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Berlin


Member Since: Feb 5, 2003
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Jay Eggleston


Point Rank: # 21
Total Points: 11,256
Last Year: 2,027
Last 30 Days: 172
53 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jay Eggleston been climbing?










Contributions


All 4964 | Routes 104 | Areas 7 | Photos 1904 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 585 | Posts 191 | Stars 1553 | Ratings 618
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Canyon Block
By: Jay Eggleston When: 4 days ago

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Comments: If you see "Long Walk Rock" on the approach, you have gone too far. You can't see the rock on the approach, but you want to cut right when it does not seem like you are in a gully anymore.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Canyon Block : Shallow Jam (5.10a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: 4 days ago

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Comments: The protection on this is not great. There is gear but not a lot and not always when you want it. You don't jam very much in this crack. Things get easier near the top.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Canyon Block : Scorcher (5.9+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: 4 days ago

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Comments: The end of the crack is the most difficult. The crack pushes you to the left when you want to jam straight in. The cold shut anchor would be good after a lead, but to top rope it is easier to set an anchor above.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cenotaph Crag : Five Eight Crack (5.8)
By: Jay Eggleston When: 6 days ago

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Comments: I don't think this deserves a bomb, but it is not great. Maybe a good warm-up for the crag, but it is not a destination climb. The crux is near the top, and the rest felt about 5.7 in difficulty.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cenotaph Spire : Harebell (5.10- PG13)
By: Jay Eggleston When: 6 days ago

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Comments: This is a fun climb, but it is awkward below the second bolt. The holds here are small and the move committing. I think it may feel harder than 10- for some. I saw a new sequence I will do at the crux if I ever do it again.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cenotaph Crag : Right to Life (5.9+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 21, 2014

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Comments: Others called this route "dirty" in the past. It is not very dirty right now. I agree with the "off camber" comment though. The crux is near the top but only a few moves in length.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cenotaph Crag : Apparition (5.11a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 21, 2014

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Comments: I think this is 11a, but the crux is short and near the top. Lower, the route is easier but still hard 5.10.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cenotaph Crag : Ethereal (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 21, 2014

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Comments: This is more fun than the other 5.9 at the cliff.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cenotaph Crag : Going Down In it (5.9+ X)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 21, 2014

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Comments: I top roped this, and I saw no gear placements at the bottom as is described above. The climbing is kind of fun, but the route is very short.


Location: CO : Golden : Lover's Leap on Beaver Broo... : ABBA (5.8 PG13)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: This is still pretty dirty, and it is barely worth doing. There are a few fun moves in the dihedral but not many.


Location: CO : Golden : Lover's Leap on Beaver Broo... : BB Brain (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: I don't know how you would blow the clip above the ledge. If you made it this far, you have already done some hard climbing, and you should not blow this clip.


Location: CO : Golden : Lover's Leap on Beaver Broo... : Bed And Breakfast (5.8)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: This is a fun route but is more difficult than it appears from below. It was not as easy as I thought it would be while looking at it. The crux is short though, and I think it is worthwhile.


Location: CO : Golden : Lover's Leap on Beaver Broo... : Black And Blue (5.11-)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: I found the kneebar, but my partner did the first crux move without using it, and he climbed it better than I did. This is a good route, but the slab above has some small holds to negotiate.


Location: CO : Golden : Lover's Leap on Beaver Broo... : BB King (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: This was the most difficult of the three 9s on the face, but I don't think it is a 10. I gave it a 9+ rating. It is safely bolted and fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Couch Fire Crag : Sofa Mart (5.11a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 10, 2014

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Comments: The holds in the middle of this are "jugs", but the holds at the top and the bottom are small.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Couch Fire Crag : Recliner (5.10a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 10, 2014

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Comments: This is a 5.10, but you have to think carefully about the moves before you commit to them. You can get to the top to set up a top rope without climbing the 5.4, but it is easy to climb if you want to.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Couch Fire Crag : Footstool (5.4)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 10, 2014

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Comments: This is easier than the hike, but it was harder than 5.4 for me due to wet rock.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Crandall Hammer Arete (5.11a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 31, 2014

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Comments: I agree with the 11a rating of this. The hard moves are only in a short section of the climb.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Man Hands (5.10d)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 31, 2014

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Comments: The crack on this is great! Really fun . The seam is just " ok".


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Radio One (5.10b)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 31, 2014

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Comments: The person that posted this writes that "the climbing isn't hard..." but, for 10b it felt difficult to me.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Lady Fingers (5.10b)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 31, 2014

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Comments: I thought the crack on this was harder than 10b. I thought it was about 11a. My friend placed a #1 Camalot near the top.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Last Call (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 29, 2014

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Comments: There are bolts above this climb, probably for Rush Hour, and they look safer to reach from above than the Dementia anchors which are at about the same level. I solo down climbed to the anchor, so I know it is possible. The crux on this is difficult but very short.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Cruel Shoes (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: I thought I did this climb based on the Mark Rolofson topo, but I may have climbed a short crack even further right. I did not have a dihedral for stemming, but the rating felt about right.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Bad Sneakers (5.9+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: The move at the bottom is hard and is about a body length long. It does not look like good protection at the crux. I top roped the climb. The rest of the climb is much easier.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : The Great Race (5.9+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 22, 2014

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Comments: I too think this climb is at least 10a in difficulty. The hard moves are at the bottom and only a body length long. The pro is good at the crux. Starting to the left is possible as Leo Paik mentions.


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