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Berlin


Member Since: Feb 5, 2003
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Jay Eggleston


Point Rank: # 21
Total Points: 10,889
Last Year: 2,212
Last 30 Days: 114
51 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jay Eggleston been climbing?










Contributions


All 4767 | Routes 102 | Areas 7 | Photos 1843 | Page Improvments 1 | Comments 547 | Posts 189 | Stars 1504 | Ratings 574
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab : Rumple Teaser (5.10b)
By: Jay Eggleston When: May 1, 2014

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Comments: I thought this route was 10- as well. There are lots of slab moves and the route is fun. There are not many huge jugs so a new slab climber may find it more challenging.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Road Rock : Road Trip (5.10)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 29, 2014

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Comments: This is a fun route. It still contains lots of moss, but most of the moves are clean. I think the bolts start in a logical place. The crack pinches down as it gets higher.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab : Old Deuteronomy (5.10a/b)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 25, 2014

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Comments: This is a fun route! The beginning crux is very short and is over quickly. I have to agree with the comments above about how "neat" the crystals are on the upper face.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Myth Rock : Thor (5.11+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: The newest D'Antonio guidebook shows this having 8 bolts and continuing up the arÍte to the right of the start. My partner only climbed past the first two bolts. You could see the bolts up high when we were there. I did not see anchor bolts up top, but you could use the tree above Mithril to descend.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Myth Rock : Excalibur (5.11b)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: This is my favorite route at this crag. The crux, down low, takes a lot of strength. Up high there is another hard move, maybe 10d, in the dihedral. We did it in one pitch, skipping the anchor on the ledge.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Myth Rock : Mjolnir (5.10c)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: This is a fun route and both me and my partner thought it was easier than the 10a to the left. I guess people's strengths vary.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Myth Rock : Myth of Freedom (5.10a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: Both my partner and I thought this was harder than 10a and more difficult than the 10c to the right. My partner climbs much harder climbs and so have I in the past. The route is not bad, but don't expect it to be an easy romp.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Myth Rock : Mithril (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: I added webbing and a biner to the tree today (there was none there). I only had one sling to leave. The climb is fun, but the crux is really short. I used a #2, #3, and #4 Camalots in the crux area. I placed a #1 both above and below. You can easily do the climb as one pitch.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Prestige Worldwide Wall : Big Ellie's Little Crack (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: This is a fun route, but it only has one interesting move. You need protection up to a #2 Camalot. You could place two #2s, but one is enough to bring. The crack is mainly #0.75 Camalot sized. There is a place for a #1. I do not recommend this as a destination climb, but it is worth doing if you are in the area.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Real Hidden Valley : Upper Wall : Tower Dogs (5.10)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: This is a fun route, and I think the rating given here is correct. I think the crux is exiting the crack going to the face above. You can get good gear here even though the first bolt is higher.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka LightHo... : The Homesteader (5.11d)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: Unless you are really tall, the first clip on this is hard to reach.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka LightHo... : Morning Sunshine (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 18, 2014

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Comments: This route really is a one move wonder, but it is a good warm up climb and is good for new leaders. The bolts are very closely spaced at the most difficult parts.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : East Colfax : Tweety (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: This is another good route and good for those breaking into this level of leading. There are several good rest ledges.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : East Colfax : I Tawt I Saw A Puddy Tat (5.10a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: I think the top, just to the right of Tweety, is the crux on this. It was fun and not too hard if you are a new 5.10 leader. Another good route in the area!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : East Colfax : I Did! I Did! (5.5)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 16, 2014

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Comments: For an easy route, this is a lot of fun! Sometimes moving over rock is enjoyable regardless of the ease of the moves.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : East Colfax : For the Children (5.4)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 16, 2014

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Comments: This would make a really good first lead for someone who is new to climbing.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : East Colfax : Sylvester (5.8)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 16, 2014

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Comments: This is a fun route, and the crux is certainly at the top. A friend and I talked about bolting routes on this pinnacle a few months ago. Thanks to the guys that got it done.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Same As It Ever Was (5.11a/b)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 10, 2014

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Comments: The crux on this is certainly at about the first bolt. The bolt will be hard to clip if you are short, and if you fall doing the crux, it seems like the bolt is barely high enough to keep you from hitting the rock below.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Colorado Senior Open (5.10-)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 10, 2014

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Comments: This is a fun route. We did not use a #3 Camalot in the spot in Leo Paik's picture. We used smaller cams just above and a #3 as the last piece, much higher. The crux is certainly at the spot listed in the picture. This route shares an anchor with Family Guy and Same as it Ever Was and does not have its own anchor as shown in the D'Antonio guide.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Family Guy (5.11-)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 10, 2014

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Comments: The only cam we used on this was a #3 Camalot above the last protection bolt. Other cams did not seem necessary. The second bolt is a bit high for an easy clip. A piece of cord was attached so you could clip sooner, but the cord won't last forever.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Little Scraggy Dome : Two Jews Blues (5.10a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 9, 2014

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Comments: I did this for the second time recently. It was 5 years between attempts, and I have not gotten any better at slab climbing. It still feels hard! I forgot how thin the slab moves are on this. It is easier after the crux, but every pitch has some thin moves on it.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Little Scraggy Dome : Midlife Crisis Variation (5.8+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 8, 2014

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Comments: I brought 2 #5 Camalots on this, and I wish I had brought 3. I know you have to go above gear on a climb at some point, but I kept moving the cams up as I climbed. If you are a solid off width climber, you would not care, but 3 would have made me feel better.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Fistula (5.3)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: The biggest piece I used on this was a #4 Camalot. There are places for lots of smaller gear. I used a #3 at the top but nothing bigger than a #1 lower on the pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Jam It (5.8)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 2, 2014

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Comments: This is a really easy route except a few moves at the roof in the middle. I think it is worth doing if you are in the area.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Skinner Mountain : Central Corner (5.10a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 23, 2014

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Comments: I did this for the third time today. I found out it is not a good idea when it is seeping water and has ice on the rock at the top. I had to use two points of "aid".


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