Contributed Comments |
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Pony Express t... : ... : Photo By: Jay Eggleston When: Nov 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What kind of effect is this? Weren't we there during the day?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Cold Turkey (5.9+) By: Jay Eggleston When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't sling the horn mentioned in the description! It is ready to come off. A #3 Camalot in a pod above and left of the horn seems adequate.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Blob Rock Area : East Blob : ... : The Young and the Rackless (5.9) By: Jay Eggleston When: Nov 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: One rope is all you need for the raps.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : MBA Buttress : Stoney Middleton (5.8) By: Jay Eggleston When: Oct 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: By Table Mtn. standards, this is a great crack climb!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Job Review (5.11a) By: Jay Eggleston When: Oct 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: My partner's 70m rope easily reached from the anchors to the ground. In fact, there was probably two feet on the ground. Either his rope is cut really long or the route is not really 135' long.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Table Top Area : Hate Hate (5.10) By: Jay Eggleston When: Oct 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's still a little dirty but fun if you like to Chimeny. I managed to clip one of my gear loops to the second bolt quickdraw as I moved past. Never had this happen in 29 years of climbing!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Power Bacon (5.10a) By: Jay Eggleston When: Oct 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is an enjoyable route but the anchors are set way back from the edge. Also, the chains do not equalize the bolts when rapping down.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Fern Canyon : ... : Leprechaun Promenade (5.10b R) By: Jay Eggleston When: Oct 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really fun face climbing! There is definitely gear between the bolts, and it is not "R" at all.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - top to Xanadu : Chockstone (5.10a) By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I combined the first and second pitches today and it made for a nice, long pitch. I had avoided the second pitch for a long time but found it to be fun and well protected with small nuts and small cams. I was pleasantly surprised to find the bolt anchor at the top of the second pitch. You are missing out on some good climbing if you only do the first pitch!
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Da Butts : Smegma Burns (5.9+) By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fun route that is harder than it appears from below.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Da Butts : Nazi's Demise (5.10b) By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you plan to rap from the anchors above the first pitch, bring a shoulder length piece of webbing. The slings in-place are cut, probably gnawed through by rodents. After the second pitch we rapped from the "Dum de Dum Dum" anchors to avoid the cut slings.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - Xanadu to Pony... : Funeral March (5.9) By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Easier than the off-width on the Grand Giraffe. I was glad to have 2 #6 Camalots and a blue Big Bro. The flake in the crack you can place smaller gear in is loose. This is a good climb if you enjoy a little groveling.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Da Butts : Dum De Dum Dum (5.10b) By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Slim, I think you are thinking of a different route. After the bulge the right of the twin cracks continues as a finger/hand crack to the anchors. It would not make sense to break to the right.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Sharkstooth : Northeast Ridge (5.6) By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, you need a permit to bivy anywhere in RMNP.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Da Butts : Ho De Do (5.7+) By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is no bolt near the bottom (one is not needed) but the belays have bolts for an easy rap descent. A fun route to warm up on.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Da Butts : Dum De Dum Dum (5.10b) By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 15, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The second pitch is great. The first pitch is just so, so with two or three hard 5.10 moves.
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Location: CO : Photo By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Ice Lake Basin in the San Juan Mountains of Colorado, near Silverton.
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : The Sentinel : Fogline (5.10a) : Photo By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where's my photo ID?
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : The Sentinel : Fogline (5.10a) By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Lots of lichen on this one, but the movement is fun and it is certainly worth doing if in the area.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall : Wild Child (5.11c) By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: No dynos are necessary at the second roof crux on the second pitch. I am 5'8" tall and did the moves statically at 11a/10d.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall : Wild Child (5.11c) By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Certainly a fun route. Not too dirty. The final pitch is excellent!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall : Challenger (5.11b/c) By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Probably a little easier than it is rated. There is some crumbly rock but the climbing is fun.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall : Ground Control to Gumby One (5.9) By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Roth. Harder than 9 and harder than the first pitch of Wild Child.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock : Indistinction (5.8) By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climb this to get your self esteem back up after doing Huston Crack. One of the bolts does not have a ring for lowering/pulling the rope. It could use a quicklink for sure.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Wigwam Creek/Lost Creek Wil... : Wigwam Dome : Ramblin' Rose (5.10) By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for replacing the bolts!
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