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Rock Climbing Photo: Los Alamos Reservoir area arete project. August 20...


Member Since: Oct 19, 2005
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Jason Halladay
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Areas = 15
Routes = 10
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All 5640 | Routes 366 | Areas 68 | Photos 969 | Page Improvements | Comments 635 | Posts 496 | Stars 1829 | Ratings 1277
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Contributed Comments

 

Location: NM : New Mexico, other Northern ... : Sugarite State Park : Little Horse Mesa : Bush Doctor (5.10b/c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 10, 2016

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Comments:
George Perkins wrote:
This description is word-for word copied from the guidebook, and should be deleted or improved, unless it was done with Dennis Jackson's consent.

I contacted both Dennis Jackson and CaseyE about the route descriptions many of these Sugarite routes. It was a good, civilized discussion about a mix-up. We've decided to leave the routes listed and replace the descriptions with text offering the route entry be assigned to any user ... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Las Conchas
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 7, 2016

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Comments: There are ~4 sport climbs way farther down, in the East Fork Box, for those into a bit more exploration and a beautiful hike. I think they are in the 5.11 to 5.12 ranges-- I've heard a bit of information. From my understanding, the FAs (Heath Bailey and Shibli Fazal?) have largely moved on from route development in the area, so I highly doubt there's an issue with me mentioning them, but let me know if there is and I'@SEMICOL... more >>


Location: NM : El Rito
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 6, 2016

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Comments: Heads up, as of 8/6/2016, rain flooding has washed out portions of FR44 to the El Rito sport and trad climbing areas.
See El Rito, NM area forest road washout for more details.


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Standby Shack (a.k.a. The S... : Main Wall : Lower Tempest (5.8)
By: Jason Halladay When: Aug 2, 2016

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Comments: I don't recall the name being changed on MP at any time but I concur with Dave and Amy the name is over-the-top crass. I've changed it per Amy's suggestion to "Lower Tempest" from the original name "Asian Whore". I include the original name here in my comment in case someone really takes issue with the name change here on MP and would like to know the original name.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Crag 121 (a.k.a Rabbit Rock...
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 24, 2016

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Comments: I recently spoke to a longtime Los Alamos climber and LA Mountaineer and he told me about Ken Ewing and other Los Alamos Mountaineers climbing on this rock, and Battleship Rock, in the 1950s for practice climbing. He didn't recall what they called it but suggested "Rabbit Rock" on account of its shape and proximity to nearby Rabbit Mountain.
I find it pretty cool to have learned of this history. I w... more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Crag 121 (a.k.a Rabbit Rock... : Drumpf (5.8)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 24, 2016

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Comments: Oh, no worries, I didn't take the comment as argumentative in any way. I had been meaning to post this info and your comment spurred my memory to do so. Thanks. Nice to have more info on the history.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Crag 121 (a.k.a Rabbit Rock... : Drumpf (5.8)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 23, 2016

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Comments: Additionally, I talked with a longtime LA Mountaineer/local climber that said Ken Ewing and company used to climb on this rock (and Battleship Rock) in the 1950s! It stands to reason they climbed this crack then as it's the most obvious and logical gear-protectable line on the wall.


Location: NM : El Rito : El Rito Sport Area : Wall of Mediocrity
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 17, 2016

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Comments: Great! I'm glad to hear the routes are seeing some action. I think we did too good of a job of camouflaging the hardware and most don't even realize there are routes here.


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Crag 121 (a.k.a Rabbit Rock...
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 8, 2016

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Comments: I stopped by the crag this evening to paint/camouflage all the plated steel hangers and ring anchors. Things are a lot more muted now. I'm a fervent advocate of always pre-painting hardware in areas of high non-climber traffic. I've used rustoleum brown spray paint for years and it seems to hold up very well.
In cases where the hardware is in-situ, I use a cardboard stencil I cut out a couple years ago that does a decent job of blocking overspray.

 more >>


Location: NM : Jemez Valley Area : Crag 121 (a.k.a Rabbit Rock...
By: Jason Halladay When: Jul 6, 2016

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Comments: This is the obvious fin of rock just northeast of the parking area for Upper East Fork so I've added that information to the "Getting There" information as most climbers will know it better that way.
According to a long-time Los Alamos Mountaineer, Ken Ewing and the LA Mountaineers climbed on this rock, and Battleship Rock, for training climbing in the 1950's. Pretty cool!

I climbed the line up the crack/flaring... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 10, 2016

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Comments: Hi Meg, if you plan to stick close to Santa Fe for the weekend, Diablo is your best bet and, in particular, the shaded walls of Runway (Lower Tier) and chasing shade in The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notch).
The Main Wall of The Shack is shaded in the morning until about 1pm and while it doesn't have many great easier routes, it's got a number of fun 5.11s.

The free BLM camping at Diablo is likely to be pretty toasty. It's pretty exposed and low elevation. Yo... more >>


Location: NM : Las Cruces Area Climbing : Organ Mountains : Sugarloaf Area : Sugarloaf : North Face (5.6 R)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jun 6, 2016

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Comments: How is this route rated 5.6??? The Organ mountain moderators will eventually get someone killed on this route with their very sandbagged ratings, since a lot of people like to free-solo this. Pitch 7-I'd love an explanation how it's a 5.6, when its more like 5.8+. I know the old route was 5.6, and whoever bolted the new portion didn't want to annotate the new change because they were disobeying BLM rules, but come on... The first six pitches were great, definitely a little easier than... more >>


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : The Zoo
By: Jason Halladay When: May 31, 2016

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Comments:
cevans wrote:
The GPS coordinates for the parking lot listed in the "Getting There" section of this page appear to be incorrect. We followed these GPS coordinates and came to what we believe is the Emerald City parking area. The parking lot for The Zoo is indeed the same lot as for Roadside Crag--that page on mountain project correctly lists the GPS coordinates of the parking lot as: 37.7334, -83.6591


Thanks for the correction. I verified the issue and changed the coordinates text accor... more >>


Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : The Grotto (a.k.a. The Notc... : Grotto Right (West Side) : Crystal Clear Arête (a.k.a... (5.12b)
By: Jason Halladay When: May 2, 2016

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Comments: A couple of excellent, recent Michael Clark photos refer to this as "Crystal Clear Arête": Photo uno and photo dos.

This name sounds much better than "Unnamed Arête" to me so I've updated the name here.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : White Rock : Below The Old New Place : Monsterpiece Theatre (5.12a)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 24, 2016

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Comments: Video of Chuck Calef sending the route on gear days before his 69th birthday:




Location: NM : Enchanted Tower
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 16, 2016

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Comments:
Jwh wrote:
A couple questions. I was wondering if Enchanted Tower is a possibility. We would be looking for 5.6 - 5.12+, and a chill place to camp for a couple days. Is the new approach possible in a rental car? How about a rental SUV? Can you camp there? How will the temps/shade be that time of year? I'm guessing hot...? Any info is much appreciated! --Josh

Hey Josh, we've spent a couple of Fourth of July weekends at the Tower and while it's not ideal temps, it's really not too shabby. ... more >>


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Gravitations (5.11d)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 14, 2016

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Comments: This is easily my favorite 11d at Shelf, if not my favorite route overall. Great movement on quality rock with hard to read sequences. Pumpy yet technical. The bolt spacing adds to the overall enjoyment by allowing flowing, uninterrupted climbing movement between clips.
If absolutely desired, some finger-sized gear would minimize the runs between bolts.


Location: CO : Canon City : Shelf Road : The Bank : Sicilian Style (5.11a/b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 13, 2016

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Comments: Like Leverage, this is a nice, long route that, because of the ledges and rests, and makes for a good warm-up for nearby harder routes.


Location: NM : Los Alamos & White Rock : The Dungeon : Main Wall : Death Drives a Stick (5.13)
By: Jason Halladay When: Mar 8, 2016

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Comments:
ange heying wrote:
can anybody tell how you should do death drives a stick should do it in two pitches or one

The standard is to climb Against Nature and simply keep going above the Against Nature anchors. Typically most just clip the right-side anchor chain of the Against Nature anchors and keep keep going. The first few clips above the anchor chain are fixed draws so it should be obvious where to go.


Location: NV : Red Rock : Mt. Wilson : Aeolian Wall : Inti Watana (5.10c) : Photo
By: Jason Halladay When: Feb 29, 2016

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Comments: Very true, Jonathan. I've stopped using the skinny dyneema draws because of their penchant for twisting so easily like that.


Location: KY : Red River Gorge : Muir Valley
By: Jason Halladay When: Feb 1, 2016

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Comments: Note, effective March 1, 2016, those parking at Muir Valley will be charged $10 per car per day. See the Fees section above for details.


Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Sedona Area : West Sedona : Dry Creek Road Area : ... : Red Planet (5.13)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jan 21, 2016

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Comments:



Location: NV : Red Rock : First Pullout : Great Red Roof Area : The Great Red Roof (5.13b)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jan 21, 2016

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Comments:



Location: AZ : Northern Arizona : *Oak Creek Canyon : Cave Springs : The Doctor's Office : Synethesia AKA Linger Fick... (5.12+)
By: Jason Halladay When: Jan 21, 2016

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Comments:



Location: NM : Santa Fe Area : Diablo Canyon : Solar Cave : Erectus (Open Project) (5.12c)
By: Jason Halladay When: Dec 12, 2015

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Comments: Reportedly, on December 11th, 2015, a large and critical undercling block right in the middle of the bouldery crux was pulled off. This block allowed the climber to do the clip from low before embarking on the v4/5 crux. Reportedly, it now looks like a double digit boulder problem and will likely not be repeated often.


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