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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Duncan's Ridge
By: jbarnum When: Nov 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Jeff,
They did not bolt the roof, but a set to climber's right, and another set to the left, in addition to the bolts that were already there. I am surprised the roof was not bolted, since that also seems to be the more timely anchor to build. I agree, the more traffic an area sees, the more likely we are to have people that will abuse it. Two recent fire rings were also evident. An area like this, while not destination, should have its tradition and ethics be respected. I am not one to cho... more >>
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Horsetooth Reservoir : Duncan's Ridge
By: jbarnum When: Nov 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Up there yesterday. Someone has been busy. New bolts across the top, so new the drill dust was still there. Two new sets, and a replacement/refurbish of the existing set. It was nice to get more climbing in and move from bolted anchor to bolted anchor without having to fiddle with gear. I understand the debate between pro and fixed gear, but I personally do not have an opinion on bolts in this particular area. Perhaps with the addition of bolts the area will see more traffic, and some people d... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Colorado Northeast Ridge (5.8 C2)
By: jbarnum When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this past weekend. As stated before the exposure is exhausting, especially for those like myself that get out less than others.
Link up the initial bolt ladder and chimney. Then the C2 pitch, then link the long bolt ladder through the roof to the large ledge. Then free the mantle and funky chimney to the end. 4 pitches total, with 60m ropes. No need for nuts. But bring rivet hangers, cams, and lots of biners and slings. The initial bolt ladder has a long piece of white webbing dan... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : Jurassic Park - Lily Lake : The Fin : Edge of Time (5.9)
By: jbarnum When: Jul 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was up there yesterday. The bolt has indeed moved, but I did not see a hole where the older bolt had been. The beginning is still as delicate as before. Or maybe I simply missed the new hole. There was a camp up there climbing, as there often is, and one of the counselors relayed that the previous bolt had indeed pulled out. Apparently someone pulled on the bolt, to prevent a fall, and it came out. Not overly surprising given the quality of rock in spots, and the number of times this bolt ... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Jug Dome aka Anne's Rock
By: jbarnum When: Jan 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: After speaking with an employee at Neptune today, what exactly is the protocol for registers like this? It was up there last year, but obviously time has taken its toll. With these posts, it is only a matter of time before someone takes the register-(numerous registers have disappeared)-or damages the fragile papers while viewing it. One afternoon I was up there with other climbers and dare not tough the register for fear it would blow away in the constant wind.
Would anyone be opposed to... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice
By: jbarnum When: Jan 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was up in the Park, today and yesterday. Little to no ice at Loch Vale, basically all mixed. Overflow/Jewel Lake Ice stepped out and thin. Grinding out screws and dulling picks.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust
By: jbarnum When: Jan 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If anyone is interested in the ice occasionally seen up and around Mary's Bust while driving towards Estes, I went and checked it out the other day. Unless it is a banner, flagship, fatty fat year, forget it. I am sure in thick times the flows would be nice, 3 flows with some mixed climbing and comfy belays, short approach. But right now in lean times, 3 little flows that might take a screw each. When we get the big dump along with other consistent snow storms, check back. Anybody else clim... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : South Face (5.8)
By: jbarnum When: Dec 31, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: 5.8 X---wow.
Please disregard ShawnB as an anomaly. This is a sweet climb and worth the time. The rap route makes it even sweeter. Please do not be swayed by a lengthy description of negativity. Get out there and climb this thing.
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Glacier Gorge : Black Lake Slabs (WI2-3)
By: jbarnum When: Nov 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Up there today---nice pieces of ice, in very fat. Lots of variations exist. I ran out of screws and options part way up, belaying in less than ideal circumstances. Bring extra webbing, some rock pro, and maybe a few more screws for that anchor, as you very well may need them. We descended on climbers' left after a few hip belays and slab rock down climbing. Better than going up and over, and walking around, but not ideal.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : Kingfisher : Colorado Northeast Ridge (5.8 C2)
By: jbarnum When: Nov 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Up there yesterday. Decided to go with the better judgement and bail, not risk being out there in a potential rain/lighting storm. I can only imagine the difficulties faced with a wet Fisher Tower. We did replaced the slings at the first belay, lower part of the chimney. It was becoming quite a rat's nest of webbing, unsightly and sun-bleached. Could really use some chains, and that goes for the first three belays we saw. We left some new cord, red in color, not easily seen, but you will w... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra : The Cobra (5.11b R)
By: jbarnum When: Oct 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Worth the time if you are in the Fishers, of course for the quintessential photo. We made the climb much easier, and fun, by stick clipping the piton from the good stance below. Pretty much unprotected until that point. We are not 5.11 R climbers, but were able to enjoy the moves (goes right to nice hands) and spectacular unusual summit. We left the stick in one of the chimneys on the front of the formation, for those Ancient Art climbers wishing to tackle another summit, like us.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : South Face (5.8)
By: jbarnum When: Sep 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed it today. Fun route, great scenery, could not ask for more in the alpine setting. Do your homework, get a map, know where you are going, maybe carry a route description. However the virtual paved highway to Sky Pond should prove to be helpful. After climbing the waterfall in the dark, stay close to the lakes until underneath Petit. A trail should be there, at the very least this should save you some trouble. Route is pretty clean, as solid as an alpine climb will get. Clean route, li... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Combat Rock : Diagonal (5.9)
By: jbarnum When: Jun 8, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best route on the rock. Will definitely do it again, and maybe try Al's suggestion. 70m rope comfortably makes it to the top anchors on Rambo Santa and beats the two previous uncomfortable belays. Do the first pitch. Let your partner have the roof. The first pitch is the business. #1-3 Camalot on the roof will sew it up.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : The Monastery : Outer Gates : Trois Pistoles (5.10a)
By: jbarnum When: Jun 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I am pretty sure we climbed this today. Still clipped the bolts, but a few variations exist, staying a little right, the moving left. Not 5.10a though. 8 or so.
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Location: CO : Fort Collins : Poudre Canyon : Greyrock : Southeast Face : Greatest Route (5.8)
By: jbarnum When: Mar 26, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this yesterday. Little trouble with pitch one. I see some people posted that the start moves are unprotected, but we easily sank a well-purchased nut, and then went up the crack on the right side following the 'hand jams'. Stiff warm up after the hike. We stayed out of the dihedral, since there were no hand jams. It got interesting after this.
My partner led this and I am glad he did. He went over left, above start dihedral/roof, and followed the shallow seams a full rope length t... more >>
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Location: CO : Grand Junction : Colorado National Monument : Independence Monument : Otto's Route (5.8+)
By: jbarnum When: Mar 13, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed it two days ago. Ice at the second belay and getting up into the Time Tunnel. Cold Toes. I was shocked to find foot prints in the snow patches up there. Some wizard left the register open and it was filled with water. I poured it out, however the book and contents are soaked. I did not bring it down since I did not have a bag or anything, and the register might be saved if left to dry out. I am sure it will get replaced this summer, at some point. Just plan ahead with a bag or so... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Wild Basin : Hidden Falls : Hidden Falls (main) (WI4)
By: jbarnum When: Feb 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed several variations today at the falls, and had an awesome time. Believe it or not, no one else was around. I was however a little concerned about the two anchors in the rock, on the upper left. Only two anchors I saw. One anchor appears to have some type of epoxy on it, and the other was loose, bolt and hanger. I am by no means an anchor expert, and I am sure they are fine for the time being. However, for as much traffic as the falls see, and the poor conditions in which thes... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Wild Basin
By: jbarnum When: Feb 19, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed it today, still in to the top. Very chopped out, but still fun. The side flows are wet and fresh, but getting thinner.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Linger Longer Rock
By: jbarnum When: Sep 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lew,
I climbed this the other day with Al Simons. It actually is on private land and owned by the people across the street. They are not at all opposed to climbers on their property. They are however upset that someone would bolt and not ask permission. From across the street the shiny new bolts beam like diamonds in the sun. As far as I know it still up in the air as to who bolted the line.
The owners are lovely people and even invited Al and myself over for coffee before giving it a go.... more >>
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Location: CO : Empire : Junction Boulder
By: jbarnum When: Aug 31, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: While looking for this boulder, I found a handful on the south side of I-70, along the frontage road towards Dumont. Some holds have chalk, and someone has been partying here. Looks close to private land, anyone know for sure? Definitely not a destination spot, but worth a stop if you travel I-70 a lot like me. Any info would be helpful.
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Location: CO : Empire : Junction Rock
By: jbarnum When: Aug 29, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I stop by in Empire frequently to climb. Thanks to those who have put so much work into Ra and Goat Rock. What a unique climbing experience. I have stopped by Junction Rock to look. I see what appear to be two lines, newly bolted on the lower crag. What do they go at? Does the upper wall hold routes? I don't want to be working lines, chalking holds if this is someone else's project. Let me know what is up, and where is this boulder?
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