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Berlin


Member Since: Feb 5, 2003
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact Jay Eggleston


Point Rank: # 21
Total Points: 11,256
Last Year: 1,998
Last 30 Days: 168
53 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jay Eggleston been climbing?










Contributions


All 4965 | Routes 104 | Areas 7 | Photos 1904 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 585 | Posts 192 | Stars 1553 | Ratings 618
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Hands Off (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 22, 2014

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Comments: Many people mention stemming the crux. I did not stem, and it still felt 5.7 for difficulty. There is good pro the whole way and interesting climbing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Truth or Consequences Crag ... : Speak Softly (5.10d)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 16, 2014

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Comments: This crack is not a good climb. There are loose blocks in the crack, and the pro is not good near the bottom. I top roped it. A lead would be scary!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Truth or Consequences Crag ... : Jamie (5.10)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 16, 2014

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Comments: This is a good climb, but it feels difficult for a 10c. There are no good rests in the upper crack. Be prepared for difficulty.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Truth or Consequences Crag ... : Elegant Peasant (5.10)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: This is called "Elegant Pleasure" in the new D'Antonio guide, but it is called "Elegant Peasant" in the Rolofson and Rossiter guides. It takes mostly small cams and nuts for protection.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Russian Arete (5.8 R)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 13, 2014

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Comments: It's a little sketchy getting to the bolt anchor on Lips Like Sugar. You can place pro and down climb if you are leading, but following, you are above the anchor as you downclimb to lower off.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Uninspiring Wall (5.5)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 13, 2014

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Comments: In the Steve Levin guidebook, it shows the route going straight up over the roof following a thin crack. The line drawn in the photo on this site shows the route going to the right of the roof. We went over the roof at the crack, and it felt about 5.5 in difficulty.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Palisade Mountain : Horseshead : Eagle's Beak (5.10c)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: There is a bolt anchor above the chimney on what is described as pitch 2.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Palisade Mountain : Horseshead : Glue Factory (5.8-)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: You can go left at the top and use the bolt anchor on De- Virginizing Stud Pony.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Devil's Head Rock : DH-20 (an unknown 5.10 Crac... (5.10 PG13)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 3, 2014

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Comments: This really is a great route and deserves the four stars given to it in the newest South Platte guidebook. If you are in the area you should do it! I thought the crack went from big to small, it kind of does, so I tried to conserve my gear for when it was really needed. I had 2 #3 Camalots left that I did not place low, and I found places for them up high where the crack is mainly finger-sized.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Devil's Head Rock : Double Cracks (5.8+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 3, 2014

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Comments: There are now carabiners on the bolt hangers if you wish to rap the first pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Truth or Consequences Crag ... : Unnamed (5.11-)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 1, 2014

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Comments: I too thought this route was easier than 5.11. I think it is a little harder than 10a but not much. You make a difficult move, and then it is over.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Truth or Consequences Crag ... : Truth Serum (5.7 R)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 1, 2014

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Comments: This is not much taller than a boulder problem, but it is somewhat taller. I found a few good pieces of pro. I placed two nuts which seemed "bomber".


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mindless Cliff : Quick Chill (5.9 PG13)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 31, 2014

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Comments: This route has an obvious bolt anchor, so there is no need to anchor to a tree as described in the description.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mind Shaft Cliff : Mind Shaft Crack Left (5.10c)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 29, 2014

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Comments: This route probably is not "10c", but it is certainly harder than the 5.8 shown in the D'Antonio guide.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Across from The Bihedral ak... : Unknown 9 aka Side Dish (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: I think the crux on this is right by the 3rd bolt. I was surprised how easy it felt between the 2nd and 3rd bolt after having read the description on here.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Garden Wall : Shady Boy (5.10c)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: I agree that getting past the first bolt is the crux. I tried both to the left and the right and both ways, despite Leo's comment, seemed difficult.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Garden Wall : Photo
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 23, 2014

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Comments: This now looks like it is bolted!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Garden Wall
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 23, 2014

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Comments: Does anyone know how hard the route to the left of Shady Boy is? I have not done it, but I wish I knew what it is.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Garden Wall : Shady Girl (5.10c)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 23, 2014

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Comments: I thought this route was about 10c in difficulty. It is definitely harder than 10a!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Twitch Rock : G'Owen Rogue (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 17, 2014

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Comments: This route is fun, but it drips water for awhile after a rain storm. Also, it would be great if the slings were replaced with chains. They have a date of 2005 marked on them, and they will not last forever. I would do it if I had more time on my hands, but I do not, and it really needs to be done to make the anchor safe. I thought the top, below the anchors, was difficult, but this was mostly due to wet rock.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Garden Wall : Shady Baby (5.9+ PG13)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 15, 2014

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Comments: This route has not been cleaned very much. It still has vegetation in the crack. It can be top roped after doing one of the nearby sport routes, but there is no safe and easy way to set up a top rope otherwise.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Cats vs. Dogs Wall : Beer for Life (5.11-)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 9, 2014

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Comments: This is a fun climb, and I think it is easier than "Into the Black" to the right. I am glad there are consensus ratings on Mountain Project. I don't think this is quite an "11" for difficulty. It is a hard "10".


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Cats vs. Dogs Wall : Into the Black (5.10+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 9, 2014

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Comments: Did this for the second time today and the start is still pretty hard. It was a little easier than last time but not much. I think it is about 11a for difficulty.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Old Dihedral (5.8)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 1, 2014

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Comments: I agree that it is easier than Crack Corner to the left.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Crack Corner (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 1, 2014

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Comments: I did not see the comment above about anchors being added, so we used the anchor on Triple Play.


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