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Member Since: Aug 26, 2004
Last Visit: Dec 28, 2012
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Point Rank: # 5,389
Total Points: 60
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
6 Compliments
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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Contributions


All (52) | Routes | Areas | Photos (9) | Comments (15) | Posts (3) | Stars (13) | Ratings (12)

Contributed Comments

 

Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 2 - Bear Canyon : ... : Toy Roof (5.9+ R)
By: JayCap When: Feb 19, 2012

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Comments: There is currently only one chain at the top of this route.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : La Milagrosa Canyon : Main Wall : Valentine Arete (5.8+)
By: JayCap When: Mar 14, 2010

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Comments: I agree this is stiff for 5.8, at least at the bottom, and would go 5.9. The route is clean and fun--didn't find any loose stuff on the route at all.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : The Left One (5.7)
By: JayCap When: Feb 16, 2010

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Comments: Two of the runouts can be protected with small nuts or cams. Only one goes without protection, and it is high up with no danger of ground fall or ledges. Fun route.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Cochise Stronghold : East Stronghold : Zappa Dome : One Size Fits All (5.8)
By: JayCap When: Feb 15, 2009

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Comments: Sustained 5.8 if you can reach the height-dependent move at the crux. If not, I think it pushes the grade up a notch.


Location: CA : Joshua Tree National Park : Indian Cove : Indian Cove Campground : Moosedog Tower : Tranquility (5.6)
By: JayCap When: Jan 7, 2009

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Comments: The route description is okay, but the comments are misleading. If you are going to do the 5.6, stay out of the cracks! The left leaning crack is easier to get into than the awkward move to get into the right leaning crack, but they're both off-route. To stay 5.6, traverse right out of the alcove and head around the corner, using friction for the feet and some underclings for hands. Once you turn the corner you head up a short friction ramp to the saddle between the first and second summit. Rope... more >>


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Pizz Whiz (5.8+)
By: JayCap When: Nov 22, 2008

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Comments: Erin, Twin Peaks is uphill from where the trail meets the west-facing wall (I believe it's the 3rd bolted route from the left, near a 3-trunked tree). Pizz Whiz is located downhill from the trail and around the corner, on the far right of the south-facing wall. It's the only 2-pitch route there.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Bitter Table for One (5.9)
By: JayCap When: Sep 22, 2008

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Comments: Using the tree at the ledge? That tree doesn't look like it'll be there forever. Don't use tree and let's grade this climb for what it is, a good 5.9. Either that, or maybe I was having an off day when I climbed it. Anyway, this route is fun with three distinct cruxes. It climbs like three stacked boulder problems with breaks in between.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Cave Wall
By: JayCap When: Sep 1, 2008

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Comments: Don't turn up the first drainage and start looking for black stumps - there are dozens of them. It's about 65 paces (not 50') south from the parking area to the trail. It's marked with a cairn, and the black stump is visible up the hill, also with a cairn clearly visible on top. The trail is abundantly marked all the way to the crag.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Butthead (5.7)
By: JayCap When: Dec 2, 2007

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Comments: This climb is on the south face, not the west face as stated in the route description. It is between Beavis to the left, and Pizz Whiz to it's right.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 6 - Mid-Mountain : ... : Pizz Whiz (5.8+)
By: JayCap When: Dec 2, 2007

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Comments: This route is actually all the way to the right (not left, as in the route description) of the south face, and goes up on the right side of the outcrop. Beavis and Butthead are the other two climbs on this south face, to the left of Pizz Whiz.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 5 - Windy Ridge : Matterhorn
By: JayCap When: Mar 16, 2007

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Comments: The "lonely tree" on the summit is no longer there.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : North Face (5.7)
By: JayCap When: Jan 22, 2006

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Comments: You are right, Bobby. I believe that first bolt is for the 5.8 route that goes pretty much straight up from that spot. Thanks for catching my mistake.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 3 - Windy Point East : ... : North Face (5.7)
By: JayCap When: Sep 16, 2005

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Comments: There are currently two bolts protecting this route -- the first is just around the corner as you step onto the face, and the second to the left of the bulge. (See photo).


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Machinegun (5.7)
By: JayCap When: Aug 27, 2004

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Comments: Looks like someone started to chop the cold shut for the left-hand chains. It is scarred and loose.


Location: AZ : Southern Arizona : Mount Lemmon (Santa Catalin... : Mount Lemmon (Catalina High... : 1 - Lower Highway : ... : Cell Block Six (5.6)
By: JayCap When: Aug 26, 2004

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Comments: There are actually 8 bolts on this route. Agree with Almonzo that 5.8 is too high a rating for this climb, but 5.6 or 5.6+ is fair. (Scarface on the Alcatraz Wall, which is rated 5.7, is easier climbing). Hardest bolt to reach is the first, and it's high for a first clip. A slip before this clip would be bad news.