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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mt. Moroni : Voice from the Dust (5.11b/c)
By: Jay Brown When: Apr 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another good route!
Rack is really:
Dbles to .4
3 each .75, 1, 2's
1-#3
Maybe 1-#4 but nothing big. I chose a more direct chimney start to pitch 5
Nuts maybe but no tiny pieces
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : Sheer Lunacy (Free) (5.12b)
By: Jay Brown When: Apr 24, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent route! The roof is really only like 11b/c but the corner that follows gets thin for a couple moves and could be 11+?
The crux is sporty and good. Tiny and reachy higher on crux but there's a bolt.
We were casual and and pitched it out and it still only took 5 hrs.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Cliffs of Insanity : To The Pain (5.10- PG13)
By: Jay Brown When: Apr 11, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: wow sam! hit a nerve there! see ya sat night!
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Titan : Sundevil Chimney (5.9 A3)
By: Jay Brown When: Nov 7, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: is there room for 2 to sleep at pitch 5?
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Cloak & Dagger (5.10+)
By: Jay Brown When: Nov 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: What is the route to the right of this one I have heard about? A Scheafer route?
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : The Black Sheep (5.13)
By: Jay Brown When: Nov 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Josh, on p-6, up the right facing corner then right underclinging the peg flake that's about to pull right off? Totally wasn't sure here and thought the fall could be consequential. Also tried straight up to the solid undercling flake and up the column like feature but no pro there.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Public Service Wall : Light Duty (5.9-)
By: Jay Brown When: Oct 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: 100 yds which way?
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Tague Yer Time (5.12)
By: Jay Brown When: Oct 21, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bottom 7 pitches were definitely softer than the top ones. The one .12a off the 2 bldr bivy is the hardest of the .12a's.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : El Padre (5.11)
By: Jay Brown When: Sep 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can someone provide a topo of where these damn rap chains are!?
Never found them!
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : Mt. Evans : The Black Wall : Undertow (5.10a A4- R)
By: Jay Brown When: Jul 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Do I have to have the offset aliens?
7/30 Update: Probably wet for the season!
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : The Dragon's Tooth (5.8+)
By: Jay Brown When: Apr 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Good, tired, second day route, except for hiking out the rest of the height out.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Rim Routes : Blacksmiths (5.12)
By: Jay Brown When: Apr 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sent?
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : The Hallucinogen Wall (5.10 A3+ R)
By: Jay Brown When: Nov 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Can the route be rapped from the top to the very bottom? Are there anchors the whole way? Any beta?
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Qualgeist (5.12b R)
By: Jay Brown When: Oct 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pumpy sport crux! Slightly confusing where to go. Slightly dirty from being a runoff zone. I would do it again though!
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : South Rim Routes : Dragon Rider (5.12-)
By: Jay Brown When: Aug 16, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: A couple notes:
1. P3 peg is pretty sketchy!
2. P8 peg is actually alright.
3. P9 "thinning" o.w. isn't really an o.w., but it has some thin moves at the top.
I thought this route was better than its neighbor "Black Snake"
You can't aid through the .12- o.w. with a #6, you would need a Bigbro.
It has a lot of handjams on good rock!
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Headless Crankin' Chicken (5.12b) : Photo
By: Jay Brown When: Jul 30, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is now 2 more bolts at the bottom. No need for gear on this or the 1st pitch.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Second Grotto Wall : Necronomicom Direct (5.11+)
By: Jay Brown When: Jun 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sure didn't know. Harder exit for sure. Looks like a mission to correct a lot of pass routes in this database fo' sho'.
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Colorado Welcome Party (5.11 R)
By: Jay Brown When: Jun 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The peg pitch isn't 200', it's like 50'.
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : The Engagement (5.12b)
By: Jay Brown When: Jun 18, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The tree has fallen, 2011!
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Location: CO : Independence Pass : Grotto Walls Area : Lower Grotto Wall : Headless Franken Chicken (5.12a)
By: Jay Brown When: Jun 15, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Try "Headless Crankin' Chicken .12b". I linked it up on Saturday. Long and pumpy. Give a shout if you head over again.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Moonlight Buttress : The Moonlight Buttress (Fre... (5.12d)
By: Jay Brown When: Apr 24, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: nice, the whole route has chains now and new bolts!
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Location: CO : Gunnison : Black Canyon of the Gunniso... : North Chasm View Wall : Twisted (5.11d A2)
By: Jay Brown When: Apr 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty classic Black route! Usual thin, space out, tips corner crux with stemming.
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Leaning Wall : Vernal Equinox (5.10+ R)
By: Jay Brown When: Apr 23, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: the crux just simply needs a bolt. we just bailed because if you fall where the .10 crux is and pop the only sketchy tcu placement you get, you will deck! i just decided it wasn't worth it. probably only 5.10 moves, but on sandy sloping ledges! a finger butt crack with dirt and lichen in it.
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Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Donnelly Canyon : Twitterpated (5.11)
By: Jay Brown When: Apr 8, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: gee, thanks for all the info!
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Location: UT : Zion National Park : Emerald Pools : Cracking the Emerald (5.10 C1+)
By: Jay Brown When: Apr 6, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: didn't look good after the first 4 pitches. sick roof moves at .11c/d! .11d moves 10' off the deck too, thin!
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