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Berlin


Member Since: Feb 5, 2003
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Jay Eggleston


Point Rank: # 21
Total Points: 11,444
Last Year: 1,902
Last 30 Days: 194
57 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jay Eggleston been climbing?










Contributions


All 5057 | Routes 104 | Areas 7 | Photos 1938 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 597 | Posts 201 | Stars 1571 | Ratings 635
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Lover's Leap on Beaver Broo... : BB King (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: This was the most difficult of the three 9s on the face, but I don't think it is a 10. I gave it a 9+ rating. It is safely bolted and fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Couch Fire Crag : Sofa Mart (5.11a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 10, 2014

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Comments: The holds in the middle of this are "jugs", but the holds at the top and the bottom are small.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Couch Fire Crag : Recliner (5.10a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 10, 2014

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Comments: This is a 5.10, but you have to think carefully about the moves before you commit to them. You can get to the top to set up a top rope without climbing the 5.4, but it is easy to climb if you want to.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Couch Fire Crag : Footstool (5.4)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 10, 2014

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Comments: This is easier than the hike, but it was harder than 5.4 for me due to wet rock.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Crandall Hammer Arete (5.11a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 31, 2014

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Comments: I agree with the 11a rating of this. The hard moves are only in a short section of the climb.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Man Hands (5.10d)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 31, 2014

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Comments: The crack on this is great! Really fun . The seam is just " ok".


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Radio One (5.10b)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 31, 2014

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Comments: The person that posted this writes that "the climbing isn't hard..." but, for 10b it felt difficult to me.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Lady Fingers (5.10b)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 31, 2014

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Comments: I thought the crack on this was harder than 10b. I thought it was about 11a. My friend placed a #1 Camalot near the top.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Last Call (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 29, 2014

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Comments: There are bolts above this climb, probably for Rush Hour, and they look safer to reach from above than the Dementia anchors which are at about the same level. I solo down climbed to the anchor, so I know it is possible. The crux on this is difficult but very short.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Cruel Shoes (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: I thought I did this climb based on the Mark Rolofson topo, but I may have climbed a short crack even further right. I did not have a dihedral for stemming, but the rating felt about right.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Bad Sneakers (5.9+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: The move at the bottom is hard and is about a body length long. It does not look like good protection at the crux. I top roped the climb. The rest of the climb is much easier.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : The Great Race (5.9+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 22, 2014

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Comments: I too think this climb is at least 10a in difficulty. The hard moves are at the bottom and only a body length long. The pro is good at the crux. Starting to the left is possible as Leo Paik mentions.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Hands Off (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 22, 2014

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Comments: Many people mention stemming the crux. I did not stem, and it still felt 5.7 for difficulty. There is good pro the whole way and interesting climbing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Truth or Consequences Crag ... : Speak Softly (5.10d)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 16, 2014

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Comments: This crack is not a good climb. There are loose blocks in the crack, and the pro is not good near the bottom. I top roped it. A lead would be scary!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Truth or Consequences Crag ... : Jamie (5.10)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 16, 2014

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Comments: This is a good climb, but it feels difficult for a 10c. There are no good rests in the upper crack. Be prepared for difficulty.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Truth or Consequences Crag ... : Elegant Peasant (5.10)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: This is called "Elegant Pleasure" in the new D'Antonio guide, but it is called "Elegant Peasant" in the Rolofson and Rossiter guides. It takes mostly small cams and nuts for protection.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Russian Arete (5.8 R)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 13, 2014

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Comments: It's a little sketchy getting to the bolt anchor on Lips Like Sugar. You can place pro and down climb if you are leading, but following, you are above the anchor as you downclimb to lower off.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Uninspiring Wall (5.5)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 13, 2014

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Comments: In the Steve Levin guidebook, it shows the route going straight up over the roof following a thin crack. The line drawn in the photo on this site shows the route going to the right of the roof. We went over the roof at the crack, and it felt about 5.5 in difficulty.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Palisade Mountain : Horseshead : Eagle's Beak (5.10c)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: There is a bolt anchor above the chimney on what is described as pitch 2.


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Palisade Mountain : Horseshead : Glue Factory (5.8-)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 11, 2014

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Comments: You can go left at the top and use the bolt anchor on De- Virginizing Stud Pony.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Devil's Head Rock : DH-20 (an unknown 5.10 Crac... (5.10 PG13)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 3, 2014

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Comments: This really is a great route and deserves the four stars given to it in the newest South Platte guidebook. If you are in the area you should do it! I thought the crack went from big to small, it kind of does, so I tried to conserve my gear for when it was really needed. I had 2 #3 Camalots left that I did not place low, and I found places for them up high where the crack is mainly finger-sized.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Devil's Head Rock : Double Cracks (5.8+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 3, 2014

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Comments: There are now carabiners on the bolt hangers if you wish to rap the first pitch.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Truth or Consequences Crag ... : Unnamed (5.11-)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 1, 2014

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Comments: I too thought this route was easier than 5.11. I think it is a little harder than 10a but not much. You make a difficult move, and then it is over.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Truth or Consequences Crag ... : Truth Serum (5.7 R)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 1, 2014

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Comments: This is not much taller than a boulder problem, but it is somewhat taller. I found a few good pieces of pro. I placed two nuts which seemed "bomber".


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Mindless Cliff : Quick Chill (5.9 PG13)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 31, 2014

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Comments: This route has an obvious bolt anchor, so there is no need to anchor to a tree as described in the description.


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