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Technosurfing, Rumney. Photo by Seth Hamel.


Member Since: Jul 1, 2001
Last Visit: Apr 12, 2014
Contact Jay Knower


Point Rank: # 56
Total Points: 5,880
Last Year: 1,242
Last 30 Days: 2
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Contributions


All (3228) | Routes (211) | Areas (98) | Photos (303) | Comments (785) | Posts (917) | Stars (739) | Ratings (175)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WI : Devil's Lake : West Bluff - Cleo Amphithea... : Turk's Head : Turk's Head Ridge (5.8) : Photo
By: Jay Knower When: Mar 30, 2014

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Comments: Ha! If only it was really this steep!


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : The Pedestal (5.4)
By: Jay Knower When: Mar 28, 2014

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Comments: If you climb it as one pitch, you miss the best belay ledge at DL! This has always been considered a two-pitch climb.


Location: WI : Devil's Lake : Devil's Lake Bouldering : East Bluff Bouldering : East Bluff South : ... : Lou Reed Crack (V2)
By: Jay Knower When: Mar 17, 2014

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Comments: Super classic old school DL problem. I thought it was harder than V2, but I never used the left foothold that Remo's using in the picture. With the old school problems, if the hold's good, it's probably off route.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Airation Buttress : Airation (5.11a)
By: Jay Knower When: Mar 13, 2014

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Comments: Thirty-seven feet? Given that I was finger jamming about every nine inches, and subtract the first five feet, that means I did over 40 jams in that length. That sounds about right. No wonder it seems taller.


Location: WI : Buildering Sites : Appleton (Peabody Park)
By: Jay Knower When: Mar 12, 2014

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Comments: This is a great spot to get a in quick workout. The bouldering traverses are nice and pumpy, though watch for broken glass on the edges. I spent many afternoons here, traversing around and around the pillars.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Storm Boulders : Ride the Lightning (V6) : Photo
By: Jay Knower When: Mar 3, 2014

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Comments: I bet that snow added a couple levels of difficulty to the topout. It's hard enough when it's dry!


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Welch and Dickie Area : Welch and Dickie Boulders : Mid Bowl : ... : Cheer Up Murray (V4)
By: Jay Knower When: Jan 28, 2014

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Comments: Here's a vid of Cheer Up Murray:




Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Sentinel Rock : Steck-Salathe (5.10-) : Photo
By: Jay Knower When: Dec 18, 2013

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Comments: Brings back (kinda) cool memories!


Location: NH : Photo
By: Jay Knower When: Dec 13, 2013

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Comments: Awesome!


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Welch and Dickie Area : Welch and Dickie Boulders : Lower Bowl : ... : The Shutdown (V5-6)
By: Jay Knower When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: The Shutdown:




Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Bald Knob : Yellowjacket Area : Yellowjacket Boulder : The Big Short (V5)
By: Jay Knower When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: Repeats this fall: Jay Conway (flash), Tim Jones, Francois Gauthier, and Tim Deroehn.


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Welch and Dickie Area : Welch and Dickie Boulders : Lower Bowl : ... : We Who Wander (V7)
By: Jay Knower When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: FA of We Who Wander:




Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Welch and Dickie Area : Welch and Dickie Boulders : Lower Bowl : ... : We Who Wander (V7)
By: Jay Knower When: Dec 3, 2013

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Comments: This problem saw a lot of action this fall--repeats by Jay Conway and Emmanuel Hudon, and an impressive flash by Tim DeRoehn.


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Bald Knob : Yellowjacket Area : Yellowjacket Boulderfield
By: Jay Knower When: Dec 2, 2013

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Comments: Here's another video of some problems in the boulderfield. Problems include: Logarithm, Logsplitter, Hatchet, The Steepness, Punch to the Face, Don't Jump!, Some Nights, Thank You for Holding, Hold Your Horses, Variance, Pop Goes the Weasel, and First Impressions.




Location: WI : Devil's Lake : East Bluff - East Rampart : Pedestal Buttress : All The Way (5.12b/c)
By: Jay Knower When: Nov 20, 2013

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Comments: Alright, I updated the description with the history I know about the route--JJ, I'd be interested to hear the other stories.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Thin Air (5.6) : Photo
By: Jay Knower When: Nov 20, 2013

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Comments:
Alex Madden wrote:
Well its only the first step in a long process to get cerified as a guide, the more advanced courses have higher requirements...


Good to know :)


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Thin Air (5.6) : Photo
By: Jay Knower When: Nov 20, 2013

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Comments: Thanks Clint. The link is informative, but it doesn't explain the reasoning. But you're right--I'll probably have to contact the AMGA for an answer. Seems a bit weird to me. If I hired a guide, I'd want him/her to be comfortable on a lot of rock, not just 5.6 and below.


Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : Thin Air Face : Thin Air (5.6) : Photo
By: Jay Knower When: Nov 20, 2013

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Comments: Hi Matt. I appreciate your thorough and well-reasoned response. I wonder, however, why the requirement for the instructor course is 5.6. It seems to me, that by having the requirement be 5.6, you're really narrowing your options on the cliff. And most of the pitches 5.6 and below tend to be really crowded anyway, which makes issues such as this more likely.


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Marsh Boulders : Boulder X (V6)
By: Jay Knower When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: Still don't believe it Lee. Smoke and mirrors!


Location: NH : Pawtuckaway : Boulder Natural : The Marsh Boulders : Boulder X (V6)
By: Jay Knower When: Nov 12, 2013

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Comments: For all of you who are saying you sent this problem: I don't believe you. Like the Loch Ness Monster, Bigfoot, and moderate Republicans, sends of Boulder X are pure myth.


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Bald Knob : Yellowjacket Area : Upper Cliff Area : ... : Sundays with Noah (V4-5)
By: Jay Knower When: Oct 11, 2013

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Comments: Good looking problem! Looks like cool, steep rock.


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Goodrich Rock Trail : Davis Boulders : Upper Davis : Squid Boulder
By: Jay Knower When: Oct 11, 2013

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Comments: I'm so glad these boulder problems got cleaned and climbed. That stem/corner feature on the backside is a really cool an unique. Nice work!


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Bald Knob : Yellowjacket Area : Yellowjacket Boulderfield : ... : First Impressions (V5)
By: Jay Knower When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: Well, if we're going to sandbag, let's just call it V1.


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Bald Knob : Yellowjacket Area : Yellowjacket Boulderfield : ... : First Impressions (V5)
By: Jay Knower When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: Tim, should we call it V4/5/5+ ?


Location: NH : Waterville Valley : Bald Knob : Yellowjacket Area : Yellowjacket Boulderfield : ... : USS Cyclops (V3-4)
By: Jay Knower When: Oct 1, 2013

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Comments: Sounds cool! Can't wait to try it.


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