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Location: CO : North Table Mountain Adopt-...
By: Jason Haas When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Allen, the art pieces are still there and most are doing well. A few that were attached to the hanging cable have broken, though it seems more like because of fierce winds smashing them against the post rather than human malice because 1. none of the other pieces are broken and 2. the cable easily touches the wood when moved. All in all, they look great. Nice job installing them, they are a great addition.
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Location: CO : North Table Mountain Adopt-...
By: Jason Haas When: Nov 13, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just want to say thanks to everyone who has contacted me and was really psyched to come help out at the trail day. I was just up at the crag an hour ago checking things out and unfortunately we will have to reschedule for another time when the weather is a little nicer. I think the best plan is to just wait until the spring so we can plant some grass seed as well in some of the erosion concern areas. Thanks again for all the interest and I'll keep everyone posted.
Haas
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Snake Buttress
By: Jason Haas When: Nov 6, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tod, according to Climbing #111, you, Curt Fry and ?? Frizzell put up Wake of the Flood. Sound about right?
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Location: AR
By: Jason Haas When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The new comprehensive, color guidebook for the entire state by Cole Fennel and Fixed Pin Publishing is now available in stores. It details nearly 1500 routes and 350 boulder problems.
Areas described include:
Lake Lincoln
Shepherd Springs
Fern
Mt. Magazine
Dardanelle
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
Cowell
Haw Creek
Cave Creek
Deliverance
Valley of the Blind
Sam's Throne
Stack Rock
Jamestown Crag
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Location: AR : Sam's Throne and Surroundin...
By: Jason Haas When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The new comprehensive color guidebook to the state by Cole Fennel is now available in stores. This tome is 400 pages and describes nearly 1500 routes and 350 boulder problems.
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Location: AR : Horseshoe Canyon Ranch and ...
By: Jason Haas When: Nov 2, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The new comprehensive color guidebook to the state of Arkansas by Cole Fennel is now available in stores, including at the Ranch. The book is 400pages and describes nearly 1500 routes and 350 boulder problems.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Snake Buttress : Rude Boy AKA Rue Boy (5.10c X)
By: Jason Haas When: Oct 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Fremont, I climbed your new direct line about a month ago and thought it was good and quite difficult at the start. How hard did you think the start was, 5.11a/b? I actually grounded out from the top of that finger crack/seam when I tugged too hard trying to remove a plant blocking a much desired gear placement below the first bolt. Anyway, I did not find an anchor atop that short, weird offwdith/chimney thing but found it easy to continue up and left into the original line, doing it as a single... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Denver Climbers' Coalition ...
By: Jason Haas When: Oct 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bump. It starts at 9am. The clean up should be quick and would be a good "warm up" before a day of crushing in Clear Creek.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Snake Buttress : Seven Sharp (5.7)
By: Jason Haas When: Oct 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Please be very careful when rappelling off this anchor. The post above (and Trout's book) says this is an 85ft rappel and that a 60meter rope works fine. I made this rap straight down the face (just left of The Viper) and I barely had any rope left on a 70meter. Maybe you can angle more right with a 60meter? I don't know... be careful.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Snake Buttress
By: Jason Haas When: Oct 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Kevin Stricker is my hero and should be yours, too. This bad ass not only crushes, he also replaces more bolts down in the Platte than probably everyone else combined. Considering he only gets out once a month or so these days as most of his time is consumed with being a super psyched new dad, he is by far the coolest and most humble steward in the area I know. For example, he literally replaced every bolt on the entire Snake Buttress a year ago with the only exceptions being Ride um Rueboy (reb... more >>
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Snake Buttress : Hodge Podge (5.9)
By: Jason Haas When: Oct 11, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: While there are some thorn bushes on this route, they are all pretty easy to avoid. Also, in my opinion, the three pitches go from good to worse the higher you go.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area : Chicken Boulder : Full Moon (5.10)
By: Jason Haas When: Oct 5, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is worth doing since it's so close to the road. I also checked with the rangers when I did it last spring that this stays open during the normal raptor closure in the area. (So does Iron Angle Slab for that matter.)
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Green Mountain Pinnacle : Salsa Verde (5.11c)
By: Jason Haas When: Sep 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Years ago I got utterly spanked on this route. I went back a few months later with a buddy of mine and got spanked again and so I told my buddy that if he could flash it, I'd buy him a 6-pack. Not only did he flash it, he down-graded it. I chalked the incident off to Brian being a slab/vert master and me being a wanker. When I was working on the guidebook, I wanted to upgrade the route but kept remembering Brian flowing effortlessly up this thing. In the end, I left the grade the way it was, es... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Plumb Line Crag : Big Pink (5.11b)
By: Jason Haas When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'll admit, I thought this thing was a sandbag. I did Trip Master for the first time this weekend as well and thought Trip Master was easier than this, although I suppose the two climb very differently and fist size is key. All in all, it was still fun to be humbled.
About the gear, I only placed 3 #6 Camalots (new style)
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Nautilus : Left Torpedo Tube (5.10+)
By: Jason Haas When: Sep 7, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'm not inclined to say this often about a Vedauwoo route, but this thing felt soft to me. I've heard it compared to Crack of Fear in Lumpy and I gotta say, Crack of Fear is leagues harder than this route. Anyway, about the gear, I had an extra #6 Friend and a #6 Camalot (new style, which is bigger than the #6 Friend), and both were too small for the last 25-30ft. The climbing is easier (5.8-5.9) and feels pretty secure but if you want protection, bring a blue Big Bro.
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coyote Rocks : Home on the Range (5.14-)
By: Jason Haas When: Sep 4, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Proud send, Justin! It's got me psyched for this weekend up there!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Gregory Canyon (including T... : ... : Dialysis Bag (5.9- R)
By: Jason Haas When: Sep 3, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Chris,
Yes, this route is essentially a boulder problem without gear. It sounds like you started in the right spot (jug overhang right off the trail). Once you can stand up on the slab, it's a lichenous runout to the ridge without gear at about 40ftish. I remember there being a #1 Camalot placement near the start, but that wouldn't help much once you got going on the slab (5.5 R/X). I'd bring a pad and solo it over racking up personally as once you're at the 15ft mark, the hard part is ov... more >>
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Location: UT : Vernal area : Dinosaur National Monument
By: Jason Haas When: Aug 26, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Dustin, pitch 2 on actually went free before we ever got there, although I gotta say they were a strong party so we were nervous about the likelihood of P1 going free after they were unsuccessful with it.
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Location: UT : Vernal area : Dinosaur National Monument
By: Jason Haas When: Aug 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rob Pizem and I tried to free Kor's route on Steamboat Rock over the weekend. Unfortunately after all our effort, due to unforseen circumstances we had to leave a Ball Nut and a green Alien two-thirds of the way up the first pitch.
While most won't care, a few climbers have been wondering about the free potential of this route for quite some time. For those interested, the first pitch goes free to the 70% mark (above the bolt ladder) at 5.13a. We did not free the last bit of the upper part of ... more >>
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Location: Jason Haas : Exploring Mt. Evans : Photo
By: Jason Haas When: Aug 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: It ended up going free at mid-to-hard 5.11. (Big Bros helpful).
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : South : Seal Rock : East Face North Side/Seal R... (5.4)
By: Jason Haas When: Aug 16, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for doing that Vic, lots of people will really appreciate your contribution.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Achean Pronouncement : Electric Fountain Crack (5.8)
By: Jason Haas When: Aug 10, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sorry if the beta in my book felt off to you as there should have been a comment in the intro that all the cam sizes refer to the old Camalots (I'm old school and not a fan of the new #4 as it's too small). Hopefully the rest of the beta was good though?
Jason Haas
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Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head : The Headstone : Project (aka Who Haas Done ... (5.12d)
By: Jason Haas When: Aug 1, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I sent this route earlier this week. According to Richard Wright (the bolter) and Tod Anderson (guidebook author), it hadn't been done before. Hard to believe such a quality line has sat as an open project for so long, but I'll claim the FA if no one else will and call it "Who Haas Done It?" as a pun since I'll be surprised if someone else doesn't come out of the wood work and claim an earlier ascent. Good line, worth doing and thanks for bolting it Richard.
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Location: International : Thailand : Krabi/Phra Nang Peninsula (... : Railay East : Muay Thai : Muay Thai (5.10c/d)
By: Jason Haas When: Jun 29, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Having literally climbed every route at the 1-2-3/Mui Thai area, I thought this was the best route in the Mui-Thai/1-2-3 Area, but maybe that's just me.
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Location: CO : South Platte : Photo
By: Jason Haas When: Jun 12, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: indeed
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