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Berlin


Member Since: Feb 5, 2003
Last Visit: 21 mins ago
Contact Jay Eggleston

Point Rank: # 19
Total Points: 12,519
Last Year: 1,722
Last 30 Days: 143
82 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jay Eggleston been climbing?










Contributions


All 5507 | Routes 121 | Areas 8 | Photos 2099 | Page Improvements 5 | Comments 679 | Posts 218 | Stars 1670 | Ratings 707
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : Momentum Operator (5.11a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: The exit is pretty wild in that it involves a strange technique. It is easier than the crux cracks below. The route is fun, but the hard part is short.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : Crack Up (5.9+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: There is only one area with guano on this at the moment, and it is avoidable. This climb is hard for 5.9, but most 9+ climbs do feel pretty difficult.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : South Beach (5.10-)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: This route is harder than 10-. I agree that it is about 10b in difficulty. The crux is near the third bolt.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : Muad'Dib (5.10-)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: The area by the second bolt is certainly the crux. The moves are not obvious, and it takes some thought to figure out the best sequence. The steep part up high is strenuous but not that hard.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : B. Recessed Slab : Don't Rock My Boat (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 4, 2015

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Comments: There are actually 11 bolts on the first pitch. The last one before the anchors can be easily and safely skipped. The first 10 are useful.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : B. Recessed Slab : My Feet is My Only Carriage (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments: This feels a little easier than the bolted line to its right. It will clean up over time, but it still has lichen/moss on it. The route is fun, and the protection seemed good.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : B. Recessed Slab : Cornmeal Porridge (5.7+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments: This route is fun. There is lots of lichen. I would have helped clean the rock, but I did not have a brush. Look hard for the best holds, because some are hidden and not obvious.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : C. Middle and West Walls : Lyin' Like a Lion (in Zion) (5.10b)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 29, 2015

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Comments: This route is enjoyable once you figure out the difficult crux at the bottom. There is a great jug by the second bolt, but getting to it is not easy. Make sure you are warmed up before doing this climb.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : C. Middle and West Walls : Buffalo Soldier (5.10c)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 29, 2015

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Comments: The transition over the overhang to the face above is certainly the crux. There is one good hold here, but it is committing to bring your feet up and over. This is certainly a fun route.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : C. Middle and West Walls : The Belay Brothers Bounce B... (5.8+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 29, 2015

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Comments: The crux is definitely near the bottom, as described in the description. The route is fun, and it is a good warm up before doing harder routes in the area.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winter Warmer Area : Ascending Order (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 26, 2015

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Comments: This route is fun, but there is lots of not so good rock just prior to the offwidth. I broke of several holds which I thought might be good for the hands. The route is worth doing if you have done the other ones in the same area.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Sports Wall : Rufus' Roof Variation aka C... (5.10)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 18, 2015

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Comments: At the crux, the crack is 0.4 Camalot-sized. I placed mine earlier and wish I would have had two of them at the crux.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Sports Wall : Happiness of Pursuit (5.10b PG13)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 18, 2015

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Comments: The move above the pin is not easy. The guidebook description made it sound like it would be. If you bring gear, it is not PG-13. Gear up to a #2 Camalot is good. Small cams before the first bolt.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : Fat Lipped Gofur (5.8-)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 6, 2015

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Comments: This has ten bolts if anyone is wondering. The crux is at the last bolt. Big jugs but overhanging.


Location: CO : Golden : Lover's Leap on Beaver Broo... : Short, Sweet Crack (5.5 R)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Feb 28, 2015

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Comments: Where is this? A description would be nice.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Uncompahgre Gorge aka Ouray... : South Park
By: Jay Eggleston When: Feb 23, 2015

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Comments: This is one of the few areas open at the moment. The climbs are thinner than usual but are still fun. They don't look a lot like many of the pictures on here.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Crosier Mountain Crags : Main Crag : ... : Photo
By: Jay Eggleston When: Feb 17, 2015

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Comments: I did not start the fire.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : A Little Piece of South Dak...
By: Jay Eggleston When: Feb 16, 2015

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Comments: It's too bad there is no Tyrol allowed by Jeffco. This crag is kind of fun and would be more popular if access was not so difficult.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Crosier Mountain Crags : Main Crag : Squat Tower (5.10a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Feb 15, 2015

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Comments: My partner took a fall at the 2nd bolt on the 2nd pitch when a foothold knob broke off. I don't think the route got any harder, but you should be alert for fragile holds.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Crosier Mountain Crags : Main Crag : Shorty's Dilemma (5.9-)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Feb 15, 2015

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Comments: If you are short, the dilemma seems to be reaching a good hold by the second bolt. The route is not super hard, but it makes you think hard at the crux.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Crosier Mountain Crags : Main Crag : Knob Walk (5.4)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Feb 15, 2015

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Comments: This is a nice warm-up route, but I think it is a little more difficult than 5.4. It's nice you have a warm-up right at hand when you reach the rock.


Location: CO : Boulder
By: Jay Eggleston When: Feb 11, 2015

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Comments: The popular areas are not covered in snow right now, but they may be in April. The snow only takes a day or two to melt. We have lots of sunshine here. I rock climb year round outdoors in CO, but it may snow when you are here.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : Br'er Bear (5.10)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Feb 6, 2015

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Comments: To me, the crux on this was the first 10'. There is a good layback crack to the right where the holds are not really jugs in the crux area.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : Curious George Goes Climbin... (5.11)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Feb 6, 2015

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Comments: This route does have big holds. It is steep! The crux move is a really long move, but it is fun.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : Hamster Huey (5.10c)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jan 28, 2015

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Comments: The holds in the crux area are big, but it is steep, and you don't have a lot of time to find the best ones. It is a short crux, but the route is fun.


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