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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Glass Ocean and Environs : Glass Ocean (5.8)
By: Jared Hargrave When: Aug 22, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with Stan, the climbing at the first and second bolt I thought to be VERY hard for the grade... felt more like 5.10. Past the ledge it was smooth sailing, but that start made me feel a bit down... until everyone else climbing it that day agreed that it felt much harder than 5.8.
Did any ledges break off recently or am I just not seeing the right sequence?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Egg : Leggo My Eggo (5.10a)
By: Jared Hargrave When: Jul 25, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Too long to rap down from the new chains at the top with a 70m rope. Instead, use a long runner at those chains and traverse to the Variety Delight chains where a single rope will reach. (at least that's what I did today...)
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Above and Beyond Wall : The Leak (5.10)
By: Jared Hargrave When: Jul 20, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Not too sure about this, but it seems a bunch of ledges are no longer there at the bottom of this climb. We tried to get on it but couldn't get to the first bolt as there were no features whatsoever.
Looking at the pictures, it seems all of the blocks below the first roof are gone.
Please correct me if I'm wrong as this was my first time at Above and Beyond Wall... But I think this climb has gotten a lot harder with the loss of these boulders.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Mount Olympus : Sport Utility Wall : Bland Cherokee (5.10a)
By: Jared Hargrave When: Jun 17, 2009 | view comment >> |
Comments: Forget straddling the roof at the bottom anymore. My friend Adam and I did the climb today and the block for the left foot came crashing down to the cave floor.
Guess this changes that first move.
Must have been all the rain we've gotten this spring.
Lucky no one was hanging out under there when it happened. It was a pretty big chunk!
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Summit Wall : The Open Book (5.7)
By: Jared Hargrave When: Sep 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Maybe it was the cold, lightning, thunder and hail that made this route not so fun. I need to try it again on a day with better weather.
This is a solid 5.7 climb all the way to the last pitch. The off-width is the hardest section in my opinion. In fact that sharp granite is like a cheese grater on the arms and legs when you get sucked into it. Stay out where there are good holds!
You will find awesome foot jams in the "Bear Hug" section. Not too difficult at all. I found this route protected we... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Lone Peak Cirque : Question Mark Wall : Lowe Route (5.8)
By: Jared Hargrave When: Sep 22, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I agree with all of the above. The first pitch is a great crack with bomber hand jams. Really fun.
For some reason I remembered the second pitch as being easier, but the second time around it felt like a solid 5.7, especially the crack leading up to the belay for the 3rd pitch.
What can I say about the last pitch? Leading it is a sweet experience. I found it a little hard to protect and as a result, ran it out until there was a place to put pro. But the holds are so good that it wasn't too sca... more >>
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : Pentapitch Area : Sasquatch (5.9+)
By: Jared Hargrave When: Sep 14, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: Is it just me or does this seem like a soft 5.9. I climbed it today and it is my first 5.9 trad lead. Did it no problem. Maybe I'm just improving (or have thin fingers,) but I had a hell of a lot harder leads on 5.8's, Satan's Corner for example. Or maybe I just psyched myself up for my first 5.9 for so long that when it turned out to be not so bad it was a bit of a let down. Don't get me wrong, it is an AWESOME crack climb. I just was expecting to get more scared on this one.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Parley's Canyon : Iron Curtain Wall : Iron Curtain (5.10a)
By: Jared Hargrave When: Jun 2, 2008 | view comment >> |
Comments: I've lead many a 5.10a and this felt a bit harder than that. Closer to an 11 maybe? The first moves are perplexing.
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Big Cottonwood Canyon : Challenge Buttress : East Face : Chambered Nautilus (5.10a)
By: Jared Hargrave When: Jun 26, 2007 | view comment >> |
Comments: Rather than use a runner on bolt 5, I simply unclipped it after clipping bolt 6 to avoid rope drag. The quickdraw was easy to reach with my left hand after clipping into bolt 6. Also felt that the roof was easier than the roof on Coral Bells Arete. Crazy?
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Location: UT : Wasatch Range : Little Cottonwood Canyon : The Egg : Just Say No to Crack (5.7)
By: Jared Hargrave When: Nov 25, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I disagree with the above comment. This was a fun route, and I agree with it being a 5.7 more like a 5.6 on the upper part of the route where the jugs get bigger. Fun, friction-y moves on the bottom. Thanks to whoever bolted it!
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Steinfell's Dome : Theater of Shadows (5.7)
By: Jared Hargrave When: Aug 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I'd say only the first pitch is a 5.7. The rest of the route felt like a 5.4-5.6. My partner did his first lead climb ever on the first pitch, so it's a great place to take beginners. Fun rappel down!
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Bumblie Rock : Too Much Fun (5.8)
By: Jared Hargrave When: Aug 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: My favorite climb at COR so far. I thought it was a very consistent 5.8 from bottom to top, with the first move to the second bolt being the hardest move on the climb. Bring plenty of draws! I brought 16 quickdraws and ran out, having to skip 2 bolts near the top. Luckily the final moves are easy. Great view from the top!
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Location: ID : City of Rocks : Anteater Rock : Scream Cheese (5.9)
By: Jared Hargrave When: Aug 16, 2006 | view comment >> |
Comments: I led this route and felt that it was a pretty soft 5.9. My partner, who never top-roped a 5.9 before, thought it was easier than Delay of Game! However, the mid-route runout did freak me out a bit and I had to stop to make sure I didn't miss a bolt. Overall a fun climb and good for the first-time 5.9 climber.
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