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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point West : ... : Lessons In Yorkshire (5.13a/b)
By: jbak When: May 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Brad... I think you are thinking of Rage when you talk about the two starts. Didn't you FA Rage ?
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Ridge : ... : Demolition Derby (5.12-)
By: jbak When: May 2, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: It looks like the standard way of doing the route now is going more to the left at the crux. Probably easier that way.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Ridge : ... : The Crossing (5.12b)
By: jbak When: Apr 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Swapped out the old (worn) aluminum-biner chaindraw at the lip for a new, all-stainless-steel, climbtech cabledraw on April 22, 2013.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point East : ... : New Wave Direct (5.12c)
By: jbak When: Apr 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Right up your alley !
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point East : ... : New Wave Direct (5.12c)
By: jbak When: Apr 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I guess what I would do (if tasked to do anything) would be... move the first 2 bolts higher (so the pin is not necessary), but leave the pin for its charm.
Or... chop the whole thing -- it goes on gear !
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point East : ... : New Wave Direct (5.12c)
By: jbak When: Apr 17, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: It sure doesn't matter to me.
But my practised eye discerns:
First bolt does not protect anything.
2nd bolt forces draw to lay over the clip hold.
If pin breaks or pops you will deck.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point East : ... : New Wave Direct (5.12c)
By: jbak When: Apr 16, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: E... I think the block in question is too big to pry. And the eliminated moves weren't much fun anyway. Might be better to move the first 2 bolts and eliminate the pin. I'll mention it to Ray some time. I'd be happy to do the work.
This route has seen a lot of action recently. I watched 6 folks hurl themselves at it on a recent sunday. I mentioned my infamous "waitress thumb-rest" to them and they looked at me like I was crazy. But I found it again when I was there with EWod. Full recov... more >>
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point East : ... : New Wave Direct (5.12c)
By: jbak When: Apr 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I belayed EWod on his redpoint yesterday and decided to give it a go since it has been 20 yrs since I redpointed it. Feel confident I could bag it again quite quickly. Seemed just faintly soft for 12c. Solid 3 stars, better than Tsunami in my book.
When they did the highway construction a few years back, they promised they'd be careful not to dump debris down and wreck the climbs here. ........BZZZZZITT !! They buried the first two moves of this route so it is a bit shorter and a vicious cr... more >>
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Location: AZ : Photo
By: jbak When: Apr 9, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Brian K took the photo, but I had to rotate it back to show the actual angle of the crag. He always rotates the camera in response to some inner urge to have the cliff face be perfectly rectilinear in the frame. Luckily the saguaros (and QDs) show the true angle, so it's easy to rotate it back.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tanque Verde Canyon : The Tool Shed
By: jbak When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good link Christian. The word "cliff" on page 13 IS the Shed.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Tanque Verde Canyon : The Tool Shed
By: jbak When: Apr 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Park as for upper falls.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : Photo
By: jbak When: Apr 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The sun sets there EVERY DAY ?! Wow.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point West : ... : Rich and Dave Route (5.8+)
By: jbak When: Apr 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: My thought exactly brick. I figured I'd sound cranky if I said it tho.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Milagrosa Canyon (La Milagr... : The Beach : ... : Photo
By: jbak When: Mar 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Textbook cross-body form ! You musta had a good teacher.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Milagrosa Canyon (La Milagr... : The Beach : ... : Photo
By: jbak When: Mar 30, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Todd definitely put the "F" in "Fight". Forerunner of Jesse S. and Ewo.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Upper Highway : ... : X-Ray (5.9-)
By: jbak When: Mar 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Best sport route of this grade in So Az.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point West : ... : Lessons In Yorkshire (5.13a/b)
By: jbak When: Mar 25, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Strong work Alex !
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point West : ... : Rage to Live (5.13b)
By: jbak When: Feb 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Alex... I'm glad you loved the route. But I gotta tell you, my memory of this route (15-20 yrs ago) is quite a bit different ! Didn't >>Brad<< Smith do the FA ?
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Lower Highway : ... : Before Limitations (5.11)
By: jbak When: Jan 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best elevens around. I bolted the start, and the 2 bolt link-up with DAYS (with Tony's okay). The link-up with DAYS is an even better route (if memory serves), and quite a bit harder.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Chihuahua Power (5.9)
By: jbak When: Dec 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bolting over this route makes no more sense than bolting over Quickdraw. It was not R-rated when it had 3 bolts. It was never a "test piece". Yes, it was "engaging" (Joe T's term), but that's it. The slight mental challenge ADDED to the goodness of this route.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : ... : Chihuahua Power (5.9)
By: jbak When: Dec 30, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route was bolted over ? When ? By who ?
"Chihuahua Pussy" Catchy name Joe ! I laugh.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Point West : ... : Last Supper (5.11)
By: jbak When: Dec 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Christian, you must not be looking at it right. I remember bomber pro, easy to get.
EDIT: Worth mentioning... since Last Supr has a good landing, I didn't even try to get any gear until I was a ways up.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Bear Canyon : The Pyramid
By: jbak When: Dec 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Eric, I believe that is The Pyramid. 2 cracks leaning in toward each other.
I posted the page from the old Hut guide, but Jim's comment below (and Steiger's description in his guide) makes me wonder if the Hut guide is wrong. If the right-hand crack is really a gear-protectable 5.12-, that sounds like a nice find.
I did Froggy Richard back in the early 80s with the direct start and thought it was 5.9.
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal...
By: jbak When: Dec 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A shout out to Jeremy Parks... who after a shaky start, fought through to do his 1st-ever FA, an as-yet-unnamed, 2-star, 5.11+/5.12- at the Tusk. Way to go Remy !
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Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon Highway (Catal... : Windy Ridge : ... : Death Warmed Over (5.13a/b)
By: jbak When: Nov 29, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good job Alex, maybe I'll put this route on my to-do list again. I had it worked out 10-15 years ago but broke a hold that was crucial to my beta and lost interest. I could move that mis-placed bolt too.
I remember that one of the holds was like pulling on a credit-card edge.
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