Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Cat in the Hat (5.6) : Photo
By: Jason D. Martin When: 2 days ago | view comment >> |
Comments: Yep, that's what it looks like...
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Existential Wall
By: Jason D. Martin When: Apr 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I think this place will clean up eventually. Most routes in Red Rock have a fair bit of friable rock on them until they've seen a lot of use.
I put the stars on there because I felt that given some more traffic, these routes will become fun toprope lines.
Jason
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Splitting Hares (5.9)
By: Jason D. Martin When: Mar 31, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I climbed this route with Fran today and it was far better than expected. The bottom of the first pitch is a bit dirty, but after you're through that, it's quite fun climbing!
We broke the route up into three pitches and rapped off the bolts at the top of the second pitch of the Next Century. We were able to reach the ground with one double rope rappel.
About half way up the second pitch there was a fixed anchor which could be used to descend as well.
Jason
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Crabby Appleton Area
By: Jason D. Martin When: Oct 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Some rocks collapsed into that hole a couple of years ago. You have to go around the outside now...
Jason
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Tinkerbellfusse (5.8 X)
By: Jason D. Martin When: Sep 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: "The second pitch really deserves an R/X, if you miss the pro down low and if you don't go out left at all toward Birdland and protection."
This is totally in line with what the lost climbers claimed. In fact, I remember seeing one beginner/intermediate leader over there who was so scared he was almost to the point of tears because he was looking at a death fall. I stand by my original statement. It's -- without a doubt -- been climbed a number of times.
Jason
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Tinkerbellfusse (5.8 X)
By: Jason D. Martin When: Aug 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Sara,
It's definitely been done on multiple occasions. People used to really get lost up there. Many only had a weak route description with no picture, so they often ended up out in space to the right.
Jason
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Tinkerbellfusse (5.8 X)
By: Jason D. Martin When: Jul 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This line has been climbed on numerous occasions by individuals who are lost on Birdland. Before Birdland was in a guidebook -- but I was guiding it all the time -- I witnessed 10+ ascents of this line.
That's not to say that the name shouldn't stay for the variation.
Thanks for posting it!
Jason
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Red Springs Rock : Welcome to N.I.M.B.Y. (Not ... (5.8 PG13)
By: Jason D. Martin When: Mar 16, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: One of the poeple who did the FA put that bolt in.
Jason
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Arch Enemy (5.9)
By: Jason D. Martin When: Dec 15, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I just climbed this line again today and I think I'm going to stick with my 10a rating. It's definitely harder than Sunflower, Sundog, or Bhuela's Book...
Just below the bolts on the right hand side there is a double crack system. The upper of the two crack systems (the one further from the wall) harbors the smaller of the two cracks. This is a very inviting crack for #1 Camalots or the equivalent. Be aware that the flake that makes up this crack is loose. This piece of rock moved whe... more >>
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Cat in the Hat (5.6)
By: Jason D. Martin When: Nov 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: "A party recommenced clipping the 1st bolt of the arete variation and doing the traverse, which leaded to such heinous rope drag my partner had to leave the lead rope clipped to the last bolt and switch to the line we were trailing to rap."
This actually works if you're willing to run it out a long long way...however, as you found out...if you place gear before the top of the pod in the crack, there will be serious rope drag. If you don't place gear before that point, you risk a ground fall.
... more >>
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : First Creek Canyon : First Creek Slabs : Hot Flash (5.8)
By: Jason D. Martin When: Nov 7, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: I did the route yesterday and discovered that somebody has placed a number of bolts. The dust from their placement looks quite new. It appears that someone was rigging the route for rappelling.
Those who are interested in this route should be okay with some real run-outs. Leaders should be comfortable with some decent run-outs on 5.6 terrain and some extremely long run-outs at 5.5.
Be sure to move fast. Though the descent isn't really unusual for Red Rocks, it may feel a bit sporty to thos... more >>
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Magic Mountain : Cartwright Corner (5.10)
By: Jason D. Martin When: Apr 10, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The guide broke one ankle when he fell leading. The combination of bad rock and gear placements in bad rock didn't help his predicament. It sounds like his fall was due to pulling off a hold at a sketchy spot.
The guide was slated to take his $1500 rock guide's exam the following day. I don't know if he got a refund or a credit. But I do know that he wasn't a happy camper...
Jason
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : M & M (5.11-)
By: Jason D. Martin When: Mar 17, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Which route is this on the right? In other words, is it the third route from the end...? The fourth...? Was it already written up under a different name?
Jason
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Yin and Yang Cliff
By: Jason D. Martin When: Mar 8, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolts have been removed. See the anonymous letter submitted by Todd.
Jason
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Yin and Yang Cliff
By: Jason D. Martin When: Feb 18, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Was up at Yin Yang today... I don't know who put in the glue-ins but they look a little sketchy. There are globs of phlem yellow glue hanging out of the bolt holes. There is no doubt in my mind that this was someone's first attempt at glue-ins. Too bad they had to experiment at such a nice little area.
I'd suggest backing up these bolts for awhile until we see whether the installer knew what he was doing or not...
Jason
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : 2007 Red Rock Rendezvous
By: Jason D. Martin When: Jan 28, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Here it is:
http://www.mountaingear.com/rr07/index.aspx
Jason
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Sunspot Ridge (5.8)
By: Jason D. Martin When: Jan 20, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: This was a really fun route!
The route is a bit on the loose side. It might be a good idea to avoid matching hands on holds...especially on some of the more run out pitchs.
The combination of loose rock and run-outs warrants an R rating. However, I think that if this route becomes popular, much of the loose rock will get pulled off.
I don't think that any individual move is harder than 5.7. But as Doug stated there are some variations here and there.
I believe this is the longest individu... more >>
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Calico Basin : Cut Your Teeth Crag
By: Jason D. Martin When: Jan 6, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Directly underneath the Cut Your Teeth Cliff there are two bolts above a chimney. Does anyone know what this is?
Jason
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Solar Slab - Upper Tier : Sunburn (5.7)
By: Jason D. Martin When: Dec 21, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I would probably give the chimney pitch 5.7+.
This is a great route, but it needs a little pruning here and there...
Jason
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Birdland (5.7+) : Photo
By: Jason D. Martin When: Dec 4, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd have to argue that both routes are Birdland. Nobody seems to really differentiate the two starts from one another when describing the route locally. About fifty-percent of the people climbing Birdland do the left variation and about fifty-percent do the right variation. Both variations were originally used to access Bighorn...so one could argue that Birdland doesn't really start until pitch three.
Jason
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Rawlpindi (5.7)
By: Jason D. Martin When: Nov 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: An enjoyable outing...but those who have just started to lead 5.7 or those without excellent gear placement skills should be careful on the fourth pitch. An R rating may be appropriate here.
Jason
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Pazookieland (5.7)
By: Jason D. Martin When: Oct 12, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: These two pitches are the same pitches described for the start of Rawalpindi.
Jason
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Mescalito : Cat in the Hat (5.6)
By: Jason D. Martin When: May 1, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: A quick added note on rappelling with a sixty meter rope:
It is possible to do the rappels from the slung block under the bolted 5.10 variation in two rappels to the tree rappel. There are some slung blocks climber's right of the route behind an arete. By rapping to these, one may avoid downclimbing the lower moves with a single rope.
Jason
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Pine Creek Canyon : Brass Wall : Birdland (5.7+) : Photo
By: Jason D. Martin When: Apr 22, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I added the variations I was aware of. I'm not sure exactly where Rawlpindi goes as I have not done it, but I've seen new bolts up there.
Maybe someone can add a line for the Rawlpindi route to this beta photo.
In addition to this, this is not my photo but one from the Spectrum description.
Jason
|
Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Eagle Dance (5.10 A1)
By: Jason D. Martin When: Apr 15, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rumor is that the aid section went free the other day. Hopefully more beta will be on the way by the person who did it.
Jason
|
RSS Feed
