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Berlin


Member Since: Feb 5, 2003
Last Visit: 2 hours ago
Contact Jay Eggleston


Point Rank: # 21
Total Points: 11,172
Last Year: 2,049
Last 30 Days: 123
53 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jay Eggleston been climbing?










Contributions


All 4943 | Routes 103 | Areas 7 | Photos 1898 | Page Improvements 2 | Comments 580 | Posts 191 | Stars 1548 | Ratings 614
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cenotaph Crag : Right to Life (5.9+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: 2 hours ago

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Comments: Others called this route "dirty" in the past. It is not very dirty right now. I agree with the "off camber" comment though. The crux is near the top but only a few moves in length.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cenotaph Crag : Apparition (5.11a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: 2 hours ago

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Comments: I think this is 11a but, the crux is short and near the top. Lower, the route is easier but still hard 5.10.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cenotaph Crag : Ethereal (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: 2 hours ago

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Comments: This is more fun than the other 5.9 at the cliff.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Cenotaph Crag : Going Down In it (5.9+ X)
By: Jay Eggleston When: 2 hours ago

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Comments: I top roped this and I saw no gear placements at the bottom as is described above. The climbing is kind of fun but, the route is very short .


Location: CO : Golden : Lover's Leap on Beaver Broo... : ABBA (5.8 PG13)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: This is still pretty dirty, and it is barely worth doing. There are a few fun moves in the dihedral but not many.


Location: CO : Golden : Lover's Leap on Beaver Broo... : BB Brain (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 15, 2014

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Comments: I don't know how you would blow the clip above the ledge. If you made it this far, you have already done some hard climbing, and you should not blow this clip.


Location: CO : Golden : Lover's Leap on Beaver Broo... : Bed And Breakfast (5.8)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: This is a fun route but is more difficult than it appears from below. It was not as easy as I thought it would be while looking at it. The crux is short though, and I think it is worthwhile.


Location: CO : Golden : Lover's Leap on Beaver Broo... : Black And Blue (5.11-)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: I found the kneebar, but my partner did the first crux move without using it, and he climbed it better than I did. This is a good route, but the slab above has some small holds to negotiate.


Location: CO : Golden : Lover's Leap on Beaver Broo... : BB King (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: This was the most difficult of the three 9s on the face, but I don't think it is a 10. I gave it a 9+ rating. It is safely bolted and fun.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Couch Fire Crag : Sofa Mart (5.11a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 10, 2014

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Comments: The holds in the middle of this are "jugs", but the holds at the top and the bottom are small.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Couch Fire Crag : Recliner (5.10a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 10, 2014

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Comments: This is a 5.10, but you have to think carefully about the moves before you commit to them. You can get to the top to set up a top rope without climbing the 5.4, but it is easy to climb if you want to.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Couch Fire Crag : Footstool (5.4)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Sep 10, 2014

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Comments: This is easier than the hike, but it was harder than 5.4 for me due to wet rock.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Crandall Hammer Arete (5.11a)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 31, 2014

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Comments: I agree with the 11a rating of this. The hard moves are only in a short section of the climb.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Man Hands (5.10d)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 31, 2014

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Comments: The crack on this is great! Really fun . The seam is just " ok".


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Radio One (5.10b)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 31, 2014

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Comments: The person that posted this writes that "the climbing isn't hard..." but, for 10b it felt difficult to me.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : Radio Head : Lady Fingers (5.10b)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 31, 2014

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Comments: I thought the crack on this was harder than 10b. I thought it was about 11a. My friend placed a #1 Camalot near the top.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Last Call (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 29, 2014

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Comments: There are bolts above this climb, probably for Rush Hour, and they look safer to reach from above than the Dementia anchors which are at about the same level. I solo down climbed to the anchor, so I know it is possible. The crux on this is difficult but very short.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Cruel Shoes (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: I thought I did this climb based on the Mark Rolofson topo, but I may have climbed a short crack even further right. I did not have a dihedral for stemming, but the rating felt about right.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Bad Sneakers (5.9+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: The move at the bottom is hard and is about a body length long. It does not look like good protection at the crux. I top roped the climb. The rest of the climb is much easier.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : The Great Race (5.9+)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 22, 2014

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Comments: I too think this climb is at least 10a in difficulty. The hard moves are at the bottom and only a body length long. The pro is good at the crux. Starting to the left is possible as Leo Paik mentions.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Hands Off (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 22, 2014

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Comments: Many people mention stemming the crux. I did not stem, and it still felt 5.7 for difficulty. There is good pro the whole way and interesting climbing.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Truth or Consequences Crag ... : Speak Softly (5.10d)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 16, 2014

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Comments: This crack is not a good climb. There are loose blocks in the crack, and the pro is not good near the bottom. I top roped it. A lead would be scary!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Truth or Consequences Crag ... : Jamie (5.10)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 16, 2014

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Comments: This is a good climb, but it feels difficult for a 10c. There are no good rests in the upper crack. Be prepared for difficulty.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Truth or Consequences Crag ... : Elegant Peasant (5.10)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 15, 2014

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Comments: This is called "Elegant Pleasure" in the new D'Antonio guide, but it is called "Elegant Peasant" in the Rolofson and Rossiter guides. It takes mostly small cams and nuts for protection.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Hawk-Eagle Ridge : Russian Arete (5.8 R)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 13, 2014

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Comments: It's a little sketchy getting to the bolt anchor on Lips Like Sugar. You can place pro and down climb if you are leading, but following, you are above the anchor as you downclimb to lower off.


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