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Member Since: Feb 5, 2003
Last Visit: 45 mins ago
Contact Jay Eggleston

Point Rank: # 18
Total Points: 12,939
Last Year: 2,027
Last 30 Days: 466
90 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jay Eggleston been climbing?










Contributions


All 5603 | Routes 133 | Areas 10 | Photos 2151 | Page Improvements 6 | Comments 686 | Posts 219 | Stars 1687 | Ratings 711
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : A. Jericho : Fit the Battle (5.6)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 29, 2015

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Comments: The crux seems to be at the start. The only protection here seems to be in a crack to the right of the main crack where a small cam will fit. Most of the crack seemed easier than 5.6 but was still fun.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : A. Jericho : Fit the Battle (5.6)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: There is nothing to lower off of at the anchor bolts, but it is easy to walk off to climber's right of the route.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : A. Jericho : The Horns of Jericho (5.5)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: This route has four bolts, not three. All four are easily seen from the bottom. There is nothing to lower from on the anchor bolts, but it is easy to walk up or down to climber's right.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : A. East Wall : Zion Train (5.10a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: This is a fun climb. The crux is short, but it takes some thought to climb it. The upper slab could use some moss/ lichen scrubbing if anyone ever has a brush with them as they climb.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : A. East Wall : ... : Photo
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: The actual crux seems like it is a body length higher.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : B. Recessed Slab : Don't Rock My Boat (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: I think the 2nd pitch is slightly easier than the first, but there is not much difference between 5.7 and 5.7+. If you really want to top rope the 2nd pitch, you can reach the top by hiking up from the west. You might as well lead it though. I was by myself, so I top roped it, but it would be easy to lead.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Bailey's Overhang (5.8)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: The last comment says you can place #2s, but I had two and did not use either. Small cams, a #3, and a #4 are what I used, and there are also good nuts. I did this climb in 1996, and it was fun to do it again in 2015. Makes me feel old....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : Momentum Operator (5.11a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: The exit is pretty wild in that it involves a strange technique. It is easier than the crux cracks below. The route is fun, but the hard part is short.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : Crack Up (5.9+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: There is only one area with guano on this at the moment, and it is avoidable. This climb is hard for 5.9, but most 9+ climbs do feel pretty difficult.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : South Beach (5.10-)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: This route is harder than 10-. I agree that it is about 10b in difficulty. The crux is near the third bolt.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : Muad'Dib (5.10-)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: The area by the second bolt is certainly the crux. The moves are not obvious, and it takes some thought to figure out the best sequence. The steep part up high is strenuous but not that hard.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : B. Recessed Slab : Don't Rock My Boat (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 4, 2015

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Comments: There are actually 11 bolts on the first pitch. The last one before the anchors can be easily and safely skipped. The first 10 are useful.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : B. Recessed Slab : My Feet is My Only Carriage (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments: This feels a little easier than the bolted line to its right. It will clean up over time, but it still has lichen/moss on it. The route is fun, and the protection seemed good.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : B. Recessed Slab : Cornmeal Porridge (5.7+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments: This route is fun. There is lots of lichen. I would have helped clean the rock, but I did not have a brush. Look hard for the best holds, because some are hidden and not obvious.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : C. Middle and West Walls : Lyin' Like a Lion (in Zion) (5.10b)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 29, 2015

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Comments: This route is enjoyable once you figure out the difficult crux at the bottom. There is a great jug by the second bolt, but getting to it is not easy. Make sure you are warmed up before doing this climb.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : C. Middle and West Walls : Buffalo Soldier (5.10c)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 29, 2015

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Comments: The transition over the overhang to the face above is certainly the crux. There is one good hold here, but it is committing to bring your feet up and over. This is certainly a fun route.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : C. Middle and West Walls : The Belay Brothers Bounce B... (5.8+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 29, 2015

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Comments: The crux is definitely near the bottom, as described in the description. The route is fun, and it is a good warm up before doing harder routes in the area.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winter Warmer Area : Ascending Order (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 26, 2015

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Comments: This route is fun, but there is lots of not so good rock just prior to the offwidth. I broke of several holds which I thought might be good for the hands. The route is worth doing if you have done the other ones in the same area.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Sports Wall : Rufus' Roof Variation aka C... (5.10)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 18, 2015

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Comments: At the crux, the crack is 0.4 Camalot-sized. I placed mine earlier and wish I would have had two of them at the crux.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Sports Wall : Happiness of Pursuit (5.10b PG13)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 18, 2015

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Comments: The move above the pin is not easy. The guidebook description made it sound like it would be. If you bring gear, it is not PG-13. Gear up to a #2 Camalot is good. Small cams before the first bolt.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : Fat Lipped Gofur (5.8-)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 6, 2015

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Comments: This has ten bolts if anyone is wondering. The crux is at the last bolt. Big jugs but overhanging.


Location: CO : Golden : Lover's Leap on Beaver Broo... : Short, Sweet Crack (5.5 R)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Feb 28, 2015

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Comments: Where is this? A description would be nice.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Uncompahgre Gorge aka Ouray... : South Park
By: Jay Eggleston When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: This is one of the few areas open at the moment. The climbs are thinner than usual but are still fun. They don't look a lot like many of the pictures on here.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Crosier Mountain Crags : Main Crag : ... : Photo
By: Jay Eggleston When: Feb 17, 2015

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Comments: I did not start the fire.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : A Little Piece of South Dak...
By: Jay Eggleston When: Feb 16, 2015

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Comments: It's too bad there is no Tyrol allowed by Jeffco. This crag is kind of fun and would be more popular if access was not so difficult.


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