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Member Since: Sep 23, 2013
Last Visit: Dec 4, 2014
Contact Jason Nelson 1


Point Rank: # 5,029
Total Points: 80
Last Year: 76
Last 30 Days: 20
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



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Contributions


All 30 | Routes 2 | Areas | Photos 10 | Page Improvements | Comments 10 | Posts 1 | Stars 7 | Ratings

Contributed Comments

 

Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Hall of Justice : Somewhere Over the Rainbow (5.10 WI4 M11 PG13)
By: Jason Nelson 1 When: Nov 9, 2014

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Comments: New descent beta: you can now rap the route back to the midway ledge (1 70m rope), then move climber's right about 30' to an anchor for 2 more raps. The second rap that takes you to the ledge requires you to kick and swing to make it back into the wall and reach the ledge.


Location: UT : Zion National Park : Mt. Kinesava : Cowboy Ridge (5.7)
By: Jason Nelson 1 When: Oct 25, 2014

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Comments: The approach is very long and much of it is on trail-less loose desert terrain. You really have to look for footsteps in the dirt to stay on track for much of it. Once on the ridge crest, you are rewarded with great scrambling terrain. There were cairns marking the descent (fortunately), otherwise it would be difficult to find. I would describe the descent as being past the main summit a few hundred yards and you walk just beyond some rock hoodoos. At first it does not feel like a gully that... more >>


Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : The Pool Wall : Lunch Bucket? (dubbed No Se... (5.10b)
By: Jason Nelson 1 When: Mar 8, 2014

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Comments: I believe this route is supposed to be named Lunch Bucket and was bolted by Luke Childers. It was dubbed "No Se" as I nobody seemed to know the name. Romper Room is to the right, and I bolted that one.


Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : The Pool Wall
By: Jason Nelson 1 When: Mar 7, 2014

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Comments: The steep ones above the Alcove are in the 5.12 range and are in the guidebook.


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Hall of Justice : Somewhere Over the Rainbow (5.10 WI4 M11 PG13)
By: Jason Nelson 1 When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: Rock and Ice did a write up of this route here: rockandice.com/lates-news/new-...


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Hall of Justice : Pull the Trigger, Tigga (M11+)
By: Jason Nelson 1 When: Feb 24, 2014

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Comments: There is an extension that goes beyond the first set of anchors for another five bolts or so and then back right to anchors on Holy Girlpile Batman. I suppose you could also continue climbing out the arch (Arch Villain) for an even better pump and that would likely be about 12 more bolts!


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Camp Bird Road : Snow Blind Friend, Walk the... (5.9+ WI4+ M6 X)
By: Jason Nelson 1 When: Dec 8, 2013

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Comments: Since the route was more or less "lost and forgotten" for the past 20 years, I would say give it some time before anyone rushes to remove bolts. Give it some time and see what (if any) consensus forms. Maybe it will be lost and forgotten again and whomever's time was intended on removing the bolts could be spent doing other things. Or, maybe the ice will continue to flow on this thing in the years to come and the bolts will be unnecessary and not missed.

Regardless, I would say leave the an... more >>


Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : Ouray (Ice/Mixed) : Hall of Justice : Zero to Hero (M12)
By: Jason Nelson 1 When: Oct 31, 2013

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Comments: Here is a video of the route:

This video was done prior to the route being extended. Now it continues straight up above the lip of the cave, out a roof, and onto the arete of the arch the forms on the right side of the cave. Once the angle eases on the arete, step left into the dihedral and head to a two bolt anchor. You'll want a 60m rope.
Oh, and Marc Beverly also deserves credit for helping to bolt this line with me.


Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : Ouray Rotary Park-Rink Wall : Industrial Measures (5.11d)
By: Jason Nelson 1 When: Sep 23, 2013

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Comments: I never did complete the final (3rd pitch). It's been bolted, but I think a bolt needs to be moved and likely needs some cleaning. Hopefully this fall I'll be able to get to it.


Location: CO : Ouray vicinity (rock) : Waterfall Wall : The Mist (5.12)
By: Jason Nelson 1 When: Sep 23, 2013

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Comments: I remember some stoppers being crucial on the headwall of P2.