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Member Since: Oct 18, 2004
Last Visit: Sep 10, 2010
Contact Jason Shatek


Point Rank: # 3,299
Total Points: 148
Last Year: 0
Last 30 Days: 0
2 Compliments
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jason Shatek been climbing?










Contributions


All 147 | Routes 1 | Areas | Photos 12 | Page Improvements | Comments 78 | Posts 1 | Stars 35 | Ratings 20
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock : Village Idiot (5.9)
By: Jason Shatek When: Jun 21, 2009

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Comments: Casey, I believe that's Staircase Direct, it's in the Falcon guidebook, it's an 8.

Also, thought this climb was much easier than 5.9, more like 5.8.

I think this climb could be done on natural pro. The bolt placements are all next to cracks? If I do the climb on natural pro, will the FA let me chop the bolts?


Location: CO : South Platte : Elevenmile Canyon : Arch Rock : Zendance (5.7 PG13)
By: Jason Shatek When: Jun 21, 2009

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Comments: Cool route, 4 pieces in 100 ft was a bit light. Nothing like taking a 50 ft'er if you blow the clip. Used a green Alien in the seam, technical crux was right off the ground, mental crux right before the second bolt, cuz you're gonna deck, no question, if you miss that clip.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Nip and Tuck : Antagonism (5.12a/b)
By: Jason Shatek When: May 30, 2009

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Comments: Tried this one on top rope. At the bottom you're like wow I'm climbing a 12, then reality sets in at the roof and its welcome to I-still-suck-ville.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: Jason Shatek When: Apr 14, 2009

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Comments: 4 star route. The bulge is certainly memorable, as is the Robbins' traverse. Each pitch has something that will get your attention. All in all a great route and certainly a classic. A lot of the pitches have awesome exposure. Before I did this route, I was looking for beta on the piton ladder pitch. Think thin, airy moves, but it's all there and the protection is good until you get to the Robbins' traverse. Next time I think we'll do the 5.10 bolts. The traverse is runout and probably mor... more >>


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Rochambeau (5.9)
By: Jason Shatek When: Dec 3, 2008

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Comments: Its not a gimme climb, you still have to motor in some spots. The climb is pretty good but it's not a very asthetic line and it was kinda sandy in there. Most of the rests are pretty good.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Way Rambo : Blue Sun (5.10-)
By: Jason Shatek When: Dec 3, 2008

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Comments: sweet route! I don't have large hands and I thought the jams were perfect. The last 10-15 feet after the rest I thought the hands would be difficult because the hands would be big, but I didn't have any problems. All the jams felt great. On supercrack the hands definately get a little rattely.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Critic's Choice : Bunny Slope (5.9)
By: Jason Shatek When: Dec 3, 2008

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Comments: take a lot of #2 camalots and a few 3s. A couple small cams works for the lower portion,


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Incredible Hand Crack (5.10c)
By: Jason Shatek When: Dec 3, 2008

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Comments: "Well, if perfect hands is your thing" uttered to us by another climber while we were waiting for the climb. The hands really are perfect and the crack is a bit tapered so it fits a lot of hand sizes.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Indian Creek : Supercrack Buttress : Supercrack of the Desert (5.10)
By: Jason Shatek When: Dec 3, 2008

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Comments: A #2 camalot and a yellow mastercam protect the technical crux at the bottom. Once in the crack, a #2 will work for about 10 feet after the roof. Also, crowds weren't a problem, I didn't see many people near supercrack.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Animal World : Cannabis Sportiva (5.11a)
By: Jason Shatek When: Aug 18, 2008

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Comments: I thought this was a 10ish route. Probably 10c or d even with the left crack. A few balancy moves followed by some beat your chest ape moves. The horn makes it just plain fun and the bolts are very well placed. Kudos to the bolter.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : The Wind Tower : Wind Tower - SW Face : Lemmings (5.8)
By: Jason Shatek When: Aug 18, 2008

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Comments: I thought this variation was great! It adds another few fun moves to west overhang. I thought it was more like a 5.7 roof though, It was pretty easy. Also, I used a nut and an orange Alien for pro through the crux. Don't take a #4, it's not necessary. Fun variation but only an extra move or two,


Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Walt's Wall : Edwards' Crack (5.7)
By: Jason Shatek When: Aug 9, 2007

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Comments: Paul, it almost sounds like it was me you saw climbing only this was about two weeks ago. For us the storm came from the north cuz we definately didn't see the it coming. The first pitch was awesome! It didn't start raining till I was about 1/2 way up the second pitch. While climbing the second pitch it must have rained an inch in a 1/2 hour (all while drowning my partner Mollie). It made the crux and raps very memorable! After we got down we watched another guy in jeans and smoking do the ... more >>


Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Petit Grepon : South Face (5.8)
By: Jason Shatek When: Aug 9, 2007

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Comments: Climbed this a couple days ago with my compadre Larry Pedigo. For the hike we debated between shoes and boots. Definitely wear boots, as you will have to climb up a stream to get to Sky Pond. Our climb went good, no issues until the rap, although we were behind a group of three which ultimately slowed us down considerably. After an excellent last pitch we summited around 1:00pm, it rained and rained and rained the rest of the afternoon with a lot of thunder and lightning. We did the first r... more >>


Location: CA : Yosemite National Park : Yosemite Valley : Manure Pile Buttress (aka R... : Nutcracker (5.8)
By: Jason Shatek When: Jun 28, 2007

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Comments: Awesome climb!!!!!!!! One of the best I've done!


Location: CO : Boulder : Upper Dream Canyon : Lost Angel : Raise the Titanic (5.11b)
By: Jason Shatek When: Aug 2, 2006

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Comments: This is a totally fun route with really well placed bolts. The initial crux is best surmounted by stemming. The roof is stiff but can be done well if you can keep your feet low and underneath you. 5 bolts and a two bolt anchor. When surmounting the roof look for the secret handhold out right.


Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : Ruper (5.8+)
By: Jason Shatek When: Jul 22, 2006

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Comments: Did upper and lower Ruper today, ultra fun climb!!!!!! The gear sucks through the upper roof, I found lots of pieces to slot, but the rock is so bad I doubt they would have held a fall. The last piton looked ok, my advice, just go for it. As the roof ends you can put in a 1 or 2 Camalot that's solid, you just have to hold on till then. FYI, there was plenty of rope left for the last pitch, so you don't have to set up your belay right under the upper roof. It's better to belay 20-30 feet bel... more >>


Location: CO : Estes Park Valley : Lumpy Ridge : The Book : The Pages Wall Area : The Cave Exit (5.7+)
By: Jason Shatek When: May 30, 2006

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Comments: I did the cave exit last Saturday and somehow made this way, way harder than 5.7. There is a jam in the roof that is so good you can literally hang off of it as I did. I sewed this up with a red Alien in the ledge under the pin, then clipped the good-looking pin then put an orange Alien into the roof (I was a little nervous).


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag
By: Jason Shatek When: May 30, 2006

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Comments: The peace signs were there on Saturday, May 20th. They look really bad! Does anyone know how to get the paint off without damaging the rock? Happy Hour is one of my favorite rocks and I hate to see it damaged like that. If someone has experience getting paint off of rock, please let me know. Is paint thinner the best way to get this off?


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Elephant Buttresses : Second Buttress : Tough Situation (5.9+)
By: Jason Shatek When: May 17, 2006

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Comments: Took me a few trips to send this one, I thought this went at 5.9+ at the crux. I also thought the climbing was sustained 5.8+/5.9- up the rest of the crack. The rests seemed thin and for me; it was an endurance race to see if I could make the top without burning out. But, I was probably placing too many pieces as I was nervous after seeing that guys ankles, ouch! That said, great climb, but it's not over after the crux!


Location: CO : Colorado Springs : Garden of the Gods : Montezuma Tower : North Ridge (5.7)
By: Jason Shatek When: Apr 17, 2006

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Comments: Did this one yesterday. Fun climb. Felt very exposed with balancy moves for a 5.7, not a lot of hand holds, more of a trust your feet route. I was sad to see that this route has clearly been altered in a most profound way! There are many "steps" that have been carved into the rock. This route should be in the "chipped" section on this website as there can be no question this route was altered to make it easier. The steps are less than 6 inches apart and some are newer than others!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Bent Faith (5.7)
By: Jason Shatek When: Mar 21, 2006

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Comments: Cool little route, instead of going straight to the top with no pro we hung a right on the ledge, through a bush and then up a crack with some cool moves.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : I, Robot (5.7)
By: Jason Shatek When: Mar 21, 2006

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Comments: Cool crux, it's lots of fun if you only use the finger crack and don't wimp out and go left. There is a fixed stopper at the crux as of 3/18/06. I would say only using the finger crack by itself could go at 5.8.


Location: AZ : Central Arizona : Phoenix Areas : Camelback Mountain : The Praying Monk
By: Jason Shatek When: Mar 20, 2006

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Comments: Went up this one last Friday. Found it easy for 5.6. The bolts are well placed and the holds are very positive. High exposure and a great view makes this climb worthwhile.


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Happy Hour Crag : Last Call (5.9)
By: Jason Shatek When: Jan 2, 2006

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Comments: Remember those 5.9 overhangs in the gym that you thought didn't exist outside? There is nothing slight about the overhang IMHO. A fantastic climb at the grade with plentiful pro; albeit a little tricky to place going around the roof. This was an awesome climb, I can't wait to do it again!


Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : East Slab (5.6)
By: Jason Shatek When: Nov 21, 2005

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Comments: You don't need anything outside a standard rack; you don't need a lot of big gear. On 11/20/05 there were 4 parties lined up to do this route when we walked off "East of the Sun". Get there early if you want to do this popular route!


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