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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : RMNP Bouldering Areas : RMNP Bouldering Miscellaneo... : ... : The Kind (V5)
By: jason seaver When: Oct 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very sorry to have bored people with the history of this problem. I honestly submitted it in hopes that people would appreciate the info and correct the mistake. Alas, it seems as if tcam is the authority on what to call things and he sees no need to push the issue further. Perhaps we could at least get Jim Belcer's name spelled correctly in the ever-so-gracious history paragraph? Or, if tcam has seen fit to change Jim's last name to Belcher, maybe someone could let me know so I can inform Jim o... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : RMNP Bouldering Areas : RMNP Bouldering Miscellaneo... : ... : The Kind (V5)
By: jason seaver When: Oct 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Despite what you may think, this is not a rant. It is an attempt to get the first ascent information recorded correctly in this database. A discussion about the most, and least, inspiring route names would probably belong on the forum page. Your "issues" about the name would probably belong there too since they have nothing to do with the name of this problem.
Are people still saying "word"?
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : RMNP Bouldering Areas : RMNP Bouldering Miscellaneo... : ... : The Kind (V5)
By: jason seaver When: Oct 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Whether it "sticks" or not, this here is a climbing database. The actual names of problems and routes, and the history of their development, should be preserved and should take precedence over a later generation's ideas. Just because these guys did all these problems long before they got popular doesn't mean the next crew gets to rename them. Have some respect. If "The Kine" absolutely HAS to remain in the name it should appear AFTER the real name.
And what does "aka (also known as) Slander" mea... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : RMNP Bouldering Areas : RMNP Bouldering Miscellaneo... : ... : The Kind (V5)
By: jason seaver When: Oct 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: After your matter-of-fact response, tcamillieri, I asked around to see where my memory of the "In Your Face" name came from. This is what I found out:
This problem was established in the summer of '92 or '93 by Jim Hurst. He called it "In Your Face" because there was a good-sized block that threatened to dislodge into your face while you were yarding on it. The following summer Jim Belcer and Dean Potter, along with Hurst, repeated the problem, and succeeded in pulling the block off. Since the "... more >>
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Central Wall : Candidus/Frenchman's Fury (5.13b/c A3+)
By: jason seaver When: Oct 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've always thought that one of the unwritten rules in climbing was that once a route is free climbed, climbers should no longer hammer things into it. Whether the route gets one free ascent, or a thousand, should make no difference.
I suggest that the grade of this pitch should be changed to 5.13b/c, and, if someone has aided it hammerless, a clean-aid rating could be included as well. The climbing on the leaning corner is "only" 5.12ish and protects better than you might think, and the 5.13 se... more >>
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Location: NH : Cathedral Ledge : The Central Wall : Candidus/Frenchman's Fury (5.13b/c A3+)
By: jason seaver When: Oct 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This pitch was free-climbed by Tim Kemple in 2003 as the crux first pitch of Candidus, 5.13b/c. Paul and Brad originally aided it in 2001 at A3/A4. But since it is now free, the pins and hammer should be left on the ground. There is one bolt and a couple of fixed bashies in the angling, overhanging corner before it joins The British Are Coming. The start is shared with Colonial Ambush.
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Location: CO : Lyons : South Saint Vrain Canyon : Scout Rock : Comanche Warrior (5.12-) : Photo
By: jason seaver When: Oct 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Really? Did you submit this by accident? This has got to take the cake for the worst photo on Mountain Project.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : CO Hwy 7 & Tributaries : The Crags : Wizard's Gate
By: jason seaver When: Sep 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Crags are actually in Roosevelt National Forest, but when you access them from the Twin Sisters trail you have to cross National Park land. If you approach from the Baldpate Inn, across Rt. 7 from Lily Lake, you stay on National Forest land the entire day. The Wizard's Gate, being on the southern end of the Crags, is probably most efficiently approached from the Twin Sisters trail but it's not that much faster than the Baldpate approach. I suspect the route and bolt counts would be much lowe... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : In Search of Unicorns (5.11- R)
By: jason seaver When: Aug 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Aw shucks, you're probably right. But you gotta agree, you're jokes kinda suck.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : In Search of Unicorns (5.11- R)
By: jason seaver When: Aug 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yer jokes kinda suck Mike. Your first couple posts made you sound ignorant and aloof.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : RMNP Bouldering Areas : RMNP Bouldering Miscellaneo... : ... : The Kind (V5)
By: jason seaver When: Aug 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I thought this was called "In Your Face".
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : RMNP Bouldering Areas : RMNP Bouldering Miscellaneo... : ... : Kind Traverse, The (V11-)
By: jason seaver When: Jul 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm pretty sure this is a Jim Belcer problem.
edited 7-8-09: Talked to Jim today; I guess Ian Glass did the first ascent, Belcer got the 2nd.
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Location: CO : Estes Park - Tommy Caldwell...
By: jason seaver When: Jun 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A huge thanks to Zac Zehr (sp?) for making this event happen and to Tommy Caldwell for a great show. I think they rose $2600.
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Location: NH : Attitash Crag : Torch (5.12-)
By: jason seaver When: Jun 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just left of Torch is a cool little line that I put some effort into, but could never even toprope successfully. As far as I know it remains an open project and would be a proud send for a strong suitor. It climbs the pretty, thin fingercrack left of Torch, then busts out the bulge/roof when the crack ends. I think it could be done without bolts but would probably require a headpoint approach. One bolt at the crux bulge wouldn't be terrible either. I was calling it Evil Twin.
You can toprope it ... more >>
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Long's Peak : The Diamond : ... : Photo
By: jason seaver When: May 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Nice job on your ascent. Was free climbing possible on D7 yet?
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : US 36 (between Estes Park &... : Photo
By: jason seaver When: May 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Where in Pierson Park is this?
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Location: NH : Band M : Hercules (5.11b)
By: jason seaver When: May 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route and Over Done, just to the right, can be climbed in the pouring rain. Finally Dunn and the Understatement stay dry in a light rain, but seep when it really starts coming down. All are high-quality little pitches.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust
By: jason seaver When: Apr 8, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Your project looks awesome, Mark. Good luck with the send. Let us know when it's finished.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust
By: jason seaver When: Apr 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Richard, do you have any more info on the "radical looking route" right of Violet Blue. It's currently adorned with a red tag on the first bolt above the anchor. Not sure if it's your project or not, but I'm wondering what the accepted etiquette is for red-tagged routes. Is it totally off-limits, or do you just have to make sure NOT to send if you try it. And how long does the red tag maintain its authority? Not that I'm dying to get on the route (probably too hard anyway), just curious about th... more >>
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Big Thompson Canyon : Mary's Bust : The Devil's Backbone (5.11c)
By: jason seaver When: Apr 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is every bit as good as Bernard suggests. I was skeptical of the 4-star rating, but not after doing the route. Nice work Bernard and Mark. And thanks to Richard and everyone else involved in developing this area; it's an excellent addition to the long list of craggin' options in the Estes area.
Despite the near-constant bombardment of falling ice, we had a great afternoon on this route last Sunday. All the pitches were great, but that final headwall IS spectacular. It remind... more >>
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Location: NH : Kancamagus Crags : Sundown Ledge--Main Cliff : Vanishing Point (5.12d)
By: jason seaver When: Mar 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I can't remember what he called it, but I'm pretty sure it's a Bob Parrott route from the late 90's. 12+ sounds about right.
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Location: CO : Call for Outdoor Writers - ...
By: jason seaver When: Feb 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: How 'bout if you grow some balls, shell-boy, and use your real name when you're calling people dicks.
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Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Long Walk Wall
By: jason seaver When: Feb 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Long Walk Wall does NOT fall within the raptor closure area.
March through September are the best months to go to the Long Walk Wall, and rest assured that you will be breaking no laws.
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Location: NH : Wild River Crags (aka Evans... : Wild River : Big Red (5.11d)
By: jason seaver When: Nov 20, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: .....except that it's a bolted crack. This pitch IS fantastic, but the bolts are a shame.
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Location: NH : Band M : Jungle Work (5.11+ PG13)
By: jason seaver When: Sep 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: It's great to have this crag, and these routes, in the database but, John, you gotta admit these descriptions are virtually worthless. I'm not totally familiar with this pitch, but it's "description " here piqued my interest enough to dust off my old guidebook to try to learn a little more. Perhaps my findings will help someone find, and repeat, the route:
I seem to remember the most logical approach to the base of the crag dumping you out in the vicinity of a route called Three Wogs, 10a, which... more >>
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