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Berlin


Member Since: Feb 5, 2003
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact Jay Eggleston


Point Rank: # 21
Total Points: 11,172
Last Year: 2,049
Last 30 Days: 123
53 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jay Eggleston been climbing?










Contributions


All 4924 | Routes 103 | Areas 7 | Photos 1891 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 576 | Posts 191 | Stars 1544 | Ratings 610
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Devil's Head Rock : Double Cracks (5.8+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 3, 2014

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Comments: There are now carabiners on the bolt hangers if you wish to rap the first pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Truth or Consequences Crag ... : Unnamed (5.11-)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 1, 2014

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Comments: I too thought this route was easier than 5.11. I think it is a little harder than 10a but not much. You make a difficult move, and then it is over.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Truth or Consequences Crag ... : Truth Serum (5.7 R)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 1, 2014

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Comments: This is not much taller than a boulder problem, but it is somewhat taller. I found a few good pieces of pro. I placed two nuts which seemed "bomber".


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mindless Cliff : Quick Chill (5.9 PG13)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 31, 2014

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Comments: This route has an obvious bolt anchor, so there is no need to anchor to a tree as described in the description.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mind Shaft Cliff : Mind Shaft Crack Left (5.10c)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 29, 2014

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Comments: This route probably is not "10c", but it is certainly harder than the 5.8 shown in the D'Antonio guide.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Across from The Bihedral ak... : Unknown 9 aka Side Dish (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 28, 2014

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Comments: I think the crux on this is right by the 3rd bolt. I was surprised how easy it felt between the 2nd and 3rd bolt after having read the description on here.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Garden Wall : Shady Boy (5.10c)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: I agree that getting past the first bolt is the crux. I tried both to the left and the right and both ways, despite Leo's comment, seemed difficult.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Garden Wall : Photo
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 23, 2014

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Comments: This now looks like it is bolted!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Garden Wall
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 23, 2014

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Comments: Does anyone know how hard the route to the left of Shady Boy is? I have not done it, but I wish I knew what it is.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Garden Wall : Shady Girl (5.10c)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 23, 2014

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Comments: I thought this route was about 10c in difficulty. It is definitely harder than 10a!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Twitch Rock : G'Owen Rogue (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 17, 2014

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Comments: This route is fun, but it drips water for awhile after a rain storm. Also, it would be great if the slings were replaced with chains. They have a date of 2005 marked on them, and they will not last forever. I would do it if I had more time on my hands, but I do not, and it really needs to be done to make the anchor safe. I thought the top, below the anchors, was difficult, but this was mostly due to wet rock.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Garden Wall : Shady Baby (5.9+ PG13)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 15, 2014

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Comments: This route has not been cleaned very much. It still has vegetation in the crack. It can be top roped after doing one of the nearby sport routes, but there is no safe and easy way to set up a top rope otherwise.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Cats vs. Dogs Wall : Beer for Life (5.11-)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 9, 2014

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Comments: This is a fun climb, and I think it is easier than "Into the Black" to the right. I am glad there are consensus ratings on Mountain Project. I don't think this is quite an "11" for difficulty. It is a hard "10".


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Cats vs. Dogs Wall : Into the Black (5.10+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 9, 2014

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Comments: Did this for the second time today and the start is still pretty hard. It was a little easier than last time but not much. I think it is about 11a for difficulty.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Old Dihedral (5.8)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 1, 2014

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Comments: I agree that it is easier than Crack Corner to the left.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Crack Corner (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 1, 2014

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Comments: I did not see the comment above about anchors being added, so we used the anchor on Triple Play.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Quarry : Chockstone Chimney (5.7+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jun 21, 2014

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Comments: This is fun, easier climb on The Quarry Wall. I recommend it.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Quarry : River Dance (5.8)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jun 21, 2014

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Comments: I only used a 0.75 Camalot on this route. Nothing else except the bolts. I think the 2nd bolt protects a bad fall potential. There is gear above, but it would be a bolder lead without the second bolt. I almost missed the 3rd bolt. You can place a cam nearby. This is the only bolt I think did not need to be placed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lion's Den : Tall Talking Midget (5.11d)
By: Jay Eggleston When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: This looks doable from the bottom, but my partner and I both gave up after several top-rope attempts.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winter Warmer Area : Polar Sandals (5.10)
By: Jay Eggleston When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: This route is a fun climb, but I think it is harder than 10-. I think it is 10c/d. The starting dihedral is definitely not 10- unless I really missed something. Regardless, I enjoyed the route.


Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Jackson Creek : The Taj Mahal : Too Young to Fly (5.10c)
By: Jay Eggleston When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: This is called "Too Young to Fly" in the Jason Haas guidebook. The name on here should be changed. Haas says to bring 2 #1 and #2 Camalots, but we used three #2s and two #3s. He says to rack up to a #3 but does not mention 2. The crack takes nuts in many places as well.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Real Hidden Valley : Real Hidden Valley : Debra (5.10b)
By: Jay Eggleston When: May 15, 2014

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Comments: This is certainly harder than 10b. It may be about 10d, but it is quite a surprise when you think it will be easier. The holds are not obvious at the crux, and you don't really have time to figure things out if you are trying to on-sight the route. The route is good, but like many routes on this wall, it is harder than originally rated.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Real Hidden Valley : Upper Wall : Battle of the Bulge (5.12-)
By: Jay Eggleston When: May 14, 2014

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Comments: The roof at the first bolt is certainly the crux. The route is easier above, yet still difficult and holds do "appear" when you really want them.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Real Hidden Valley : Upper Wall : Tetherly Designs (5.10-)
By: Jay Eggleston When: May 14, 2014

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Comments: The crux on this is really short, maybe one move. I used a #1 and a #1.5 Friend in the cracks near the top. This is short yet amusing. This shares an anchor with Battle of the Bulge.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Real Hidden Valley : Upper Wall : Streakers (5.10 PG13)
By: Jay Eggleston When: May 6, 2014

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Comments: I climbed this line moving left of the bolts. Maybe I was too far left yet I could have still clipped the bolts. I was top roping on a fixed line, so maybe I was braver than if I had been leading.


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