30, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has potential to be a stellar two pitch route based on situation, rock quality and variety of moves if it were not for all the friggin' poop!!!! The first pitch was good quality with out the "poop" factor. Fun face climbing, edging and smearing lead up to the first belay.
After reading previous comments and viewing previous photos of the route, it seems to me that this route has acquired a lot more substantial amount of crap deposits. The second pitch starts out immediately with ... more >>
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Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Hidden Valley Campground : The Blob : The Blob - Southeast Face : Buissonier (5.7)
By: jblackattack When: Oct 30, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thought this was a really fun route. I did not find it stiff for the 5.7 rating, just that it has a sustained section to work through. Very good pro and if you just move through the crux section you get a nice rest in the chimney.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Purblind Pillar (5.8)
By: jblackattack When: Oct 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route takes a great line up the Angel food wall and was a lot of fun. The two cruxes are both face moves that required a little bit of thinking but nothing exceptional. Careful leaving the 4th belay, the knobs are sketchy and if you break one off before reaching the bolt you will most likely land on your belayer. I agree that there were a few run-out sections so keep that in mind as well.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Straight Shooter Wall : Straight Shooter (5.9)
By: jblackattack When: Oct 4, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this route today on a beautiful sunny day. It was a very fun route although short. Definitely a great test piece to see how you are for 5.9-.10a leading
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Location: NV : Red Rock : White Rock Spring : Angel Food Wall : Tunnel Vision (5.7)
By: jblackattack When: Sep 9, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I heard a lot about this climb before hand but unfortunately it did not live up to its praise for me. I would barley give this climb 1.5 stars. There are much better climbs on this wall.
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