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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Matthews-Winters Park : The Millenium Boulder : Lono (V1)
By: Jay van Sam When: 1 day ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this one again today, and I agree, more like V1.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Stone Free (5.11c R)
By: Jay van Sam When: 3 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: This route has some fun and unique moves, and a tricky crux that is fun to figure out. True, the first bolt is high, but as others have said you can have your belayer anchor to the large eyebolt for protection until you get to the first bolt. Moving into Reefer for the last bolt seemed like the natural line to me.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - top to Xanadu : A Cut Above (5.12a)
By: Jay van Sam When: 6 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I tried to change my rating to 5.x, but the drop down menu only provides V grades to choose from.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - top to Xanadu : A Cut Above (5.12a)
By: Jay van Sam When: Nov 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was a fun little problem. I did it on tr, but it would be more fun with some crash pads and a spotter. Crux moves are down low, which would make the top out a little easier on the head. Impossible looking face, until I started climbng and holds started to magically appear.
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Location: Jay van Sam : climbingpics : Photo
By: Jay van Sam When: Nov 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't know if it's been sent yet, but i would imagine it has. Pretty cool line, with some interesting moves up top. I think it probably falls closer to .12d than .13a.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Black and Tan (5.13a)
By: Jay van Sam When: Nov 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: LOL, good question, Darren; wingspan is 6'. I toyed with the idea of making the long reach, but I think I'm gonna have to give in and use either the gaston/dish or the micro-crimp underneath it. Gonna have to get up there and spend some time on that move, the other day it was getting dark and cold and didn't want to put my belayer through too much hell. Just out of curiosity, have you pulled the crux moves? Is there some beta floating around out there in the land of MP?
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of the '90s : Black and Tan (5.13a)
By: Jay van Sam When: Nov 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Got on this thing today on tr - whoooo! stiff! Couldn't pull the crux moves down low, between bolt 3 and 4, I believe. I couldn't even conceive of a sequence that would work, but I know it's there and I'll be back! The rest of the route was tons of fun, with improbable looking moves that leave you smiling, and screaming, all the way to the top.
Does anyone know if this has been sent since the holds have broken? I haven't given in yet, but I may need some beta in the coming weeks if things don'... more >>
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Contest Wall : Phase Dance (5.12-)
By: Jay van Sam When: Nov 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very tough onsight. Hell, it was hard after I took at the crux lol. Tricky, but awesome and very unique. Stays with you the whole way.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Castrator (5.10b)
By: Jay van Sam When: Nov 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: As of today the branch down low is still waiting to claim your manhood.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Freeform (5.12a)
By: Jay van Sam When: Nov 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with others, this is an awesome route. A tricky slab down low, with a powerful slightly overhanging face topping out over a bulge to finish. Power, balance, sequence and technique are all needed for this route. Definitely the best .12 I've been on at Shelf, although I haven't sampled many.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : Hangman (5.12b)
By: Jay van Sam When: Oct 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've heard the same thing. A buddy of mine was out there not long ago with some friends, and they couldn't figure out they're way past it now that the hold has broken. He thought it was at least a number grade harder now.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Wall of Justice : Hanging Judge (5.11c)
By: Jay van Sam When: Oct 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Finally climbed this one, wow! awesome route! I can't describe how much fun i had on this one. Seems as if someone replaced the fixed draws as well, they all seemed brand new and in great condition. Thanks to whoever put in the time and money to equip this; it's greatly appreciated.
I pulled some broken rocks out from behind one of the holds, which consequently made it much bigger/better. I didn't intend to change the route, but this hold is definitely better now that you can get you... more >>
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : 2nd Meat Wall : Gouge On It (5.10+)
By: Jay van Sam When: Oct 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this is the right picture for this route. Was a varied crack the whole way, mostly good hands and fingers. A crack switch to the left is up high, which has you stem for a few moves then going totally into the left side crack. I thought this route was pretty sweet, if indeed I have the correct route on here.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Battle of the Bulge Buttres... : The Last Battle (5.11)
By: Jay van Sam When: Oct 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this route is awesome. Fun climbing and movement throughout, with lots of variations from thin fingers to large fists. Climbs a little sport-ish, due to the amount of face holds you can use, but the moves are great and mixes it up a little from the endless splitters all around you. Cool route, recommended (especially for your friends who can't crack climb lol)
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Sonic Youth (5.13a)
By: Jay van Sam When: Sep 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: No one messed with the line, but a few holds have broken off this year. Early in the year the right half of the starting jugs broke, but it didn't change much. Then around the end of june the incut crimp that you got right at the top after the crux moves (the left hand pinch bump) broke off; the entire block is gone. The new crux moves are hard but solid, and I don't think the grade has changed. So if anyone's to blame it's mother nature, but I think she just wanted to give us a new ch... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Sonic Youth (5.13a)
By: Jay van Sam When: Sep 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey Luke, myself, and a few, I've been trying this route with all use the same head-jam rest to get ready for the crux. Definitely an awkward rest, but hey, whatever works right? Kinda insecure position, and you really crank on those calves to make sure you don't come peeling out of there.
BTW, this route has been sent by a friend a few weeks ago, sans mega-jug finishing hold at the top. We all know it wasn't a jug, but compared to whats up there now it sure seems like it. So, yes, the route st... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Primo Wall : River Run (5.13b) : Photo
By: Jay van Sam When: Aug 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks luke, I like this one, too. Not sure if it's much harder with the broken hold, some say it is and others say it isn't. Never tried it before the hold broke, so I don't know. either way it's an awesome line.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Bastille : The Bastille - N Face : Derek-Tissima (5.12 X)
By: Jay van Sam When: Aug 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Wow, I thought this route was great. Interesting, thought provoking moves that left me smiling when I got to the top. I would give it three or four stars if it wasn't in Eldo. Makes me wonder if putting bolts in so one could lead it would be a worthwhile endeavor. My hunch though is that 40 feet of .12a in a canyon that hosts so much isn't worth equipping for lead, especially since so few seem to climb it.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : River Wall : River Jam (5.11c)
By: Jay van Sam When: Aug 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Does anyone know what the variation that cuts left after the roof is?
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d)
By: Jay van Sam When: Jul 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I know exactly how that feels jhump, I felt really close after about 5 tries and it took me 30 to send. And take it from me, falling after that last dyno is easier than you think. And yes, I am a 5.10 crack climber. lol
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The New River Wall : Sonic Youth (5.13a)
By: Jay van Sam When: Jul 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The sling on bolt 5 is starting to wear through on the bottom, probably due to climbers clipping back into this draw when lowering and not unclipping the belayers strand from the draw (like I did). I'll replace it next time I'm up there, as well as the 'biner on the draw you clip right before entering the crux. The bottom carabiner on the draw is worn through about halfway. I don't think either piece is suspect, but be forwarned.
The new sequence up top is better now in my opinion, makes the c... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Lower Capitalist Crag : Aries (5.10)
By: Jay van Sam When: Jun 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route confuses me. To start straight up the face following the bolt line is easily .11+, which then peters out into nice 5.10 climbing. If you use the sloping rail to the left, the bolts seem to far out right to be safe for clipping positions. I think that the two bolts moved over to the left a foot or two would keep this route sustained at the grade (.10+/11-), and a lot more fun for the many leaders who look up and think the route looks fun, but are dissuaded by the blank looking start an... more >>
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Crynoid Corner (5.7)
By: Jay van Sam When: Jun 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent climb. True, it would go fine on gear, but so would a lot of routes at shelf. This is obviously a sport climbing destination, why haul a rack out there for a route or two? Doesn't make much sense. As others have said, be careful pulling your rope on this one.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Glue Slippage (5.12b)
By: Jay van Sam When: Jun 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Apparently it's just me, but I thought this route was awesome. True, the first 20 feet aren't classic, but that goes for many a route at shelf. The crux moves are full value; unique, techy, powerful and fun. The top lets off somewhat, but is sustained and keeps you on your toes. This one got me syked up and smiling.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Anarchitect (5.12d)
By: Jay van Sam When: Jun 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: went to hell and back on this route, and the rig finally went today. Hadn't been on it in probably six months, and it felt great to come back and enjoy the climbing again. Never let the send cloud the climbing, cause a line like this is too good to ruin from silly-ness.
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