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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Industrial Buttress : Belly Up (5.6)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: In the Haas/Schneider guide, it says there are many loose blocks on this. I did not notice any dangerous, loose blocks.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Industrial Buttress : Scarlett's Pulse (5.8)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is no way this thing is 5.8. I soloed it and nothing felt harder than 5.7. I usually don't downgrade routes after soloing, but this did no feel like 5.8.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Doc's Route (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I placed two small cams near the bottom, and it seemed perfectly safe to me.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Bihedral (Upper Tier) : Left-Handed Tool (5.8)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think climbing the crack at the bottom is the best way to do the route. The bolts will work, but climbing the crack keeps the rope in a straight line and the bottom crack is not too hard. I think I placed a #1 Camalot and a #0.5 Camalot.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Left Side : Calling All Trad Climbers (5.10a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 29, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Me and my partner both think the first crux is harder than the second one.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : MBA Buttress : Mournful Mullet (5.8)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb takes multiple #1 and #2 Camalots. It looks wide, but the crack is smaller in the back. You can use the bolts on Major Bolt Achievement for descent.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : MBA Buttress : How Rebolting aka Butt Crac... (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 22, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route was "ok" but nothing great. It says in the Haas, Schneider book to bring a #5 Camalot. I brought one but did not place it. My biggest cam used was a #2 Camalot. There are places for a #5, but it is not necessary.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Industrial Buttress : Left-Hand Monkey Wrench (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 20, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: You definitely place RPs on this climb. In fact, some of the hardest moves are protected by them. The steepest section is protected by #1 Camalots.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Industrial Buttress : Nipple Phyle (5.6)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this is 5.6 even though a lot of people call it 5.7. Everywhere it looks difficult small edges can be found. I did not place any RPs, but small cams were good to have.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Dementia (5.10a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Ron Olsen, it felt easier than Cosmosis.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Seein' Double (5.11a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is fun, but it feels almost impossible in the 2nd to last bolt area. The old Rolofson guide calls this section 13a.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Tiny Face (5.10- PG13)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I used a nut in the anchor and about 4 cams, because I don't feel great about small cams, but there are many possibilities.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Chimney (5.6)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is a fun little climb. It is 5.6 at the most. It might be easier.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Tiny Pillar (5.10+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this route today and did not notice a "slap move". It seemed pretty straight-forward climbing to me. I would bet Leo Paik had the first ascent as there is a lot of other rock to climb at N. Table Mtn.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : North Quarry / Pinnacle Are... : Rubble Rouser (5.8-)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this route today. I am glad I had a #4 Camalot. You might even be able to place something bigger. I thought the anchor on Cracking Up was easy to thread for the descent. It is not very far below the rim, maybe a foot.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : North Quarry / Pinnacle Are... : Cracking Up (5.11b)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 8, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did this again today, and it still does not seem like 11b. I would call it 10d.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Strange Times (5.10)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route seems fairly clean now and does not look like it needs much brushing.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Wine and Roses (5.11-)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux on this is short but definitely in the 11a range. There are only a few moves at this level, but they definitely exist.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : North Quarry / Pinnacle Are... : Crack (5.8)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 5, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would think the anchor is for the chimney on the right. It would not have been hard to put an anchor directly above the route. I used a #4 Camalot as a top rope directional. I did not find the flexing flake.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : North Quarry / Pinnacle Are... : Chimney (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 5, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I don't think the crack is "shallow and irregular". Small cams seem to protect it very well. There is some loose rock on the left side of the chimney near its top.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Mount Morrison
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The South Ridge is the only way to legally walk to the summit right now. The other routes were closed off at the beginning of the summer in 2012.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Industrial Buttress : Heidi Hi (5.8)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are two #1 Camalots stuck in the crack. You only need up to a #0.75 Camalot. The crux on this is only a few moves.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winter Warmer Area : Chossy Achievers (5.9+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 1, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The crux on this seemed to be at the last bolt. It seemed almost as hard at the beginning, but the pro was adequate. RPs seemed nice to have.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : MBA Buttress : No Manners aka Hodat (5.9 PG13)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Feb 28, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this is "Hodat?" as described in the Haas and Schneider book.
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : The Risk Area : Grü (5.5)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Feb 19, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: There are no remains of a deer present anymore.
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