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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Spaghetti Western Wall Area : (03) Toy Gun Show (5.5)
By: Jason Halladay When: 22 hours ago | view comment >> |
Comments: I added another bolt today between what was the 2nd and 3rd bolts which should make line safer for those leading at their limit on this line.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : The Nightcrawler (5.10b) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Karsten. We had climbed the route earlier in the morning and headed over to Armatron in the afternoon. When we talked to these guys heading up the route I was happy to see them wearing bright clothes knowing I could probably get some good shots from Armatron.
It's a beautiful line on an impressive face.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Juniper Canyon : Brownstone Wall : Armatron (5.9)
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Definitely an enjoyable route on some great rock up higher. I'd highly recommend topping out and signing the summit register. The view from the summit of the peak is astounding and the walk off goes quickly. Rapping down through some of that featured rock seems like it could easily result in a stuck rope anyway.
5.9 leaders should not be worried about the rating of this line. If there was any 5.9 climbing on this route I didn't notice it and the protection is great. The rest of the climbing ... more >>
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : (10) Flesh-Eating Gnats (5.11b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolt spacing between bolts 1 and 2 on this line is pretty spacious and could possibly result in a not-so-fun fall. That said, I've never seen anyone fall in that area. We did discover a .3 camalot fits pretty decently in a horizontal between B1 and B2 but didn't fully load test it. Maybe just enough psychological pro to help the leader move up.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L1) John Nichol's Wall : (02) Obamanos! (5.11)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bouldery, sequential, and pumpy climbing on good rock. The arete finish is icing on the cake. A very nice line.
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Location: NM : Taos Area : Utopian Vistas : (L1) John Nichol's Wall : (01) Writing Down the Bones (5.7) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for all your hard work up there, Mike. And double thanks for the great area organization here on MP! We'll be back up there again soon.
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Location: Jason Halladay : Personal Photos : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Rob. And indeed I do have it framed in my house. How'd you know? :-)
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Location: NM : Caballo Lake/ T or C
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is there any decent camping around this area or is it sketchy (a comment on one of the other pages under this area suggests carrying a gun!)? It would be quite the drive from up north so going down to spend a couple days would be ideal. Thanks.
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Location: NM : Taos Area
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 18, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The Taos-area article from last month's climbing magazine (plus perhaps some bonus material) is online at climbing.com. Good stuff Mike Howard, tim naylor, Jay Foley and others.
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Location: NM : Socorro : Box Canyon : Fillet et Papillon Wall
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: People taking the lowering biners bugs the hell out of me. Some things I've done is spray painting them black before putting them up and using some bailing wire to "fix" the biners on the chains. Certainly neither action keeps determined people from taking them but the paint makes the biners look much less appealing and the bailing wire sends the message that "yes, these are supposed to be here...someone didn't just happen to forget two biners on chains."
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Super Slab : ... : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is that an oxymoron?
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Location: AZ : Mount Lemmon : Punch and Judy Towers : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 30, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: What's the story behind this once-stuck porta potty?
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Cattle Call Wall : (04) Cow Flop Crack (5.8 PG13)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 24, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I noticed last weekend, 9/20/09, that this variation now sports two bolts before merging left into (03) Bovine Inspiration. Seems I recall that happening before and the bolt(s) was chopped?
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Location: Jason Halladay : Dungeon Stick Standard Oper... : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: You don't want to deck
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Location: Jason Halladay : Dungeon Stick Standard Oper... : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The second bolt on Against Nature (pictured here) is an easy one to clip because there are no obstructions below the bolt and the bolt's hanger sticks out at a slight angle.
Clipping the second bolt on Moat Jump is more difficult because it's pretty high and there is a block below the bolt.
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Location: Jason Halladay : Dungeon Stick Standard Oper... : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Frequent climbers of The Dungeon are likely familiar with The Dungeon Stick--the resident, natural clip stick. It's standard for climbers to stick clip the second bolt there because the ground level has risen after increasing floods as a result of soil instability from the Cerro Grande Fire of May 2000. This rise in the ground level left the first bolts of routes pretty low to the ground but the second bolts are way up there. Often routes have ... more >>
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : Y, The : North Wall of the Y : (13) Beastie Crack (5.9) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the story, Scott. That's wild to hear the soloing and downclimbing. I'd be impressed but nervous too.
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Location: NM : Rio Arriba County (El Rito,... : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Rad Wall : (09) Resurrection (5.10c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 19, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I also enjoyed this route. A stick clip for the first bolt would be nice and I did notice a couple juicy-looking hand-sized cobbles up high that looked like they could pull off. But they weren't loose. If you're one of those climbers that likes your routes meticulously cleaned, you may want to skip this one (or go clean it up).
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Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : Y, The : North Wall of the Y : (13) Beastie Crack (5.9) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Cool Scott! Any idea when this was taken?
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : (04) Garden Wall (5.6)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm reminded of a "entertaining" event there once. We were climbing (05) Drive By Shooting when this group of middle school-aged kids walked by and one started saying, "look y'all, those climbers need ropes to climb that stuff but look at it, it's easy. I don't need a rope, watch this..." and the kid headed up the Garden Wall while being egged on by his friends, "yeah, man, show 'em how it's done!" The kid got higher and higher and was definitely well above the point of no return (no easy downclimbing... more >>
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Gateway Rock : (04) Garden Wall (5.6)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: That's sort of a gray area in my opinion, Marc. And I don't think it speaks to the ethic of the day. My feeling on this was it's an entire wall and never was one route really identified as "the route" so yes, I took it upon myself to pick what looked like the best line (no doubt climbed before) and bolt protect it. I did ask around to see if I could identify an FA but that was not fruitful because of the vagueness of the actual route and fact that it had probably been soloed by high school ki... more >>
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Roadside Attraction Rock : (09) Crucible (5.8)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yeah, I'm not sure either Marc. What's up with that? I didn't hear a thing about it. Explain? Nature of the rock? Is the NMCRAG-donated anchor hardware still up there?
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the link, Dave. Those Fixe sport anchors are way quality and I've installed a few myself (when I could afford them.) I paint them with a primer spray paint to try to match the rock color and they don't hardly seem intrusive.
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Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Palomas Peak
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I was wondering if that Randy was the same Randy I know from Hardrock and Leadville. Cool. I might have contact info for him or at least know how to get it. I'll try for it...
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Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Upper East Fork : Monster Wall : (10) Werepig (5.11b/c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: A hold going past the first bolt came off last week, apparently. It's not significantly more difficult now but is a tad trickier. The route is "cleaning up" nicely. :-)
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