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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Grand Canyon National Park : Comanche Ridge (NW Ridge of... : Southwest Ridge, Comanche P... (5.10+ R)
By: jayci When: Mar 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just did this route car to car starting at midnight and ending around the same time the next day. A real adventure climb! There are many possible ways through the Coconino. The Agave variation was great climbing. Nice find! I would call this a very fair grade V effort.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : ... : Arch Enemy (5.11+)
By: jayci When: Feb 5, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the best I've done in Sedona so far! Watch out for the cactus after the last rap. very well thought out route!
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Miscellaneous Routes : Engagement (5.10+)
By: jayci When: Sep 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A Grey TCU in soft sandstone sounds a little less than "bomber". Last time I checked a grey TCU was valued at 4kn? that's not enough to take a full factor fall when it's placed perfectly in great rock. You should go up and fall on that piece and if it holds then this climb is as G rated as the Jonas Brothers.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Grand Canyon National Park : Mount Hayden : Pegasus (5.10+)
By: jayci When: Sep 6, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a true adventure! The approach is most likely the hardest approach to climb a desert tower I have ever done. The climb down the gully is probably a consistant 45 degrees. If you pick the wrong route through the bushes, you'll find yourself in the most horrible forest of Mexican Locust. Also, the climbing is full value and then some for the grade and size of the route.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Cloak & Dagger (5.10+)
By: jayci When: Aug 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great route! Maybe as good as the other classics on CR Buttress! The crux is about as good as climbing gets in The Black.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Mormon Canyon : Duck for Cover (5.11)
By: jayci When: Jun 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: It would seem that the only pitch that you need all those #2s for is the first pitch. The first pitch is great! It gets sun in the late spring-early summer. Hot day!
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Location: UT : House Range : Notch Peak : Western Hardman (5.11)
By: jayci When: May 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an amazing area! Great climb and more moderate than expected. If your expecting a Black Canyon style 5.11 then you will have no problem taking another route to the top of the peak. All in all a great route.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Oski (5.11)
By: jayci When: Mar 31, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this with Zack. Great climb! The first pitch is more of an approach pitch and could be avoided if you want to get to the biz. Well bolted with clips at natural rests. Beautiful position at the top of Fay Canyon!
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Tiptoe Through the 2 Lips (5.10-)
By: jayci When: Mar 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool summit and you can't beat the dwelling behind the tower. The 1st rappel is in a hard to get to spot.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Spaceballs (5.10)
By: jayci When: Mar 10, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought the 3rd pitch pulling the lip had an element of danger. the last placement was in soso rock. Even if it holds you would take a weird fall back under the egg. Not a life threat, but a good potental injury in my opinion. The rope drag was very minimal on the linkup. Thanks for finding this one! I really enjoyed pitches 1-2. Makes for a great day if combined with some of the other area standards.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Spaceballs (5.10)
By: jayci When: Mar 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you link the first two pitches and rap down from there it's Space Balls. If you go all the way to the top it's Suck Balls!
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Miscellaneous Routes : Engagement (5.10+)
By: jayci When: Mar 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Two worthy pitches on this climb in my opinion. Lots of junk in the middle. The top out on the last pitch is worth a mention as it is loose,dangerous, and not that fun. It's always great to put up a new route, but this is an example of thinking that the lines that you FA are the best. Not a five star venture I'm afraid.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Oak Creek Canyon : Miscellaneous Routes : Book Of Friends (5.10c)
By: jayci When: Mar 1, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is about as good as it gets if you ask me. If only this corner went on for 1000'. Someone has indeed removed the rap anchor. Zack and I rapped off a really bad dead tree into a bush filled gully and then off a terrible piece of tat on a bolt. This climb is worth a good safe rap line!
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Prescott Areas : Granite Mountain : Middle Section : Kingpin (5.10 PG13)
By: jayci When: Nov 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb! I give it a star for every pitch. Link pitches one and two so the belayer wont have the leader land on their head.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : ... : Wild Wild West (5.10+)
By: jayci When: Nov 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice job Chris! This is one of the best I've done so far out here. The last pitch is pucker factor to the max.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Moose's Butte Area : ... : Epitaph (5.9+)
By: jayci When: Nov 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Did this climb today. The roof makes this route worth doing. Super long traverse with good jams. I thought that was the crux of the climb. The rest of it is very moderate.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Trundlers Club (5.11-)
By: jayci When: Nov 7, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Great climb! Lots of variety and well protected. One #4 cam felt like enough to me.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Tom's Thumb : Deep Freeze (5.11-)
By: jayci When: Jul 10, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this climb not to long ago. It has a terrible amount of pink bird shit in the middle of the climb. Not as classic as I had hoped!
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Flagstaff Crags : The Overlook : Left Trinity Crack (5.10-)
By: jayci When: Jul 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The left roof is more like 5.10. protects well with some hand size pieces. Worth doing.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Unknown (5.10c)
By: jayci When: Feb 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is not as good as LW. The corner pitch looks inviting, but protects with some pretty small stuff in marginal rock. The moves are committing and feel like maybe 11a tips laybacking. Don't take this one lightly! The bolts on the first pitch are unnecessary. There are good placements next to all of them and the climbing is easy.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Praying Hands (5.11a/b)
By: jayci When: Feb 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a great adventure route! The roof pitch is fantastic climbing with great exposure. The traverse after the roof is memorable. Just don't go into it expecting flawless rock.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Church Spires Area : ... : Genesis (5.10-)
By: jayci When: Jan 31, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The second pitch is good. If anything it suffers from neglect. We trundled off a few loose chunks. As of now it only has one bolt at the anchor.
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Big Corner (5.10c/d)
By: jayci When: Jan 28, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really nice pitch! I felt the wide pod was the crux. The thin climbing happens right after it but there are great feet and crimps on the face. The first pitch is a bit spicy.
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Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : McDowell Mountains : Tom's Thumb : Succubus (5.10a)
By: jayci When: Dec 6, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: It is very possible to get your rope stuck on this climb. It would be much easier if not for the slippery nature of the roof. Less than awesome:(
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Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : Sedona Area : Sedona : Steamboat Rock/Midgley Brid... : ... : Olympiad (5.10b/c PG13)
By: jayci When: Jan 9, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb has a few worthy pitches. Lots of groveling on fourth class terrain, and lots of blocky climbing with deck potential. Nice views though.
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