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Berlin


Member Since: Feb 5, 2003
Last Visit: 3 hours ago
Contact Jay Eggleston

Point Rank: # 14
Total Points: 13,688
Last Year: 2,615
Last 30 Days: 872
117 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jay Eggleston been climbing?










Contributions


All 5780 | Routes 141 | Areas 11 | Photos 2278 | Page Improvements 7 | Comments 702 | Posts 221 | Stars 1702 | Ratings 718
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Little Dome : Walking in the Rain (5.6)
By: Jay Eggleston When: 2 days ago

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Comments: If you rap off the fixed gear you don't have to down climb through the cave at all. A 70m rope gets you to hiking territory. I replaced the webbing on the fixed nut on 8-26-25 but, not on the chock stone as I did not have enough webbing. It would be good if the next party replaced the webbing on the chock stone. The second pitch is 5.7 if done the best way. It is good to have a #5 Camalot for your first piece on the second pitch. You are in a cave of sorts after the first pitch and t... more >>


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : Br'er Fox (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: 4 days ago

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Comments: I did this route again, and it is not easy for a 5.7. It is fun, but the climbing is real and not easy for a 5.7.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : Br'er Rabbit (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: 4 days ago

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Comments: I did this route again, and it is not easy for a 5.7. The rating seems correct, but the moves are not obvious.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : Br'er Bear (5.10)
By: Jay Eggleston When: 4 days ago

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Comments: I did this route again, and the crux is certainly the first two bolts. It is a good route, and the steep part is over quickly.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : Curious George Goes Climbin... (5.11)
By: Jay Eggleston When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Did this route again, and it is really good! The crux is at about the third bolt. You just have to go for the next big jug. If you are too slow, you get pumped.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : Tortoise Scute (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: 4 days ago

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Comments: I did the first pitch again, and it is very easy, barely 5.7. This is certainly a good route for new leaders.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : First Armadillo (5.8)
By: Jay Eggleston When: 4 days ago

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Comments: Did this route, again and I am sure that it is barely 5.8. It is a good route though.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Other Critters : Bicolored Python Rock Snake (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: 4 days ago

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Comments: I did this route again, and it is definitely not 5.9. It is fun though.


Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Training Grounds
By: Jay Eggleston When: 5 days ago

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Comments: The rock on the opposite side of the Training Ground is Scooter Trash Wall.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Little Dome : Goofy (5.7)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 17, 2015

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Comments: The first described option is the actual route, but the crack is more of a hand crack than a finger crack. The second option described is not part of the route. If you go to the right along the undercling flake, the route joins Garden Party. The original poster of this route could have a first ascent going up the offwidth crack he describes.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : The Little Dome : Beer Drinkers and Hell Rais... (5.10c R)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 12, 2015

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Comments: I think this is a better top rope than a lead. The first bolt is up high, and a fall before clipping it would injure the leader. Some of the bolts are scary, old buttonhead style. They do not look very good. It is easy to walk around to the left and set up a top rope.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Gnome Dome : Leave My Monkey Alone (5.10b/c)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: The bottom, where it is bolted, is not very good. There is lots of moss/lichen. I bet the first ascensionists just wanted to directly reach the crack. I think coming in from the route on the left would be best, to have the most fun anyway.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Gnome Dome : Crack Problem (V0)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: I did not have a pad or a spotter, so I rigged a rope on the crack. The anchor was a #1, #2, and a #3 Camalot. The crack is too small to jam at the top, and the start is probably the hardest part as there are good hands but poor feet.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Gnome Dome : Fat Freddy's Crack (5.8 R)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: This route is a good warm up at the dome. The crux is right at the bottom and there is a massive tree to anchor to at the top.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Gnome Dome
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 4, 2015

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Comments: When approaching from where you park, go east and downhill but a little to the right as well. You cross a small stream/drainage on the way. I went too far left at first. The rock is a great place to top rope if you are so inclined.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Snake Buttress
By: Jay Eggleston When: Aug 2, 2015

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Comments: The gated road now has a no trespassing sign on the gate.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : A Little Piece of South Dak...
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 28, 2015

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Comments: I would just go in the late fall or on a warm winter day. I waded the creek right below the crag,


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Angle Iron Slabs : Purgatory (5.10a R)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 27, 2015

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Comments: This climbs to the left of the rods sticking out of the slab at the bottom. It only has two bolts, and they have been replaced, so are good. It is best to top rope this route. It is a variation start to Roadside Attraction which starts a few feet to the right.


Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Outback
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 24, 2015

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Comments: I have to agree that the approach is incredibly difficult for a crag where you mainly clip bolts. The main Thunder Ridge is way easier to get to.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Tonnere Tower : Treasure Wall : ... : Photo
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 24, 2015

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Comments: It looks worse in the photo for meandering than it really is.


Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Healing Center
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 24, 2015

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Comments: The approach is heinous for Clear Creek but much easier than some other places I have gone to recently.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Angle Iron Slabs : Roadkill (5.9 R)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 19, 2015

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Comments: The rock at the bottom to get up to the crack is not too hard, but someone without much experience will consider it real climbing and not just a scramble.


Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Angle Iron Slabs : Trifle Dicey (5.9)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 19, 2015

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Comments: The "nasty" bolt on this climb has been replaced and is no longer "nasty". The newest guidebook lists two bolts on this climb, but there is only one.


Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : Skinner Mountain : 1937 route (5.5)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jul 1, 2015

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Comments: This route is ok if you are looking for an easy route. The vegetation is not too bad right now. There are a few bushes in random locations but nothing too much. Every pitch has a small section which makes you think though the route is mostly very easy. I did not place protection on the second pitch, yet you could if you wanted to. I think the route is ok for beginners if you are in the area.


Location: CO : Golden : Lover's Leap on Beaver Broo... : Short, Sweet Crack (5.5 R)
By: Jay Eggleston When: Jun 25, 2015

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Comments: I now know where this is, and I climbed it today. It is longer than 20'. It is about 80' to the top of the rock. The actual crack is only about 20' long. I think it is harder than 5.5. I think it is 5.7. I am glad I did not solo it, but the route is fun.


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