Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED


Member Since: May 2, 2012
Last Visit: Jul 13, 2014
Contact Jay Carroll


Point Rank: # 14,618
Total Points: 10
Last Year: 1
Last 30 Days: 0
0 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jay Carroll been climbing?










Contributions


All 42 | Routes | Areas | Photos | Page Improvements | Comments 10 | Posts 2 | Stars 15 | Ratings 15
Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Chimney Canyon : The Chimney : Rocky Racoon (5.7)
By: Jay Carroll When: Aug 31, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: This felt a bit on the hard side for 5.7, but I think that was partially psychological and partly because I gave myself too much rope drag. It really does start on the west side of the north face. We stumbled on the actual route without being sure, but a post-climb image comparison confirmed it. There were two loose rocks, but they're gone now. We chose to belay in the cave instead of up by the bushes. It was a good belay, but led to more rope drag on pitch 2. I'd really like to give it 2.5 star... more >>


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : East Wall : ... : Cornered (5.10+)
By: Jay Carroll When: Feb 24, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: The crux is at the bottom. After that, get hands on both sides of the bulge before moving left of it.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : East Wall : ... : Parkour (5.11-)
By: Jay Carroll When: Feb 24, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Three different styles in one route. Start on overhangs, then some stemming and finish with some slabby trad-like stuff. I'd say the crux runs from bolt 2 to slightly above bolt 4. Stay to the left at bolt 4 (in the obvious crack in this picture). There's nothing to the right even though it is tempting. I'd clip the first bolt and unclip it once you're at the second. The stick clip isn't really necessary.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : East Wall : ... : Esprit de Corps (5.9)
By: Jay Carroll When: Feb 24, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: I might call this a 5.9+ if I hadn't had insider information. Definitely not a 5.10 though. All the action is in the first 2 bolts.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : East Wall : ... : Softcore (5.9)
By: Jay Carroll When: Feb 24, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: Look for the easiest way up. Especially at the bottom. It's not always on the rope line. The crux is getting through the gully onto the upper ledge. Use feet.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : East Wall : The North End
By: Jay Carroll When: Feb 23, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: A nice sport wall that doesn't require gear. This area is great for morning winter climbing since most of these climbs are in the sunlight until ~2:00 pm. It also has a good range from 5.7 to 5.12 so you can work up your ladder until you find your limit. There may be a bit of loose rock since this is newly developed, but I encountered very little. Some of these routes feel more like trad since they follow the natural weakness in the rock. Don't go straight up the rope.
You can set up a toprope o... more >>


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : East Wall : ... : Peel & Core (5.9-)
By: Jay Carroll When: Feb 23, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: A little bit of zig-zagging here. Keep looking and you'll find the holds you need. The gap between the third and fourth bolt has a bit of distance, but it's still safe the the decreasing slope between the two. Definitely well-protected. No gear required, just draws, like all the climbs on this wall. If I could give it 1.5 stars I would.


Location: NM : Socorro Area : The Box climbing areas : Northern Box areas : East Wall : ... : Applecore (5.8-)
By: Jay Carroll When: Feb 23, 2013

view comment >>
Comments: A well-protected nice 5.7 for a beginning leader. I was impressed how clean it was for a new route. The 5.7+ rating could be more accurate, but it felt like solid 5.7 to me. like a few other routes here, there's a bit of zig-zagging to follow the easiest route. At the very top, just below the chains, stem the crevice instead of going into it. The crevice might have more loose stuff.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pinnacle Valley : Broken Blade Ridge : Broken Blade Ridge (5.8 PG13)
By: Jay Carroll When: Aug 4, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: Bring helmets on this one. There's a few loose rocks. Hopefully, we cleaned most of them off. A standard rack is fine.
Pitch 1: Belay from the furthest point out on the ridge to avoid rockfall from the leader. After the initial hump, we went a bit leftward to steeper terrain. Lichen in some places adds to the difficulty (maybe a 5.8+ if you count the lichen).
Pitch 2: Easy climbing, but you do need to place protection when solid rock is available. This gets you to the ridge. Broken blade is abou... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pinnacle Valley : Broken Blade Ridge : Broken Blade, West face (5.7)
By: Jay Carroll When: Aug 4, 2012

view comment >>
Comments: A fun, well protected, short route. I might even call it a 5.6+. The flake at the beginning looks a bit questionable, but it actually feels pretty solid. If you're up on broken blade ridge, it's definitely worth doing. The main crack is about 2 inches, but a standard rack is fine. We left a rappel sling in a crack from the top on 7/28/2012. Make sure to sign the logbook.


Contributed Forum Posts

Topic Title Forum Author Date
re: Need Trad Partner for 5.8 in Cottonwood canyons 7/9-7/18Northern Utah & IdahoJay CarrollJul 13, 2014
Need Trad Partner for 5.8 in Cottonwood canyons 7/9-7/18Northern Utah & IdahoJay CarrollJul 8, 2014

Contributed Stars

Name Quality Location

Rocky Racoon 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : The Chimney

Red Wall 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

NM : Socorro Area : ... : Red Wall

Spiderman 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

NM : Socorro Area : ... : Red Wall

Todaluna 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

NM : Truth or Consequences Area : ... : Campground

Parkour 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

NM : Socorro Area : ... : The North End

Esprit de Corps 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

NM : Socorro Area : ... : The North End

Broken Blade, West face 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Broken Blade Ridge

Peel & Core 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

NM : Socorro Area : ... : The North End

Left Wing 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

NM : Socorro Area : ... : Red Wall

Broken Blade Ridge 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

NM : Sandia Mountains : ... : Broken Blade Ridge

Applecore 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c

NM : Socorro Area : ... : The North End

Cornered 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

NM : Socorro Area : ... : The North End

Wolfman 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

NM : Truth or Consequences Area : ... : Campground

Lunatique 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

NM : Truth or Consequences Area : ... : Campground

Softcore 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

NM : Socorro Area : ... : The North End

Contributed Ratings

Name Established Rating Suggested Rating Location

Parkour

5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

NM : Socorro Area : ... : The North End

Lunatique

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c

NM : Truth or Consequences Area : ... : Campground

Cornered

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

NM : Socorro Area : ... : The North End

Wolfman

5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

NM : Truth or Consequences Area : ... : Campground

Left Wing

5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

NM : Socorro Area : ... : Red Wall

Todaluna

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

NM : Truth or Consequences Area : ... : Campground

Esprit de Corps

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

NM : Socorro Area : ... : The North End

Softcore

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

NM : Socorro Area : ... : The North End

Spiderman

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

NM : Socorro Area : ... : Red Wall

Peel & Core

5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c

5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

NM : Socorro Area : ... : The North End

Page 1 of 2.  1  2   Next>   Last>>