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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Mount Bigelow : Butterfly Wall
By: jbaker When: Oct 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good work you suckers !
This crag has been on my "gotta-go-back-and-check-it-out" list for about 10 years now. It was in Steiger's guide and the old Summit Hut guide, but not in EFRs. So I figured everyone had forgotten about it. And it wasn't visible from the highway until the recent fire cleared out all the trees. So I figured I had all the time in the world.
NOT !
I first visited the crag in 1979. It was a desperate manzanita thrash to get there. To my purely trad eyes it looked funk... more >>
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Location: AZ : The Dry Canyon
By: jbaker When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can download Vince Bates' guide to The Dry by going to this page, find the link, right click and "Save target as"...http://members.cox.net/johnnlindabaker/index.shtml
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Location: AZ
By: jbaker When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You can download Vince Bates' guide to The Dry by going to this page, find the link, right click and "Save target as"...http://members.cox.net/johnnlindabaker/index.shtml
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : New Wave Wall : Change in Luck (5.12 PG13)
By: jbaker When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I checked my old journal for my entry on Change Of Luck. I rated it 12b at the time. That makes Bobbie's cruise even more impressive.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : New Wave Wall : Change in Luck (5.12 PG13)
By: jbaker When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA John Fowler, Scott A, Brent Olson
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : New Wave Wall : Change in Luck (5.12 PG13)
By: jbaker When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route dates back to the EARLY days of sport on Lemmon. We were all mentally still in trad mode. That explains the run-out. It was assumed that you would either just run it out or plug a cam in the horizontal.
I saw many talented climbers of the time fail to on-sight the start. Most of us (well me anyway) thought that stick-clipping the start was cheating because it took away the danger of an ankle-smashing fall. If you stick-clip, you have pretty much turned it into a top-rope. But... more >>
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Location: NM : Caballo Lake/ T or C : Bat Cave Area
By: jbaker When: Aug 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I been looking at that cave every time I drive by... for years... what's the approach time ?
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Location: WY : Wild Iris : Zorro Area : Little Sport (5.11b)
By: jbaker When: Aug 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is this the route that's called "Ewenanimity" in LANDER ROCK ?
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : The Murray Wall : Murray Freestone (5.11b)
By: jbaker When: Aug 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Then it would make more sense to say "it's to the left of Kundalini".
Anyway... it's clear now.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : The Murray Wall : Murray Freestone (5.11b)
By: jbaker When: Aug 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Luke, I'm not picturing where this climb is exactly. Kundalini is left of MDT and shares a start with MDT. So where is the new route relative to Kundalini ?
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Location: AZ : Silverbell Boulders
By: jbaker When: Aug 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chris, the short answer is "yes". Murray explored the Tucson mtns pretty much end-to-end. He documented some of them in "Bouldering beyond Campbell" but not all. I know where a lot of them are and so does George Smith.
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Location: AZ : Baboquivari Peak : West Face/ Southwest Arete : Born of Water (5.10c)
By: jbaker When: Jul 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Someone said I was on drugs last night... but I don't remember.
Think about it though...Scott's lived here 30+ years... does it seem even remotely possible that he's never been to Babo in that time ?
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Location: AZ : Baboquivari Peak : West Face/ Southwest Arete : Born of Water (5.10c)
By: jbaker When: Jul 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: So should I throw away Scott and Mark's hand-drawn topo with their names on it as FAers ? Mark gave it to me a couple of days after they did the FA.
Scott never been to Babo ? Are you on drugs ?
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Location: AZ : Baboquivari Peak : West Face/ Southwest Arete : Born of Water (5.10c)
By: jbaker When: Jul 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: FA of Ayers/Colby is correct.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Cracker Jack (5.10c/d)
By: jbaker When: Jun 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stoppers are force multipliers too. Like using a wedge and sledge to split a log.
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : (01) South and Southwest (R... : (02) Flotsam & Jetsam (5.12a)
By: jbaker When: Jun 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Strong 2 stars, maybe a touch soft if you have beta. Nice find Eric !
A keeper bolt at the start would be a service.
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Cochise Stronghold Campgrou... : Dominatrix Crack (5.11d)
By: jbaker When: Jun 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 35 feet !?...How about 17.5 ?
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Munchkinland Area : Lurking Troll Tower???? : Left Route/Project??? (5.12)
By: jbaker When: May 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I drilled some anchors and maybe a bolt or two. The angle looked intriguing but the movement was thrutchy and nasty. Not for me.
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Munchkinland Area : Lurking Troll Tower???? : Right Route (5.11)
By: jbaker When: May 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The FA is Scott Ayers, strong two stars from me.
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Location: AZ : The Dry Canyon : Paranoid Android (5.11a)
By: jbaker When: May 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is like roped bouldering...but the bottom is fun enough to get a star from me.
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Location: AZ : Mt Elden : West Elden : Uptown : John's Jugs (5.12)
By: jbaker When: Apr 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ken, I think you are on a mistaken identity rampage, it's DAVE Baker that owns the Summit Hut (and bagged all the good lines 40 years ago).
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Location: AZ : Mt Elden : West Elden : Uptown : John's Jugs (5.12)
By: jbaker When: Apr 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: John was a good partner (he and I bouldered a lot back and climbed a little in the mid 80s) and a good guy...but not what you'd call a "people person". PD...can you picture him drumming up business ? I'm laughing.
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Location: AZ : Mt Elden : West Elden : Uptown : John's Jugs (5.12)
By: jbaker When: Apr 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I absolutely cannot picture John Gault as a climbing guide. Are you sure about that ?
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Location: AZ : Cochise Stronghold : Sweet Rock : Cracker Jack (5.10c/d)
By: jbaker When: Apr 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: 1.0 / sin (cam angle)
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Beaver Wall : Hebe (5.14-)
By: jbaker When: Apr 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That you danny ?...we were talkin about Hebe in the gym ?
Don't worry too much about weather exposure on draws. It takes many months for it to become a problem. When the draws get stiff and crusty, then you can worry.
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