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Member Since: Feb 5, 2003
Last Visit: 47 mins ago
Contact Jay Eggleston

Point Rank: # 19
Total Points: 12,371
Last Year: 1,764
Last 30 Days: 123
81 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jay Eggleston been climbing?










Contributions


All 5449 | Routes 121 | Areas 8 | Photos 2072 | Page Improvements 4 | Comments 669 | Posts 215 | Stars 1661 | Ratings 699
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : Clyde (5.8)
By: Jay Eggleston When: 19 hours ago

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Comments: This pitch is fun but, I think it is only a 5.6 in difficulty. I combined the two pitches and did a single rap down. I have a 70m rope but, a 60m one would work to descend in one rap.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : B. Upper Tier : A. First Triangle
By: Jay Eggleston When: May 17, 2015

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Comments: The one route here is fun. I would say it is about 11a in difficulty. I hope the first ascentionist posts it on here soon.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : C. Middle and West Walls : The Belay Brothers Bounce B... (5.8+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: May 13, 2015

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Comments: I led this recently and only placed cams. I used two #2 Camalots and a #4 as well. I also placed the #0.75 Camalot and a #2 Friend. I did not use any nuts. It is a little tricky getting above the last gear placement to the first bolt.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : C. Middle and West Walls : Old Pirates (5.11a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: May 13, 2015

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Comments: The crux is around the first bolt. It is not that hard to pull over the overhang. There is a big "jug" hold reachable above the overhang.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : C. Middle and West Walls : Three Little Birds (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: May 11, 2015

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Comments: I did this route for the second time, and it is still fun. I did not find the flexing flakes Leo talks about. It is certainly a route you should do if visiting the area.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : B. Upper Tier : C. Third Triangle : The Joy of My World (is in ... (5.9+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: May 3, 2015

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Comments: This is a fun route, and I agree that the crux is above the second bolt. When you reach the undercling, the feet have no good holds to move up on. It is just smears. Above, the holds are jugs. If anyone ever has a brush, there is lots of flakey, loose lichen on the climb. This route is worthwhile!


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : B. Upper Tier : B. Second Triangle : Undisclosed Location (5.9-)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 29, 2015

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Comments: This is a fun line. It is very sustained with few actual rests. It is not very physically sustained, but most of the holds are small, and the key to climbing it is finding the best ones. I used the upper rap anchor as a top rope anchor which worked very well.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : A. Jericho : The Horns of Jericho (5.5)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 29, 2015

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Comments: This route may be easy, but the movement is fun, and it seems worth doing. It is not easy to approach so likely will not get done often. It is worth doing if you are in the area.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : A. Jericho : Fit the Battle (5.6)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 29, 2015

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Comments: The crux seems to be at the start. The only protection here seems to be in a crack to the right of the main crack where a small cam will fit. Most of the crack seemed easier than 5.6 but was still fun.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : A. Jericho : Fit the Battle (5.6)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: There is nothing to lower off of at the anchor bolts, but it is easy to walk off to climber's right of the route.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : A. Jericho : The Horns of Jericho (5.5)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 27, 2015

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Comments: This route has four bolts, not three. All four are easily seen from the bottom. There is nothing to lower from on the anchor bolts, but it is easy to walk up or down to climber's right.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : A. East Wall : Zion Train (5.10a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: This is a fun climb. The crux is short, but it takes some thought to climb it. The upper slab could use some moss/ lichen scrubbing if anyone ever has a brush with them as they climb.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : A. East Wall : ... : Photo
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 15, 2015

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Comments: The actual crux seems like it is a body length higher.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : B. Recessed Slab : Don't Rock My Boat (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 13, 2015

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Comments: I think the 2nd pitch is slightly easier than the first, but there is not much difference between 5.7 and 5.7+. If you really want to top rope the 2nd pitch, you can reach the top by hiking up from the west. You might as well lead it though. I was by myself, so I top roped it, but it would be easy to lead.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Castle Rock : Bailey's Overhang (5.8)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: The last comment says you can place #2s, but I had two and did not use either. Small cams, a #3, and a #4 are what I used, and there are also good nuts. I did this climb in 1996, and it was fun to do it again in 2015. Makes me feel old....


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : Momentum Operator (5.11a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: The exit is pretty wild in that it involves a strange technique. It is easier than the crux cracks below. The route is fun, but the hard part is short.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : Crack Up (5.9+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: There is only one area with guano on this at the moment, and it is avoidable. This climb is hard for 5.9, but most 9+ climbs do feel pretty difficult.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : South Beach (5.10-)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: This route is harder than 10-. I agree that it is about 10b in difficulty. The crux is near the third bolt.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Broken Rock : Muad'Dib (5.10-)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 6, 2015

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Comments: The area by the second bolt is certainly the crux. The moves are not obvious, and it takes some thought to figure out the best sequence. The steep part up high is strenuous but not that hard.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : B. Recessed Slab : Don't Rock My Boat (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 4, 2015

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Comments: There are actually 11 bolts on the first pitch. The last one before the anchors can be easily and safely skipped. The first 10 are useful.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : B. Recessed Slab : My Feet is My Only Carriage (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments: This feels a little easier than the bolted line to its right. It will clean up over time, but it still has lichen/moss on it. The route is fun, and the protection seemed good.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : B. Recessed Slab : Cornmeal Porridge (5.7+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Apr 1, 2015

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Comments: This route is fun. There is lots of lichen. I would have helped clean the rock, but I did not have a brush. Look hard for the best holds, because some are hidden and not obvious.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : C. Middle and West Walls : Lyin' Like a Lion (in Zion) (5.10b)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 29, 2015

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Comments: This route is enjoyable once you figure out the difficult crux at the bottom. There is a great jug by the second bolt, but getting to it is not easy. Make sure you are warmed up before doing this climb.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : C. Middle and West Walls : Buffalo Soldier (5.10c)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 29, 2015

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Comments: The transition over the overhang to the face above is certainly the crux. There is one good hold here, but it is committing to bring your feet up and over. This is certainly a fun route.


Location: CO : Golden : Tiers of Zion : C. Lower Tier : C. Middle and West Walls : The Belay Brothers Bounce B... (5.8+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Mar 29, 2015

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Comments: The crux is definitely near the bottom, as described in the description. The route is fun, and it is a good warm up before doing harder routes in the area.


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