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Member Since: May 23, 2003
Last Visit: Aug 4, 2010
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Point Rank: # 9,327
Total Points: 27
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 37 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 27 | Posts | Stars 8 | Ratings 2
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Mission Wall : Gneiss Roof (AKA: Nice Ride... (5.9+)
By: Jay Hippel When: Aug 4, 2010

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Comments: I agree with the 5.10 rating. The crux move above the roof reminded me of a dreaded, Eldorado "V Slot" with thin crimps and marginal feet underneath the slot. A very difficult move especially in a area that has generally moderate ratings; a few moves on this climb are more difficult than many Clear Creek 5.10s. The traverse on P4 is also a bit challenging. That said, it was a good and very interesting route.


Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Rock : The Eastern Front (5.8)
By: Jay Hippel When: Jul 25, 2010

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Comments: Climbed this and The Fiend yesterday. They are both very good, but this route is much more difficult and sustained than The Fiend. I would call it solid 5.9. We started in the corner and climbed out left from under the roof and were very pleased with the quality. But there are challenges all the way up, as opposed to The Fiend where you get past the roof and are cruising. Both are very good and worth a run, especially if you come down the trail and find a busy crag.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : J-Crack Slab Area : Pear Buttress (5.8)
By: Jay Hippel When: Jun 7, 2010

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Comments: The optional last pitch traverse out right and up from the cave is not hard and has acceptable gear- 5.6ish. I traversed right then around the corner and up; my partner followed right then straight up. Either way it is pretty fun and quick. Weather was threatening so I combined this with the 4th pitch- ok with some rope drag.


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Great Dihedral (5.7)
By: Jay Hippel When: Aug 9, 2005

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Comments: Well Anonymous Coward, I'm sorry I didn't like your "heart smile" route (sniffle, sniffle). I should hope one man's opinion doesn't stop you from doing all the grassy, slimy routes you'd like to accomplish in your lifetime. Knock yourself out, I guess I just like good rock when I'm rock climbing. Didn't mean to hurt your feelings.

To those who might consider this route: Climb it if you want, it doesn't matter to me. I've done a [handful] of alpine routes and was extremely excited when I laid ey... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Hallett Peak : Great Dihedral (5.7)
By: Jay Hippel When: Aug 7, 2005

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Comments: Did this route with the [Center Route] finish on 8/6/05.

First of all, DO NOT DO THIS ROUTE. It is awful and contains maybe 50ft of good rock. The rest was like climbing in a sporadically and badly protected garden. Moss, lichen and grass everywhere. The [Center Route] finish might have reached "bad" status if I'd had an entire rack of #6 Camalots and big bros. 30-40ft runouts (if you don't have enormous gear) on vegetated crap and a huge flake.

It was my first route on Hallett, and I sh... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab : Skimbleshanks (5.8)
By: Jay Hippel When: Jul 17, 2005

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Comments: Excellent route, especially for first time leaders. Very well protected and do-able with a 60m. Just tie a knot on the end.


Location: CO : South Platte : Goose Creek/Molly Gulch Cam... : Helen's Dome
By: Jay Hippel When: Jun 12, 2005

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Comments: Fractured Fairytales-Many of the bolts are indeed gone. In fact, MOST of the bolts on the upper 4 pitches have been removed. All the anchor bolts are still there, but pitches that used to have 7-8 bolts now only have 2 or so. 20ft runouts are now 40-60ft. There are a few places you can supplement with gear- nuts, cams (BD#.5-3) and slings(4ft) for trees. But mostly it's just run out. Why are there people out there who just can't let others enjoy themselves? Why must they ruin things for ev... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Pear : Magical Chrome Plated Semi-... (5.7)
By: Jay Hippel When: Nov 9, 2004

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Comments: Nice route, especially pitch 2. Good moderate, good pro and not very hard (5.7, I guess). The first pitch didn't seem too polished to me but is runout a tad to the belay. Still not that bad. Also- we moved our 4th belay about 25-30ft right into a corner for the summit pitch. Went straight up then around an overhang on the right. Nice move, pretty easy. Then just wanderered up and belayed near the top- watch out for rope drag and getting your rope caught in a crack. Good stuff all around.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Bypass (5.10)
By: Jay Hippel When: Jun 24, 2004

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Comments: You're not kidding. You damn near have to be gifted in the 5.11 realm to get up this one. Fun but very hard 10, 10d or 11a(?) through the roof section.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Too! (5.12a)
By: Jay Hippel When: Jun 24, 2004

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Comments: If "nice 5.11 crimps on slab" doesn't sound like a bowlful o' fun, the first 50ft pitch is sweet and juggy. At a nice 10c or d, it's just as good as P1 of Norwand. BUT I'm sure the rest is cool too.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger
By: Jay Hippel When: Jun 17, 2004

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Comments: The route between [Headline] (10a) and [Eiger Sanction] (10d) feels hard ten - 10c or 10d. When I climbed it, the guy that put it up was there too and wanted some rate opinions. I think hard ten for some thin moves in the middle. Nice climb.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Eiffel Tower (5.10d)
By: Jay Hippel When: Jun 17, 2004

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Comments: What I said in my previous post. It's for [Eiger Sanction] not [Eiffel Tower]. My bad. Hadn't climbed [Eiffel Tower], I'm sure it's cool.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : The Nordwand (5.11b/c)
By: Jay Hippel When: Jun 17, 2004

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Comments: 1st might be the most classic pitch on the whole wall. super sweet and juggy. absolutely beautiful climb. mid ten just for the top overhang. 10b or 10c.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Eiffel Tower (5.10d)
By: Jay Hippel When: Jun 16, 2004

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Comments: There is a slight runout between #4 and 5 but not to fear. It's the easiest section on the whole route. Agree with the rating. Good stuff and thin at the top with the high steps. Great route. Super well bolted. At least 10 bolts plus anchors.


Location: CO : South Platte : Pine Area : Sphinx Rock : Lickety Split (5.7 R)
By: Jay Hippel When: Jan 29, 2004

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Comments: There are no bolts for any belays on this route. 1st or second pitch. the first two bolts on the route are sorry as well, homemade with nails/pins. To reach the top you must have at least a 60m and belay at the top of the approach ramp before it gets steep. You can belay with small-med cams on top. This route is not for the faint of heart. Very runout to the first bolt. No handholds, just smearing feet. If you make for a hole 3/4 way up, you will miss a bolt but can get a #1 in the hole (i... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part A - Versc... : Verschneidung (5.7)
By: Jay Hippel When: Dec 8, 2003

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Comments: Great climb. You can get into the V-slot by traversing in from the right, not so awkward with good holds. There are also bolted rap anchors at the first and second belay.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Raise the Titanic (5.11b)
By: Jay Hippel When: Nov 21, 2003

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Comments: Much easier roof moves than Strange Cargo. Short & fun. Easy for the grade.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : The Owl (5.7)
By: Jay Hippel When: Sep 23, 2003

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Comments: I agree it seems like another classic boulder sandbag. Don't go climb 5.8's at Happy Hour and think you've got it easy. Great climb though. Bomber gear. Tricky but rewarding crux moves. Not a beginner climb, go do east slab.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon
By: Jay Hippel When: Sep 3, 2003

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Comments: What is the route across the creek from [Lost Angel]? slightly overhanging, good holds, the only route on the rock. It's between the [Plank Bridge] and [The Terrace] and a really great line. Name? Grade?


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : South Face (5.8)
By: Jay Hippel When: Aug 24, 2003

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Comments: Did this climb on 8/22/03. Good stuff. 8 pitches- ran 1 and 2 together. top pitches were sparse on gear placements and made things a bit sketchy 600 feet up. CLIMB FAST. We started early and moved way too slow. Started at 8am and summitted at about 4pm amidst thunder clouds. Take 2 ropes and rap down to the base. We only had 1 60m and had to rap 3 times then climb out The Gash. Hiked out the saddle and had to rappel 1 more time down a gully in andrews to get to the trail. This descent ... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Red Slab : Diamondback (5.10b)
By: Jay Hippel When: Jun 18, 2003

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Comments: Wonderful climb in every way. Easily three stars. Must do.


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Oceanic Wall : Leviathan (5.11d)
By: Jay Hippel When: Jun 13, 2003

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Comments: 1st pitch is a fun 10a if you're not an 11 climber, 35-40 feet.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The West Ridge : West Ridge - part E - top t... : Knight's Move (5.7)
By: Jay Hippel When: Jun 3, 2003

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Comments: Did this route on Sunday in 1 pitch, no problem. Placed 1 piece right before the traverse and put extra long runner on it. Traverse is easy with good holds, but getting up into the V-Slot is a bit scary and exposed. I am about at my trad limit at 7-8 and the crux was more than enough excitement, a fall would not have been nice. Belayed at tree and scrambled off top. Can you rap down to Chockstone and rap from there to the ground with a 60m rope? Rappelling is a better option if possible. ... more >>


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Wind Ridge (5.8)
By: Jay Hippel When: May 23, 2003

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Comments: Great climb, ran 1st 2 pitches into 1 with ease. 5.8 start is a piece of cake and the better start. This route takes as many small nuts as you can carry. Good stuff all around.


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Turret Dome : Schooldaze (5.5)
By: Jay Hippel When: May 23, 2003

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Comments: Very runout, especially the first & second pitch. We were off route most of the first pitches and created a crapload of ropedrag trying to get on-route. Did find a nice 5.7-5.8ish finger crack if you exit the belay under the roof about 20 or 30 yards up and left. The upper lip "5.7" crack is about as tough a "5.7" move as I've done, my second could not pull over the roof and it made for a not so pleasant time. I do not recommend the 5.7 crack finish to beginner leaders, it scared the crap ou... more >>


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