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Berlin


Member Since: Feb 5, 2003
Last Visit: 4 hours ago
Contact Jay Eggleston


Point Rank: # 21
Total Points: 11,783
Last Year: 2,006
Last 30 Days: 176
58 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jay Eggleston been climbing?










Contributions


All 5182 | Routes 115 | Areas 8 | Photos 1977 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 616 | Posts 207 | Stars 1601 | Ratings 654
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Cats vs. Dogs Wall : Top Dawg (5.10b)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Oct 15, 2014

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Comments: This pitch is short, but it is fun if you want something more challenging than "Purrrfect Puppy ". The holds at the crux are not obvious but are very good once you locate them. The crux feet are poor. The third bolt is hard to see from below. It is only 5 or so feet above the second bolt.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum : Handcrack-a-rete (5.7+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: This is a great crack climb! On pitch two, there is gear other than the bolt if you wish to place any going up the arÍte. I placed two small cams and a nut besides clipping the bolt.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : The Coliseum : Hollow Man (5.8)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Oct 6, 2014

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Comments: This is a great route! The 5.8 slab looks like it will be difficult, but holds appear when things seem like they will be difficult.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Cats vs. Dogs Wall : The Purrrfect Puppy (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Oct 1, 2014

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Comments: This route is easy but is really fun and is a good warm up for the wall.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Get A Life (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Oct 1, 2014

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Comments: "Get a Life" does go to the left. "Get Insurance" is what you probably did.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Cats vs. Dogs Wall : Stray Cat (5.8)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Oct 1, 2014

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Comments: I think this has cleaned up a lot, and all the rock seems good now.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Canyon Block
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 26, 2014

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Comments: If you see "Long Walk Rock" on the approach, you have gone too far. You can't see the rock on the approach, but you want to cut right when it does not seem like you are in a gully anymore.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Canyon Block : Shallow Jam (5.10a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 26, 2014

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Comments: The protection on this is not great. There is gear but not a lot and not always when you want it. You don't jam very much in this crack. Things get easier near the top.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Canyon Block : Scorcher (5.9+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 26, 2014

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Comments: The end of the crack is the most difficult. The crack pushes you to the left when you want to jam straight in. The cold shut anchor would be good after a lead, but to top rope it is easier to set an anchor above.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cenotaph Crag : Five Eight Crack (5.8)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 24, 2014

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Comments: I don't think this deserves a bomb, but it is not great. Maybe a good warm-up for the crag, but it is not a destination climb. The crux is near the top, and the rest felt about 5.7 in difficulty.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cenotaph Spire : Harebell (5.10- PG13)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 24, 2014

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Comments: This is a fun climb, but it is awkward below the second bolt. The holds here are small and the move committing. I think it may feel harder than 10- for some. I saw a new sequence I will do at the crux if I ever do it again.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cenotaph Crag : Right to Life (5.9+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 21, 2014

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Comments: Others called this route "dirty" in the past. It is not very dirty right now. I agree with the "off camber" comment though. The crux is near the top but only a few moves in length.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cenotaph Crag : Apparition (5.11a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 21, 2014

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Comments: I think this is 11a, but the crux is short and near the top. Lower, the route is easier but still hard 5.10.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cenotaph Crag : Ethereal (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 21, 2014

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Comments: This is more fun than the other 5.9 at the cliff.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cenotaph Crag : Going Down In it (5.9+ X)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 21, 2014

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Comments: I top roped this, and I saw no gear placements at the bottom as is described above. The climbing is kind of fun, but the route is very short.


Location: CO : Golden : Lover's Leap on Beaver Broo... : ABBA (5.8 PG13)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: This is still pretty dirty, and it is barely worth doing. There are a few fun moves in the dihedral but not many.


Location: CO : Golden : Lover's Leap on Beaver Broo... : BB Brain (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: I don't know how you would blow the clip above the ledge. If you made it this far, you have already done some hard climbing, and you should not blow this clip.


Location: CO : Golden : Lover's Leap on Beaver Broo... : Bed And Breakfast (5.8)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: This is a fun route but is more difficult than it appears from below. It was not as easy as I thought it would be while looking at it. The crux is short though, and I think it is worthwhile.


Location: CO : Golden : Lover's Leap on Beaver Broo... : Black And Blue (5.11-)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: I found the kneebar, but my partner did the first crux move without using it, and he climbed it better than I did. This is a good route, but the slab above has some small holds to negotiate.


Location: CO : Golden : Lover's Leap on Beaver Broo... : BB King (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: This was the most difficult of the three 9s on the face, but I don't think it is a 10. I gave it a 9+ rating. It is safely bolted and fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Couch Fire Crag : Sofa Mart (5.11a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 10, 2014

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Comments: The holds in the middle of this are "jugs", but the holds at the top and the bottom are small.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Couch Fire Crag : Recliner (5.10a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 10, 2014

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Comments: This is a 5.10, but you have to think carefully about the moves before you commit to them. You can get to the top to set up a top rope without climbing the 5.4, but it is easy to climb if you want to.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Couch Fire Crag : Footstool (5.4)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 10, 2014

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Comments: This is easier than the hike, but it was harder than 5.4 for me due to wet rock.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Crandall Hammer Arete (5.11a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 31, 2014

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Comments: I agree with the 11a rating of this. The hard moves are only in a short section of the climb.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Man Hands (5.10d)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 31, 2014

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Comments: The crack on this is great! Really fun . The seam is just " ok".


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