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Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Photo
By: Jason Hundhausen When: Nov 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Beautiful.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L5) Good Craic Wall : (48) Chomping at the Bit (5.11a) : Photo
By: Jason Hundhausen When: Oct 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chomping? Don't you mean...aah, nevermind.
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : Photo
By: Jason Hundhausen When: Oct 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd pay money to see that on the stipulation that you start with a 40 of Mickey's (your fav, no, Mike?) before your first route. =)
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : Photo
By: Jason Hundhausen When: Oct 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Oh riiight! That was cool. I've wanted to lead Grendel at night since then, but figured I'd better do the route more than once before taking that on.
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : Photo
By: Jason Hundhausen When: Oct 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was thinking that your name sounded familiar. The Black Foot rings a bell, but I can't remember what we were referring to...?
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Super Slab : ... : Photo
By: Jason Hundhausen When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Depends on the butt. In this case, yes, it's an oxymoron (no offence to the leader in this pic!)
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Enchanted Tower : Photo
By: Jason Hundhausen When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Incredible photo. What was your setup?
Edit: I checked out the other photos you posted to Mountain Project - outstanding work! You've got some stunning photos here, thanks for posting them.
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Location: NM : New Mexico Navajolands : Ship Rock : Photo
By: Jason Hundhausen When: Sep 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stunning colors - love the contrast.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : Los Alamos Crags : The Dungeon : Main Wall : (02) Brave Little Toaster (5.10c)
By: Jason Hundhausen When: Aug 28, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Hey now, I thought the route was quite fun. Yes, you rarely get any holds that are positive - pretty much everything is a flat sloper, sorta like shingles on a roof, but if you keep you feet, it's some good, technical climbing. Generously bolted too (thanks Josh), so you never feel like you're going to take a big whip. I agree that it needs more cleaning though. I managed to get up it without breaking any rock off, but there was plenty of lichen to keep me company.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : (23) Fat Boys Don't Fly (5.12)
By: Jason Hundhausen When: Aug 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool route. Continuous overhanging climbing on a mix of pockets, only a few of which are of the "thank-god" variety. The crux section near the top felt pretty damn tough, although only for a couple moves, where you reach a pretty good ledge. The dyno that I think Samet is referring to would be sick to stick (and a big one!), but makes no sense as there's a decent side-pull up left, which is certainly on-route. Having very little experience with White Rock 12s, I can't say what I think the grade ... more >>
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Location: Michael Wheat : Favorite Climbing Shots : Photo
By: Jason Hundhausen When: Aug 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I took the photo Halladay!
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: Jason Hundhausen When: Aug 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would like to think that most (some?) people that climb at the Tower are interested in keeping it clean. WagBags/RestStop2 bags are an ideal solution - aside from the expense and having to go purchase them, which may deter some. For those not up to such a monumental challenge, an alternative is to use a bucket (2-gallon?) with a lid and plastic kitchen garbage bags. Put the bags in the bucket like you would a regular garbage bin, do your bizness in the bag, tie it up and put the lid on. You ca... more >>
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: Jason Hundhausen When: Aug 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: augie: Could not agree with you more. TP is all over the place. At a very minimum, dig deep and burn the TP (make sure the fire's OUT!) or, an even better solution is to bring Wag Bags and take it out with you - there are tons of nice, convenient trash bins on the highway back to Magdalena to drop it off in. See this discussion for more: Enchanted Tower: Are we our own worst enemy?
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Location: clmbrchick : I Creek : Photo
By: Jason Hundhausen When: Aug 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks like Blue Sun on Way Rambo, no? Awesome route!
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : The Playground : (05) Unrelenting Nines (5.11c/d) : Photo
By: Jason Hundhausen When: Aug 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The culprits should be ashamed of this mess. With terrible work like this, it's no wonder that they haven't yet stepped forward to take responsibility.
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Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Cochiti Mesa & Surrounding ... : Cochiti Mesa : North Cliffband : (17) Laurel's Climb (5.6)
By: Jason Hundhausen When: Jul 27, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Agreed Chris. We typically rap all the way down off of Monkey Lust.
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : Los Alamos Crags : The Dungeon : Trash Tower : (05) Trash Compactor (5.12-)
By: Jason Hundhausen When: Jul 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Unless the hold that broke off was a bucket - and I mean a bucket, there is no way that this route is 11c/d. While certainly not as sustained, I felt it was harder than any single move on Moat Jump, Against Nature, or Gangland. Perhaps on par with Little Evil or Crimp Chimp? Of course, maybe I'm just weak and seeing as this was my first time on the route, it felt abnormally hard...who knows. Nonetheless, I found the opening ... more >>
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : The Sponge : (02) Napoleon's Angst (5.10b) : Photo
By: Jason Hundhausen When: Jul 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yup, it's wild hops (or so I was told). Wonder if it'd work in homebrew...mmm, homebrew...
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Frog Prince : (06) Gollum (5.11d)
By: Jason Hundhausen When: Jul 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Eric, Compared to routes like Grendel, Golden Stairs, and a whole host of other 5.11s on other walls, you're 100% correct that Gollum isn't as good. And certainly, I would feel cheated too if that were the only route that I had gotten on, but on Frog Prince, at the mid 11 grade, I think Gollum is a very fun route and a natural stepping stone for those progressing onto the more difficult Frog Prince routes. Put differently, I would have also felt cheated had I not gotten on the ... more >>
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Frog Prince : (07) Frog Prince (AKA Babie... (5.12a)
By: Jason Hundhausen When: Jul 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The second fixed draw was found to be exceedingly loose this weekend(7/12/2009). The bolt was able to be removed by hand with only a couple of turns. It was inspected, replaced, and tightened appropriately (thanks to James Hunter). The previous day I witnessed another climber clip this bolt and climb past, not noticing how loose it was. When I was on this route later on I noticed that it was protruding by about 1/2 inch (I'd like to say that's why I didn't climb past it... more >>
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Frog Prince : (06) Gollum (5.11d)
By: Jason Hundhausen When: Jul 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Let's be fair here. Gollum, while perhaps not the same caliber as some of the other more difficult routes on Frog Prince (can't comment, haven't been on them), is not a "10 foot boulder problem." For those not yet able to get on the neighboring 12s and 13s, this 30 foot boulder problem is pumpy and quite fun. Cruxy off the deck and pumpy to the anchors, it's a good route for the mid 5.11 grade.
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Frog Prince : (07) Frog Prince (AKA Babie... (5.12a)
By: Jason Hundhausen When: Jul 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: D. Jackson's Rock Climbing NM guide shows this route terminating at the anchors for Gollum, but I believe this is incorrect (certainly a possibility though). Instead, continue past three more fixed draws angling up and right.
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Frog Prince : (03) You Gotta Kiss a Lot o... (5.11b)
By: Jason Hundhausen When: Jul 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Looks easier than it is. Expect lots of grit in the pockets. Fun movement going up through each vertical section, but the big ledge in the middle detracts. The 4th bolt (first one after the ledge) is pretty poorly placed IMO, mainly because you have to make a move (or two if you're shorter) to reach the clip and you're clipping off a hold that feels like it's going to break. The route to the left, Blind Man's Bluff, is a much better alternative for folks looks for routes in this loc... more >>
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Juno Tower : Pork Swords (5.11b)
By: Jason Hundhausen When: Jul 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Excellent route! There's a bit of lichen going up to and past the first bolt, but that will clean up with traffic. Rock quality is quite good with the typical bit of grit that you get on A37 tuff. Gets progressively more and more challenging and ends with a technical, well-protected, and continuous crux sequence.
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Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : The Giants Molars : (05) Root Canal (5.10b)
By: Jason Hundhausen When: Jun 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Didn't like the look of this one, simply based on the fact that there's only three bolts on the whole route and blowing the second clip could put you very close to the deck. Didn't help that I had no guide for the area, so I didn't know the grade going in. 3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor (anchor has lowering biners).
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