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On an early FA with Dick Tucker.


Member Since: Oct 18, 2008
Last Visit: Nov 6, 2014
Contact Jay Harrison


Point Rank: # 72
Total Points: 4,801
Last Year: 661
Last 30 Days: 113
43 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jay Harrison been climbing?










Contributions


All 1033 | Routes 260 | Areas 61 | Photos 241 | Page Improvements | Comments 81 | Posts 22 | Stars 315 | Ratings 53
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Boston (5.5 PG13)
By: Jay Harrison When: Nov 6, 2014

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Comments: Spoiler Alert:
One can do the "Z" Move extruding through the offset offwidth, which entails a crazy lot of effort and sketchy, strenuous gear, or...
Squirm up to the overhang, then reach up and out left on the face. Jugs, stems, and delight. Problem solved.
BITD, this was one of our standard TR setups for teaching newbies. Considering that we were not far graduated from their ranks, we were perhaps unqualified for the position. Anyway, we always squirmed, folded, and mutilated ourselves t... more >>


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Low Exposure (5.11-)
By: Jay Harrison When: Nov 6, 2014

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Comments: You can add a sit-start under the waist-high roof (or do it as a boulder problem). Just be sure there are no copperheads lying in wait under there! Awkward jamming, stems, and pressure holds.


Location: NY : The Gunks : The Trapps : a. The Uberfall : Junior (5.9+ R)
By: Jay Harrison When: Nov 6, 2014

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Comments: Historical Footnote: Bob Gilmore is 5'9", which makes that reach pretty desperate...but he has a mythological wingspan of 6'6", putting that key crimp well within his grasp.
Better known for his FA of The Sliding Board with Willie Crowther, Bob also explored a few Adirondack crags back in the day.


Location: MN : Winona, Sugar Loaf
By: Jay Harrison When: Oct 27, 2014

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Comments: My wife and I, still wet behind our ears in 1983, saw this formation and thought we were getting close to Devil's Tower! After assuring ourselves that Minnesota was a bit too wide for that, we took every turn leading toward the tower in sight, finally making it to Winona.
I recall soloing some peculiar, 3' deep, but only 6" thick, megashelves on the way up to the promontory. My wife chose a more sensible path. At the base of the tower, two guys were installing the lights that have since highligh... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Starbuck Mountain : Starbuck Right : ... : Gamma Ray Arete (5.9+)
By: Jay Harrison When: Sep 30, 2014

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Comments: The problem was that someone had removed the intermediate quicklinks from the system; people were therefore clipping into carabiners that were lying flat on the wall. During a rappel, the 'biners would torque off the surface, imparting a twist to the rope. If more anchor material disappears, it may be necessary to add your own, or (unfortunately) rap off a tree to prevent tangles...which is why removing said gear is not a good thing.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Lake George Region : Rogers Rock
By: Jay Harrison When: Jul 26, 2014

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Comments: FOUND: SHOES July 25. Msg me, call me, whatever. jayclimbs@yahoo.com
We were the last to leave the slab Friday 25th and this lonely pair was found.
ID 'em, come get 'em.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Belleview : ... : Le Jeur de Bon Heures (5.3 PG13)
By: Jay Harrison When: Jun 29, 2014

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Comments: Sorry for the long delay - I don't check in on all the route comments regularly.
The pro for LJdBH is decent: the first pitch is dirty, so you may have to pull some grass clumps to access good pockets; think Tricams and narrow-headed cams. Second pitch has a small spruce tree to sling near the start. Crux move is getting past it; I believe a cam can be had in the corner crack, but you may have to trust the tree to do the move. There's another 5.3 move pulling onto the main sl... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Caterpillar Cliff : Respirator (5.8)
By: Jay Harrison When: Jun 10, 2014

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Comments: Cleaned up, this would be recommended route. Given its remote location, climbers should expect unkempt conditions. The dead tree residue does detract, but that will wash away with time. One might be able to do the climb without risking lung & limb then.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Upper South Corner Cliffs
By: Jay Harrison When: May 14, 2014

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Comments: The "Upper South Corner" Cliffs have become quite developed since 2013. The various outcrops on the cliff now have different designations to help people find and figure out where they are. Where previously only adventurous, "alpine-style" routes wandered, there are now clusters of well-defined, lovingly scrubbed routes. A herd path branches off the East Path near the Height-of-Land Wall to reach the most popular crags up here.
Of particular note, the Jammer Wall has the highest concentration of ... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Crane Mountain : Southeast Slopes : ... : Photo
By: Jay Harrison When: Feb 21, 2014

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Comments: Yeah, this FA was just prior to my entrance into the digital era, and apparently Jason's also. I think it was that May that we got our first digital camera.
Nowadays, I take more butt-shots of my climbing partners in one week than I did in my entire life during the film era. Quantity has a quality all its own... (I think it was Trotsky who said that first?).


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Starbuck Mountain : Starbuck Right : Banana Almond Bread (WI4)
By: Jay Harrison When: Jan 23, 2014

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Comments: Lukasz or Ben: Is this the leftmost, long fat ice at Starbuck Right? It seems this route and the next are on the same flow, one taking the left notch, the other a more direct approach straight up the longest continuous flow on its right side. Is this correct? If so, did you send anything on the fat flow to the right (which goes through the summer route Perseiid)? There appear to be two possible rts there as well: the left going through a narrow curtain/pillar up a bulging face, the righ... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Height Of Land Walls : Spiral Staircase (5.6)
By: Jay Harrison When: Apr 17, 2013

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Comments: This needs to be cleaned again. Some of the detritus scraped off Misty Mtn Hop landed in this route's main feature.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Height Of Land Walls : Misty Mountain Hop (5.8)
By: Jay Harrison When: Apr 17, 2013

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Comments: This is filthy, otherwise it would warrant a couple stars.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Measles Walls : ... : Photo
By: Jay Harrison When: Apr 11, 2013

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Comments: The right flank of the Lower Measles Wall currently (2013) holds the only collection of 100% bolted (i.e. "Sport") routes on Crane Mountain. And they are pretty sporty at that: improper clipping or belay can result in ground falls. In general, do NOT attempt to clip a bolt unless your feet are solid (good luck with that here), and do NOT attempt clipping overhead - very, very bad idea in most cases. And belay studiously.
Please be aware that these routes are HARD for most folks on their first vi... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Diagonal Ramp Wall
By: Jay Harrison When: Apr 11, 2013

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Comments: Thank you, Ken, this is correct. Honestly, the nomenclature for the summit cliffs is awful. The Summit's Diagonal Wall turns out to be little more than a boundary between two other areas, across which at least one route goes - meaning it traverses *3* "walls". It's a symptom of the haphazard development up there over two decades. We hope to remedy that problem before the next edition of the Adirondack Rock Guidebook.
The Diagonal Ramp Wall is an appropria... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Starbuck Mountain : Starbuck Central : Photo
By: Jay Harrison When: Mar 22, 2013

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Comments: This is Starbuck Central's Right end. Routes are between 60 and 80' tall.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : ... : Photo
By: Jay Harrison When: Mar 11, 2013

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Comments: Good beta photo for several routes:

-The left-facing corner at the end of the traverse of Outpatient (and a variation to Recuperation Bvd) is visible on the left side of the photo.

- The vertical crack directly below the outside corner belongs to Adk Rehab

- The vertical seam to right of center marks Scaredy Cat

- and the long vertical crack on the right edge of the photo is Lane Change.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : ... : Photo
By: Jay Harrison When: Jan 14, 2013

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Comments: Kudos on this pic, Ben. It's gorgeous.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : ... : Photo
By: Jay Harrison When: Jan 14, 2013

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Comments: There is no variation of this route beginning below the Patio.
The Direct Variation is (IMHO) 5.12a and begins at the Patio directly below the route's crack line. Climb up the short slab to reach the beginning of the crack - here it is more of a seam - and continue all the way up. The beginning 15' are very technical & sequential. The pro, while adequate, is very strenuous to place and requires care and skill to place properly. One placement is effectively blind, and is critical to do right. Imp... more >>


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Nameless Knob : Riverside : Nameless Right (WI2)
By: Jay Harrison When: Jan 8, 2013

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Comments: Recently climbed this (1/6/2013); the last 8' was mud covered by 10" of snow. The heavy snowfall is insulating the ground, preventing good freezing.
The upcoming thaw will no doubt change conditions for awhile.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Nameless Knob : Highside : Square Falls (WI3+ M5)
By: Jay Harrison When: Jan 8, 2013

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Comments: Mike Prince, Tom Lane, & I went up here late Dec. 2012. All of Square Falls was coated with a thin layer of ice, so while pro would've been impossible, the climbing was pretty easy. Probably WI 4- "X".
The thaw coming this week may mess things up, but with the abundant snowcover, there's a good chance all will heal if we don't get too much rain and return to cold temps quickly.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Adirondack Ice Climbing : Crane Mountain : Southeast Slopes : West Coast Connection (WI4- M4 PG13)
By: Jay Harrison When: Jan 7, 2013

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Comments: Great to see this getting done. What brought you to Crane? Did you get a chance to climb Providence and Fifi's as well?


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Height Of Land Walls : Raindance Roof (5.8 PG13)
By: Jay Harrison When: Dec 24, 2012

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Comments: The "sketchy" spot does have fairly decent pro if you have the right cam and search around.
V2 is excellent, sustained 5.6 climbing with decent gear; just needs better cleanup at the start.


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Side Show (5.10a/b)
By: Jay Harrison When: Dec 21, 2012

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Comments: Despite the contrived nature of this line, it is excellent. Somebody do this and let us know what you think of it!


Location: NY : Adirondacks : Indian Lake Region : Crane Mountain : Black Arches Wall : Four Ounces to Freedom (5.12d)
By: Jay Harrison When: Dec 21, 2012

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Comments: Not that I am aware of. I'm thinking of projecting it for 2013 season. TR it until I can do it. Might be a good way to break that 5.11 barrier. Or break me, which is more likely!


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