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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Dark Side : Suspender Man (5.11)
By: jarthur When: Sep 9, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I do a lockoff and a right (polished) heel hook. Another way to do it is to toe in with you right foot and reach up. Both ways are hard, but one might fit your style better than the other. The intermediate is a sandbag. It's not really a hold, but more of a hold that shorter people are praying to use to get to the good crimp.
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Location: CO : Rifle : Rifle Mountain Park : Ruckman Cave : Bloody Corner (5.10c R)
By: jarthur When: Feb 23, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Another lame and useless comparison to Eldo. The two areas are so far removed in both style, rock quality, and rock type from each other that this comment is just another attempt to inflate the tradster's ego. Can we just please leave these types of descriptions out? They do not help at all.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Sports Wall : Balkan Dirt Diving (5.12a)
By: jarthur When: Jan 21, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: The 4th was there Friday and I went back to make the redpoint today and it was gone. Pretty sketchy to say the least skipping that and going to the next bolt.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Sand Gulch : Free Form Wall : Village Idiot (5.11b)
By: jarthur When: Jan 14, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: This climb is not height dependent unless your pushing 7-ft. I'm 6'3" and still found the start reachy as hell with nothing but smears for feet. No matter how tall you are I think the start is just as hard for just about anyone since there are several options for the start. None of the holds felt better than the others until you finally clip the 2nd bolt.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : Cactus Cliff : Gravitations (5.11d)
By: jarthur When: Nov 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The bolting style is typical of any route that Doug Reed and Porter Jarrard bolted in NC, New River Gorge, and the Red River Gorge. This should have been named The Example in my opinion because the bolt spacing is perfect. Cool moves and sustained from the 2nd bolt to the last.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : The Gallery : A Day in the Life (5.11b)
By: jarthur When: Nov 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: How do people below 6-ft do this route? I felt like I did 4-5 really long deadpoints in a row before getting to the top and I'm 6'3". The first big throw after the 2nd bolt is pretty awesome, but I was at full extent wondering how the vertically challenged would snag that one. I didn't see any other chalk except way out right for the first throw.
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Location: NV : Red Rock : Second Pullout : Black Corridor : Rebel Without a Pause (5.11a)
By: jarthur When: Nov 7, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: The new guide book has this at 11b, Seriously? It's 6 moves once you leave the ledge to the upper left hand jug and the first 3 are good jugs. A good route regardless of the inflation. The anchors are still looking sketchy.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : Der Zerkle : Hot if You're Not (5.11c)
By: jarthur When: Oct 4, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Stay true to the route and go direct. Don't bail out by traversing into it from the left. This route is really good if you just stay direct at the start. The hardest move is moving to the left hand pocket before grabbing the hueco at 10-ft. Only a spotter is required.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Flatirons : Central : The Hand : Cardboard Cowboy (5.11b)
By: jarthur When: Oct 3, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Talk about spicy getting to the anchors. Keep your cool and you'll have it. The movement on this one is just amazing. The spicy factor just makes it that much better. Super rad!!!
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : Pinche Guey (5.12b)
By: jarthur When: Sep 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I saw the possibility of getting a kneebar under the roof, but opted out with a series of underclings, pinches, and key foot sequences to a dynamic move over the roof instead. The tricky sequence getting to the 3rd bolt is just awesome. It helps to put your dancing shoes on up to the roof. Good eye Matt for picking out the best line at the crag.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : Stepping Stones : El Gallito (5.11)
By: jarthur When: Sep 9, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Pretty sweet route. It definitely puts some air in between you and the bolt below you especially going to the anchors. Just the way I like it.
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Location: CO : Boulder : Boulder Canyon : The Sport Park : Overhung Wall : Warf Factor (5.12a)
By: jarthur When: Jul 27, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: This is by far the best climb at Sport Park that I've been on. Please give me a heads up if you have any other recommendations. Awesome roof to a super rad crux at the lip.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : The Monkey House : Psycho Hose Beast (5.11a/b)
By: jarthur When: Jun 28, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I stayed away from this for sometime because of the lack of guidebook and partner recommendations. I finally caved in yesterday and gave it a shot. This climb was much better than I anticipated with brilliant moves throughout the entire second half of the climb. The roof crux is just awesome. It's intimidating getting out from below the overhang, but the holds are there. Although The Reward is my favorite this is just as good as the other climbs on the righthand side of The Monkey House.
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Location: WY : Sinks Canyon : White Heat Wall : Spike 'n Vein (5.11b)
By: jarthur When: Jun 10, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I wouldn't say the initial slab is "well protected". For a route that is 3 stars I would think there would be way more chalk on it. The first bolt should be stick-clipped even though I did without. Given 3 out of 3 stars in the newest guide, a POS in my opinion. The upper section had decent moves, but every hold was sharp and prickly. I love routes with diversity such as this, but the prickly holds in the upper section and obscure slab route finding was just 1 out of 3 stars in my book.
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Location: CO : Golden : Clear Creek Canyon : Anarchy Wall : Halloween (5.7)
By: jarthur When: May 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Man, I tried to use this as a warmup for the Anarchy Wall. It didn't work. I think the hike in was a better warmup. This climb is actually good once you reach the midpoint and start heading to the anchor.
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Location: CO : Caņon City : Shelf Road : The Gym : Spontaneous Combustion (5.12a)
By: jarthur When: May 12, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: 10 bolts + 2 for the anchors. This climb is rad. Most people climbing solid 5.11 would onsight this if it wasn't for the beginning. Just figure out how to get off the ground and hold on thru the pumpy climbing to the 4th bolt.
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