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Location: UT : Joe's Valley
By: JasonJNSmith When: Mar 15, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: If you bring a bunch of full strength beer I'm sure you will have no problems.
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Location: OR : Smith Rock
By: JasonJNSmith When: Feb 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm planning a trip for 4/4 thru 4/18 of this year. I was just wondering if anyone had any comments on the weather/temps that time of year.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Leisure Class (5.11c)
By: JasonJNSmith When: Jan 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: ^ You're thinking of Pick Pocket.
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Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Leadville : The Aircraft Carrier
By: JasonJNSmith When: Oct 15, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: V11 on the backside is called Rhythm of the Saint.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Armory : Fission aka Ken T'ank (5.12c)
By: JasonJNSmith When: Aug 20, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: A right hand side pull below bolt #2 is about to rip off. We put a giant X on it. At first it feels solid, but as you move higher and pull out on it more it starts to make horrible noises. Most people use it as a foot moving into the crux, so be careful especially so low on the route. You can clip #2 from a low stance if you sneak left to a horn for your left hand and stem your feet up.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Loose Cannon (5.12b)
By: JasonJNSmith When: Aug 14, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: There is an awesome knee bar on this one after the tenth bolt. You put your left foot on a sloping smear and your left knee under the roof. At this point, the knee is in, but it's not great. If you want to make it better, you can slide your right knee under you left heel and push. So essentially it's a double kneebar with the left knee pushing against the rock and the right knee on/supporting your left heel.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Project Wall : Hang 'Em High (5.12b)
By: JasonJNSmith When: Jul 13, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The triangle sloper/jug that most people clipped the sixth bolt from is no longer there.
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Tits Up (5.12b)
By: JasonJNSmith When: Jan 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I have to disagree with the description which states that you climb exclusively on micro thin edges. I can only think of one maybe two holds that qualify. The upper crux has some small holds that you can't skip but the feet are good at that point. The rest of the beta came together in a manner that did not require pulling on small holds. They were there. I just didn't have to use them. This route was a classic power endurance route for me with four decent jug holds to recover on. This is one of... more >>
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Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road
By: JasonJNSmith When: Jan 16, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, you could get snowed on in March. It's probably not a huge risk, but it is spring time and weather patterns are shifting. Some of our largest storms on the Front Range happen in March and April. I wouldn't say not to go, but I also might not drive all the way from Indiana with a small window of days to climb. If you came out for a week, it would be worth it. If you came out for five days, it could be worth it. If you came out for three days, you might get shut down with a freak storm, but c... more >>
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Chocolate Factory : One Side Makes You Taller (5.11a)
By: JasonJNSmith When: Jan 3, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Clipping the chains is the crux on this one.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Blue Sky Mining (5.11d)
By: JasonJNSmith When: Jan 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: B3 and 4? What are you talking about?
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : The Arsenal : Climb-A-Dime-A-Ding-Dang (5.12b)
By: JasonJNSmith When: Jul 27, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, Easy Skankin' is amazing!
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Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Leadville : The Aircraft Carrier : Star Crossed Lovers (V5)
By: JasonJNSmith When: Jul 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: The route to the left is called Romeo.
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Location: IL : Dixon Springs State park : Dixon face ? (V2)
By: JasonJNSmith When: Mar 9, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this is called the Gill Traverse. V3
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Location: UT : Joe's Valley : New Joe's : Chip and Dale : Planet of the Apes (V6+)
By: JasonJNSmith When: Mar 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is the best boulder problem I have ever done.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Shady Grove : Girls Gone Wild..WOO! (5.10d)
By: JasonJNSmith When: Mar 3, 2011 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fairly continuous and pumpy 10+ climbing.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Pendergrass-Murray Recreati... : Bob Marley : Toker (5.11a)
By: JasonJNSmith When: Dec 30, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: The slab section down low would be more enjoyable with fewer bolts.
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Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Military Wall : Moonbeam (5.9)
By: JasonJNSmith When: Oct 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't grab it to hard! Agreed, it's amazing. I always try to describe this hold to people and fail miserably.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Alderfer/Three Sisters Park : The Eggs : In Between Egg/Upper Eggs : Scoop aka Pack-man (V6)
By: JasonJNSmith When: Sep 18, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: In the video, he jumps into the undercling off the ground. I was just wondering what the beta was for the start. It just feels super hard for me to make that first move with both feet and hands on the rock.
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Alderfer/Three Sisters Park : The Eggs : In Between Egg/Upper Eggs : Scoop aka Pack-man (V6)
By: JasonJNSmith When: Sep 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's kinda a jump start?
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Location: CO : Morrison/Evergreen : Alderfer/Three Sisters Park : The Eggs : Trailside Egg : Dihedral Problem (V2)
By: JasonJNSmith When: Sep 15, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is anyone doing this one starting seated to the left? There is a big jug to start off of. Then I go with my left hand into a good undercling and work my way right into the dihedral. I was there solo and thought this was the line, but it felt harder than V2.
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Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Leadville : The Klettergarden : Extension (V7-8)
By: JasonJNSmith When: Aug 28, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: This problem starts to the right of The Minturn Mile.
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Location: CO : Eagle/Vail/Leadville : The Klettergarden : Boulder A - V5 (V5) : Photo
By: JasonJNSmith When: May 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: Photo by Chad Thomson.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Bihedral Area : The Riviera : Abandonment (5.8)
By: JasonJNSmith When: May 4, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: I cleaned your draws off these anchors yesterday. If you left them there deliberately, I'm sorry I removed them. If you forgot them I will do my best to get them back to you. Pm me with a description of the draws, and I will make sure you get them back.
thanks
Jason
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Location: Community Forum : Good Rock and Fast Cars -- ... : Post : Photo
By: JasonJNSmith When: Apr 7, 2010 | view comment >> |
Comments: F-ing sweet!
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