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Rock Climbing Photo: Moss


Member Since: Apr 21, 2012
Last Visit: 22 hours ago
Contact Jason Todd

Point Rank: # 1,162
Total Points: 659
Last Year: 148
Last 30 Days: 6
3 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jason Todd been climbing?










Contributions


All 648 | Routes 26 | Areas 4 | Photos 62 | Page Improvements | Comments 29 | Posts 263 | Stars 197 | Ratings 67
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: WY : Devil's Tower
By: Jason Todd When: 6 days ago

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Comments: The South Face Lower Buttress area will be your best bet for some top roping with only half a day to climb. The area is easy to get to and should be relatively free of climbers above you. There are a lot of 5.7-5.9 routes/variations.


Location: WY : Absaroka Range : Pilot Peak : Standard Route, Southwest F... (5.7 R)
By: Jason Todd When: May 28, 2016

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Comments: Mees and McKenzie were harder than you in 1932:





Location: MT : Revenue Flats : The Wafers : Simon Lohbeck Memorial (5.11d)
By: Jason Todd When: May 25, 2016

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Comments: Lohbeck is the correct spelling.


Location: CA : Central Coast : San Luis Obispo : Morro Bay Harbor : Morro Rock : The Michael Banks Proposal ... (5.3 X)
By: Jason Todd When: Apr 21, 2016

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Comments: I thought it was about 5.1+, but my belayer kept yelling, "5-Oh, 5-Oh, 5-Oh!".
The screaming monkey in my head told me she was just sandbagging me. It wasn't until the police heli crested the ridge before I realized what she was talking about.


Location: WY : Guernsey State Park : Area 5: Red and White Grot... : Switchbax Power Tower Wall : Leaving Stonerville (5.9)
By: Jason Todd When: Apr 15, 2016

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Comments: Noticed this before I got dizzy:

Rock Climbing Photo: Need a longer draw!
Need a longer draw!


There is significant risk to breaking that carabiner if you were to fall on it. Use a longer draw to not lever a carabiner over an edge.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : Durrance Approach : Fritz's Fantasy (5.10b/c)
By: Jason Todd When: Mar 27, 2016

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Comments: Yes. You have to climb the Durrance Approach pitch, but it is plenty easy if Fritz's Fantasy is your goal.


Location: WY : Sheridan Area : Piney Creek Canyon
By: Jason Todd When: Mar 17, 2016

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Comments: For the eastern Bighorns, most local developers have been putting in 3/8 x 3 1/2" 5 piece bolts for pro with 1/2" x long bolts for anchors. Camouflaged hangers have been standard in this area. Rap with power is the norm unless it is easier to do ground up.


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Edwards' Crack (5.7) : Photo
By: Jason Todd When: Mar 4, 2016

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Comments: Most of it.

Here is a pic with the full route:
mountainproject.com/v/10818413...


Location: WY : Cody : South Fork Shoshone (Ice)
By: Jason Todd When: Feb 23, 2016

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Comments: The big bears are coming out of hibernation early this year. There was a confirmed sighting in the park this week (2/23/16). They are in the Southfork, so be aware.


Location: MT : Mill Creek : The Great Awakening Wall : Sawed Off Heads Variation (5.10+ R) : Photo
By: Jason Todd When: Feb 17, 2016

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Comments: Kind of small format for a beta photo.


Location: WY : Cody
By: Jason Todd When: Feb 11, 2016

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Comments: There is a whole lotta climbing to be had in Cody.

Get the new (2016) guide here:

Cody Climbing


Location: WY : Sheridan Area : Steamboat Point
By: Jason Todd When: Nov 4, 2015

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Comments: There are plenty of trad lines here. Unfortunately, the dolomite is generally very sharp and unpleasant to jam in this area. The protection is also tricky, with a lot of constrictions and "weak" placements. Passive pro is usually better. The face climbing however is great.


Location: WY : Sheridan Area : Piney Creek Canyon : The Shipyard : Paintbrush Arete (5.10c)
By: Jason Todd When: Oct 19, 2015

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Comments: Also, the anchors are vertically staggered and not equalized on both pitches, not sure if additional hardware was intended to be added or what...

I haven't seen this specific anchor, but given that Sam put it up, I'd guess it is a "French Style" anchor. A pretty trick (and safe) system that is fighting an uphill battle for acceptance in the US. There is no equalization in a French Style anchor, but then again there is only the illusion of actual equalization in most anchors with rigid... more >>


Location: WY : Sheridan Area : Piney Creek Canyon
By: Jason Todd When: Jun 4, 2015

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Comments: Nice addition of the hooks on the well travelled routes! Thanks much for your work Trevor.


Location: WY : Sheridan Area : Piney Creek Canyon : Trailside Wall : Hands Off/ Pants Off (5.10a)
By: Jason Todd When: Jun 4, 2015

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Comments: Fun route, in a Type 2 sort of way!
Looks totally cruizer from the base, but turned into a swell blue collar grovel.


Location: SD : Custer State Park : Needles Eye : The Thimble : Photo
By: Jason Todd When: May 27, 2015

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Comments: To my count, 50% of the well known free solo climbers as of three years ago are now dead from free solo accidents sustained in climbs well below their technical skill levels.

According to Todd Snider:
"64 percent of all the world's statistics are made up right there on the spot
82.4 percent of people believe 'em whether they're accurate statistics or not"

Your count is unsubstantiated.

I am not a climber except for top roping but I am an orthopedic surgeon.

I'm not a doctor... more >>


Location: Community Forum : : Post : Photo
By: Jason Todd When: Apr 12, 2015

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Comments: Not mine.

Original thread here:


mountainproject.com/v/-/108238...


Original video here:




Location: SD : Custer State Park : Photo
By: Jason Todd When: Mar 4, 2015

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Comments: Threading the Needle

There is gear and a couple bolts.


Location: WY : Devil's Tower : South and East Faces : TAD (5.7)
By: Jason Todd When: Sep 14, 2014

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Comments: Take a #5 or two for the crux wide at the top of P1, forget about face climbing trickery to the left to avoid the wide. Embrace it!
The belay sucks, but all things worthwhile require a bit of suffering. The reward comes on P2 with straight in perfect hands for 100'+.


Location: WY : Shirley Mountains : Cliffs Beyond Difficulty : No Difficulty Here (5.9) : Photo
By: Jason Todd When: Sep 10, 2014

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Comments: Madison FM?
Chances are pretty slim for us lightweights to show up here. Looking forward however to clipping your bolts at 4 Storys and Reece.


Location: WY : Shirley Mountains : Cliffs Beyond Difficulty : No Difficulty Here (5.9) : Photo
By: Jason Todd When: Sep 10, 2014

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Comments: Looks chosstacular!


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Wrinkled Rock Campground
By: Jason Todd When: Aug 30, 2014

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Comments: Camped there a couple times this summer. Didn't see any No Camping signs.


Rock Climbing Photo: Wrinkled Rock Camping
Wrinkled Rock Camping



Location: WY : Sheridan Area : Steamboat Point
By: Jason Todd When: Aug 27, 2014

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Comments: A message to whomever is doing the new routing up here:

1) Cool, we're all stoked to have new lines opened up. Thanks.
2) Please camouflage your hangers. Previous and current developers in the area have been very diligent in painting hardware to blend in. Catching glimmers off the raw hangers from the highway isn't cool.


Location: SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : Monster : Picture Window : Gossamer (5.7)
By: Jason Todd When: Jul 27, 2014

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Comments: If you don't like this climb, you hate America.


Location: WY : Sheridan Area : Piney Creek Canyon : Second Wind Wall : Refrigerator Chimney (5.9+)
By: Jason Todd When: Aug 16, 2013

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Comments: From the upper anchors, a single 60M rope will just make it to the base of the climb.


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