Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Climbing at the Belvedere crag near Nago with a gr...


Member Since: Oct 19, 2005
Last Visit: 1 hour ago
Contact Jason Halladay


Point Rank: # 33
Total Points: 9,032
Last Year: 1,482
Last 30 Days: 24
696 Compliments
How do you get points?
Areas = 15
Routes = 10
Photos = 5
Page Improvements = 3
Comments = 1



Where has Jason Halladay been climbing?










Contributions


All 5030 | Routes 333 | Areas 56 | Photos 859 | Page Improvements | Comments 567 | Posts 393 | Stars 1642 | Ratings 1180
Page 1 of 23.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>

Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area
By: Jason Halladay When: 1 day ago

view comment >>
Comments: I had all but given up on updating the PDF guide for this area but after seeing it in the hands of a number of different groups up at the crag this year, I updated it again this month.

The November 2014 update of the PDF guide includes seven new routes and a mention of the new El Norte area (but not any of the routes since I haven't climbed any of them.)


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Winter Wall : Post Moderate (5.9)
By: Jason Halladay When: 5 days ago

view comment >>
Comments: I climbed the route today, 11/21/2014, with hardware to replace the top anchors but found them to still be in fine, safe condition so I didn't do any work. They're Raumer springer stainless steel shuts worn about 1/3 of the way through. FWIW,we were not worried at all about using the hardware.
Considering most folks rappel off the hardware, these are wearing very slowly. With the static weight of a rappeling climber, th... more >>


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Pinnacle Valley : Tombstone : West Face Direct (5.8)
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: The moves right above the rusty 1/4" bolts at the start are the most difficult on the entire route. Thankfully a there's a decent nut placement just left of the bolts.
We did the route in one single pitch with a 70m rope and diligent rope management. We suspect it could be done in one pitch with a 60m rope just belaying a bit below the top of the formation. The chimney near the top is really fun and, despite being short, some of the best 5.8 climbing I've done in the Sandias.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Oak Creek Canyon : Eagle Wall : Levitation 29 (5.11) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Nov 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Fifth pitch, 450 feet off the ground!.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Area 37 : Fatigue (5.10)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for the clarification on the quickdraw numbers. I've modified the Protection information accordingly. it's also good to know that with a 70m rope you can lower down to the anchors at the top of Cyclic Loader.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc...
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 20, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for the input fellas. A re-org of the area is on my list. Any others out there have an opinion on the re-org of The Grotto area?


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Love Shack Area : The Other Woman (5.10)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 19, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I feel this is the best line of the newer 9s and 10s at the Love Shack. Cool features, steep climbing on big jugs and an airy finish. Thanks for the work to establish it and removing all the poo.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto End (R. Side) : ... : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 15, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: That line was just a little too hard for most people and needed a small crimp right there.

Seriously, though, it's a tan bolt hanger spun upwards a bit and not a bolted-on climbing hold.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto End (R. Side) : Tweak Fuck (5.14a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 15, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I've sent a message to Ben Hanna, this route's contributor, requesting information for Description, Location and Protection.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc...
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 13, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I like the idea of a reorganization of the areas to make it more clear. The organization of the Grotto here has always confused me and even after many years of climbing there, I'm still confused by it. :-)
Grotto Left (East) and Grotto Right (West) would be clean. Any thoughts on sub-areas in within these two areas or is that too much and not really needed?


Location: NM : Enchanted Tower : Frog Prince : The Worrier or the Warrior (5.10d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Oct 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Good to know, Alex, thanks. We're likely to be there again this weekend and I'll take a peek. I'm making it a point to climb this route each time I'm there to help clean it up a bit more. I don't think it's dangerous in any way, just new and flaky which might be a bit too much for those unaccustomed to how new routes on this rock climb.


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 9, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: No problem. I've changed the caption and moved the photo to the Sandias area instead.


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 8, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: In addition to the route George describes between Chronostasis and Crestone Puddin', Walt established another new line between Imitation Strawberry and Goiter Grabber called Bloody Turnip (5.10+). Fun line with a distinct crux at the bulge.

The shorty in the small bowl left of the Black Cave is unnamed as of yet but goes at 5.5 or 5.6 and is super fun! It's like navigating a maze of huge, solid plank-like cobbles protruding from the wall. Also, left of this route in the bowl area is a short, sharp are... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Love Shack Area : Take That Space Coyote (5.12b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 6, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Good news, the seeping holds at the start were temporary, just lasting a couple weeks after the heavy rains in August. It's all dry at the start now.
The wrap-around handlebar hold at the second-to-last bolt is one of the cooler holds in the Jemez.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Area 37 : Bag of Sand (5.11c/d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Sep 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Hey skelldify, my wife, at 5'5" with a -1 AI has beta for it that works. Problem is, we climb the route only a few times a year and have to relearn the beta each time. I tend to think it's a bit easier for short folks, actually. But 6'1" with a +4.5 AI would be nice too!


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 31, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Thanks for the input guys


Location: NM : Albuquerque Area Climbing : Sandia Mountains : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I don't believe this to be Muralla Grande and the Second Coming but can't identify the formation. Anyone?


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Retirement Wall : The Stroke (5.11-)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 28, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I think this was originally rated 5.12b as the FA party stayed on the face for the crux. But if one moves left to the arete at the crux (which felt natural to me), it climbs at 5.11-.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Jemez Cave (a.k.a. Crystal ...
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 25, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: A reminder to all climbers, the Jemez Cave (a.k.a. Crystal Cave) is closed to all activities including climbing. This is a sensitive, tenuous situation and climbing in the cave reflects very poorly on the climbing community. The cave is obviously closed with signage and physical barriers in place so there's no excuse for continuing to climb here. Please do the climbing community a favor and avoid this cave.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas : Love Shack Area : Duck and Cover (5.10)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 13, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Mighty fun line. Not your typical sport route with a good bit of finger crack climbing. In that vein, 5.10 leaders may desire a finger-sized piece between the third and fourth bolt.


Location: UT : Moab Area : Fisher Towers : The Cobra : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 5, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: I saw the news reports off the toppling and noticed most of the stories using this photo as the "before" shot. Sad news but a fine reminder that geologic time includes now.


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Main Wall : Goiter Grabber (5.11a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Awesome Rich! I'm really glad to hear you enjoyed it out there...it's a sweet spot with some entertaining climbing. I'm already looking forward to fall colors (and temps) there. Gorgeous. Bummer to hear about the bees on Pickled Punks...I think that's a great little line! Glad you survived.
We'll check on the tags and clear up any confusion the next time we're out but I'm sure you're right about the mix up.

Edit: Confusion has been cleared up. Tags are now in the proper places. :)


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 4, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: As you will probably find out, our suggested ratings here are certainly just ballpark guesses and most likely soft.
As the routes clean up and chalk up, I fully expect the routes to feel easier. Routes tend to feel a bit harder when they're brand new, one is a bit cautious about pulling hard and the best holds aren't chalked up.


Location: NM : El Rito : Little River Wall : Main Wall : Goiter Grabber (5.11a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 3, 2014

view comment >>
Comments: Seems to be confusion on this route and the next right one. The first route right of the 5.9 was in the sustained 5.10/10+ range and has the cobbles of ill reput name tag on it. It was one of the best i did that day. I'm guessing this one is "cobbles.....". There was another steep route to the right and maybe it is goitter grabber? That one has the. 5.8 to the right and could have an easier escape to the right. I didn't do the right of the 2. We need Jason to chime in and clarify ... more >>


Location: NV : Red Rock : Willow Spring : Ragged Edges Area : Chicken Eruptus (5.10 R)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 29, 2014

view comment >>
Comments:
Kevin Dahlstrom wrote:
I toprope soloed this route 3 times yesterday and think it's a 1.5 star route...

I think you missed out on the primary reason this route is so rewarding and good...leading it with its creative and intermittent gear. The rock quality and moves are way good but the real charm in the route comes when you lead it.


Page 1 of 23.  1  2  3  4  5   Next>   Last>>