Contributed Comments |
| |
|---|
Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area
By: Jason Haas When: Mar 7, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: MountainManny, the roadside climbing including Angle Iron Slabs are open during the closure
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : The Castle : Schmauser - Bohannon Route (5.11)
By: Jason Haas When: Mar 4, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tod, I fully support mountainproject and I add routes on here all the time, including to areas we write books for, but I never take a description from someone else's book and regurgitate it on here without any first hand knowledge of the route. I'm not doubting your prolific climbing experience, even with trad climbing. And maybe you did this (and the other) routes and our book helped "jog" your memory. If so, I'm glad the guidebook is useful to you. However, I'd like to remind you of what I tol... more >>
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Buffalo Creek : The Castle : Schmauser - Bohannon Route (5.11)
By: Jason Haas When: Mar 3, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Tod Anderson (username Tzilla Rapdrilla), why do you keep adding descriptions for routes you've never climbed?
|
Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : Meadow Rock aka Cougar Clif...
By: Jason Haas When: Feb 21, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: This area is also known as Cougar Cliff (not to be confused with Coyote Cliff down the hill from here).
|
Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Brown Wall : Gay Blade (5.11- PG13)
By: Jason Haas When: Feb 18, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: Bill Schmausser said he named this route Gay Blade
|
Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge
By: Jason Haas When: Jan 13, 2013 | view comment >> |
Comments: The information at the top of this page, including directions, has been updated. This includes information about the public vs. private access. Please take a look at it before you venture out to Thunder. Also, do not drive the gated road - this is entirely private property, not a closed FS road. The landowners are ok with climbers walking the road (despite the newly-posted signs), just not driving or mountain biking it. Lastly, metal signs will be added to the parking lot very soon.
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Deckers : Photo
By: Jason Haas When: Dec 4, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: MountainManny, it's an unknown 5.10d. It's on p160 in the new guidebook.
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : East Ironing Board : Slave to the Rhythm (5.13b)
By: Jason Haas When: Oct 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just to add about the rebolt effort - hardware was provided by the ASCA. Please support them if you don't already.
|
Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Quarry : Chockstone Chimney (5.7+)
By: Jason Haas When: Aug 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Don't mean to bust the bubble, but this has been climbed before. I for one have done it and I'm sure others have too.
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Rampart Range Road : Parachute Rock : A2 Route (A2)
By: Jason Haas When: Jul 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is not a route. At the very base, it is only three feet from True Religion and only about two feet from where you'd start placing gear. And why would you climb this seam? There's a freaking finger/off-finger crack with bomber gear in arm's reach! Plus when you layback the start of True Relgion, your shoulder is on this "aid" line. And once over the lip after 15ft, they climb the same stone to the top. This is a terribly contrived way to climb True Religion.
|
Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : Battlement Crag : In the Line of Fire (5.10)
By: Jason Haas When: Jun 24, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Like River Dance, I am confused why some sections have bolts and others do not. As is, if you intend to clip the bolts, you still need gear, yet you can do the whole thing safely without the bolts altogether (the first three bolts are next to a hand crack, the fourth next to a finger crack, and the fifth next to a bomber alligator plate (perfect nut or finger-sized cam)). While the bolt under the roof/in the big chimney is helpful for rope management for the leader, it sort of sets the follower ... more >>
|
Location: CO : South Platte : West Creek : Thunder Ridge : The Wasp Canyon : You are Here (5.10+)
By: Jason Haas When: Jun 9, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route is like my beer - stout.
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Big Rock Candy Mountain : Petered Out (5.9)
By: Jason Haas When: May 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Matt Clark and I replaced all the bolts on this route yesterday. The ASCA provided the bolts/hangers. Please support them if you don't already.
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Cathedral Spires Area
By: Jason Haas When: May 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The new comprehensive, color guidebook to the South Platte is available in all the local shops and online at Fixed Pin's website (free shipping). Happy climbing!
|
Location: CO : South Platte
By: Jason Haas When: May 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The new comprehensive, color guidebook to the South Platte (including Devil's Head) is available in all the local shops and online at Fixed Pin's website (free shipping). Happy climbing!
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Devil's Head
By: Jason Haas When: May 22, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: The new comprehensive, color guidebook to the South Platte (including Devil's Head) is available in all the local shops and online at Fixed Pin's website (free shipping). Happy climbing!
|
Location: CO : New South Platte Guidebook ...
By: Jason Haas When: May 12, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pre-orders have shipped!!!
|
Location: CO : New South Platte Guidebook ...
By: Jason Haas When: May 8, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks for the kind words, Kevin.
Books ordered off our website ship this weekend. We will deliver them to local shops probably a week later.
|
Location: CO : New South Platte Guidebook ...
By: Jason Haas When: May 2, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: mattm, pre-orders have not shipped yet, sorry.
Buff, there will be a slideshow and book signing - Bent Gate on June 13th, Neptune's June 14th. While the books will be here more than a month before then, we couldn't get an earlier date at either shop. Stay tuned for more details on books and beers!
|
Location: CO : New South Platte Guidebook ...
By: Jason Haas When: Apr 28, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Shop copies are now available for perusal at Bent Gate, Neptune's, and Wilderness Exchange.
|
Location: CO : New South Platte Guidebook ...
By: Jason Haas When: Apr 26, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rob, it was intended as a joke. I did not mean to offend anyone including yourself with it, sorry you didn't take it that way. Have you climbed there? To me, it's hard to imagine anyone slogging anything but the bare essentials up that hill. I pictured a boombox from the '80s, especially with some of the stories from the old guard - like Noel Childs and Olaf Mitchell, partying up there back when the place was "in vogue" and kind of chuckle to myself. I've climbed at Poe dozens of times over the ... more >>
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Perch : Wet Turkey aka Turkey Perch... (5.7+)
By: Jason Haas When: Mar 19, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: This route, as well as what's listed on this site as Wide Chimney are listed in Mark Rolofson's 1984 guidebook The Hard Stuff! A Climber's Guide to the Turkey Rock Area simply as Moderate Cracks. He lists both as 5.6, although I would say the chimney is no harder than 5.5 and the left offwidth (this route) is closer to 5.7-5.8-. For clarification purposes, I have always heard this route be called Turkey Perch Offwi... more >>
|
Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Dome : Groove (5.10+ R)
By: Jason Haas When: Feb 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: Mike, did you do this route as you describe it? I gather from your route description you did not but simply added it to the site based on Rossiter's description? I'm taking that on the fact that you list the gear as "no gear for the crux move from the looks of it". If you did do it, I'd love to know your 5.10d beta as I thought it was pretty much 2 number grades harder than that.
I spoke with Mark Wilford (reported first ascentionist) and Richard Rossiter (guidebook author) about this route, an... more >>
|
Location: CO : South Platte : Turkey Rocks : Turkey Tail : Wild Turkey (5.10d)
By: Jason Haas When: Feb 27, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree this route is sandbagged, even for Turkey. Even without the ice, the lip is too wide for jamming. It's a #5 Camalot at the lip, and a #6 pulling over it, forcing you to wrestle/layback the lip. Very strenuous, especially for a "5.10".
|
Location: UT : Zion National Park : Zion 2012 Spring Cliff Clos...
By: Jason Haas When: Feb 23, 2012 | view comment >> |
Comments: great, thanks for the clarification
|
RSS Feed
