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Berlin


Member Since: Feb 5, 2003
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Jay Eggleston


Point Rank: # 21
Total Points: 11,055
Last Year: 2,259
Last 30 Days: 214
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jay Eggleston been climbing?










Contributions


All 4849 | Routes 103 | Areas 7 | Photos 1871 | Page Improvments 2 | Comments 559 | Posts 189 | Stars 1525 | Ratings 593
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Quarry : River Dance (5.8)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jun 21, 2014

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Comments: I only used a 0.75 Camalot on this route. Nothing else except the bolts. I think the 2nd bolt protects a bad fall potential. There is gear above, but it would be a bolder lead without the second bolt. I almost missed the 3rd bolt. You can place a cam nearby. This is the only bolt I think did not need to be placed.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Lion's Den : Tall Talking Midget (5.11d)
By: Jay Eggleston When: May 29, 2014

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Comments: This looks doable from the bottom, but my partner and I both gave up after several top-rope attempts.


Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Winter Warmer Area : Polar Sandals (5.10)
By: Jay Eggleston When: May 21, 2014

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Comments: This route is a fun climb, but I think it is harder than 10-. I think it is 10c/d. The starting dihedral is definitely not 10- unless I really missed something. Regardless, I enjoyed the route.


Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Jackson Creek : The Taj Mahal : Too Young to Fly (5.10c)
By: Jay Eggleston When: May 19, 2014

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Comments: This is called "Too Young to Fly" in the Jason Haas guidebook. The name on here should be changed. Haas says to bring 2 #1 and #2 Camalots, but we used three #2s and two #3s. He says to rack up to a #3 but does not mention 2. The crack takes nuts in many places as well.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Real Hidden Valley : Real Hidden Valley : Debra (5.10b)
By: Jay Eggleston When: May 15, 2014

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Comments: This is certainly harder than 10b. It may be about 10d, but it is quite a surprise when you think it will be easier. The holds are not obvious at the crux, and you don't really have time to figure things out if you are trying to on-sight the route. The route is good, but like many routes on this wall, it is harder than originally rated.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Real Hidden Valley : Upper Wall : Battle of the Bulge (5.12-)
By: Jay Eggleston When: May 14, 2014

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Comments: The roof at the first bolt is certainly the crux. The route is easier above, yet still difficult and holds do "appear" when you really want them.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Real Hidden Valley : Upper Wall : Tetherly Designs (5.10-)
By: Jay Eggleston When: May 14, 2014

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Comments: The crux on this is really short, maybe one move. I used a #1 and a #1.5 Friend in the cracks near the top. This is short yet amusing. This shares an anchor with Battle of the Bulge.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Real Hidden Valley : Upper Wall : Streakers (5.10 PG13)
By: Jay Eggleston When: May 6, 2014

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Comments: I climbed this line moving left of the bolts. Maybe I was too far left yet I could have still clipped the bolts. I was top roping on a fixed line, so maybe I was braver than if I had been leading.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Real Hidden Valley : Upper Wall : Valley Boys (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: May 6, 2014

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Comments: This route is fun as a "warm up" but does not have that much interesting climbing. All the loose stuff is easily avoided, but there is some present. I only used a tree as an anchor to fix a line, but if you are top roping, you will need long slings as the trees are a ways back.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Asshole Rock : Cardiac Crack (5.9+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: I did this route for the second time today. The bottom probably is the crux for me. There are lots of rests, and the wide part at the top is difficult as well.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Asshole Rock : Mister Sol (5.10c)
By: Jay Eggleston When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: I did this again today because my partner had not done it before. It is short but is amusing if you are already in the area.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Asshole Rock : Taint (5.8)
By: Jay Eggleston When: May 4, 2014

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Comments: I never saw the 5th bolt either. It only lists 4 in the Haas guide. The first bolt does seem kind of useless, but it would keep one from falling onto the slab below. The upper crack is fun yet it is really short.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab : Rumple Teaser (5.10b)
By: Jay Eggleston When: May 1, 2014

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Comments: I thought this route was 10- as well. There are lots of slab moves and the route is fun. There are not many huge jugs so a new slab climber may find it more challenging.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Road Rock : Road Trip (5.10)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 29, 2014

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Comments: This is a fun route. It still contains lots of moss, but most of the moves are clean. I think the bolts start in a logical place. The crack pinches down as it gets higher.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Catslab : Old Deuteronomy (5.10a/b)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 25, 2014

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Comments: This is a fun route! The beginning crux is very short and is over quickly. I have to agree with the comments above about how "neat" the crystals are on the upper face.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Myth Rock : Thor (5.11+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: The newest D'Antonio guidebook shows this having 8 bolts and continuing up the arÍte to the right of the start. My partner only climbed past the first two bolts. You could see the bolts up high when we were there. I did not see anchor bolts up top, but you could use the tree above Mithril to descend.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Myth Rock : Excalibur (5.11b)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: This is my favorite route at this crag. The crux, down low, takes a lot of strength. Up high there is another hard move, maybe 10d, in the dihedral. We did it in one pitch, skipping the anchor on the ledge.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Myth Rock : Mjolnir (5.10c)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: This is a fun route and both me and my partner thought it was easier than the 10a to the left. I guess people's strengths vary.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Myth Rock : Myth of Freedom (5.10a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: Both my partner and I thought this was harder than 10a and more difficult than the 10c to the right. My partner climbs much harder climbs and so have I in the past. The route is not bad, but don't expect it to be an easy romp.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Myth Rock : Mithril (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 24, 2014

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Comments: I added webbing and a biner to the tree today (there was none there). I only had one sling to leave. The climb is fun, but the crux is really short. I used a #2, #3, and #4 Camalots in the crux area. I placed a #1 both above and below. You can easily do the climb as one pitch.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Prestige Worldwide Wall : Big Ellie's Little Crack (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: This is a fun route, but it only has one interesting move. You need protection up to a #2 Camalot. You could place two #2s, but one is enough to bring. The crack is mainly #0.75 Camalot sized. There is a place for a #1. I do not recommend this as a destination climb, but it is worth doing if you are in the area.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Real Hidden Valley : Upper Wall : Tower Dogs (5.10)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 22, 2014

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Comments: This is a fun route, and I think the rating given here is correct. I think the crux is exiting the crack going to the face above. You can get good gear here even though the first bolt is higher.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka LightHo... : The Homesteader (5.11d)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 19, 2014

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Comments: Unless you are really tall, the first clip on this is hard to reach.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Solar Dome (aka LightHo... : Morning Sunshine (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 18, 2014

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Comments: This route really is a one move wonder, but it is a good warm up climb and is good for new leaders. The bolts are very closely spaced at the most difficult parts.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : East Colfax : Tweety (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 17, 2014

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Comments: This is another good route and good for those breaking into this level of leading. There are several good rest ledges.


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