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Berlin


Member Since: Feb 5, 2003
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Jay Eggleston


Point Rank: # 21
Total Points: 10,317
Last Year: 2,411
Last 30 Days: 155
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Areas are worth 15
Routes are worth 10
Photos are worth 5
Comments are worth 1



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Contributions


All (4531) | Routes (90) | Areas (7) | Photos (1760) | Comments (512) | Posts (182) | Stars (1445) | Ratings (535)
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Sunshine Wall : Fallen Angels (5.10b)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Feb 16, 2014

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Comments: You definitely need small stuff on the first pitch. I wish I had doubles in small cams. The belay for the first pitch, if you do it in two pitches, is not on a very good ledge, but there is a sling anchor and a few cam placements.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado : Ho Hum (5.4)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Feb 14, 2014

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Comments: In reference to the above comments about the height of the anchor, I am 5'8" and was able to reach up and clip them. You are on a big ledge, so the possible high piece of pro mentioned above does not seem necessary. See the picture taken from below the anchor.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Minutia Arete (5.9+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Feb 12, 2014

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Comments: The route is fun, but the crux section is very short, only a few moves. There is a bolt anchor to the right of this climb on Pumpkin Corner.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Minutia (5.8)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Feb 12, 2014

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Comments: This is a great climb! Too bad the crack is so short.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Party Time! (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Feb 12, 2014

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Comments: The rock seemed solid today so most of the loose rock must be gone. This is a good route (not so good with snow in the crack near the anchor).


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Boulder Slips : Edges and Ledges (5.8)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Feb 12, 2014

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Comments: This is a fun route which looks like it will be harder than it really is. It does have big edges and ledges.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bowling Alley : Main Crag : Bowling Ball and Chain (5.10a/b)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jan 26, 2014

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Comments: I think this route is easier than rated on here. D'Antonio rates it 9+, and I think it is a little easier. The route is "ok", but I would not seek it out.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Play Pen : Child's Play (5.10a/b)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: This climb seemed true to its grade, but the third bolt seemed high and thus hard to clip. There is an overhanging section that is 10a due to the large holds. A great route!


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Play Pen : Pirate's Booty (5.10b/c)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: This is my favorite route of the 5 presently on the wall.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Play Pen : Old Man's Myth (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: I agree with the 5.9 rating on this one, but the moves are not obvious at the steepest section and it does look harder than a 9. I think it is 5.9 for several moves and not just a single one.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Play Pen : Toy Box (5.10b/c)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jan 21, 2014

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Comments: The crux moves on this are not obvious. You really have to search for handholds, and the stemming is not obvious either, but the route is challenging and fun.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jan 18, 2014

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Comments: The routes are not sorted in order on the site. For example, "I promise Not to Cam In Your Mouth" is the first route right of "Mnemonic Plague".


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Caesar's (5.10b)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jan 18, 2014

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Comments: The first crux on this seemed to be in the first 20'. You can use a #4 C4 to protect this move.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : Mnemonic Plague (5.9+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jan 18, 2014

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Comments: Bring small cams and RPs for the slab section on this. Small C3s worked well.


Location: CO : Lyons : St. Vrain Canyons : South Fork of St. Vrain Can... : December Wall : I Promise Not To Cam In You... (5.10b)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jan 18, 2014

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Comments: I did not see the pin today either. This is a great climb!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Unknown Left Side (5.5)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jan 15, 2014

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Comments: A #4 Camalot works great. You could place something bigger, but it is really not necessary.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Bent Faith (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jan 15, 2014

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Comments: This feels a little harder than 5.7, and there really is no pro on the upper section.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : East Colfax : 2**6 (5.6)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jan 10, 2014

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Comments: This is a fun, easy route. It does look steep at the start, but it has big holds and really is not difficult.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : East Colfax : When I'm 64 (5.6)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jan 10, 2014

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Comments: You can go to the anchor on Speeding Ticket if you clip 9 bolts. Otherwise, this route shares the anchor with 2**6 if you only want to clip 7. The route is a good climb for this cliff.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Hillbilly Rocks : Hillbilly Rock 1 : Like Water for Bob (5.10c)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jan 3, 2014

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Comments: I thought this was more difficult than I'll Be Dipped. The holds are big, but the moves require lots of power.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Hillbilly Rocks : Hillbilly Rock 1
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jan 3, 2014

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Comments: There is still a bolt with a missing hanger on the first three routes on the right. We slipped a wired nut cable over it, but it should be replaced at some point.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Breakfast Cliff : Morning Schist (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Dec 26, 2013

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Comments: I used new #4 and #5 Camalots on this. After the traverse, I used stuff smaller than a #1 Camalot.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Breakfast Cliff : The Diner (5.9+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Dec 26, 2013

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Comments: I agree with Leo, this felt harder than Morning Wood.


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Little Half Dome : Head Over Heels (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Dec 24, 2013

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Comments: I am commenting again, because I did this route twice in a week's time. I think the crux on this is harder than that on Dog Day Afternoon which is a 10. Maybe some holds have broken off of this.


Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Little Half Dome : Dog Day Afternoon (5.10)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Dec 23, 2013

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Comments: The crux on this seemed to be on the upper part above the second bolt that is above the first anchor. My partner placed a tri-cam above this bolt. It is not necessary, but it makes the crux feel better protected.


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