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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Odessa Gorge : Notchtop & vicinity : North Face (5.7 WI3)
By: Jason Carter When: Nov 9, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climb Date: 11.7.04
Ideal conditions. The ice pitch on the first rock band seems to be the crux - steep and friable WI 3 or 4 depending on your line. Middle ice pitch is a cruiser ice slab at WI2, and the upper ice pitch is 60ft of thick consistent bomber WI3.
Snow conditions were a bit soft as it is still early season and some wallowing in thigh deep sugar snow made us earn some ground above the third ice pitch.
Gear - small to medium stoppers and cams. 1-2.5" cams came in really handy at th... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : College Drop Out aka East F... (5.7)
By: Jason Carter When: Oct 4, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this again and started from the east bench. This is recommended as opposed to the PhD Roof ramp which is very lichen plastered.
This time following the north edge of the 3rd as much as possible I wanted to locate the 's' section(s). For those who will follow that line, the 's' rating is deserved for that section that is in-between the "U's" right edge and the edge of the Flatiron. There truly is no pro from the base of the "U" until you traverse left at its top. There is a thumb sized ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Split Block : Ohmer's Odyssey (5.9)
By: Jason Carter When: Jul 26, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: An excellent climb with superb pro to hone in your crack skills. The loose flake on the right is still loose. Just a side note - the walk off to the south takes about 2 minutes, probably safer/cleaner than strangling the old tree above Perry Meson.
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Location: CO : Alpine Rock : RMNP - Rock : Ypsilon Mountain : Y Couloir (Right Branch)
By: Jason Carter When: Jul 15, 2004 | view comment >> |
Comments: July 3rd 2004 -
Good conditions in the Y. The chimney was dripping, but was stuffed with good ice. Bring at the most 4 screws as there is very little if any rock pro if you venture up the ice. Also, the pinch at the top of the ice is a funnel with a variety of debris shooting through. Although good ice, it seemed dangerous to climb as you may get nailed in the face topping it out by a large rock or hunk of ice traveling at a high rate of speed (but at least you'll have those 4 screws in)
The ... more >>
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Location: CO : CO Ice & Mixed : RMNP - Mixed/Ice : Long's Peak/Mt. Meeker Cirq... : Dreamweaver (M2-3)
By: Jason Carter When: Dec 11, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: 12/6/03: Lower part of route has good snow for kicking steps and front pointing. There is very little ice anywhere on the route. Crampons and axes are still necessary for grapling with the frozen dirt and snow covered rock. All the difficulties consist of constrictions in the gully and overcoming chockstones of various dimensions and position. All 7 constrictions, I think 4 on the lower section of the route and 3 on the upper section, protect well with stoppers, and are mostly overcome with 2-3 ... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : Deuces Wild (5.10a)
By: Jason Carter When: Feb 18, 2003 | view comment >> |
Comments: The joy of this climb is its length. I've always thought the mid point two bolt anchor was just there as a rap station anyway. Maybe because I've never been able/wanted to climb to the anchor directly as it sits lurking at you from a blank spot on the wall, anyway, it seems way left of the route and low as a mid point belay - even out of reach to clip as you climb past. It's a little run out climbing past it on the right, but I don't think dangerous.
Really nice face climbing to finish - all i... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag : People's Choice (5.10d)
By: Jason Carter When: Oct 2, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fine two pitch route indeed with 3 cruxes! The slab bulge on P1, moving through the middle of the dihedral on P2, and then another slab bulge after exiting the dihedral. Nice job!
However, I must be climbing this wrong along with everyone else (at least based on the chalk evidence) " The crux comes out after exiting the dihedral - swing right, up, clip, and finish to the bolts."
I've always exited the dihedral, moved LEFT, then up over the slabby bulge and then zipped up to the anchors. Does... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Tower One : The Yellow Spur (5.9)
By: Jason Carter When: Aug 23, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: 2 things -
- The Flake - the earliest description I could find of the yellow spur dates back to 1980 from Pat Ament's Eldo guidebook as follows "lead six will air out your knickers and climbs straight up a vertical, yellow wall past a loose flake"
IMHO - there are a lot of hollow, loose flakes in Eldo - if it seems sketchy, don't yard on it - this flake in particular has been known for at least 22 years, probably longer, everyone knows it's there - tread lightly - Eldo is not a sport park a... more >>
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Location: WY : Vedauwoo : Coke Bottle : TM Chimney (5.7+)
By: Jason Carter When: Aug 19, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: as the description says - start in the chimney as far left as comfortable and then move up and right toward the light, layback the flake, jam in your 4.5 Camalot and move left and up to the small chockstone stances, you see the crux squeeze above, go through it on the right using "transcendental meditation" Heel and Toe, then continue left because that is where the pro is, get yourself to the horizontal ledge that offers an exit to your right and the rappel anchor or continue up for more abuse! ... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Sports Wall : Coffin Crack (5.9)
By: Jason Carter When: Aug 14, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: A fine pitch of trad climbing - sews up nicely and the 'bombay' roof is a kick after putting together the moves - the route takes a lot of med to large nuts and small to mid TCUs - the roof can be loaded with small gear before you stem into it and then can be protected again when you're in deep and ready to step out to the right - super fun trad climb in Clear Creek! I guess the anchor bolts were chopped at some point?
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : First Impressions (5.9)
By: Jason Carter When: Aug 8, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: A really good line! After climbing this a few times and watching others; I am noticing that there is a tendency to go right at the top of the flake and semi-mantle over the lip - this leaves a long reach left to clip the bolt - I toyed and found that the climb can go in a plumb line with the bolts over the upper lip; however, it is a reach to the 2 finger crack for your left with thin feet, but it sets you up to clip at eye level, both moves, either straight up or jog right, ... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : College Drop Out aka East F... (5.7)
By: Jason Carter When: Aug 6, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Yes, thanks George - I have found that indeed we followed the ramp up 60m to a belay right at the base of the phdroof crack - we gave that a shot but had to back down about 4' and pull over on some edges - I did the roof on toprope and found it to be commiting, but very climable with good hands, but awkard feet - it has good pro and could go on lead with some gumption- I recomend the ramp variation of this route, but be prepared for an adventure getting off the ramp and onto the east face prope... more >>
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : North : Third Flatiron : College Drop Out aka East F... (5.7)
By: Jason Carter When: Aug 2, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Climbed this recently, and using Rossiter's book climbed the shelf ramp just off the right edge of the east face for the first pitch. The start of the ramp is up and to the north of the 3rds base. It goes up 60m then it peters out and you gain the east face by overcoming the wall via a precarious bulging crack, 5.8. At this point the route just stays along the right edge of the east face and is a cruiser. You can see the ramp in the photo above. Is that some other route? The route line above jus... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : North Table Mountain/Golden... : Brown Cloud Rocks : Interface aka Slab Left (5.8)
By: Jason Carter When: Jul 21, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: For some reason this climb seems odd - weird moves, greasy sloper holds, and a disjunct line - not my favorite; anyone else?
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Green Spur (5.9)
By: Jason Carter When: Jul 19, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Thanks Charles, sounds exciting - the offwidths really psyche me out - ie. p2 of Werks Up, p3 of Grand Giraffe and now this..ughhh
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Resume (5.9)
By: Jason Carter When: Jul 19, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Very useful comment - thanks Chris - I belayed Chris on this, Neo Quasi..., Air head and P1 of Not One of Us with one gimp hand - it's true, but it's better now.... later - sorry for the useless jabber.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Eldorado Canyon SP : Redgarden Wall : Redgarden - Lumpe to the to... : The Green Spur (5.9)
By: Jason Carter When: Jul 19, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: P1 (or the combo of P1&2) - What does the offwidth go at on P1? This is the part avoided by stepping right, going up the finger crack and then stepping back left. It doesn't seem that many people go straight up on P1 through the bulge. It seems hard, I got my arm stuck, got laughed at, then decided to follow the chalk to my right.
Also at the crux of the P1 P2 combo, has anybody ever pulled out onto the face at the roof instead of stepping right out of the crack? That looks like it could be sw... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande...
By: Jason Carter When: Jul 12, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Just want to say thanks to those who envisioned the ideas and then made those ideas a reality for us to share. These routes are well thought out, well constructed and a real blast to climb!!
RATTLESNAKES! FYI - starting seeing and hearing the rattlers, early July, there was one hanging out right below Resume and one near Dirt Me - They are there, but they don't seem to mind climbers much as long as they are left alone.....
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Air Head (5.10a/b)
By: Jason Carter When: Jul 3, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: The sharp edges are only a factor if you're clipped to the belay bolt. There is good clearance if you stand down and away from the rock. Good anchor for TR on Gear Head as well.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : High Wire Crag
By: Jason Carter When: Jun 30, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Any info on the route just to the right of People's Choice would be appreciated. How new is it? Is it named? It is a good line with great crimpers and edges up the face and a mental challenge to not go for the flake!!
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Air Head (5.10a/b)
By: Jason Carter When: Jun 30, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: The move off the deck is not hard, but the free fall potential onto the ledge below hightens your attention. The crux seems to be between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. My partner so delicately clipped the 3rd before the move somehow; maybe he dislocated his shoulder momentarily, threw his arm and draw toward the bolt while standing on his toe ends and retracted back into normalicy to continue the climb. I think it is easier to make the move and then clip while the bolt is within easy reach. Th... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Neo-Quasi Bugaloo (5.10a)
By: Jason Carter When: Jun 30, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: An excellent line with thin face moves down low, a pumpy roof to a good rest, more face climbing to difficult sidepull moves that finally get you to a fun mantle and the top. My first lead up this I couldn't figure out the side pulls near the top so I moved left into the corner and laybacked up to the 11th bolt. I did the route again on TR and still found the side pull moves quite tricky, but manageable; these are just like the side pulls that spit me off of Bonehead 5.10c @#@POU... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Highlands aka Highlande... : Resume (5.9)
By: Jason Carter When: Jun 30, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: A good, short 5 bolter with awkward moves and holds that gets you warmed for the gneiss to come.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Eiger Sanction (5.10d)
By: Jason Carter When: Jun 27, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: This line lies just to the right of Trouthead 10c/d and just to the left of Eiffel Tower 10d; it is the 5th line in from the 'cave' on the left side of the crag. A great line with delicate face climbing a thin layback and a sloping topout. 2nd and 3rd clips seemed difficult, but overall the climb seemed well protected as long as you get the 2nd bolt clipped. A great 7-bolt line that offers a variety of climbing moves. I don't recall any vegetation on the route as the description states... more >>
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Little Eiger : Bonehead (5.10c/d)
By: Jason Carter When: Jun 27, 2002 | view comment >> |
Comments: Juggy it is not. There is a huge flake hold before the 3rd bolt but above that there is nothing but sidepulls. No onsight here, after clipping the 4th I came off before in reach of the 5th. Nice rest before committing up towards the 4th, difficult, awkward clip and then it seems it's up or off. I couldn't see any good stances for either the 4th or 5th bolts. All semi-positive, side pulls that grease up quickly with tenuous feet! A difficult climb that requires balance and forearms! I'd probabl... more >>
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